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  1. #1
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    Default Daewoo Racer/Cielo Fan Club

    Dear All,

    I am an owner of Daewoo Racer since 1995. It has proven to be a very comfortable and economical car throughout this period. It used to give an average of 13Km/L within city and ~15Km/L on long drives. Here are some pictures:


    Daewoo fan club -479355


    Daewoo fan club -479356


    Daewoo fan club -1050638

    Check the links for my rides
    1. Before 2008 (Racer)
    Daewoo Racer
    2. After Jan 2008 (Cielo)
    Daewoo Cielo


    I would recommend buying this car who want a better car at low budgets!

    Any member having used a Daewoo car must share their experience....(y)


    IMPORTANT: SCANNER Facility is Available at Friends Autos, I-9, Islamabad. [Khalid: 0322-5111110, 0321-9562840]


    Quick Links:

    Parts Dealers/workshops link [Page-3 post #:54]:


    Alloy Rim fitment [Page-15 post #:290]:


    The DOHC engine[Page-30 post #:585]:


    Service Manual/Electrical Diagrams link[Page-30 post #:594]:


    Cielo Conversion [Page-57 post #:1130]:


    How to get Black Bumpers [Page-60 post #:1315]:


    Reading ECM Error Codes [Page-191 post #:3804]:



    Air Conditioner maintenance shops [Page-195 post #:3897]:



    High RPM/Stalling Problem on AC, OK Otherwise[Page-203 post #:4048]:


  2. #6181
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    @testdriver bro my woo needs both the front and rear shocks. I need to know from where to get genuine shocks both front and rear. And also how to identify the genuineness of these shocks specially the front ones. Thanks in advance.

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    @blackhawwk

    Thanks. The contacts are updated regularly. Secondly you can find a lot of poshish wala at Pindi saddar, I don't have any specific recommendation, but atleast he should know the work. As for engine sound proofing, you cannot do much as nothing specific is available. Genuine shocks and springs can only be found with kabarias though purchasing used shocks is not recommended due to their uncertain age and reliability. You have to use oil based shocks, 'Mando' is one common brand used in Daewoo cars.

    @tjkhattak

    The shocks part also goes to you!
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    @testdriver

    Thanks a lot. I will check it out once Im back in pindi. I want to plan a complete (kind of) restoration process of my car. Which includes all the engine work, electronics and sensors, suspension .. and body and paint work. Still reading out these forms and preparing myself as best as I can so that I wont be fooled by the mechanics and can guide them if I can. I want my woo to feel as luxurious and amazing as it did back in its glorious days a couple of years ago .
    Will ask you guys about my concerns and queries from time to time.
    Thanks a lot and great work guys

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    @ Ahmad usmani 1 brother frm where u get the doors and their price?

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    Quote Originally Posted by zeeshan213 View Post
    @ Ahmad usmani 1 brother frm where u get the doors and their price?
    I purchased it from Mr. Maqsood (Mithoo Khan Ahata, Rawalpindi) @35k. His contact nos are 03225820236, 03005078564. I did fitting and wiring work from Mr. Khalid (I/9) @5k, his nos are available in this forum.

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    Default Temperature Gauge Problem

    Hi All,

    Need some help, esp @testdriver

    A few years back, a mechanic said, ?Sir apka pakkha bahut tez chal raha hai, ahista kardia? .. I didn?t know about the consequences, but the head gasket got burnt. After repair and perfect running, year or two later the car got heat up again (this time the fan on direct and full speed). <b>The really annoying part is that in both the cases the temperature meter did not go above HALF</b>.

    Currently, the temp gauge gets to the upper part of white (as in pic) and stays there after 5 mins of starting. My fan is always on direct now, and running on full (for almost a year now). There are no leakages in my radiator etc. I want to get the fan settings back to original form as Im thinking about going for petrol only settings. Also, I didn?t have AC this season.

    Whenever I went to the mechanic/electrician for this problem. He would put his hand under the air filter area, and ask me if the gauge went up, it did, and so his response would be that the gauge is working fine.

    What should be the plan of action to get this problem fixed, as I would be needing the heater in this winter as well.

    Apart from that, is there any additive for radiator as my relatives were using water in it (they had the car for 8months), and it most probably have gotten rust. Any strong additive that I can use for a while to remove rust, and then after some time flush it and start using coolant?

