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Thread: @Xulfiqar Sb: Bought c180 98 model (my 1st Merc) Help with startup maintenance/repair

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    Default @Xulfiqar Sb: Bought c180 98 model. Need help with maintenance/repair.

    @Xulfiqar Sb:
    I have seen lots of threads and lots of posts and am deeply impressed by your knowledge of vehicles. I am trying to browse through but things are so spread about that it is confusion. Moreover, perhaps every case is different and need specialized help, at least for the first time.

    This Monday, I bought a c180 98, Elegance Model with 93K miles (allegedly) on the odo. In driving for these 3 days I have jotted up a list of my observations, some serious, I believe. I need your expert advice on it. Here is the list of serious observations:

    [Post Edited with problems listed as solved/unsolved. The details of how a problem was solved is spread all over the many pages and posts. Please delve into the thread for details.]

    SOLVED PROBLEMS WITH CAUSES AND REMEDIES:
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1. Vibration in D, Cause: One engine mount was cut, replaced.
    2. Temp gauge does not get to half point, Cause: T-stat valve was jammed, replaced.
    3. Fluids replaced = Engine Oil and Transmission oil.
    4. Vibration in steering at all speeds, Causes: Mountings (changed), warped rotors, machined, balancing and alignment done. New steering shock installed.
    5. Rear Left Window does not close with button on door, Cause: Button faulty, replaced.
    6. Random HVAC blower speed: Ordered HVAC control unit from eBay. Fitted and working fine. No more issue.
    7. Broken Cruise Control: Ordered from eBay. Fitted and working fine.
    8. SRS AIRBAG Warning Light in Dash, Cause: Star scan tool (at Papu ustad, Pindi) told about two crash sensors (one under each front seat) to be faulty (or their connection is faulty). Shop gave a price of Rs.7,000 for 2 but I see that used are cheaply available on eBay. Would order two soon.
    9. Left handbrake shoe friction sound. I fitted new handbrake shoes and thought it needed adjustment. However, it turned out, after 5 tries at it, that the lug nuts on the wheels were of slightly varying length. The longer ones would brush on the handbrake clip that expands the mechanism. Older one was damaged. Got it replaced. Sound started coming after few days. I swapped some lug nuts from other wheels. It is peace ever since!
    10. Intermittent Windows -- Passenger and Driver side windows would not operate after few days of reset in any order. I suspected the rear-left window control module, opened the door cover to find that there is no window control module there! So this must not be the cause.
    Recently, I cleaned all the electric ground points in the vehicle. The issue of intermittent windows had reduced a great deal. More so, because before starting the vehicle, I operate all windows (first point in ignition).
    11. COOLANT VANISHING -- I needed to add 1 L in like 2 weeks (driving 300 miles). The cause was a leaky radiator. In summers the problem increased until I saw coolant drops beneath an idling car. Previous radiator was corroded with use of wrong coolant. Radiator replaced with a good condition exact part (Behr) from a half-cut. Coolant used would definitely be as per spec or MB.

    UNSOLVED PROBLEMS that are being debugged:
    ------------------------------------------------------------
    12. Relay clicking type sound behind key:
    The sound can start anytime but luckily not too often. Usually in peaceful driving it would be calm. Sometimes when I take some action like press brake pedal, turn on indicator, it will start clicking. I can feel the throbbing when I touch the key. Would start and stop itself.
    I have found out that whenever that clicking sound is heard, horn won't blow. Conversely when the horn does not blow, there are chances of those clicking sounds. When the horn blows, there won't be any clicking sound in that drive. Still trying to solicit the cause in a deterministic way.
    13. Sudden Downshift Jerk: Sometimes after driving the vehicle for a long time, like one hour, when slowing down because of mild braking (to a speed for which 1st gear may be needed) the car shifts into 1st gear very hardly.
    Kindly please advise. I am a keeper since I am a busy person. The car I was driving before this is with me for 9 years. For once, I want this car to be in a state that I know how things are. Thank you in anticipation and sorry for trouble.

    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help wi startup maintenancerepair -1636367

    PS: Car is with me for 6 months now, with 99,000 miles on Odo. (21 May, 2016)
    Aamer

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    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help wi startup maintenancerepair -1646855

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    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help wi startup maintenancerepair -1646856

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    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help wi startup maintenancerepair -1646857

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    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help wi startup maintenancerepair -1646858

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    Is it OK to wash the car's under carriage at a local service station?

    Any dos and donts?

    Aamer

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    Is it OK to wash the car's under carriage at a local service station?

    Any dos and donts?

    Aamer
    Depends on how its washed. A simple power wash with water followed by some cleaning with surf/shampoo or whatever they use at the station. After that wash it off with water again and that's it. The oil buildup wont exactly get cleaned with a simple wash like this. You might need to get that off with a degreaser. However Do Not allow them to use petrol/diesel/brake oil to be sprayed on the under carriage. 1) All of these attract a sh*t ton of dust 2) All of these will end up screwing all the rubber components of the suspension.
    My 1985 Mercedes Benz W201 190D (DIY's, Detailing and Photo-shoots)
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    What is a degreaser and how to do that?

