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Thread: @Xulfiqar Sb: Bought c180 98 model (my 1st Merc) Help with startup maintenance/repair

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    Default @Xulfiqar Sb: Bought c180 98 model. Need help with maintenance/repair.

    @Xulfiqar Sb:
    I have seen lots of threads and lots of posts and am deeply impressed by your knowledge of vehicles. I am trying to browse through but things are so spread about that it is confusion. Moreover, perhaps every case is different and need specialized help, at least for the first time.

    This Monday, I bought a c180 98, Elegance Model with 93K miles (allegedly) on the odo. In driving for these 3 days I have jotted up a list of my observations, some serious, I believe. I need your expert advice on it. Here is the list of serious observations:

    [Post Edited with problems listed as solved/unsolved. The details of how a problem was solved is spread all over the many pages and posts. Please delve into the thread for details.]

    SOLVED PROBLEMS WITH CAUSES AND REMEDIES:
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1. Vibration in D, Cause: One engine mount was cut, replaced.
    2. Temp gauge does not get to half point, Cause: T-stat valve was jammed, replaced.
    3. Fluids replaced = Engine Oil and Transmission oil.
    4. Vibration in steering at all speeds, Causes: Mountings (changed), warped rotors, machined, balancing and alignment done. New steering shock installed.
    5. Rear Left Window does not close with button on door, Cause: Button faulty, replaced.
    6. Random HVAC blower speed: Ordered HVAC control unit from eBay. Fitted and working fine. No more issue.
    7. Broken Cruise Control: Ordered from eBay. Fitted and working fine.
    8. SRS AIRBAG Warning Light in Dash, Cause: Star scan tool (at Papu ustad, Pindi) told about two crash sensors (one under each front seat) to be faulty (or their connection is faulty). Shop gave a price of Rs.7,000 for 2 but I see that used are cheaply available on eBay. Would order two soon.
    9. Left handbrake shoe friction sound. I fitted new handbrake shoes and thought it needed adjustment. However, it turned out, after 5 tries at it, that the lug nuts on the wheels were of slightly varying length. The longer ones would brush on the handbrake clip that expands the mechanism. Older one was damaged. Got it replaced. Sound started coming after few days. I swapped some lug nuts from other wheels. It is peace ever since!
    10. Intermittent Windows -- Passenger and Driver side windows would not operate after few days of reset in any order. I suspected the rear-left window control module, opened the door cover to find that there is no window control module there! So this must not be the cause.
    Recently, I cleaned all the electric ground points in the vehicle. The issue of intermittent windows had reduced a great deal. More so, because before starting the vehicle, I operate all windows (first point in ignition).
    11. COOLANT VANISHING -- I needed to add 1 L in like 2 weeks (driving 300 miles). The cause was a leaky radiator. In summers the problem increased until I saw coolant drops beneath an idling car. Previous radiator was corroded with use of wrong coolant. Radiator replaced with a good condition exact part (Behr) from a half-cut. Coolant used would definitely be as per spec or MB.

    UNSOLVED PROBLEMS that are being debugged:
    ------------------------------------------------------------
    12. Relay clicking type sound behind key:
    The sound can start anytime but luckily not too often. Usually in peaceful driving it would be calm. Sometimes when I take some action like press brake pedal, turn on indicator, it will start clicking. I can feel the throbbing when I touch the key. Would start and stop itself.
    I have found out that whenever that clicking sound is heard, horn won't blow. Conversely when the horn does not blow, there are chances of those clicking sounds. When the horn blows, there won't be any clicking sound in that drive. Still trying to solicit the cause in a deterministic way.
    13. Sudden Downshift Jerk: Sometimes after driving the vehicle for a long time, like one hour, when slowing down because of mild braking (to a speed for which 1st gear may be needed) the car shifts into 1st gear very hardly.
    Kindly please advise. I am a keeper since I am a busy person. The car I was driving before this is with me for 9 years. For once, I want this car to be in a state that I know how things are. Thank you in anticipation and sorry for trouble.

    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help wi startup maintenancerepair -1636367

    PS: Car is with me for 6 months now, with 99,000 miles on Odo. (21 May, 2016)
    Aamer

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    Found some time today. Got a pathetic set of jumper cables from someone. Pathetic in the sense that the crocodile clamps were loose and broken. However, finally using a spare battery (from another car) I was able to connect its +ve to the connector near the passenger side hinge of the hood (under a plastic cover) and the -ve to a screw in the body of the car. The dome lights turning ON showed the car got power, so the button on the key fob opened the trunk.
    Tried to get the car started but the lousy jumper cables were too loose to allow the required current. I removed the dead battery (which read 2.1V when connected and 4V when removed) and gave to a nearby shop for charging.
    Now, I haven't closed the boot fully (fastened it with a cable) so that I do not have to go through all the exercise again (it is awkward since the passenger side is tightly parked by the wall).

