Survey by Qualaroo
+ Reply to Thread
Page 13 of 21 FirstFirst ... 31112131415 ... LastLast
Results 241 to 260 of 420
Like Tree85Likes

Thread: @Xulfiqar Sb: Bought c180 98 model (my 1st Merc) Help with startup maintenance/repair

  1. #1
    x2
    x2 is offline
    PakWheeler Follow
    x2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Islamabad
    Age
    41
    Posts
    484
    Follows
    1
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    9
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default @Xulfiqar Sb: Bought c180 98 model. Need help with maintenance/repair.

    @Xulfiqar Sb:
    I have seen lots of threads and lots of posts and am deeply impressed by your knowledge of vehicles. I am trying to browse through but things are so spread about that it is confusion. Moreover, perhaps every case is different and need specialized help, at least for the first time.

    This Monday, I bought a c180 98, Elegance Model with 93K miles (allegedly) on the odo. In driving for these 3 days I have jotted up a list of my observations, some serious, I believe. I need your expert advice on it. Here is the list of serious observations:

    [Post Edited with problems listed as solved/unsolved. The details of how a problem was solved is spread all over the many pages and posts. Please delve into the thread for details.]

    SOLVED PROBLEMS WITH CAUSES AND REMEDIES:
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1. Vibration in D, Cause: One engine mount was cut, replaced.
    2. Temp gauge does not get to half point, Cause: T-stat valve was jammed, replaced.
    3. Fluids replaced = Engine Oil and Transmission oil.
    4. Vibration in steering at all speeds, Causes: Mountings (changed), warped rotors, machined, balancing and alignment done. New steering shock installed.
    5. Rear Left Window does not close with button on door, Cause: Button faulty, replaced.
    6. Random HVAC blower speed: Ordered HVAC control unit from eBay. Fitted and working fine. No more issue.
    7. Broken Cruise Control: Ordered from eBay. Fitted and working fine.
    8. SRS AIRBAG Warning Light in Dash, Cause: Star scan tool (at Papu ustad, Pindi) told about two crash sensors (one under each front seat) to be faulty (or their connection is faulty). Shop gave a price of Rs.7,000 for 2 but I see that used are cheaply available on eBay. Would order two soon.
    9. Left handbrake shoe friction sound. I fitted new handbrake shoes and thought it needed adjustment. However, it turned out, after 5 tries at it, that the lug nuts on the wheels were of slightly varying length. The longer ones would brush on the handbrake clip that expands the mechanism. Older one was damaged. Got it replaced. Sound started coming after few days. I swapped some lug nuts from other wheels. It is peace ever since!
    10. Intermittent Windows -- Passenger and Driver side windows would not operate after few days of reset in any order. I suspected the rear-left window control module, opened the door cover to find that there is no window control module there! So this must not be the cause.
    Recently, I cleaned all the electric ground points in the vehicle. The issue of intermittent windows had reduced a great deal. More so, because before starting the vehicle, I operate all windows (first point in ignition).
    11. COOLANT VANISHING -- I needed to add 1 L in like 2 weeks (driving 300 miles). The cause was a leaky radiator. In summers the problem increased until I saw coolant drops beneath an idling car. Previous radiator was corroded with use of wrong coolant. Radiator replaced with a good condition exact part (Behr) from a half-cut. Coolant used would definitely be as per spec or MB.

    UNSOLVED PROBLEMS that are being debugged:
    ------------------------------------------------------------
    12. Relay clicking type sound behind key:
    The sound can start anytime but luckily not too often. Usually in peaceful driving it would be calm. Sometimes when I take some action like press brake pedal, turn on indicator, it will start clicking. I can feel the throbbing when I touch the key. Would start and stop itself.
    I have found out that whenever that clicking sound is heard, horn won't blow. Conversely when the horn does not blow, there are chances of those clicking sounds. When the horn blows, there won't be any clicking sound in that drive. Still trying to solicit the cause in a deterministic way.
    13. Sudden Downshift Jerk: Sometimes after driving the vehicle for a long time, like one hour, when slowing down because of mild braking (to a speed for which 1st gear may be needed) the car shifts into 1st gear very hardly.
    Kindly please advise. I am a keeper since I am a busy person. The car I was driving before this is with me for 9 years. For once, I want this car to be in a state that I know how things are. Thank you in anticipation and sorry for trouble.

