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Thread: Nissan B14 2.0D

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    Default Nissan B14 2.0D

    Hey there guys. Need your precious advice. I have been looking for sunny 2000-2002 1.4 EGI petrol version. However, I have noticed that most of the cars available for sale are 2.0L diesel versions. I never had a diesel car so if i go for one, there are few questions in my mind.

    Are diesel cars economical in fuel consumption?
    What is the overall maintenance cost as compared to petrol ones?
    Are diesel cars a good buy for long-term home use if in good condition?
    What to check in a diesel car when inspecting for a possible buying?

    Any other feedback that you guys wanna give in this respect. Also, please let me know about the repute of Nissan Diesel cars. Last but not least, if any one is willing to sale or come across any sunny of above model available for sale, please do let me know on my cell number.

    Your feedback for above will be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Cheers

    @mods: I am sorry if I have posted in wrong section. Please redirect my thread to appropriate place and let me know. Thanks.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    Saqib Bhai, I think so far the pump has been moved countless times but could not be adjusted to the correct position. I believe that without having accurate parameters (the default position of pump, load screw and residual fuel screw) the problem will remain. As you have worked around CD20 engines, do you know the exact factory positions of above three elements. What I remember is that when I took delivery of this car, there was no smoke, no blow-by, avg of 17-18km/l, no missing and a very smooth ride. When I look back to trace the problems, I found that it all started with mis-alignment of pump, then re-adjustment of load screw and residual fuel screw. If these three elements are put back to their original position, all will be well. Now I know the problem but unfortunately don't know how to cure it nor do i find any one who can actually put these three things to the accurate positions. Helpless I am, I must say.
    A friend has bought a dial gauge and i now working on the adaptor, some to Islamabad and we willa djust it


    Without dial gauge, you cannot adjust pump like accurately. Even belt tension can change its behaviour. So adjusting it back on same mark will not solve your problem.

    Go one by one. Get timing adjusted in the middle, roughly or at the mark where it used to be. Then adjust load screw considering the sound and symptoms of the engine and then residual screw adjustment. This is the best you can do. Odds of getting desired results is 1 in 1000
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    ^^ Amen. someone concurs with me.

    A dial gauge is used more than anyone ever expects - nearly everytime the belt is changed or even on general inspection where the belt has stretched.

    any good machinist will make an adapter - its an 8mm fine thread in any sort of VE pump - a hollow cylinder to hold the gauge and 8mm fine thread to tighten into the pump and a rod to press the plunger of the gauge - But the fitment of the rod/cylinder should not be sloppy that it can move sideways too.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    ^^ Amen. someone concurs with me.

    A dial gauge is used more than anyone ever expects - nearly everytime the belt is changed or even on general inspection where the belt has stretched.

    any good machinist will make an adapter - its an 8mm fine thread in any sort of VE pump - a hollow cylinder to hold the gauge and 8mm fine thread to tighten into the pump and a rod to press the plunger of the gauge - But the fitment of the rod/cylinder should not be sloppy that it can move sideways too.

    Many thanks for the much needed guidance about the adaptor. It is alien for all the machinists here and they are fearfull about it
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    <table style="width:194px;"><tr><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/shah.one/ForderbeginnMeUhradapter?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_KyChzdwSASc/TWYVGRD3arE/AAAAAAAABAs/oUXVNSf3dDA/s160-c/ForderbeginnMeUhradapter.jpg" width="160" height="160" style="margin:1px 0 0 4px;"></a></td></tr></table>

    Hope this helps further ...
    -

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    and as Xulfiqar has stated before in this very thread, after the plunger stroke is with-in tolerances (@TDC), the nozzle breaking pressures must also be set v.accurately according to specs! These together insure correct injection timing required for the motor.
    After this, it would inshaAllah feel so positively different...
    -

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    I am glad that you people are always there for help. I will try to get the dial gauge and set the screws as advised. Will let you know the results if positive.

