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Thread: @Xulfiqar Sb: Bought c180 98 model (my 1st Merc) Help with startup maintenance/repair

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    Default @Xulfiqar Sb: Bought c180 98 model. Need help with maintenance/repair.

    @Xulfiqar Sb:
    I have seen lots of threads and lots of posts and am deeply impressed by your knowledge of vehicles. I am trying to browse through but things are so spread about that it is confusion. Moreover, perhaps every case is different and need specialized help, at least for the first time.

    This Monday, I bought a c180 98, Elegance Model with 93K miles (allegedly) on the odo. In driving for these 3 days I have jotted up a list of my observations, some serious, I believe. I need your expert advice on it. Here is the list of serious observations:

    [Post Edited with problems listed as solved/unsolved. The details of how a problem was solved is spread all over the many pages and posts. Please delve into the thread for details.]

    SOLVED PROBLEMS WITH CAUSES AND REMEDIES:
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1. Vibration in D, Cause: One engine mount was cut, replaced.
    2. Temp gauge does not get to half point, Cause: T-stat valve was jammed, replaced.
    3. Fluids replaced = Engine Oil and Transmission oil.
    4. Vibration in steering at all speeds, Causes: Mountings (changed), warped rotors, machined, balancing and alignment done. New steering shock installed.
    5. Rear Left Window does not close with button on door, Cause: Button faulty, replaced.
    6. Random HVAC blower speed: Ordered HVAC control unit from eBay. Fitted and working fine. No more issue.
    7. Broken Cruise Control: Ordered from eBay. Fitted and working fine.
    8. SRS AIRBAG Warning Light in Dash, Cause: Star scan tool (at Papu ustad, Pindi) told about two crash sensors (one under each front seat) to be faulty (or their connection is faulty). Shop gave a price of Rs.7,000 for 2 but I see that used are cheaply available on eBay. Would order two soon.
    9. Left handbrake shoe friction sound. I fitted new handbrake shoes and thought it needed adjustment. However, it turned out, after 5 tries at it, that the lug nuts on the wheels were of slightly varying length. The longer ones would brush on the handbrake clip that expands the mechanism. Older one was damaged. Got it replaced. Sound started coming after few days. I swapped some lug nuts from other wheels. It is peace ever since!
    10. Intermittent Windows -- Passenger and Driver side windows would not operate after few days of reset in any order. I suspected the rear-left window control module, opened the door cover to find that there is no window control module there! So this must not be the cause.
    Recently, I cleaned all the electric ground points in the vehicle. The issue of intermittent windows had reduced a great deal. More so, because before starting the vehicle, I operate all windows (first point in ignition).
    11. COOLANT VANISHING -- I needed to add 1 L in like 2 weeks (driving 300 miles). The cause was a leaky radiator. In summers the problem increased until I saw coolant drops beneath an idling car. Previous radiator was corroded with use of wrong coolant. Radiator replaced with a good condition exact part (Behr) from a half-cut. Coolant used would definitely be as per spec or MB.

    UNSOLVED PROBLEMS that are being debugged:
    ------------------------------------------------------------
    12. Relay clicking type sound behind key:
    The sound can start anytime but luckily not too often. Usually in peaceful driving it would be calm. Sometimes when I take some action like press brake pedal, turn on indicator, it will start clicking. I can feel the throbbing when I touch the key. Would start and stop itself.
    I have found out that whenever that clicking sound is heard, horn won't blow. Conversely when the horn does not blow, there are chances of those clicking sounds. When the horn blows, there won't be any clicking sound in that drive. Still trying to solicit the cause in a deterministic way.
    13. Sudden Downshift Jerk: Sometimes after driving the vehicle for a long time, like one hour, when slowing down because of mild braking (to a speed for which 1st gear may be needed) the car shifts into 1st gear very hardly.
    Kindly please advise. I am a keeper since I am a busy person. The car I was driving before this is with me for 9 years. For once, I want this car to be in a state that I know how things are. Thank you in anticipation and sorry for trouble.