    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help wi startup maintenancerepair -1636367

    PS: Car is with me for 6 months now, with 99,000 miles on Odo. (21 May, 2016)
    Aamer

  2. #241
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Other
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24,400
    Follows
    131
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    3988 Post(s)
    Tagged
    94 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    4
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by umarkhan1 View Post
    The hot air has its own channel.the evaporator coil wont be effected by hot air


    Sent from my iPhone using PW Forums
    mercedes benz dont use doors to mix air, the heater valve in teh engine room allows hot coolant to exit the core - (heating it up) - the heater is placed after the evaporator.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  3. #242
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Other
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24,400
    Follows
    131
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    3988 Post(s)
    Tagged
    94 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    4
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    A query about performance:

    1. The car seems to start fine from cold starts. After a warm up of 30-60 sec I get it rolling. Driving down the streets, the car is expected to change to 2nd gear around 2000 rpm. However, car begins moving and accelerating fine but nearing where I expect a gear change the car starts ducking (and dying). If I keep the accelerator pressed, it would keep dying and then suddenly like waken up.
    Only happens at cold starts, and always happens.
    Usually it is only the first change from 1st to 2nd and/or 2nd to 3rd gear.
    My thought till now had been that I hadn't sufficiently warmed the engine but I guess, it needs an explanation.

    2. When driving near dividers with window rolled down, I have heard the engine knocking. What causes it and how to correct it? I try to use hi-octane as much as I can.

    3. Since I do not have any other car to compare to, I believe I feel the car lacks power when I need her to accelerate it does not come up as nicely as I would expect (keeping in mind that it is only 1.8L). I feel the car does not have the kick-down feature. How to check if it does or does not.

    Car's mileage is 9.5 km/L. I expect it to be 10.5+ km/L since I drive 16 miles through Islamabad expressway and Kashmir highway to work.

    can you pull out any fuel trim data? sounds like you have vacuum leaks when cold, knock is also caused by that.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  4. #243
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Other
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24,400
    Follows
    131
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    3988 Post(s)
    Tagged
    94 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    4
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    And the coolant is continuously decreased. Like 2L in 15 days! I have added 6L of water by now! Unless I find the reason of it vanishing I do not wish to add the expensive coolant.

    I have failed to find the source of any leakage whatsoever and I am at my wits end as to how to debug without removing the radiator.
    The radiator seems to be fine, after cleaning and tightening the top hose, I never found evidence of leakage. No other pipe leaks. I guess the radiator bottle cap is sealing properly and there is no evidence of leakage from the weep hole!

    Where else could the coolant go and find escape?

    I would appreciate any tip on how to debug.
    not good,

    do a pressure test to find the leak.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  5. #244
    x2
    x2 is offline
    PakWheeler Follow
    x2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Islamabad
    Age
    41
    Posts
    484
    Follows
    1
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    9
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quick question: Are Bremen Radiators good?
    Indus Motors giving for Rs.18,300.

  6. #245
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Other
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24,400
    Follows
    131
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    3988 Post(s)
    Tagged
    94 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    4
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    Quick question: Are Bremen Radiators good?
    Indus Motors giving for Rs.18,300.
    I usually bought nissens, I always made sure I was getting one with metal pipe reinforcements installed in the pipe nipples, The factory valeo one is very nice but gets clogged easily if you dont use coolant (pricey too)

    Im using a nissens in my own W210 - which I installed when I bought the car.


    btw - is your radiator leaking? or is the ATF cooler compromised in it?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  7. #246
    x2
    x2 is offline
    PakWheeler Follow
    x2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Islamabad
    Age
    41
    Posts
    484
    Follows
    1
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    9
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    btw - is your radiator leaking? or is the ATF cooler compromised in it?
    How to know about that? That is, whether the ATF cooler is compromised or not?
    Also can a compromised ATF cooler cause that cold dying before changing gears?