    Daewoo fan club -1252178

    (Note: This isnt my meter pic, got it from the internet)

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackhawwk View Post
    Hi All,

    Need some help, esp @testdriver

    A few years back, a mechanic said, ?Sir apka pakkha bahut tez chal raha hai, ahista kardia? .. I didn?t know about the consequences, but the head gasket got burnt. After repair and perfect running, year or two later the car got heat up again (this time the fan on direct and full speed). The really annoying part is that in both the cases the temperature meter did not go above HALF.

    Currently, the temp gauge gets to the upper part of white (as in pic) and stays there after 5 mins of starting. My fan is always on direct now, and running on full (for almost a year now). There are no leakages in my radiator etc. I want to get the fan settings back to original form as Im thinking about going for petrol only settings. Also, I didn?t have AC this season.

    Whenever I went to the mechanic/electrician for this problem. He would put his hand under the air filter area, and ask me if the gauge went up, it did, and so his response would be that the gauge is working fine.

    What should be the plan of action to get this problem fixed, as I would be needing the heater in this winter as well.

    Apart from that, is there any additive for radiator as my relatives were using water in it (they had the car for 8months), and it most probably have gotten rust. Any strong additive that I can use for a while to remove rust, and then after some time flush it and start using coolant?

    Daewoo fan club -1252178

    (Note: This isnt my meter pic, got it from the internet)
    AoA

    Can you tell why the radiator fan was running directly rather than automatic? It seems like the engine had a heat-up history in the past and mechanic removed the thermostat valve and made the fan run direct in full speed. When recently your mechanic fiddled with the fan speed, the head gasket got burnt again. There is definitely some problem with the head face, which you can verify by excess pressure/air bubbles in the cooling system. Secondly get the water pump (water body) checked for any problem like broken fins causing poor circulation. Lastly, get the radiator checked for any blockages. Once all these things are sorted out, install a thermostat valve and pour coolant in the system.

    Regarding the temperature gauge, the sender unit seems faulty in your case. Get it replaced..
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

  9. #6188
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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    AoA

    Can you tell why the radiator fan was running directly rather than automatic? It seems like the engine had a heat-up history in the past and mechanic removed the thermostat valve and made the fan run direct in full speed. When recently your mechanic fiddled with the fan speed, the head gasket got burnt again. There is definitely some problem with the head face, which you can verify by excess pressure/air bubbles in the cooling system. Secondly get the water pump (water body) checked for any problem like broken fins causing poor circulation. Lastly, get the radiator checked for any blockages. Once all these things are sorted out, install a thermostat valve and pour coolant in the system.

    Regarding the temperature gauge, the sender unit seems faulty in your case. Get it replaced..
    Thanks for the response. Yes it had heat up issues. The head has been replaced now. Ive checked, and there are no bubbles or excess pressure in the cooling system. I will get the water pump checked, and get the radiator checked again. I hope after I get it to run automatic, I wont face these same issues.

    Thanks

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    Asalamo alikum everybody...
    Test driver need ur help again... as posted earlier i told u about my car heat up issue and the ticking sound..u suggested me to get the tappets serviced and also replace oil pump if it was too old...well here is the entire story...i ve replaced almost every thing in the car...the plugs, plug wires, coil in distributor, ignition module, water body and even replaced the ignition coil with a used one...i went to my home town two weeks back...apart from the ticking sound the car ran ok but also the engine after running like 10 to 20 miles bogged down..other then that the car ran on ac and it was ok...after coming back i decided to change the oil pump...1 week back last saturday. i went to mechanic and changed the oil pump..on opening the tappet cover he checked and two rockers were clogged and he changed them too,..the valves were all ok except one which was a little black but he said it was most probably due to the clogged rocker and because of faulty pump...any way he changed the head gasket just in case.......after doing that..the car ran ok for a day and night...it would jerk a bit only at very high speed....i replaced the ignition coil with my original one and ran the car for a day again but jerking issue was still there...i changed the coil back to the one given to me my my electrician...the next day at noon time as i went to a hosp a few miles from my hostel...the car went there ok..i parked it under shade but after 15 min when i came back and tried to start the car...it wouldnt start at all on cng(my car starts on petrol and converts to cng instantly)...so i swtiched it to petrol and started and and then converted it to cng..but as soon as i rode it on ac...the car vibrated and engine shut off i again started it and this time it started ok but just as i would press the clutch the car would shut down....and this time even when the AC was off...the car a few times jerked violently...so i shifted it to petrol..but this time even on petrol it was jerking but not like it was doing on cng...next day i went to electrician and he said to get the timings adjusted....i went to mechanic and he replaced the entire distributor assembly and drove in the car....(here i ve to mention that i bought a very new ignition coil and then went to mechanic)..with new ignition coil the performance has much improved...the car doesnt shoves and jerks voilently but still when i shift it from one to other gear it jerks and also engine is heating up...even at night time the needle was going up to the top of white mark which it didnt use to do before....
    quite a long story isnt it...but man im really ....... up by this...the mechanic says either its iac valve has problem or its vss sensor is problematic....and regarding VSS sensor i would like to mention that...on routine exam of my car a few weeks ago before i went to my home town it was found that two of its wire were broken right from the root and electrician molded them back and car ran fine to my home town..the car rpms are also not stable at times...some times they go way high up and sometimes remain normal....please i ve told u in detail...so u would understand and give me likely solution to my entire problem..and if u ve any questions kindly u can ask me...

