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    Default Daewoo Racer/Cielo Fan Club

    Dear All,

    I am an owner of Daewoo Racer since 1995. It has proven to be a very comfortable and economical car throughout this period. It used to give an average of 13Km/L within city and ~15Km/L on long drives. Here are some pictures:


    Daewoo fan club -479355


    Daewoo fan club -479356


    Daewoo fan club -1050638

    Check the links for my rides
    1. Before 2008 (Racer)
    Daewoo Racer
    2. After Jan 2008 (Cielo)
    Daewoo Cielo


    I would recommend buying this car who want a better car at low budgets!

    Any member having used a Daewoo car must share their experience....(y)


    IMPORTANT: SCANNER Facility is Available at Friends Autos, I-9, Islamabad. [Khalid: 0322-5111110, 0321-9562840]


    Quick Links:

    Parts Dealers/workshops link [Page-3 post #:54]:


    Alloy Rim fitment [Page-15 post #:290]:


    The DOHC engine[Page-30 post #:585]:


    Service Manual/Electrical Diagrams link[Page-30 post #:594]:


    Cielo Conversion [Page-57 post #:1130]:


    How to get Black Bumpers [Page-60 post #:1315]:


    Reading ECM Error Codes [Page-191 post #:3804]:



    Air Conditioner maintenance shops [Page-195 post #:3897]:



    High RPM/Stalling Problem on AC, OK Otherwise[Page-203 post #:4048]:


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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    the number 2 fuse in my car is getting burned alot these days.....its desi fuse ...where can i find genuine fuse in lahore for daewoo racer...n will the issue be resolved on using a genuine fuse...one of the back light was touching the ground so electrician applied the tape but now when i start my car the engine light n battery n oil indicator lights all blink two to three times before starting....n there was no such issue before i changed the fuse....
    As you mentioned a short circuit in the back light, not only the fuse no.2 got blown, but probably a mismatched/higher amperage was previously installed, that also caused the illumination/other wires to burn. You should get the wiring checked.
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    As you mentioned a short circuit in the back light, not only the fuse no.2 got blown, but probably a mismatched/higher amperage was previously installed, that also caused the illumination/other wires to burn. You should get the wiring checked.
    yes may be thats the reason the ignition switch points got burned up...the fuse box is old n some fuses r given current from nearbye fuse wires...so i dont know which fuse to install. if a 20amp fuse is given current from a 10amp fuse wire then which fuse be used ...10 or 20amp? as im unable to get fuse box here in lhr...n every electrician says it cant be repaired.

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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    yes may be thats the reason the ignition switch points got burned up...the fuse box is old n some fuses r given current from nearbye fuse wires...so i dont know which fuse to install. if a 20amp fuse is given current from a 10amp fuse wire then which fuse be used ...10 or 20amp? as im unable to get fuse box here in lhr...n every electrician says it cant be repaired.
    In this scenario, although not recommended at all, the one having low amperage rating will blow first on an overload situation. For fuse box, you have to purchase the it with complete wiring. It is not readily available here too, but kabari can arrange for something like Rs.15-20K. Did you ask Korea Autos? I think they should be able to arrange it for you.
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    yes may be thats the reason the ignition switch points got burned up...the fuse box is old n some fuses r given current from nearbye fuse wires...so i dont know which fuse to install. if a 20amp fuse is given current from a 10amp fuse wire then which fuse be used ...10 or 20amp? as im unable to get fuse box here in lhr...n every electrician says it cant be repaired.
    Get a fuse apply a every little drop of silicon dielectric grease on it leg and put fuse in place it would ensure no arcing of fuse and no arcing mean fuse won't heat up

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    Hey adnan(testdriver),

    My car is eating alot of fuel. I have been working very hard to diagnose the issue. I came to the conclusion that the head in my engine (Stock OHC 1498cc) is the culprit specifically the valves. As this current head is of GTI engine and also the valves are in bad condition and there seals as well so i am looking for a good piece of Daewoo stock engine head but they are very rare in market with good condition. Tahir at g-8 has been searching it for me for about a month but not find a good one. There was one but the guy who had it was selling at a ridiculous price. So first to anyone who can help, if someone has a in good condition stock daewoo OHC head with him or know a guy that has one please let me know.