    @Xulfiqar Sb Bought c180 98 model my 1st Merc Help wi startup maintenancerepair -1636367

    PS: Car is with me for 6 months now, with 99,000 miles on Odo. (21 May, 2016)
    Aamer

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marschall View Post
    i bought a chrome key from ebay with the ignition switch of w202 for $50 ............its on its way. Btw which shocks did u buy i have been quoted 18k for front shocks SACHS
    Would you share the link or of similar products? $50 looks like a bit too cheap as compared to the search results I got for a key and the ignition switch!

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    So while we wait for the HVAC to arrive and I am able to get at the car electronics, let us deal with a new issue!

    At cold starts (like the first in the day), the car takes a pretty long 'self' or would take two. Started as we got to the coldest part of the year (though it is not as cold as it used to be). I would have been fine with it (though my Honda City starts immediately) but when I exit the car after it has started and stand by it (with the car doors) I can smell pure gasoline. I have failed to see any liquid leaking underneath the car.

    Since I want to check it as a DIY what I should look , where to look for and how to do it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    So while we wait for the HVAC to arrive and I am able to get at the car electronics, let us deal with a new issue!

    At cold starts (like the first in the day), the car takes a pretty long 'self' or would take two. Started as we got to the coldest part of the year (though it is not as cold as it used to be). I would have been fine with it (though my Honda City starts immediately) but when I exit the car after it has started and stand by it (with the car doors) I can smell pure gasoline. I have failed to see any liquid leaking underneath the car.

    Since I want to check it as a DIY what I should look , where to look for and how to do it?
    long startup time in the morning is usually a bad fuel filter or pump, test the fuel pressure at the engine and check the holding pressure too.

    The engine runs very very rich when cold - this is done to "start or ignite" the catalytic converter in the exhaust. Once the system warms up and oxygen sensors start to react the ECU will immediately cut that excess fuel and go into closed loop.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    Would you share the link or of similar products? $50 looks like a bit too cheap as compared to the search results I got for a key and the ignition switch!
    a used EIS and key are not too expensive, the problem is that they need to be virignized and coded to your car (hoping that the used parts work) - thats where the expensive bit starts.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    it is a 'workshop' in the 'local' sense!
    If I owned this car I would find better equipped shops - a press, workbench, pit etc are part of a good shop. Did this shop tighten the control arm with the wheel at drive level or did they tighten it with the system hanging down?
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    If I owned this car I would find better equipped shops - a press, workbench, pit etc are part of a good shop. Did this shop tighten the control arm with the wheel at drive level or did they tighten it with the system hanging down?
    I doubt they would have done it at drive level because there was no 'pit'! You are right. Proper equipment is the first requirement of a proper shop -- the reason I had taken my Honda City to the dealership. However, for this car, I do not think I afford Shahnawaz. I am open to suggestions for good workshops but the two I have been to, lack pits and would do most of the work on flat surfaces.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    long startup time in the morning is usually a bad fuel filter or pump, test the fuel pressure at the engine and check the holding pressure too.

    The engine runs very very rich when cold - this is done to "start or ignite" the catalytic converter in the exhaust. Once the system warms up and oxygen sensors start to react the ECU will immediately cut that excess fuel and go into closed loop.
    Fuel filter was changed when I bought the car. Pump was not. How to test fuel pressure at the engine and the holding pressure at home?

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    I doubt they would have done it at drive level because there was no 'pit'! You are right. Proper equipment is the first requirement of a proper shop -- the reason I had taken my Honda City to the dealership. However, for this car, I do not think I afford Shahnawaz. I am open to suggestions for good workshops but the two I have been to, lack pits and would do most of the work on flat surfaces.

    tightening the control arm bolts can be done without lift or pit, you place a jack under the hub/spindle/control arm and start jacking the unit, the whole thing will rise up - once the car starts to lift off the supporting jackstands - it means the wheel is at drive level then you tighten the bolts.