    Do whatever, I have been unable to see any radiator leak! So my guess is this is not a radiator leak. My checking have failed to see any leaking hose or pipe. My checking clears the coolant pump and weep hole too (though my checking is no bench mark).

    Engine oil is still shiny (after 2500 miles) and I do not see or feel any water in there.

    I was determined to go to the mechanic and inquired for radiator prices but changed my mind before leaving. For now, I sort of want to have a definitive clue in hand. If you do not know your stuff, these mechanics can rip your wallet off!

    btw about Valeo radiator, the forums are rich with some 'known' fault in valeo radiators!!! People had been talking about it should be replaced to behr/nissen etc.

  8. #247
    x2
    x2 is offline
    PakWheeler Follow
    x2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Islamabad
    Age
    41
    Posts
    484
    Follows
    1
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    9
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    And although I was very skeptical about someone suggesting me a vacuum leak as possible cause of a problem earlier on, I am now starting to believe that this car needs vacuum to, possibly, do everything!!!!

    Any role this vacuum thing would be playing in this coolant loss thing?

  9. #248
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Other
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24,400
    Follows
    131
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    3988 Post(s)
    Tagged
    94 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    4
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    How to know about that? That is, whether the ATF cooler is compromised or not?
    Also can a compromised ATF cooler cause that cold dying before changing gears?

    Do whatever, I have been unable to see any radiator leak! So my guess is this is not a radiator leak. My checking have failed to see any leaking hose or pipe. My checking clears the coolant pump and weep hole too (though my checking is no bench mark).

    Engine oil is still shiny (after 2500 miles) and I do not see or feel any water in there.

    I was determined to go to the mechanic and inquired for radiator prices but changed my mind before leaving. For now, I sort of want to have a definitive clue in hand. If you do not know your stuff, these mechanics can rip your wallet off!

    btw about Valeo radiator, the forums are rich with some 'known' fault in valeo radiators!!! People had been talking about it should be replaced to behr/nissen etc.
    the factory valeo radiators in W211 and W203 cars had an internal fault where the ATF cooler leaks and coolant ends up in the transmission completely destroying it. Benz did replace a lot of them, and most people choose BEHR or nissens because they are cheaper than the valeo one.

    You will need to build a pressure test rig to find the leak. the rig consists of a junked tank cap in which you drill a hole and attach a pipe nipple to it or some setup to allow air pressure into the system. (you can also make this from a spare radiator pipe)

    you pressurize the system to about 15 psi, it should hold, if its not holding then find the leak - remove the spark plugs and hear for a leak in the cylinders.

    If your ATF cooler is leaking your ATF in the gearbox would be like doodh wala rooh afza colour.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  10. #249
    x2
    x2 is offline
    PakWheeler Follow
    x2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Islamabad
    Age
    41
    Posts
    484
    Follows
    1
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    9
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    If your ATF cooler is leaking your ATF in the gearbox would be like doodh wala rooh afza colour.
    The current coolant is (or rather was, when I bought) green, probably FUCHS green. However, since then I have added like 5L to it. I am guessing that unless I find the leak, instead of topping up with water, I should top it with with a similar green coolant, probably to remain dark green and show prominent visible signs of any leak?

    Should I get the ATF checked? Is this a DIY? Can I get out a little of it and inspect it?

  11. #250
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Other
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24,400
    Follows
    131
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    3988 Post(s)
    Tagged
    94 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    4
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    The current coolant is (or rather was, when I bought) green, probably FUCHS green. However, since then I have added like 5L to it. I am guessing that unless I find the leak, instead of topping up with water, I should top it with with a similar green coolant, probably to remain dark green and show prominent visible signs of any leak?

    Should I get the ATF checked? Is this a DIY? Can I get out a little of it and inspect it?
    get a long tube and a syringe to pull out some ATF - you can also get some ATF from the cooler lines to see the colour.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  12. #251
    x2
    x2 is offline
    PakWheeler Follow
    x2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Islamabad
    Age
    41
    Posts
    484
    Follows
    1
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    9
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    get a long tube and a syringe to pull out some ATF - you can also get some ATF from the cooler lines to see the colour.
    Ok. Thank you. I will see what I can do and report back once done.