    Second i discussed with Tahir the option of changing the engine to e-tec and he said that though the engine can be found but the wiring and computer box for it is unavailable in market. Can you please suggest that if i dont go for the head option and go for engine swap. What would you recommend. I prefer originality so will need option where the wiring and computer and the engine etc are all matched and no alteration.

    Third I am thinking on a full internal external overhaul with Daewoo Nexia body in mind. Please suggest if its a good option to go for as if i do spend on this option then i need to make sure that it will be reliable for me for the next 2-3 years as i have only the financials to only do this one time and can't bare the thought of spending alot every 3-6 months after doing this. So please advise who to consult for this who can paint the car good who can work out the electrics good and if someone is good enough to handle all this work in one place.

    Thanks in advance to all for help. Waiting for replies soon.

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    P.S. All computer sensors and everything is working correctly and all setting is optimal. I am a nerd in case of car problems and i assure that i have tried and checked every possibility except the head and valves for optimizing fuel economy. Tried the CO setting as well but no avail. Currently car giving 5-6 km/ltr with AC and 6-7 Km/Ltr without AC.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackhawwk View Post
    Sir, if you could explain this a little bit more in lay man terms to 'noobs' like me .. What fluids to get, and how to convince mechanics to apply these. You may unfold the decades long issue for daewoo's brake problems .. Your help will be highly appreciated.

    Thanks.
    the brake caliper is two parts, one is the pad carrier bracket and one is the piston housing, the piston housing is mounted with 2 pins that allow the caliper to react and apply both brake pads.

    These two PINS require lubrication with silicone grease, silicone grease is a non-run, non-melt non curing silicone compound that is completely waterproof and provides light duty lubrication and can sustain elevated temperatures. - It is available as O ring grease in Pakistan, ask the user @syncview or @capsat

    Using regular grease here will cause the rubber parts on the pin to swell and sieze the caliper (which means you then have no brakes to stop the car). -

    the brake fluid - aka brake oil requires complete change every 12 months, you would need 2 or 3 small bottles depending on how bad your system is. Any good branded oil like Guard, Sieken or Nissin is recommended.

    The rubber pipes also require change every 5 years if the car is not used a lot.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    the harris o-ring grease is available at brandth road lahore.
    https://www.facebook.com/OsamaAbbasPhotography

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    Quote Originally Posted by nasirtariq View Post
    Hey adnan(testdriver),

    My car is eating alot of fuel. I have been working very hard to diagnose the issue. I came to the conclusion that the head in my engine (Stock OHC 1498cc) is the culprit specifically the valves. As this current head is of GTI engine and also the valves are in bad condition and there seals as well so i am looking for a good piece of Daewoo stock engine head but they are very rare in market with good condition. Tahir at g-8 has been searching it for me for about a month but not find a good one. There was one but the guy who had it was selling at a ridiculous price. So first to anyone who can help, if someone has a in good condition stock daewoo OHC head with him or know a guy that has one please let me know.

    Second i discussed with Tahir the option of changing the engine to e-tec and he said that though the engine can be found but the wiring and computer box for it is unavailable in market. Can you please suggest that if i dont go for the head option and go for engine swap. What would you recommend. I prefer originality so will need option where the wiring and computer and the engine etc are all matched and no alteration.

    Third I am thinking on a full internal external overhaul with Daewoo Nexia body in mind. Please suggest if its a good option to go for as if i do spend on this option then i need to make sure that it will be reliable for me for the next 2-3 years as i have only the financials to only do this one time and can't bare the thought of spending alot every 3-6 months after doing this. So please advise who to consult for this who can paint the car good who can work out the electrics good and if someone is good enough to handle all this work in one place.