    Find a shop that at least makes an effort for such work.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    I cannot say they did it or whether they did not because I did not know how it should be done and I was not looking for it. Will add to my future reference though. When installing things back, lots of jacking was involved too. It is quite possible they actually took care of it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    Fuel filter was changed when I bought the car. Pump was not. How to test fuel pressure at the engine and the holding pressure at home?
    you will need a fuel pressure tester for this.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    The handbrake shoes in their most relaxed position (using the adjuster wheel) still brush the wheels and they are not completely free to rotate. What to do?

    [Addendum: Problem solved. I think the tools I used weren't adequate for the job. Moreover, I guess the rear wheels wouldn't feel as free as front wheels because rear wheels drive and have more to hold on.)

  13. 13-01-2016, 09:16 AM

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  14. 13-01-2016, 12:23 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by x2 View Post
    The handbrake shoes in their most relaxed position (using the adjuster wheel) still brush the wheels and they are not completely free to rotate. What to do?

    [Addendum: Problem solved. I think the tools I used weren't adequate for the job. Moreover, I guess the rear wheels wouldn't feel as free as front wheels because rear wheels drive and have more to hold on.)
    your addendum is true as you have to overcome the friction of the differential when rotating the wheel, to adjust it correctly adjust the star wheel till the disc doesnt rotate anymore then loosen it 2 teeth - your brakes should be working perfect after this.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    @x2 sir any update on the window issue.......
    "Stand by your glasses steady and drink to your comrade's eyes.
    Here's a toast to the dead already and hurrah for the next to die."

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    How to open car's boot? Did not use the car for 10 days and now it is lifeless. The metal key opens the driver's door and I can open the engine hood but how to get to boot? Probably there is something in the car that consistently drains the battery -- maybe the same thing that drives the CANBus down!

    I think this should work?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysJ5TODL2Nc

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marschall View Post
    @x2 sir any update on the window issue.......
    @Marschall, I wanted to have the problem back before working on debugging it. My idea was to work at the fuse box. I can disconnect one fuse at a time to see what brings the windows back. This is because I lack right tools to get to the CAN Bus connector etc. In fact I found some time today and went to do exactly this but faced a lifeless car!

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    doesnt the metal key work in the boot lock and open it too?

    otherwise you can connect a spare battery across the red terminal under the hood and ground it and the battery will provide power so that you can open the boot
    If everything is coming your way, you're in the wrong lane!

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    @x2 if the boot is not opening spray wd 40 in the lock ,insert the key bring it to 10 o clock position and start with quick vibrations i.e jimmy the lock it will open
    "Stand by your glasses steady and drink to your comrade's eyes.
    Here's a toast to the dead already and hurrah for the next to die."

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    Quote Originally Posted by arzaam.bhatti View Post
    doesnt the metal key work in the boot lock and open it too?

    otherwise you can connect a spare battery across the red terminal under the hood and ground it and the battery will provide power so that you can open the boot
    The metal key does not seem to turn in the boot lock. I tried the WD40 and some effort but no luck -- the key won't turn. The lock slides inside but key does not turn.
    Will try the spare battery connection from the hood to power the system and open the lock the next time I get some time and a milder weather! Once done with this, I need to check for what drains the battery.
    This and such videos tell how:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5FJDgcdii8
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtJMHSY7hso

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    Metal (spare, wallet) key for toyota corolla does not work for boot lock. It operates for door locks only. May b same scenario
    "THERE IS STILL SO MANY HAPPINESS IN THE WORLD"

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    youll get to the battery easily, on some mercedes if someone has lost the metal key and the battery is flat they cant even get in to do anything, in such situations you have to remove undersheilds from the car find the start motor and take a 12V source and spark it at the live connection of the starter motor once which can be reached from underneath the car and the car will gain sufficient electricity to to unlock,

    thankfully such is not the case with you, can easily add power using that terminal across the battery thats what it for, apart from this there are still many many innovative and cubersome ways to get to the boot as well.
    If everything is coming your way, you're in the wrong lane!

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