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    By the way zulfiqar bhai, what is your current location?? it is becoming mystery now.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by spectra View Post
    Many thanks for the much needed guidance about the adaptor. It is alien for all the machinists here and they are fearfull about it
    then those lot are not machinists - find someone who does industrial work or fabrication and has an imagination not buggered up with

    Charass
    Meinpoori
    Maava
    liquor
    women
    anything stupifying

    They will make it for sure
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Experts pls. I got to know two diesel pump work shops one at sohrab goth and other at garden who are known to have good expertise in fixing Nissan atomizers and pumps (and use dial gauge) but were closed on this sunday so couldn't make it. I however, have changed the diesel filter (after 6000km running). The smoke has substantially decreased after changing diesel filter. The one replaced was checked and found to have lot of garbage in it. The filter I changed was "diamond" brand and the one now put in has written "Nissan" with part number as its brand name. Does diesel filter has any relation with smoke??? For update its giving an avg of 12-13km/l. Thanks

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    The gauge is not used on the bench - it is used when the pump is on the engine itself. I know both shops you are mentioning and they do not have such a dial gauge as they do not install the pump on the engine - I have seen their work it is substantially better than others - but lacks that final finesse like hydraulic advance, boost compensation etc - For the dial gauge - I can get you a complete gauge from the US or I can get you one made from Pakistan too - I know a machinist in Karachi who listens to what I want to have done. But you will have to teach your mechanic how to use it.

    As for the diesel fuel filter - take your old filter to the filter market in Plaza - and buy a fleetguard, donaldson, MANN or similar filter. The quantity of non-genuine Nissan Blue filters in Pakistan is quite alarming. I will have doubts in buying one of those. 12 - 13 km/lit is pretty expensive for a 2.0 diesel - thats 48km/gallon or about 30 mpg - very very bad.. Are you testing with filling the tank from empty or just topping up.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Hi Zufiqar bhai.. i got a dial gauge and an adaptor made.. now i can time by book

    Looking at the nissan manual.. it says put no1 piston on TDC compression while alligning the pulley mark.. Do i need to pull the cam cover to see if its in compression? or mark allignment means its no1 on TDC compression! Please guide
    75% of earth is covered by water... the rest by Jeep
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    The gauge is not used on the bench - it is used when the pump is on the engine itself. I know both shops you are mentioning and they do not have such a dial gauge as they do not install the pump on the engine - I have seen their work it is substantially better than others - but lacks that final finesse like hydraulic advance, boost compensation etc - For the dial gauge - I can get you a complete gauge from the US or I can get you one made from Pakistan too - I know a machinist in Karachi who listens to what I want to have done. But you will have to teach your mechanic how to use it.

    As for the diesel fuel filter - take your old filter to the filter market in Plaza - and buy a fleetguard, donaldson, MANN or similar filter. The quantity of non-genuine Nissan Blue filters in Pakistan is quite alarming. I will have doubts in buying one of those. 12 - 13 km/lit is pretty expensive for a 2.0 diesel - thats 48km/gallon or about 30 mpg - very very bad.. Are you testing with filling the tank from empty or just topping up.
    Please tell me the machinist here at Pakistan and I will go to him and get one. Also, please apprise me of the cost if you arrange it from US. For filter, I will definitely go to plaza and get one of those you mentioned. For mileage, zulfiqar bhai, I understand that without proper timing, it can't be achieved. I check the mileage with full tank refill to full tank refill. It gives about 600 to 650km in one full tank. In worst case, I have taken 550km in full tank. For my own knowledge, what should be the ideal mileage of CD20 engine and should I also get the valve clearances checked. Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by akifjanjua View Post
    Hi Zufiqar bhai.. i got a dial gauge and an adaptor made.. now i can time by book

    Looking at the nissan manual.. it says put no1 piston on TDC compression while alligning the pulley mark.. Do i need to pull the cam cover to see if its in compression? or mark allignment means its no1 on TDC compression! Please guide
    yes nark alignment is piston 1 TDC (compression) If you installed the crank cam timing belt correctly you only need to check the crank timing mark - however its easier to use the pump belt as it moves at a speed of 1:1 from the cam to pump gear, (be double sure that the pump belt is correctly installed - 23rd tooth if I recall). Once you are sure, install the adapter and gauge with about 2mm preload - turn engine backwards till gauge stops moving - align gauge to zero - now move engine forward to TDC and check gauge reading.

    All this should be done by first unloading the thermal advance spring - or your timing would always be incorrect.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dani80pk View Post
    Please tell me the machinist here at Pakistan and I will go to him and get one. Also, please apprise me of the cost if you arrange it from US. For filter, I will definitely go to plaza and get one of those you mentioned. For mileage, zulfiqar bhai, I understand that without proper timing, it can't be achieved. I check the mileage with full tank refill to full tank refill. It gives about 600 to 650km in one full tank. In worst case, I have taken 550km in full tank. For my own knowledge, what should be the ideal mileage of CD20 engine and should I also get the valve clearances checked. Thanks
    The fuel mileage of my own rebuilt CD17s is about 18-22 km/lit (40 litre fillup between 750-800 kms) - my 1.6 Golf used to return 22-24 km/lit (swallowing 40-41 litres of fuel between 950-1000 kms) - but when I bought it - it was close to 10 km/lit (400 kms per tank) a CD20 should give you about 16-19 depending on how hard you lug it and how eager it is itself.