    Thanks in advance to all for help. Waiting for replies soon.
    AoA

    Is there any kind of 'missing'? Engine consuming more oil? Any white smoke on cold starts? First of all get a compression test done to check if engine is in good nick. If the engine is providing bad mileage up to the extent you have mentioned, it should emit sufficient black smoke from the exhaust (on petrol). Did you scan the system through scanner?

    Regarding the E-TEC engine, you can consult an expert electrician who can patch the connectors from your current setup and make the engine run on the existing ECM/Wiring.

    Regarding the Nexia body conversion, if you are currently running a converted Cielo, then there are less modifications needed. If you want peace of mind, do not go for conversion, instead overhaul your existing car. Finding a reliable facility which can do all the stuff at one place is difficult, but you check the facility of Tahir or Friends Autos!
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Is there any kind of 'missing'? : Well not that prominent the only miss i feel is that in the sound from the exhaust which i try to minimize using the CO meter. Otherwise all cables and spark plugs are ok.

    Engine consuming more oil? Any white smoke on cold starts? : I noticed oil consumption when about 5 months ago my head gasket burnt and my head had bit wear and tear near 4th cylinder corner. I got it repaired and installed and after that the engine oil tends to reduce but the plugs are clean. No white smoke in cold or warm or when reeving rpm up. Still no clue where the oil is going. No leakage as well or one that i may not have seem but will inspect and look at this more. But i would like to mention that the milage problem has been there for more than a year.

    If the engine is providing bad mileage up to the extent you have mentioned, it should emit sufficient black smoke from the exhaust (on petrol). Did you scan the system through scanner? : Yes i got it scanned a lot of times. The last time i shared in this blog the values and you pointed correctly at the heat sensor as it was showing value quite low near 67 degree at full warmed engine run. This was causing the engine to eject black smoke on reeving up the engine and also hesitation. I got that replaced and scanned again and the black smoke and hesitation was fixed though i still have hesitation but that is due to the fact that i have the CO set at 2.5 to lower fuel input a bit without effecting performance that much but if i set the CO to idle petrol setting of 3.3 - 3.8 then the hesitation stops and performance is great but then the petrol consumption is ridiculous. About 5-6 with or without AC.

    First of all get a compression test done to check if engine is in good nick? : Good idea. Can you suggest a good place in Islamabad to get compression test done.

    All in all i have been really feed up with this problem but i know daewoo for about 11 years now and know alot on it and have put in all my effort to get this daewoo to give good mileage. All sensors are working. Scanner shows all values ok. Everything i can think of is checked and accounted for. The only 2 things (1 is suspect is the culprit then the other) is 1. Vacuum leak (Checked as much as i can and tried blocking air a bit to see if mileage improves but nothing. 2. Head and particularly Valve. I have researched that the valves and the valve spring play a very important role in performance and mileage and that if the springs are weak and the seals of valves and condition of valves themselves is bad then the intake valve lets in more fuel then needed and hence performance drops, hesitations and most of all MPG effected so as i have tried everything else. Might as well try replacing the head with the stock as this one is a GTI version which does put some doubts in my mind as the culprit as well but most mechanics say it doesn't effect it.

    Sorry for long reply. Really need help. Don't have enough to buy a good car so need to get this car fit.

    Thanks for the help adnan. Have a great day.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nasirtariq View Post
    Is there any kind of 'missing'? : Well not that prominent the only miss i feel is that in the sound from the exhaust which i try to minimize using the CO meter. Otherwise all cables and spark plugs are ok.

    Engine consuming more oil? Any white smoke on cold starts? : I noticed oil consumption when about 5 months ago my head gasket burnt and my head had bit wear and tear near 4th cylinder corner. I got it repaired and installed and after that the engine oil tends to reduce but the plugs are clean. No white smoke in cold or warm or when reeving rpm up. Still no clue where the oil is going. No leakage as well or one that i may not have seem but will inspect and look at this more. But i would like to mention that the milage problem has been there for more than a year.

