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Thread: Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 (B13)

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    Default Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 (B13)

    AoA,

    Thread update: Swapped the engine with EFI one after wasting double the money on overhaul. Details of swap from page-2

    Guys I recently got a Nissan Sunny 1991. Currently it has a carby 1300cc engine, which frequently gives bluish white smoke, particularly, during start ups. Its very generous in eating up the engine oil.

    Many have suggested to go for 16 valve twin cam EFI engine. One guy told me that he visited Ahata Mithu a few months ago and got 12 valve engine swapped for 17k, while 16 valve engine was available for around 24K.

    Would appreciate if someone can guide me about best engine (I prefer EFI), the prices, the best place to get engine and best workshops to get the Nissan swaps done.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by spectra View Post
    Know this be experience. No data available. You have to wire the 5 wire AFM properly

    Sent from my STH100-1 using PW Forums mobile app
    Yes, but from your experience, which ECU pin I should connect the 5th MAF wire?

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    Here I cannot help you. Maybe @star2 has the answer.

    Sent from my STH100-1 using PW Forums mobile app
    Keep a cool head and wear seatbelts!

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    Quote Originally Posted by spectra View Post
    Here I cannot help you. Maybe @star2 has the answer.

    Sent from my STH100-1 using PW Forums mobile app
    Lol, he chose 4 row ECU to avoid these things. I have decoded the pinout by matching it with Almera FSM. Doing R&D for this specific pin these days. Everything else sorted out.

    Love to see the non rotating fans for 99% of time

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    Quote Originally Posted by dani_kk View Post
    Got your point bro, apologies.

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    Go

    Good To Hear You Got My Point...Didn't Mean To Offend Or Degrade Anyone Here...!
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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    I was having the problem with IACV. When connected and engine started in the morning, it shoots up the RPM to 1500 and doesn't come back till I turn off the engine. Also the STFT values were cycling from 0% to -25% all the idling time, with no LTFT set.

    Today disconnected the IACV and observed again. Values are:

    STFT: -19% to -23%
    LTFT: -10%
    Idle RPM: Fluctuates between 775-850

    From some study, it seems a rich running system. O2 seems fine, so the problem is narrowed down to:

    1. Replace the air filter
    2. Inspect the injectors for leaking or wide open

    Btw, its rich, but still done 390Km in around 26-27L of petrol (city-highway mix)
    Either IACV Is Not Working As It Shld ..Due To Incorrect Wiriring Or Other Codes...

    LTFT Are Out Also....Shld Be Near Around 0-5(+/-) But -10 Means Its On Rich Side...Need To Inspect The Cause ... It Can Be Your MAF..How Are Your Plugs Coming Out...Too Much Blackish? Or Just A Bit?
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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    Either IACV Is Not Working As It Shld ..Due To Incorrect Wiriring Or Other Codes...

    LTFT Are Out Also....Shld Be Near Around 0-5(+/-) But -10 Means Its On Rich Side...Need To Inspect The Cause ... It Can Be Your MAF..How Are Your Plugs Coming Out...Too Much Blackish? Or Just A Bit?
    Last time I inspected them (around 3-4 months ago), those were brown. Now the exhaust is turned black afterwards, so definitely running a bit rich.

    I'm suspecting a bad air filter (which is three years, 21000Km old, btw . While getting it cleaned last time from engine oils +filters shop, I asked the guy whether i should change it or not. Looking at the condition, he suggested it to be OK)

    No IACV related codes are there (and even disconnecting it didn't bring any codes). Wiring is fine and it had been working good previously.

    I'll be looking to clean the MAF and replace the air filter. And of course, will check the injectors by using multi meter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    Last time I inspected them (around 3-4 months ago), those were brown. Now the exhaust is turned black afterwards, so definitely running a bit rich.

    I'm suspecting a bad air filter (which is three years, 21000Km old, btw . While getting it cleaned last time from engine oils +filters shop, I asked the guy whether i should change it or not. Looking at the condition, he suggested it to be OK)

    No IACV related codes are there (and even disconnecting it didn't bring any codes). Wiring is fine and it had been working good previously.

    I'll be looking to clean the MAF and replace the air filter. And of course, will check the injectors by using multi meter.
    Look for Any Air Leaks Also...They Make STFT LTFt Go Crazy W.o Even Knowing..ANy Leak In Manifold Or Hose Will Result In Such Also
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    Seems the bloody MAF was wrongly reporting the air values (around 3.5 g/sec). I disconnected and reconnected again while engine running. And now it started reporting 2.3 g /sec. RPM became stable. Also cleaned TPS terminals.