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    the parking brake is quite powerful on this car, you just need to adjust it correctly. Its not auto adjusting. To adjust it, raise the car from the rear and remove one wheel bolt, now take a strong light and look into the wheel bolt hole and rotate the wheel till you see a toothed wheel, rotate that till the tire wont turn, back it off 3 teeth - check that the tire turns freely after that, do similar on the other wheel too, your parking brake will be working after this. (easiest adjustment of parking brake compared to any other brand of car) - if you suspect your brake is rusty do not use the parking brake, it will sieze in the applied position and you will hate your life. This is a spike and pocket design lever, the spike pulls in which pushes out a pocket (which pushes the brake shoes), If that spike/pocket is rusty the brake will sieze. (usually seen in rusty cars though)

    The center flex disc is hidden above the center muffler and its shield. To inspect it I use a large swivel type inspection mirror and a light you can also lower the exhaust slightly and undo the shields and rotate them out of the way to see it. If the bearing support rubber is torn. the assembly needs to be changed as it will cause a lot of issues like you have right now.

    I also see the sound dampening material is torn from the transmission area - make a small L shaped bracket to hold it again and use fasteners in the provided holes in the floor structure.

    For cleaning oil stains, use a degreaser like lemon max and a stiff brush. For the other stuff, just a powerwash with water is enough. Do not use oil/diesel/kerosene to clean it as the petroleum products will eat away the wax coat and rubber coat under the car. The petroleum products will also completely destroy all rubber parts.

    For your electrics issue. unless you have a live SDS unit you are going to hit or miss, inspecting and cleaning all grounding points is always a good start. The window modules in the doors can go bad. When the system fails, disconnect another unit and test (this is the hit/miss test) - if the CAN wakes up after a disconnect you found your problem. To make it easier you need to find the X30 connector where all the CAN networks come together. Once you get to it, you need to isolate the bad functioning part, In some cases I have found corrossion and dirty contacts on that connector causing issues like this.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    sorry to hijack ur thread, just wanted to info Xulfiqar sb my centre ac vents werent working ripped the whole dashboard today and found out one of the vaccum actuators which control the vent was not working ,khair long story short we fixed it,also my heater wasnt working he pulled two pins outta the duo valve and said "Sir jee aye jaam si" and now the heater is direct and always on.Ustaad ji saying change the whole duo valve if u want ac and heater to work....todays cost Rs 16500 new duo valve Rs 8k
    "Stand by your glasses steady and drink to your comrade's eyes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marschall View Post
    sorry to hijack ur thread, just wanted to info Xulfiqar sb my centre ac vents werent working ripped the whole dashboard today and found out one of the vaccum actuators which control the vent was not working ,khair long story short we fixed it,also my heater wasnt working he pulled two pins outta the duo valve and said "Sir jee aye jaam si" and now the heater is direct and always on.Ustaad ji saying change the whole duo valve if u want ac and heater to work....todays cost Rs 16500 new duo valve Rs 8k
    depending on the style of valve, they can be rebuilt, if the valve was holding back coolant with it connected and started to flow coolant when disconnected Im suspecting the control unit is faulty rather than the valve.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    depending on the style of valve, they can be rebuilt, if the valve was holding back coolant with it connected and started to flow coolant when disconnected Im suspecting the control unit is faulty rather than the valve.
    ok so these valves are only used for heating rite??? not aircon
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    Quote Originally Posted by devils_smile View Post
    Depends on how its washed. A simple power wash with water followed by some cleaning with surf/shampoo or whatever they use at the station. After that wash it off with water again and that's it. The oil buildup wont exactly get cleaned with a simple wash like this. You might need to get that off with a degreaser. However Do Not allow them to use petrol/diesel/brake oil to be sprayed on the under carriage. 1) All of these attract a sh*t ton of dust 2) All of these will end up screwing all the rubber components of the suspension.
    Sorry to cut in, but if one gets their car serviced and the under-carriage is sprayed with diesal+oil, what should one do now to fix the damage done?

    I had asked a mechanic why I can hear squeaking noises from the suspension as it goes over bumps and he told me its because I don't get it serviced enough and it needs to be oiled from below. I had asked him this because I had recently got the suspension overhauled etc but it till squeaked

    Please let me know.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    What is a degreaser and how to do that?
    Since your in Islamabad, you can get the Astonish Engine Degreaser in Al-Fateh (Centaurus). It can be found in the car auto care section shelves and costs 190 per bottle. This is a strong degreaser and will cut through all types of accumulated dirt/grime/grease build up. A google search will tell you how to use one or you can visit the Car Care and Detailing thread here on pakwheels.
    My 1985 Mercedes Benz W201 190D (DIY's, Detailing and Photo-shoots)
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marschall View Post
    ok so these valves are only used for heating rite??? not aircon
    Yes - these are for cabin heat, but in reality they will also contribute to the cabin temperature setting, e.g. if you set the temperature to a 22C or the wheel at mix, the system will mix A/C and heat to get the desired setting. If your heater valve is stuck open, the A/C wont blow cold air as the heater is far more powerful than the A/C.
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    Quote Originally Posted by accord786 View Post
    Sorry to cut in, but if one gets their car serviced and the under-carriage is sprayed with diesal+oil, what should one do now to fix the damage done?

