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Thread: Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 (B13)

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    Default Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 (B13)

    AoA,

    Thread update: Swapped the engine with EFI one after wasting double the money on overhaul. Details of swap from page-2

    Guys I recently got a Nissan Sunny 1991. Currently it has a carby 1300cc engine, which frequently gives bluish white smoke, particularly, during start ups. Its very generous in eating up the engine oil.

    Many have suggested to go for 16 valve twin cam EFI engine. One guy told me that he visited Ahata Mithu a few months ago and got 12 valve engine swapped for 17k, while 16 valve engine was available for around 24K.

    Would appreciate if someone can guide me about best engine (I prefer EFI), the prices, the best place to get engine and best workshops to get the Nissan swaps done.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by afnan.bashir View Post
    Why do you need alligators at end of multimeter? you would have to do that your self. Buy a DVM lead of Rupees 50 and solder two alligator clips. In order to check connectors of ECU the most handy thing is T shaped pin so that you do not have to pry out the wires.
    Already got the pins that are used for curtains (darwazay ka parday).

    Yup, went for DVM lead. Actually I had seen some on internet with agilator clips at the back. But when I went to check, there was no such thing available. Anyways, will bring those leads today.

    Yaar what's the desi name for agilator clips????? "Choontian" I guess. I don't want to ping local auto electrician just for finding desi names

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    Quote Originally Posted by aliam_786 View Post
    @IsbCap
    dont buy elm 327 useless on nissan....
    i can help you in getting codes.. pming u my number...
    Thanks bro. I know the method of flashing lights and how to decode them. (Strong theory, zero hands on.....)

    Btw, the way it's moving these days, I'm expecting a 2 hours cycle of flashing lights before it returns to first error code again, duh....

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    Already got the pins that are used for curtains (darwazay ka parday).

    Yup, went for DVM lead. Actually I had seen some on internet with agilator clips at the back. But when I went to check, there was no such thing available. Anyways, will bring those leads today.

    Yaar what's the desi name for agilator clips????? "Choontian" I guess. I don't want to ping local auto electrician just for finding desi names
    yes choontian
    93 Accord CB7 (Sold) / 2005 CL7

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    That is why I always say - do all the wiring of the system with engine outside of the engine bay.

    in other words - the powerpack (engine+gear+stuff) sitting on a pallet or tyre and then sort out the wiring. Easiest as you can put it on a bench and sit down to work on it.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    That is why I always say - do all the wiring of the system with engine outside of the engine bay.

    in other words - the powerpack (engine+gear+stuff) sitting on a pallet or tyre and then sort out the wiring. Easiest as you can put it on a bench and sit down to work on it.
    A summary of your years of experience. The one with a plier in his hand for the first time cutting of wire wont even understand what all that means...!!!

    Definitely my next swap (Life and time permitting) will follow the SOPs. All wiring worked out before swap, diagnosis tools in hand, all sensors checked and there you go... good to go for years to come...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    That is why I always say - do all the wiring of the system with engine outside of the engine bay.

    in other words - the powerpack (engine+gear+stuff) sitting on a pallet or tyre and then sort out the wiring. Easiest as you can put it on a bench and sit down to work on it.
    Yes I agree with Professor Zulfiqar. he suggested me and i pulled out the engine harness and was toooo happy to verify neeto tape joints and each sensor wire to ECU. Checked each with DVM
    93 Accord CB7 (Sold) / 2005 CL7

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    Guys I think vacuum leak caused by improper CNG installation by that stupid person (I have all the bad words in dictionary reserved for him, not on these forums) was the reason for all the trouble. Using a silicon (RTV sealant) fixed the problem.

    Then I got jane/gasket installed in silensor, and when I was on Murree road, the RPM started shooting again. Now if i take foot off the pedal, it feels as if someone is pushing the car backwards. What could be the trouble?

    Shorting the wires to retrieve the error codes is not working. I'm following the instructions given in the manual, but error codes don't pop up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    Guys I think vacuum leak caused by improper CNG installation by that stupid person (I have all the bad words in dictionary reserved for him, not on these forums) was the reason for all the trouble. Using a silicon (RTV sealant) fixed the problem.

    Then I got jane/gasket installed in silensor, and when I was on Murree road, the RPM started shooting again. Now if i take foot off the pedal, it feels as if someone is pushing the car backwards. What could be the trouble?

    Shorting the wires to retrieve the error codes is not working. I'm following the instructions given in the manual, but error codes don't pop up.
    It is idle adjustment problem. Your idle is set high and when ecu sees that idle is high it tries to lower but fails to bring to normal range that is why it flickers.

    CNG should not cause vac leak as ventury is before MAP Sensor.

    One method i use to test my vac leak.

    Start the car
    spray carb cleaner near intake and related areas.
    If idle raises or changes then you got the leak.

    On other hand remove your IAC grip and adjust the base idle for your car if possible. If removing IACV grip does not changes the rpm then service it.
    93 Accord CB7 (Sold) / 2005 CL7

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    Quote Originally Posted by afnan.bashir View Post
    It is idle adjustment problem. Your idle is set high and when ecu sees that idle is high it tries to lower but fails to bring to normal range that is why it flickers.

    CNG should not cause vac leak as ventury is before MAP Sensor.

    One method i use to test my vac leak.