    If the engine is providing bad mileage up to the extent you have mentioned, it should emit sufficient black smoke from the exhaust (on petrol). Did you scan the system through scanner? : Yes i got it scanned a lot of times. The last time i shared in this blog the values and you pointed correctly at the heat sensor as it was showing value quite low near 67 degree at full warmed engine run. This was causing the engine to eject black smoke on reeving up the engine and also hesitation. I got that replaced and scanned again and the black smoke and hesitation was fixed though i still have hesitation but that is due to the fact that i have the CO set at 2.5 to lower fuel input a bit without effecting performance that much but if i set the CO to idle petrol setting of 3.3 - 3.8 then the hesitation stops and performance is great but then the petrol consumption is ridiculous. About 5-6 with or without AC.

    First of all get a compression test done to check if engine is in good nick? : Good idea. Can you suggest a good place in Islamabad to get compression test done.

    All in all i have been really feed up with this problem but i know daewoo for about 11 years now and know alot on it and have put in all my effort to get this daewoo to give good mileage. All sensors are working. Scanner shows all values ok. Everything i can think of is checked and accounted for. The only 2 things (1 is suspect is the culprit then the other) is 1. Vacuum leak (Checked as much as i can and tried blocking air a bit to see if mileage improves but nothing. 2. Head and particularly Valve. I have researched that the valves and the valve spring play a very important role in performance and mileage and that if the springs are weak and the seals of valves and condition of valves themselves is bad then the intake valve lets in more fuel then needed and hence performance drops, hesitations and most of all MPG effected so as i have tried everything else. Might as well try replacing the head with the stock as this one is a GTI version which does put some doubts in my mind as the culprit as well but most mechanics say it doesn't effect it.

    Sorry for long reply. Really need help. Don't have enough to buy a good car so need to get this car fit.

    Thanks for the help adnan. Have a great day.

    The engine seems to be weak. Get the compression tested by Tahir. Secondly, according to your analysis about valves, if more fuel is being injected, there should be black smoke from the exhaust. This also stands true for vacuum leak since vacuum leak at the intake will lead to erroneous reading by the MAP sensor and therefore bad fuel metering, but there should be missing in such a case. BTW how do you check the fuel average? either putting 5 litres in empty tank and running you car until its empty or full tank - 100km -full tank. The second method is more accurate and safe.
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Ok will get compression test done. You are right i should see black smoke. I think there is black smoke but not in a specific amount to note until reeving from dead 0 to flooring the pedal. And yes i use the second method. Full tank and then fill it up again. Also tried method 1 as well. The current one i tested was 140 km run gave me 7 / ltr. Mixed running with AC and without and also had about 50 km as long route. Anyway. Will get the compression test done by Tahir this weekend and see what comes up. I am not getting free time to get all the wiring out and testing and fixing it if any corrosion or bad joints etc. Cause i saw a significant amount of voltage drop e.g. When i was setting the CO meter i first used the method applied by all mechanics which i believe is wrong. i.e. putting the positive on the co output to ecu and earthing it with the engine or body. that gave lets say for example 3.3v. When removed the earth from the engine and put it with the earth that is actually coming up with in the CO sensor. The reading dropped about to 3.0v. So i found out that there is a .3v difference and have been setting it up with the co negative and positive (the 3.0v one) as i think that is the actual value going to the ecu. Anyway also tested the map sensor voltage behavior, TPS there is a way to test the heat sensor as well but it seemed difficult so to save time ran to Khalid for scanner . I had built a circuit to read Daewoo ecm using softwares. I reached up to where the data flow was being read between 6800-7200 baud which is quite low as i had a software to test ALDL cable and interface. I needed a FTDI chip which i tried buying online but that thing turned out to be a copy. Cant find a original one or i would have been successful in making my own scanner. Still looking out to get that chip. Anyway. Alot busy these days so did not get back to that. Thanks Adnan. I will try getting the compression test done. By the way. Love to have a chance to meet with you so email me if you get free for a meeting in islamabad. Take Care. bye.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nasirtariq View Post
    Ok will get compression test done. You are right i should see black smoke. I think there is black smoke but not in a specific amount to note until reeving from dead 0 to flooring the pedal. And yes i use the second method. Full tank and then fill it up again. Also tried method 1 as well. The current one i tested was 140 km run gave me 7 / ltr. Mixed running with AC and without and also had about 50 km as long route. Anyway. Will get the compression test done by Tahir this weekend and see what comes up. I am not getting free time to get all the wiring out and testing and fixing it if any corrosion or bad joints etc. Cause i saw a significant amount of voltage drop e.g. When i was setting the CO meter i first used the method applied by all mechanics which i believe is wrong. i.e. putting the positive on the co output to ecu and earthing it with the engine or body. that gave lets say for example 3.3v. When removed the earth from the engine and put it with the earth that is actually coming up with in the CO sensor. The reading dropped about to 3.0v. So i found out that there is a .3v difference and have been setting it up with the co negative and positive (the 3.0v one) as i think that is the actual value going to the ecu. Anyway also tested the map sensor voltage behavior, TPS there is a way to test the heat sensor as well but it seemed difficult so to save time ran to Khalid for scanner . I had built a circuit to read Daewoo ecm using softwares. I reached up to where the data flow was being read between 6800-7200 baud which is quite low as i had a software to test ALDL cable and interface. I needed a FTDI chip which i tried buying online but that thing turned out to be a copy. Cant find a original one or i would have been successful in making my own scanner. Still looking out to get that chip. Anyway. Alot busy these days so did not get back to that. Thanks Adnan. I will try getting the compression test done. By the way. Love to have a chance to meet with you so email me if you get free for a meeting in islamabad. Take Care. bye.
    nice to know that people working to make their own scanner for daewoo.
    i pray you get chip FTDI.