    Went to Mangla dam and got avg. of 16.3 kpl (with 5 persons on board)

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    Unhappy

    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    Seems the bloody MAF was wrongly reporting the air values (around 3.5 g/sec). I disconnected and reconnected again while engine running. And now it started reporting 2.3 g /sec. RPM became stable. Also cleaned TPS terminals.

    Went to Mangla dam and got avg. of 16.3 kpl (with 5 persons on board)
    mine QG15 is giving only 10~11kpl inside city......Idle RPMs are 1150~1200...........

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    Quote Originally Posted by saanni_79 View Post
    mine QG15 is giving only 10~11kpl inside city......Idle RPMs are 1150~1200...........

    idle rpm 1200? is water temp sender working? check iacv also.
    Your ego is writing cheques, your body can't cash.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saanni_79 View Post
    mine QG15 is giving only 10~11kpl inside city......Idle RPMs are 1150~1200...........
    I went to PWD yesterday, there were traffic blocks, so average was around 12.5. On the way back, not many jams, so avg. was 15.5

    On cold start in the morning and 4Km run, i get 8.5-9kpl.

    So overall, 10-11kpl in the city driving is fine.

    Regarding RPMs, those need fixing (Should be around 1000 on cold, 700 when warmed up). Giving problems now or right from engine swap?

    Check IACV and MAF as a first step. Then air filter, throttle body, TPS

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    I went to PWD yesterday, there were traffic blocks, so average was around 12.5. On the way back, not many jams, so avg. was 15.5

    On cold start in the morning and 4Km run, i get 8.5-9kpl.

    So overall, 10-11kpl in the city driving is fine.

    Regarding RPMs, those need fixing (Should be around 1000 on cold, 700 when warmed up). Giving problems now or right from engine swap?

    Check IACV and MAF as a first step. Then air filter, throttle body, TPS
    After some adjustments , please see below screenshots ....Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 B13 -1726150Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 B13 -1726151Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 B13 -1726152Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 B13 -1726153Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 B13 -1726154Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 B13 -1726155Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 B13 -1726156Engine Swap in Nissan Sunny 1991 B13 -1726157

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    Quote Originally Posted by saanni_79 View Post
    After some adjustments , please see below screenshots .
    Idle RPM is little high. Not to worry too much, i think. Try doing the Idle Volume Learn function in NDS2 (Mine always says failed after few minutes of processing...)

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    Never try to clean the terminals with WD40. I did it and O2 and its wiring got short . And another bad thing, ignition switch terminal melted due to this short circuit, but the ignition fuses remained intact happily .

    Alhamdulillah, the ECU survived it. Now O2 is disconnected. And i know it is running very rich at the moment.

    Before installing new O2, I'll also need to inspect the O2 wires leading to ECU for any short circuit as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IsbCap View Post
    Idle RPM is little high. Not to worry too much, i think. Try doing the Idle Volume Learn function in NDS2 (Mine always says failed after few minutes of processing...)
    Mine too

    Sent from my Z12 using Tapatalk

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    What can be the cause of car dropping rpm on braking in B14 GA15DE? @SER_GTR
    Your ego is writing cheques, your body can't cash.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmed2396 View Post
    What can be the cause of car dropping rpm on braking in B14 GA15DE? @SER_GTR
    a

    Have U inspected ISCV for being stuck? or not working.... also a leak in vacuum can make rpm unstable...

    also inspect throttle blades and make sure they move freely inside and not having gunk inside...
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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    a

    Have U inspected ISCV for being stuck? or not working.... also a leak in vacuum can make rpm unstable...

    also inspect throttle blades and make sure they move freely inside and not having gunk inside...

    throttle was serviced completely and iacv was also cleaned. It also seems car lost some of brake boost too.
    Your ego is writing cheques, your body can't cash.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahmed2396 View Post
    throttle was serviced completely and iacv was also cleaned. It also seems car lost some of brake boost too.
    1

    Can Be A Leaking Brake Booster Diaphragm ...It Only Happen when you Press Brake Pedal??? Rest Its All Good? Then Check For Brake Booster
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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    1

    Can Be A Leaking Brake Booster Diaphragm ...It Only Happen when you Press Brake Pedal??? Rest Its All Good? Then Check For Brake Booster

    brake is not good as it was before. can you give me wear limit of front rotors of B14.
    Your ego is writing cheques, your body can't cash.

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