    I had asked a mechanic why I can hear squeaking noises from the suspension as it goes over bumps and he told me its because I don't get it serviced enough and it needs to be oiled from below. I had asked him this because I had recently got the suspension overhauled etc but it till squeaked

    Please let me know.

    Thanks
    sounds like your mechanic thinks that you own a tractor. And for the squeaking noises on new parts - that sounds like they were installed and tightened with the wheel hanging down. This puts stresses on the bushings and they tear apart quick, Uptil the time they are not torn such wrong installed bushings act like torsion springs and do not allow movement of the wheel up and down smoothly.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Thank you @Xulfiqar. I will follow all your steps soon.
    I am working at home today on it with my driver (he is a mechanic, thought not of mercedes).
    We have removed all the four rotor discs. Now will take to some machinist and get them checked for warping.
    We had too much problem thinking of how to get the car up on bricks/stands. So instead we have removed rotors and put back the tires and worked one wheel side at a time.
    The mechanic says the handbrake shoes are 'khatam'. I have not seen them yet myself though as he is working on the last wheel. I will see in a while. Might get new today.

    Will any machinist/kharadiya do the job or is their someone special for the job in Pindi/Isb?

    The rotors are uneven diameterically (felt on finger) but I guess this wont cause vibration since brake shoes would adjust to these imperfections. We would need to find circumferencial unevenness.

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    Thank you @Xulfiqar. I will follow all your steps soon.
    I am working at home today on it with my driver (he is a mechanic, thought not of mercedes).
    We have removed all the four rotor discs. Now will take to some machinist and get them checked for warping.
    We had too much problem thinking of how to get the car up on bricks/stands. So instead we have removed rotors and put back the tires and worked one wheel side at a time.
    The mechanic says the handbrake shoes are 'khatam'. I have not seen them yet myself though as he is working on the last wheel. I will see in a while. Might get new today.

    Will any machinist/kharadiya do the job or is their someone special for the job in Pindi/Isb?

    The rotors are uneven diameterically (felt on finger) but I guess this wont cause vibration since brake shoes would adjust to these imperfections. We would need to find circumferencial unevenness.
    The parking brake shoes are pretty thin material on all mercedes as they are only used when you engage them when - If your mechanic is thinking they should be 1/4 inch thick because other cars are like that then hes mistaken. The service brake for rear wheels (foot pedal beside accelerator) are the small brake pads in the caliper - they are thicker if you notice.

    once you install the disc back, adjust the parking brake and test, you will be quite surprised that the parking brake will work perfectly. (make sure to clean all rust spots on the shoes and lubricate the spike/pocket lever on the lower side of the assembly with silicone grease or non-melt HD brake grease).

    Be careful when removing the shoes, They will come out easily with simple hand tools but you may need to make a special tool to install the holding springs back - I made one with an old bolt and a slit cut into its end.


    As a quick and dirty fix - take a wire wheel brush to the disc surface and remove all the brake pad buildup (usual cause of wobbling discs)
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    That day, we took the 4 disc rotors to Haji Akbar and sons kharadiya in Mitho Khan ahata (Saddar). He machined them for Rs.2,400. We bought new handbrake shoes (Trucktec, Germany) and associated springs and nuts from Zeeshan Autos. They costed Rs.2,400 too! Indus Autos had some other brand for Rs.1,900, which Zeeshan Autos guys said was Chinese.

    Putting them back was a nightmare (as told) for the mechanic since this was the first mercedes he was doing. Nonetheless he took around an hour to put the first one in. Second was easier. Though in putting that in, he discovered that one side was showing no pull/release when handbrake was applied/release. This was perhaps the reason why a pair of handbrake shoes looked like new and the other completely worn out! (See picture). He fixed that.

    Finally, the work paid off and handbrake now feels good.

    We asked for Silicone Grease but could not find it from anywhere so could not service the calipers of the brakes. I will check from some good Lube shops later.

    The mechanic did not have proper tools to lower the exhaust center muffler so inspection of the center bearing was left behind.

    While working underneath in the front section of the car, the mechanic noticed a leak (which none of the two other mechanics who had worked on my car noticed or pointed out) under the engine, allegedly from some sensor washer (as the mechanic put it). I attach picture. The leak is not very severe since there was very little oil effect on the under engine shield.
    @Xulfiqar Sb, please let me know how does it look like, why was it caused, is it severe, if it can be a DIY and if so, what should we buy (in parts) before getting it done. I guess we will loose oil in doing so, so I have pended it until next oil change, some 3000 miles later, IA.

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    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help with startup maintenancerepair -1649276

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