    but milage 140 on full tank is too bad. i get 11.5 to12.5 and mostly on long route.
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    Actually i meant that after full tank i ran 140 kilometer and when i refilled it calculated to 7km/Ltr. Also checked today. No black smoke coming. Engine is throwing clean exhaust. No white smoke as well. This really is a brainer. I am still convinced that my head has something to do with it. Please if anyone has knowledge of a good head for stock engine. Not the GTI version but original please let me know. And also i hear mostly every Daewoo owner say they are getting 10-12 km/ltr. Which really bothers me alot as to why my car is not giving that. One thing i noted today was that when i give full throtle from dead zero the car hesitated meaning that there is extra fuel going in some how and yet i dont see significant amount of black smoke. May be it blows out early when reeving and when extra fuel burned no black smoke on full throtle position. Anyway. Looking for ways to solve this. I really love Daewoo and its comfort but now a days chinese parts and very expensive kabli parts are really making a very good car die in the market.

    P.S. I noted when i was getting my car's alignment done that my cylincer was bent/dented that it seemed it was restricting 45% of the flow of exhaust right after the small sound chamber or dholki in the middle of the car and also the small dholki also had a dent in it. Can this also be a reason on high mileage as there is back pressure on the exhaust and engine taking load?

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    Quote Originally Posted by nasirtariq View Post
    Actually i meant that after full tank i ran 140 kilometer and when i refilled it calculated to 7km/Ltr. Also checked today. No black smoke coming. Engine is throwing clean exhaust. No white smoke as well. This really is a brainer. I am still convinced that my head has something to do with it. Please if anyone has knowledge of a good head for stock engine. Not the GTI version but original please let me know. And also i hear mostly every Daewoo owner say they are getting 10-12 km/ltr. Which really bothers me alot as to why my car is not giving that. One thing i noted today was that when i give full throtle from dead zero the car hesitated meaning that there is extra fuel going in some how and yet i dont see significant amount of black smoke. May be it blows out early when reeving and when extra fuel burned no black smoke on full throtle position. Anyway. Looking for ways to solve this. I really love Daewoo and its comfort but now a days chinese parts and very expensive kabli parts are really making a very good car die in the market.

    P.S. I noted when i was getting my car's alignment done that my cylincer was bent/dented that it seemed it was restricting 45% of the flow of exhaust right after the small sound chamber or dholki in the middle of the car and also the small dholki also had a dent in it. Can this also be a reason on high mileage as there is back pressure on the exhaust and engine taking load?

    Is your car exhaust original? - Originally it had a pretty free flowing exhaust and thats why it had the odd booming sound too

    Its an old GM car, not too bad to sort out, if you are facing a stumble on acceleration, have you tested the fuel line pressure? the FPR mounted on the injector housing itself.
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    The car exhaust main big sound chamber i think is changed. I think the previous owner got it changed. Regarding Fuel pressure, I got the input and output checked by Tahir and he said the fuel pressure is ok. Got the fuel filter cleaned out as well. no issue there. The injector maybe throwing more fuel but tried changing that as well and no effect. The injector pulse is around 1.0 - 1.1 if CO set to 2.8 - 3.3 and if i set the CO to 2.3 - 2.7 then the injector pulse goes down to 0.9 - 1.0. I got this checked by scanner. When Khalid once set the CO to 2.5 and pulse was at 0.9. Then the car started giving 8 km / ltr without AC but the power was a bit down.

    Does Daewoo have a FPR? Can you let me know where its located through an image if it does have one? I think the FPR for Daewoo Racer is within the Throtle body housing itself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nasirtariq View Post
    The car exhaust main big sound chamber i think is changed. I think the previous owner got it changed. Regarding Fuel pressure, I got the input and output checked by Tahir and he said the fuel pressure is ok. Got the fuel filter cleaned out as well. no issue there. The injector maybe throwing more fuel but tried changing that as well and no effect. The injector pulse is around 1.0 - 1.1 if CO set to 2.8 - 3.3 and if i set the CO to 2.3 - 2.7 then the injector pulse goes down to 0.9 - 1.0. I got this checked by scanner. When Khalid once set the CO to 2.5 and pulse was at 0.9. Then the car started giving 8 km / ltr without AC but the power was a bit down.

    Does Daewoo have a FPR? Can you let me know where its located through an image if it does have one? I think the FPR for Daewoo Racer is within the Throtle body housing itself.
    The FPR is the round metal can about the size of a Rs 5 coin in diameter on the injector housing body. To test system pressure you need to make an adapter for the inlet line.

    A higher system pressure will make the engine run rich and as your car has no o2 sensor it wont try to adjust.
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    Hmm. Good point. What is the ideal fuel pressure that i should look for? I do have a cutout installed on the fuel pump as it's dimmed and introduced jerks in running on petrol cause of low pressure. After the relay installation the running got smooth. Any will be diagnosing as much as i can and will share here. Thanks for the help and info.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nasirtariq View Post
    Hmm. Good point. What is the ideal fuel pressure that i should look for? I do have a cutout installed on the fuel pump as it's dimmed and introduced jerks in running on petrol cause of low pressure. After the relay installation the running got smooth. Any will be diagnosing as much as i can and will share here. Thanks for the help and info.
    GM TBi is regualted at 12 to 14 psi. What was the need for an additional fuel pump relay? There is one already in the fuse panel under the dash.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Aoa. ...the problem is when my ac is running for long like on long routes the water starts dripping inside the car cabin.. mostly on my foot pedal and also sometimes it drips on car stereo.. as a result of this the car stereo has burnt one already and last day on my way to bwp the ecm starting turning up .. I tried to get rid of it by taking out its fuse but it didn't go... even after standing out shut for whole night the ecm was still giving code.. so I tried to diagnose it but even the pin A and B was not shorting even when I used the same lead I use always whenever I wanna check the codes ... but when I started the car with the wire still attached to the connector.. the ecm finally didn't show up... I took out the ecm .. there was some evidence of water deposit near it pins so I'm now trying to dry it under the fan... both my stereo n ecm... but what can I do about it ... till I reach back to lhr .. I mean temporary measure ... and why is water dripping inside ... any body got any clue ... I'm thinking to put both ecm n stereo in plastic bags to avoid water contact .....

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