  13. #252
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    umarkhan1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sargodha
    Posts
    2,308
    Follows
    6
    Following
    8
    Mentioned
    51 Post(s)
    Tagged
    4 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    mercedes benz dont use doors to mix air, the heater valve in teh engine room allows hot coolant to exit the core - (heating it up) - the heater is placed after the evaporator.
    thats indeed a better idea...i thought it was just like suzukis
    Just Do It Your Self!!!!!

  14. #253
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    umarkhan1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sargodha
    Posts
    2,308
    Follows
    6
    Following
    8
    Mentioned
    51 Post(s)
    Tagged
    4 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    mercedes benz dont use doors to mix air, the heater valve in teh engine room allows hot coolant to exit the core - (heating it up) - the heater is placed after the evaporator.
    sir one question.how the thermostat works.my car has two..one for the driver and other for the passenger.how it works then??
    Just Do It Your Self!!!!!

  15. #254
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Other
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24,400
    Follows
    131
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    3988 Post(s)
    Tagged
    94 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    4
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by umarkhan1 View Post
    sir one question.how the thermostat works.my car has two..one for the driver and other for the passenger.how it works then??
    the heater core is internally split into two parts and has two separate exits - each half is dedicated to the driver or passenger, the valves in the engine room open or close to regulate how much coolant exits from what part of the core to heat up the passenger or driver side.

    The evaporator is one but is externally divided by a wall. It always works at 100%. the wall that I mention separates air channeled to the driver or passenger heater core where its blended for comfort.

    The system has differential built into its logic which is decided by the ambient temperature sensor on the roof.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  16. 09-03-2016, 12:09 AM

    PakWheeler

    Reason
    off topic

  17. #255
    x2
    x2 is offline
    PakWheeler Follow
    x2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Islamabad
    Age
    41
    Posts
    484
    Follows
    1
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    9
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    @Xulfiqar:
    I complained about a behind ignition relay clicking noise. It is there since I purchased this car in Nov last year. I think it is time to find what is amiss there. One reason is the horn has also died (though I believe, it intermittently comes alive, at times). Remember there is an SRS light permanently ON. Here are the facts:
    1. The previous owner claimed that the SRS light turned ON, when he asked his mechanic to fix the horn.
    2. Papu Ustad in Rwp, used star diagnostics to solicit the trouble to two crash sensors, one under each front seat for the SRS issue. (I wonder how would crash sensors under the seat, get affected by a work on steering column!)
    3. I broke the cruise control, ordered one from ebay and got it fitted a month ago. Electrician next to Papu ustad (the electrician who worked sounds crafty but the owner is a looter -- asked for Rs.2,000 for the job (for fitting cruise control level and HVAC control panel) and at the end settled on Rs.1,000. I told the worker about the relay type problem, he said there is a loose nut there, he changed it. That, I guess, was not the problem as nothing improved after that.
    4. That behind ignition clicking sound (repeated relay clicking sound, many times) usually comes when I have recently done something, some action in the car. When that clicking starts, if I put my fingers on the key, I can feel the thumping in the key. Like just started the car, pressed on brake pedal, turned on an indicator, etc and then would remain for 2 - 20 seconds and then settle down. (I have a fear of the steering getting locked while driving!!! Is it possible?
    5. The horn used to blow somehow (I mean not right when I wanted with the press on the panel but after fidgeting a bit around) before that but after that, I found the horn more dead than alive. Today I tried to blow it and no matter where I touch, it would not sound.
    6. I can hear the horn-relay (not the behind ignition one) clicking when I press to blow for horn but no sound. I have not, as of yet, diagnosed whether the horns blow when 12V applied directly to them or not. Not checked the fuse (if any) too.

    My read on this thread:
    W202 - Faulty Horn!! - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

    makes me guess that, somehow, all these are connected, i.e., the three problems -- SRS light, horn failure and clicking behind ignition key. My guesses are:

    1. horn relay.
    2. Clock spring (horn steeringwheel airbag contact ring)
    3. Some loose connection.