    Whatever had loaded the battery during these 10 days of no use, had pretty much extracted every bit of juice from the battery! I suspect the front dome light. The reason is the last thing I checked on the car (10 days ago) was them going bad. The lights can be turned ON or OFF from the button but the feature that they turn ON when a door opens and turn OFF when all doors are closed was/is not working (checked today too). Only the rear seat light exhibits this behaviour.
    The second possibility is the click-clack behind the ignition. Possibly some relay might have remained stuck when turning off the vehicle the last time.
    The third possibility is the known bad HVAC controller. Unfortunately the HVAC I got off eBay hadn't yet reached me. Once that arrives I will be able to have a look at what works and what is bad behind/inside the dash.
    In the meanwhile, I will appreciate if someone can point to some excellent electrician for these cars.

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    How to open car's boot? Did not use the car for 10 days and now it is lifeless. The metal key opens the driver's door and I can open the engine hood but how to get to boot? Probably there is something in the car that consistently drains the battery -- maybe the same thing that drives the CANBus down!

    I think this should work?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysJ5TODL2Nc
    is your bootlid lock original to the car?

    the blade key in your smart key should open the bootlid and the doors. If your boot lid lock is stuck then pop the bonnet and connect the jumper cables to the provided jump start posts and then pop the bootlid
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    Found some time today. Got a pathetic set of jumper cables from someone. Pathetic in the sense that the crocodile clamps were loose and broken. However, finally using a spare battery (from another car) I was able to connect its +ve to the connector near the passenger side hinge of the hood (under a plastic cover) and the -ve to a screw in the body of the car. The dome lights turning ON showed the car got power, so the button on the key fob opened the trunk.
    Tried to get the car started but the lousy jumper cables were too loose to allow the required current. I removed the dead battery (which read 2.1V when connected and 4V when removed) and gave to a nearby shop for charging.
    Now, I haven't closed the boot fully (fastened it with a cable) so that I do not have to go through all the exercise again (it is awkward since the passenger side is tightly parked by the wall).

    Whatever had loaded the battery during these 10 days of no use, had pretty much extracted every bit of juice from the battery! I suspect the front dome light. The reason is the last thing I checked on the car (10 days ago) was them going bad. The lights can be turned ON or OFF from the button but the feature that they turn ON when a door opens and turn OFF when all doors are closed was/is not working (checked today too). Only the rear seat light exhibits this behaviour.
    The second possibility is the click-clack behind the ignition. Possibly some relay might have remained stuck when turning off the vehicle the last time.
    The third possibility is the known bad HVAC controller. Unfortunately the HVAC I got off eBay hadn't yet reached me. Once that arrives I will be able to have a look at what works and what is bad behind/inside the dash.
    In the meanwhile, I will appreciate if someone can point to some excellent electrician for these cars.
    I would suggest to check all the grounding points on the car and find the X30 connector for the bus. MB piles up grounding lugs on top of each other at different points. When the lowest one which connects to the body metal loses contact, the other grounds start to loop on each other.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    is your bootlid lock original to the car?

    the blade key in your smart key should open the bootlid and the doors. If your boot lid lock is stuck then pop the bonnet and connect the jumper cables to the provided jump start posts and then pop the bootlid
    I am not sure if the bootlid lock is original. I suspect it is not, since it does not open with the metal key. Yes this procedure helped me pop the lid.

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    I recently discovered the engine oil to be more than the max mark. I am not sure if the dip stick available in it is the correct one or not. Is there an alternate way to know if the engine oil level is OK or not?
    I checked the dip stick and it showed 1 cm higher than the max mark!!!
    Panicked, I removed some 1.5L oil (saved in a bottle) to get it around 3 mm below max mark. But ...... 1.5L excess oil .... seriously!!! Can a mercedes mechanic, allegedly, be so negligent?

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    I recently discovered the engine oil to be more than the max mark. I am not sure if the dip stick available in it is the correct one or not. Is there an alternate way to know if the engine oil level is OK or not?
    I checked the dip stick and it showed 1 cm higher than the max mark!!!
    Panicked, I removed some 1.5L oil (saved in a bottle) to get it around 3 mm below max mark. But ...... 1.5L excess oil .... seriously!!! Can a mercedes mechanic, allegedly, be so negligent?
    sounds like the person pouring it in was not paying attention
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    sounds like the person pouring it in was not paying attention
    Its a common practice. More oil = gaari rawaan + customer pays more for more oil.

    Enviado desde mi GT-I9500 usando Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Its a common practice. More oil = gaari rawaan + customer pays more for more oil.

    Enviado desde mi GT-I9500 usando Tapatalk

    umm - more oil = engine ka dhuan - not gaari rawaan
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    umm - more oil = engine ka dhuan - not gaari rawaan
    Its not my thinking. Just a wild guess.

    Enviado desde mi GT-I9500 usando Tapatalk

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    The person who poured it was 'Chand' himself (my first mechanic). I will try to confirm it with some other dip stick before suspecting him of malpractice or incompetence!

    Is it possible that the excess amount (total removed 1.75L) of 5W50 would be a cause of poorer mileage figure, around 8 km/L?