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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    Asalamo alikum everybody...
    Test driver need ur help again... as posted earlier i told u about my car heat up issue and the ticking sound..u suggested me to get the tappets serviced and also replace oil pump if it was too old...well here is the entire story...i ve replaced almost every thing in the car...the plugs, plug wires, coil in distributor, ignition module, water body and even replaced the ignition coil with a used one...i went to my home town two weeks back...apart from the ticking sound the car ran ok but also the engine after running like 10 to 20 miles bogged down..other then that the car ran on ac and it was ok...after coming back i decided to change the oil pump...1 week back last saturday. i went to mechanic and changed the oil pump..on opening the tappet cover he checked and two rockers were clogged and he changed them too,..the valves were all ok except one which was a little black but he said it was most probably due to the clogged rocker and because of faulty pump...any way he changed the head gasket just in case.......after doing that..the car ran ok for a day and night...it would jerk a bit only at very high speed....i replaced the ignition coil with my original one and ran the car for a day again but jerking issue was still there...i changed the coil back to the one given to me my my electrician...the next day at noon time as i went to a hosp a few miles from my hostel...the car went there ok..i parked it under shade but after 15 min when i came back and tried to start the car...it wouldnt start at all on cng(my car starts on petrol and converts to cng instantly)...so i swtiched it to petrol and started and and then converted it to cng..but as soon as i rode it on ac...the car vibrated and engine shut off i again started it and this time it started ok but just as i would press the clutch the car would shut down....and this time even when the AC was off...the car a few times jerked violently...so i shifted it to petrol..but this time even on petrol it was jerking but not like it was doing on cng...next day i went to electrician and he said to get the timings adjusted....i went to mechanic and he replaced the entire distributor assembly and drove in the car....(here i ve to mention that i bought a very new ignition coil and then went to mechanic)..with new ignition coil the performance has much improved...the car doesnt shoves and jerks voilently but still when i shift it from one to other gear it jerks and also engine is heating up...even at night time the needle was going up to the top of white mark which it didnt use to do before....
    quite a long story isnt it...but man im really ....... up by this...the mechanic says either its iac valve has problem or its vss sensor is problematic....and regarding VSS sensor i would like to mention that...on routine exam of my car a few weeks ago before i went to my home town it was found that two of its wire were broken right from the root and electrician molded them back and car ran fine to my home town..the car rpms are also not stable at times...some times they go way high up and sometimes remain normal....please i ve told u in detail...so u would understand and give me likely solution to my entire problem..and if u ve any questions kindly u can ask me...
    WAS,

    It seems like VSS problem (engine stalling). Regarding the temperature needle problem, it should stay at mid point (middle of gauge). The white part depicts a cold engine. Probably there is some problem with the sender unit/wiring/resistance. Engine heat up is indicated when the needle crosses the mid point.
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    WAS,

    It seems like VSS problem (engine stalling). Regarding the temperature needle problem, it should stay at mid point (middle of gauge). The white part depicts a cold engine. Probably there is some problem with the sender unit/wiring/resistance. Engine heat up is indicated when the needle crosses the mid point.
    thx for the quick response....i ve to add here that the fan is direct running at full speed. and at this speed with AC on the needle goes to the top of the white mark but doesn't crosses it. but still when i check the water in the bottle its not clear and transparent. and engine seems heated up..secondly i was searching the net and reading about the symptoms of bad VSS sensor and i read some guy saying if the VSS sensor is problematic, the car heats up as well...is it true? coz i want to confirm is the VSS sensor heating up the car or is the over heating causing the malfunctioning of the VSS sensor?