    Start the car
    spray carb cleaner near intake and related areas.
    If idle raises or changes then you got the leak.

    On other hand remove your IAC grip and adjust the base idle for your car if possible. If removing IACV grip does not changes the rpm then service it.
    The azzhole CNG installer had punctured into the intake pipe after MAF. That area was the reason of all my suffering over the past two months. The trouble is that it is an advanced engine with no distributor (yes, it is a trouble as of now, coz the ECU retards the timing when it sees something fishy, so have to suffer on both petrol and CNG, contrary to the distributor ones, which do work fine at least on CNG).

    Sealing the area with silicon has improved the things in the way that timing has become better and misfiring stopped. Now the RPM was high. I have adjusted the screw, and RPM has lowered a bit. Didn't disconnect the IAC grip while doing this. Does it make any difference???

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    The azzhole CNG installer had punctured into the intake pipe after MAF. That area was the reason of all my suffering over the past two months. The trouble is that it is an advanced engine with no distributor (yes, it is a trouble as of now, coz the ECU retards the timing when it sees something fishy, so have to suffer on both petrol and CNG, contrary to the distributor ones, which do work fine at least on CNG).

    Sealing the area with silicon has improved the things in the way that timing has become better and misfiring stopped. Now the RPM was high. I have adjusted the screw, and RPM has lowered a bit. Didn't disconnect the IAC grip while doing this. Does it make any difference???
    Proper procedure is

    1. Disconnect IACV
    2. Adjust RPM to 500 +- 50 rpm
    3. If you cant lower then there is a vac leak
    4. After adjusting turn off car. Connect the IACV
    5. RESET ECU by pulling battery terminal.
    6. Turn on car with no load, no electrical load. Let it idle for couple of minute and you are good to go

    I have doubt that in your swap thy may not have connected VBU so your ecu wont remember settings and may get reset evertime
    93 Accord CB7 (Sold) / 2005 CL7

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    Quote Originally Posted by afnan.bashir View Post
    Proper procedure is

    1. Disconnect IACV
    2. Adjust RPM to 500 +- 50 rpm
    3. If you cant lower then there is a vac leak
    4. After adjusting turn off car. Connect the IACV
    5. RESET ECU by pulling battery terminal.
    6. Turn on car with no load, no electrical load. Let it idle for couple of minute and you are good to go

    I have doubt that in your swap thy may not have connected VBU so your ecu wont remember settings and may get reset evertime

    2. Adjust RPM to 500 +- 50 rpm No RPM meter installed


    I have doubt that in your swap thy may not have connected VBU so your ecu wont remember settings and may get reset everytime

    Yes, you are absolutely right sir

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    2. Adjust RPM to 500 +- 50 rpm No RPM meter installed


    I have doubt that in your swap thy may not have connected VBU so your ecu wont remember settings and may get reset everytime

    Yes, you are absolutely right sir
    I can understand through what circumstances you are in Does your car has RPM meter?
    93 Accord CB7 (Sold) / 2005 CL7

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    Quote Originally Posted by afnan.bashir View Post
    I can understand through what circumstances you are in Does your car has RPM meter?
    No RPM meter in it.

    I've procured 4 relays and having seen the wiring diagram 1000 times now. Already going at turtle's pace, so targeting this weekend to make the wiring proper after learning many lessons the hard way.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    No RPM meter in it.

    I've procured 4 relays and having seen the wiring diagram 1000 times now. Already going at turtle's pace, so targeting this weekend to make the wiring proper after learning many lessons the hard way.....
    How come that car does not have RPM meter. Strange. You can get after market one . give it pulse from NEP pin from your ecu. Share if you got three row ecu diagram
    93 Accord CB7 (Sold) / 2005 CL7

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    Quote Originally Posted by afnan.bashir View Post
    give it pulse from NEP pin from your ecu. Share if you got three row ecu diagram
    There you go (Don't ask me to arrange some translator, @star2 know russian quite well )

    Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 B13 -1394526

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    @spectra, @star2, @afnan.bashir

    Previously the ECU was directly connected. Now after reasonably blocking the vacuum leaks and connecting Pin 69 so that ECU doesn't reset each time, the idle RPM seems too high.

    Now if I drive it aggressively for some time, the idle RPM gradually starts becoming lower. If I switch it off for 6-7 hours and start again, the RPM is high again.

    So does it mean ECU still resets each time? Or needs idle learning???

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    The check engine light is permanently ON. Connecting the pin 111 with +12V doesn't result in any flashing of cel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    @spectra, @star2, @afnan.bashir

    Previously the ECU was directly connected. Now after reasonably blocking the vacuum leaks and connecting Pin 69 so that ECU doesn't reset each time, the idle RPM seems too high.

    Now if I drive it aggressively for some time, the idle RPM gradually starts becoming lower. If I switch it off for 6-7 hours and start again, the RPM is high again.

    So does it mean ECU still resets each time? Or needs idle learning???
    Needs idle learning but correct all wiring errors befroe doing that.
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    use proper ventri for correct cng mixture..
    Muhammad Ali Murad

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    The check engine light is permanently ON. Connecting the pin 111 with +12V doesn't result in any flashing of cel.
    Hakeem sahab you need to Ground the Service check connector to retrieve the codes.
    93 Accord CB7 (Sold) / 2005 CL7

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