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    check this out
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    "Stand by your glasses steady and drink to your comrade's eyes.
    Here's a toast to the dead already and hurrah for the next to die."

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    that level is a warning to the driver only - the dipstick is provided for accurate measurement.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    that level is a warning to the driver only - the dipstick is provided for accurate measurement.
    What is the exact length of the engine oil dip stick for this model? What are the specs for min-max marks in mm?

    The dipstick I have in the car has around 477 mm length below that plastic head/hook. Is this OK?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marschall View Post
    check this out
    Do you think, my car would be having this feature too?

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    Kool. I like this thread, a lot of knowledge gained regarding MB cars and their maintenance !!! thanks @x2 and @Xulfiqar bhai specially !
    X Auto - For Car Enthusiasts
    http://www.xautoworld.com

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    Just found that my dip stick is to blame for this oil-level confusion. Since the plastic top is broken, it inserts deeper in the oil check duct (since the stopper -- that should stop from further insertion into the tube is broken).
    Attached pictures may help. Though the image of dip stick sent by someone with the same model is a bit unclear but it more or less tells the story.

    A proper dip-stick, from the top of the duct should insert 51.5 cm into the engine, whereas my dip stick inserts 1.5 cm further into the duct (because no stopper is available)! Therefore, the oil level that reads close to MAX, would actually be 1 cm higher than the MIN mark.

    I would need to pour 1L (removed) back in.

    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help with startup maintenancerepair -1658489@Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help with startup maintenancerepair -1658490@Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help with startup maintenancerepair -1658491@Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help with startup maintenancerepair -1658492

    This removes serious blame from 'chand'. However, I have checked the net to find that this vehicle has 5.8L capacity for engine oil but he poured 6L at oil change! I would attribute oil sticking to various parts of the engine to be equal to 0.5L at least (plus the vehicle was lifted from the front during this operation). So I think instead of pouring in exactly 6L, only around 5.2L should have been poured in.

    [This model has 62L petrol tank, 5.8L engine oil capacity and 8.5L coolant capacity.]

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    Just found that my dip stick is to blame for this oil-level confusion. Since the plastic top is broken, it inserts deeper in the oil check duct (since the stopper -- that should stop from further insertion into the tube is broken).
    Attached pictures may help. Though the image of dip stick sent by someone with the same model is a bit unclear but it more or less tells the story.

    A proper dip-stick, from the top of the duct should insert 51.5 cm into the engine, whereas my dip stick inserts 1.5 cm further into the duct (because no stopper is available)! Therefore, the oil level that reads close to MAX, would actually be 1 cm higher than the MIN mark.

    I would need to pour 1L (removed) back in.

    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help with startup maintenancerepair -1658489@Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help with startup maintenancerepair -1658490@Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help with startup maintenancerepair -1658491@Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help with startup maintenancerepair -1658492

    This removes serious blame from 'chand'. However, I have checked the net to find that this vehicle has 5.8L capacity for engine oil but he poured 6L at oil change! I would attribute oil sticking to various parts of the engine to be equal to 0.5L at least (plus the vehicle was lifted from the front during this operation). So I think instead of pouring in exactly 6L, only around 5.2L should have been poured in.

    [This model has 62L petrol tank, 5.8L engine oil capacity and 8.5L coolant capacity.]
    you never mentioned that you were using a broken dipstick. Do also mention how are you testing the level of the ATF.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    you never mentioned that you were using a broken dipstick. Do also mention how are you testing the level of the ATF.
    I had been relying on the mechanic till now and never thought a broken dip-stick would be so dangerous to have!
    For ATF, I do not have a dip-stick. However, the mechanic used one when filling it and I am hoping it is correct.

    By the way, I drove the vehicle today and it drove brilliantly. No hard down-shift experienced in today's driving unlike what I had been reporting earlier. Plus everything else about the vehicle was so great.

    I will buy a new dip-stick as soon as possible, InShaAllah.
    What do you recommend about Transmission oil dip-stick -- should I get one too?

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    the 722.6 dipstick is a service tool only, its extremely long and cannot be left in place in the car like older models
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    @Xulfiqar Sb and other experts: Important advice needed.
    Ever since I changed the hand brake shoes, one of them (driver side one) got adjusted easily but the passenger side one is giving trouble ever since. I noticed feeble friction noises which concerted to screech sounds. They would increase at slow speed. They are periodic (understandably) with the period coinciding with rotation of wheel. After many days, we removed the rotor again to see that the top metallic corner of one of the brake shoe (the rear one -- since there are two in each wheel) was polished as if filed (I will attach a picture soon). Whatever we did (twice or thrice) we could not make the handbrake shoes kept pressed against the back of wheel -- they tend to fall forward from top! In fact if someone do adjust them, they would start producing noise again in few applications of handbrake and 10 - 12 km of driving. Right now, I have put the old ones to see if this was because of the new Trucktec ones but the old ones are squeaking too. In fact the squeaks are so loud, one gets quite sheepish in rush since you do not expect a merc to be producing such sounds!
    What to do?

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