  13. #6192
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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    thx for the quick response....i ve to add here that the fan is direct running at full speed. and at this speed with AC on the needle goes to the top of the white mark but doesn't crosses it. but still when i check the water in the bottle its not clear and transparent. and engine seems heated up..secondly i was searching the net and reading about the symptoms of bad VSS sensor and i read some guy saying if the VSS sensor is problematic, the car heats up as well...is it true? coz i want to confirm is the VSS sensor heating up the car or is the over heating causing the malfunctioning of the VSS sensor?
    Not necessarily!

    BTW I really doubt if the engine is heating up in your case. Get the gauge and wiring checked, also do remember to check the resistance in series with the sender, it should be exactly 47 Ohm. For reference see the pic:
    Daewoo fan club -1253952
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Default Weekend Work

    Hi All. Ive decided to do some work on my woo. Here is the plan of action for this weekend.

    I will be getting rid of the CNG kit. Yes it?s hard to make that decision and my ghar walay will certainly be not happy with that
    Get all sensors serviced and checked. Service the sensors, i.e. clean the contacts with contact cleaner (a spray) and WD40 id necessary:
    1. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - attached to throttle body
    2. Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) - Under throttle body
    3. Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP Sensor) - Vehicle fire wall
    4. Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - above gear box (leading to Speedo cable)

    Fuel pump and fuel filter checked.

    Get the car scanned by a proper scanner. Replace faulty sensors. I am not sure whether to use new chinese or a kabli one. Keeping the cost factor aside which one should I use for longer life?

    Get the fan running on auto (by the way I had to change the head because of this, as the car got overheated). So ill be making sure about the thermostat valve, coolant temperature sensor and also the temperature guage in the dash (as it was showing the meter was raised to half when the gasket got burnt). Will get it checked by scanner whether it is heating up or not.

    Get the complete wiring checkup (from headlight to tail-light, engine wiring and dash). Completely remove the dashboard and get the wiring fixed. As this car was given to a relative of mine for almost 8 months, the mechanic/electrician they checked the car from did some jugars in the dash, and I?m really pissed about that.

    I have the original Daewoo compressor installed. I will get rid of that as the pipes got leaked. I hope the compressor is ok and that I can sell it off. I won?t be able to install the AC now as I am a little on a budget.

    After all the sensors, electrical systems and mechanical work is in order, change the oil and filter, spark plugs, wires (if-required), timing belt (if-required)

    I'll be getting most of the work done by Mechanic Irfan and Electrician Sajid in Gulrez. Scanner ofcoarse Ill have to go to Islamabad.

    Kindly suggest anything I should be careful about, or any other thing I need to consider. @testdriver

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackhawwk View Post
    Hi All. Ive decided to do some work on my woo. Here is the plan of action for this weekend.

    I will be getting rid of the CNG kit. Yes it?s hard to make that decision and my ghar walay will certainly be not happy with that
    Get all sensors serviced and checked. Service the sensors, i.e. clean the contacts with contact cleaner (a spray) and WD40 id necessary:
    1. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - attached to throttle body
    2. Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) - Under throttle body
    3. Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP Sensor) - Vehicle fire wall
    4. Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - above gear box (leading to Speedo cable)

    Fuel pump and fuel filter checked.

    Get the car scanned by a proper scanner. Replace faulty sensors. I am not sure whether to use new chinese or a kabli one. Keeping the cost factor aside which one should I use for longer life?

    Get the fan running on auto (by the way I had to change the head because of this, as the car got overheated). So ill be making sure about the thermostat valve, coolant temperature sensor and also the temperature guage in the dash (as it was showing the meter was raised to half when the gasket got burnt). Will get it checked by scanner whether it is heating up or not.

    Get the complete wiring checkup (from headlight to tail-light, engine wiring and dash). Completely remove the dashboard and get the wiring fixed. As this car was given to a relative of mine for almost 8 months, the mechanic/electrician they checked the car from did some jugars in the dash, and I?m really pissed about that.

    I have the original Daewoo compressor installed. I will get rid of that as the pipes got leaked. I hope the compressor is ok and that I can sell it off. I won?t be able to install the AC now as I am a little on a budget.

    After all the sensors, electrical systems and mechanical work is in order, change the oil and filter, spark plugs, wires (if-required), timing belt (if-required)

    I'll be getting most of the work done by Mechanic Irfan and Electrician Sajid in Gulrez. Scanner ofcoarse Ill have to go to Islamabad.

    Kindly suggest anything I should be careful about, or any other thing I need to consider. @testdriver

    Thanks
    AoA,

    I took such a decision last year, and quite happy with it! Although CNG is a very good alternate, but not suitable for an engine not designed for it. Engine always run lean causing excessive wear and tear to the engine.

    Regarding the checklist you have prepared, it seems good. Just add the following:

    1. The entire connections of the engine controls (sensors, ECM, Distributor, CO) should be cleaned by contact cleaner first and then resprayed by WD-40 to avoid corrosion. Avoid spraying the contact cleaner on the sensors itself as these sprays are not good for them.

    2. As you have mentioned that head is weak, it will be preferable to get the compression checked and replace the rings too if required. Also replace the water pump while changing the timing belt as well as get the oil pump replaced(if required). Get the genuine timing belt not the cheaper ones to be on a safe side.

    3. If radiator is too old, chances are greater that it has choked tubes here and there. Do get it checked by your mechanic and replace if necessary.

    4. I would advise you to change the throttle body too, as the CNG nozzle wont allow optimum performance and economy. Secondly, close the holes made for CNG cylinder by #1 rubber caps to avoid water entering the boot area.

    5. If fuel pump is faulty, get a 'Bosch' motor as a replacement and use the same old housing (Hopefully the electrician must be aware that Korean motors have reverse polarity than other counterparts). Get the genuine fuel filter too and make sure it is not installed in reverse direction (which mechanics usually do). It has an arrow mark showing the correct direction of installation.

    6. If going for plugs change, get the NGK BPR6EY ones.

    7. Regarding the AC compressor, if it is not faulty, do not sell it as you wont be able to get a good kabli compressor in future.

    8. After everything has been in order, get the main earth as well as main positive contacts cleaned too (Battery terminals, battery-starter +ve contact, starter-alternator contact, battery-starter main earth contact, battery-body earth contact, ECM earth contacts), so that you provide optimum current to the ignition system for a better spark hence better performance and economy.
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

  16. #6195
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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    AoA,

    I took such a decision last year, and quite happy with it! Although CNG is a very good alternate, but not suitable for an engine not designed for it. Engine always run lean causing excessive wear and tear to the engine.

    Regarding the checklist you have prepared, it seems good. Just add the following:

    1. The entire connections of the engine controls (sensors, ECM, Distributor, CO) should be cleaned by contact cleaner first and then resprayed by WD-40 to avoid corrosion. Avoid spraying the contact cleaner on the sensors itself as these sprays are not good for them.

    2. As you have mentioned that head is weak, it will be preferable to get the compression checked and replace the rings too if required. Also replace the water pump while changing the timing belt as well as get the oil pump replaced(if required). Get the genuine timing belt not the cheaper ones to be on a safe side.

    3. If radiator is too old, chances are greater that it has choked tubes here and there. Do get it checked by your mechanic and replace if necessary.

    4. I would advise you to change the throttle body too, as the CNG nozzle wont allow optimum performance and economy. Secondly, close the holes made for CNG cylinder by #1 rubber caps to avoid water entering the boot area.

    5. If fuel pump is faulty, get a 'Bosch' motor as a replacement and use the same old housing (Hopefully the electrician must be aware that Korean motors have reverse polarity than other counterparts). Get the genuine fuel filter too and make sure it is not installed in reverse direction (which mechanics usually do). It has an arrow mark showing the correct direction of installation.

    6. If going for plugs change, get the NGK BPR6EY ones.

    7. Regarding the AC compressor, if it is not faulty, do not sell it as you wont be able to get a good kabli compressor in future.

    8. After everything has been in order, get the main earth as well as main positive contacts cleaned too (Battery terminals, battery-starter +ve contact, starter-alternator contact, battery-starter main earth contact, battery-body earth contact, ECM earth contacts), so that you provide optimum current to the ignition system for a better spark hence better performance and economy.
    Thank you for you detailed response. I definitely will add this on my checklist.

    Regarding the sensors, if they are faulty, should I replace with kabli or a new chinese one?

    About the Compressor. As far as I read it in the forums, the Sanden compressor was preferred. What I have in mind, is that I sell this off, or get it exchanged for a new Sanden compressor. I am pretty sure that after I am done with my checklist I wont have enough money to install the pipes and gas etc, so Ill keep that for a couple of months later. By the way, do the compressor and gas prices really go down in winters? If so, Ill do this trade then

    I hope everything goes fine and I am satisfied with the car's performance .. Will post the details once I am done with it ..!