    I feel restricted because I do not have proper tools to carry out this job otherwise I believe I am good at debugging. Hadn't really thought at creating a proper tool kit.

    Please guide as to what can I do, to localize where the problem really is, before going to the technician. Thanks.

  18. 10-03-2016, 09:22 AM
    x2

    PakWheeler


  19. #256
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Marschall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Chowha saidan shah
    Age
    31
    Posts
    1,145
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    24 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Who is your current mechanic these days? did u visit Behram or Noman next to Papu's garage?
    "Stand by your glasses steady and drink to your comrade's eyes.
    Here's a toast to the dead already and hurrah for the next to die."

  20. #257
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    umarkhan1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sargodha
    Posts
    2,308
    Follows
    6
    Following
    8
    Mentioned
    51 Post(s)
    Tagged
    4 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    @Xulfiqar:
    I complained about a behind ignition relay clicking noise. It is there since I purchased this car in Nov last year. I think it is time to find what is amiss there. One reason is the horn has also died (though I believe, it intermittently comes alive, at times). Remember there is an SRS light permanently ON. Here are the facts:
    1. The previous owner claimed that the SRS light turned ON, when he asked his mechanic to fix the horn.
    2. Papu Ustad in Rwp, used star diagnostics to solicit the trouble to two crash sensors, one under each front seat for the SRS issue. (I wonder how would crash sensors under the seat, get affected by a work on steering column!)
    3. I broke the cruise control, ordered one from ebay and got it fitted a month ago. Electrician next to Papu ustad (the electrician who worked sounds crafty but the owner is a looter -- asked for Rs.2,000 for the job (for fitting cruise control level and HVAC control panel) and at the end settled on Rs.1,000. I told the worker about the relay type problem, he said there is a loose nut there, he changed it. That, I guess, was not the problem as nothing improved after that.
    4. That behind ignition clicking sound (repeated relay clicking sound, many times) usually comes when I have recently done something, some action in the car. When that clicking starts, if I put my fingers on the key, I can feel the thumping in the key. Like just started the car, pressed on brake pedal, turned on an indicator, etc and then would remain for 2 - 20 seconds and then settle down. (I have a fear of the steering getting locked while driving!!! Is it possible?
    5. The horn used to blow somehow (I mean not right when I wanted with the press on the panel but after fidgeting a bit around) before that but after that, I found the horn more dead than alive. Today I tried to blow it and no matter where I touch, it would not sound.
    6. I can hear the horn-relay (not the behind ignition one) clicking when I press to blow for horn but no sound. I have not, as of yet, diagnosed whether the horns blow when 12V applied directly to them or not. Not checked the fuse (if any) too.

    My read on this thread:
    W202 - Faulty Horn!! - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

    makes me guess that, somehow, all these are connected, i.e., the three problems -- SRS light, horn failure and clicking behind ignition key. My guesses are:

    1. horn relay.
    2. Clock spring (horn steeringwheel airbag contact ring)
    3. Some loose connection.

    I feel restricted because I do not have proper tools to carry out this job otherwise I believe I am good at debugging. Hadn't really thought at creating a proper tool kit.

    Please guide as to what can I do, to localize where the problem really is, before going to the technician. Thanks.
    Check the horn itself


    Sent from my iPhone using PW Forums
    Just Do It Your Self!!!!!