    I'll get you a gauge appraisal - but if you can go buy a dial gauge in Pakistan and have the adapter made - it'll be easier - the adapter can be made by a shop in the hydraulics line next to the Radio Pakistan building - there is a tiny shop that only deals in thread cutting and other sorts. Show him some pictures and make him understand, he'll make it. If not then the only way is for me to send you one from outside pakistan
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    The fuel mileage of my own rebuilt CD17s is about 18-22 km/lit (40 litre fillup between 750-800 kms) - my 1.6 Golf used to return 22-24 km/lit (swallowing 40-41 litres of fuel between 950-1000 kms) - but when I bought it - it was close to 10 km/lit (400 kms per tank) a CD20 should give you about 16-19 depending on how hard you lug it and how eager it is itself.

    I'll get you a gauge appraisal - but if you can go buy a dial gauge in Pakistan and have the adapter made - it'll be easier - the adapter can be made by a shop in the hydraulics line next to the Radio Pakistan building - there is a tiny shop that only deals in thread cutting and other sorts. Show him some pictures and make him understand, he'll make it. If not then the only way is for me to send you one from outside pakistan
    Zulfiqar Bhai, all of a sudden the smoke has disappeared. It is giving smoke only when revved hard like i took it to 60-70km/h in 2nd gear. It has also become so so much responsive like I only have to touch the gas pedal and there it goes. Dont know how it happened. Please tell me the cost of dial gauge and adapter if you send it to me from there. Thanks

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    This weekend's DIY.. timing CD20 by book.. total time spent 2 hours

    Hooked up the dial gauge.. the book mentioned 2 marks on pulley.. alligned it to pump timing mark some degrees ATDC.. plunger lift set to 0.83mm. Earlier it was 1.03mm

    What a sweet motor it has turned out to be.. nice and quite.. test drive.. all good.. less smoke on high RPMs... will check cold start tomorrow

    Will update on the MPG improvement.. currently i was getting 16KM/L

    Thank you Zulfiqar bhai for introducing me to this timing by book method

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    yes nark alignment is piston 1 TDC (compression) If you installed the crank cam timing belt correctly you only need to check the crank timing mark - however its easier to use the pump belt as it moves at a speed of 1:1 from the cam to pump gear, (be double sure that the pump belt is correctly installed - 23rd tooth if I recall). Once you are sure, install the adapter and gauge with about 2mm preload - turn engine backwards till gauge stops moving - align gauge to zero - now move engine forward to TDC and check gauge reading.

    All this should be done by first unloading the thermal advance spring - or your timing would always be incorrect.
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    Quote Originally Posted by akifjanjua View Post
    This weekend's DIY.. timing CD20 by book.. total time spent 2 hours

    Hooked up the dial gauge.. the book mentioned 2 marks on pulley.. alligned it to pump timing mark some degrees ATDC.. plunger lift set to 0.83mm. Earlier it was 1.03mm

    What a sweet motor it has turned out to be.. nice and quite.. test drive.. all good.. less smoke on high RPMs... will check cold start tomorrow

    Will update on the MPG improvement.. currently i was getting 16KM/L

    Thank you Zulfiqar bhai for introducing me to this timing by book method
    you are most welcome,
    you can judge for yourself now - how accurately the dialguage sets it, and exactly how accurate our ustaad mechanics would be by moving the pump on a started engine. FINALLY someone got the diesel virus going in favor
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by akifjanjua View Post
    This weekend's DIY.. timing CD20 by book.. total time spent 2 hours

    Hooked up the dial gauge.. the book mentioned 2 marks on pulley.. alligned it to pump timing mark some degrees ATDC.. plunger lift set to 0.83mm. Earlier it was 1.03mm

    What a sweet motor it has turned out to be.. nice and quite.. test drive.. all good.. less smoke on high RPMs... will check cold start tomorrow

    Will update on the MPG improvement.. currently i was getting 16KM/L

    Thank you Zulfiqar bhai for introducing me to this timing by book method
    Whats the update for MPG improvement.

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    nyc

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    It was quite fun today, working on Danish's engine for alignment of the cam/pump belt.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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