  17. #6196
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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    Not necessarily!

    BTW I really doubt if the engine is heating up in your case. Get the gauge and wiring checked, also do remember to check the resistance in series with the sender, it should be exactly 47 Ohm. For reference see the pic:
    Daewoo fan club -1253952



    the guage was changed few months back...before that the older one had resistance installed..but after installing this the mechanic removed the resistance...
    yesterday i replaced the VSS sensor with a brand new one..the grip was different...the shopkeeper who sold said that the electrician should know how to correctly attach the wiriing of this sensor with the grip of old one...i went to eclectrician and he replaced it.... the original issue in which car use to stop is resolved ...but still there is some jerks...i contacted electrician and he said come to me and he will correct the timing....
    my question is the original vss sensor had three wire from left to right there color were black, brown and blue. the one which i bought had there colors left to right red black and blue....
    the guy whom i purchased it said that the electirican should know how to correctly match the wiring or the sensor wont work ...he said that the new one had two wire similiar in color and just 3rd one different.. so similar colored wires would go together and disimilar will go together...but the electrician on the other had ....connected black with red and folowing the sequence as they were on old ...
    could it be that the wires were not correctly connected that the sensor may not b working fully? or completely? kind reply me thxc

  18. #6197
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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    the guage was changed few months back...before that the older one had resistance installed..but after installing this the mechanic removed the resistance...
    yesterday i replaced the VSS sensor with a brand new one..the grip was different...the shopkeeper who sold said that the electrician should know how to correctly attach the wiriing of this sensor with the grip of old one...i went to eclectrician and he replaced it.... the original issue in which car use to stop is resolved ...but still there is some jerks...i contacted electrician and he said come to me and he will correct the timing....
    my question is the original vss sensor had three wire from left to right there color were black, brown and blue. the one which i bought had there colors left to right red black and blue....
    the guy whom i purchased it said that the electirican should know how to correctly match the wiring or the sensor wont work ...he said that the new one had two wire similiar in color and just 3rd one different.. so similar colored wires would go together and disimilar will go together...but the electrician on the other had ....connected black with red and folowing the sequence as they were on old ...
    could it be that the wires were not correctly connected that the sensor may not b working fully? or completely? kind reply me thxc
    By looking at the wiring diagram, it seems like the connection is fine. BTW, ECM instantly throws CEL if the connection is improper.
    Daewoo fan club -1255632
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

  19. #6198
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    Dear testdriver bhai and all members AoA, I've got an engine with five speed gears (kabli).I intend selling on reasonable price to any member or accomplice who requires it. Actually I 've collected alot of spares as it was my hobby *** compulsion.I am owner of Racer for last 13 yrs and maint it with the help of this forum and testdriver. Now I am tired of the ill trained mechanics and decided to sell my beloved car. Ithink Daewoo can only be kept in its original condition and performance levels if you are in Isd or Rwp,and can be kept in sustainable condition if you are in Lhr, Kci. Still I strongly believe that it is an excellent vehicle and can be termed as complete car for our country.
    Now I a days I am in Kharian and recently had to pay Rs 2000 (for a wrong wire connection made by a local mechanic), to Mr khalid(Isd mech) as he had to send a tech all the way from Isd.Regards

  20. #6199
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    Dear test driver AoA you mentioned about converting to petrol and quite satisfied can you please share the pluses and exact mileage.

  21. #6200
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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    By looking at the wiring diagram, it seems like the connection is fine. BTW, ECM instantly throws CEL if the connection is improper.
    Daewoo fan club -1255632



    salam test driver
    there is no cel which appears on my meter...yesterday again while driving the car needle reached the top of white mark..and then suddenly when i pressed the clutch the engine stalled on CNG...and i started it ,pressed the clutch and it shut down,...so i went to electrician again..he checked distributor all plug wires..current was coming every where but then car would start on petrol as well....(like to mention here that car didnt shut down on petrol just vibrated but on cng it would shut down on pressing clutch)....the electrician checked and thought that router was the problem but then he accidentally checked the grip of ignition coil and car started again...he did some cng adjusment..ran the car with me which ran ok at the time....he tightened the grip of the coil...

    today again the car had jerks more pronounced on CNG....i asked the electrician about the VSS sensor and he said if the connection was wrong the car would stall and wont start...just wanted to clearify that....could there be a short circuit of some kind some where from the fuse box to ignition coil grip or could only the grip be the only culprit..as i read on net intermittent electric current can also cause this...? kindly reply

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