  21. #258
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Xulfiqar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Other
    Age
    38
    Posts
    24,400
    Follows
    131
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    3988 Post(s)
    Tagged
    94 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    4
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    @Xulfiqar:
    I complained about a behind ignition relay clicking noise. It is there since I purchased this car in Nov last year. I think it is time to find what is amiss there. One reason is the horn has also died (though I believe, it intermittently comes alive, at times). Remember there is an SRS light permanently ON. Here are the facts:
    1. The previous owner claimed that the SRS light turned ON, when he asked his mechanic to fix the horn.
    2. Papu Ustad in Rwp, used star diagnostics to solicit the trouble to two crash sensors, one under each front seat for the SRS issue. (I wonder how would crash sensors under the seat, get affected by a work on steering column!)
    3. I broke the cruise control, ordered one from ebay and got it fitted a month ago. Electrician next to Papu ustad (the electrician who worked sounds crafty but the owner is a looter -- asked for Rs.2,000 for the job (for fitting cruise control level and HVAC control panel) and at the end settled on Rs.1,000. I told the worker about the relay type problem, he said there is a loose nut there, he changed it. That, I guess, was not the problem as nothing improved after that.
    4. That behind ignition clicking sound (repeated relay clicking sound, many times) usually comes when I have recently done something, some action in the car. When that clicking starts, if I put my fingers on the key, I can feel the thumping in the key. Like just started the car, pressed on brake pedal, turned on an indicator, etc and then would remain for 2 - 20 seconds and then settle down. (I have a fear of the steering getting locked while driving!!! Is it possible?
    5. The horn used to blow somehow (I mean not right when I wanted with the press on the panel but after fidgeting a bit around) before that but after that, I found the horn more dead than alive. Today I tried to blow it and no matter where I touch, it would not sound.
    6. I can hear the horn-relay (not the behind ignition one) clicking when I press to blow for horn but no sound. I have not, as of yet, diagnosed whether the horns blow when 12V applied directly to them or not. Not checked the fuse (if any) too.

    My read on this thread:
    W202 - Faulty Horn!! - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

    makes me guess that, somehow, all these are connected, i.e., the three problems -- SRS light, horn failure and clicking behind ignition key. My guesses are:

    1. horn relay.
    2. Clock spring (horn steeringwheel airbag contact ring)
    3. Some loose connection.

    I feel restricted because I do not have proper tools to carry out this job otherwise I believe I am good at debugging. Hadn't really thought at creating a proper tool kit.

    Please guide as to what can I do, to localize where the problem really is, before going to the technician. Thanks.
    firstly isolate the horns by testing them directly with a battery connection - they are standard issue horns like any other car you have. - Except for one part - MB install stupidly bad horns on their later cars, buy some good replacements like elephant if yours are bad. Now work backwards - test the wires from the horn connectors to the relay pin.

    if that is clear - test the relay trigger pin by pressing the horn with ignition switch on - does it show voltage? - does the relay have voltage on its contact side?

    if all passes you have good circuit - the problem is internal to the car - the horn/SRS etc is part of the body can bus too - firstly find the X30 connector and check it, (the clicking of the EIS is not a good sign though), the EIS is a gate for the can-bus.

    My first suspect would be the clockspring because you mention its showing SRS fault and also horn stops working at the same time.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

  22. #259
    x2
    x2 is offline
    PakWheeler Follow
    x2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Islamabad
    Age
    41
    Posts
    484
    Follows
    1
    Following
    1
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    9
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marschall View Post
    Who is your current mechanic these days? did u visit Behram or Noman next to Papu's garage?
    The 'latest' is Papu Ustad (Benz Auto Works on Peshawar Road, near the flyover). And I got the electric items fitted by Nouman and Behram is the owner. Behram asks for unreasonable prices and Noman, I believe, is really good craftsman.

    Do you have Noman's contact number, just in case? I want to contact him directly.

  23. #260
    Senior PakWheeler Follow
    Marschall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Chowha saidan shah
    Age
    31
    Posts
    1,145
    Follows
    0
    Following
    0
    Mentioned
    24 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    The 'latest' is Papu Ustad (Benz Auto Works on Peshawar Road, near the flyover). And I got the electric items fitted by Nouman and Behram is the owner. Behram asks for unreasonable prices and Noman, I believe, is really good craftsman.

    Do you have Noman's contact number, just in case? I want to contact him directly.
    Sir i dont have his no. but yes Noman is good But Mr Behram is too shrewd.Did you get the window sorted out??? You can also try my Mechanic he is very good and listens to you unlike Papu ustaad and his crew
    "Stand by your glasses steady and drink to your comrade's eyes.
    Here's a toast to the dead already and hurrah for the next to die."

+ Reply to Thread
Page 13 of 21 FirstFirst ... 31112131415 ... LastLast

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •