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Thread: Toyota Fielder Engine Oil (LIQUI MOLY)

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    Cool Toyota Fielder Engine Oil (LIQUI MOLY)

    AoA All,
    I went to the Liqui Moly outlet at I-8 Markaz, Islamabad & i met with an expert Mr Muhammad Anwar (0322 6001841). An expert, & he advised me to use 5W-30 oil for my fielder (it had done 46000 km on its odo meter). First he used "Engine Flush Plus" in the old oil for 10 minutes, then flushed the oil. Added some new 5W-30 Liqui Moly and then added "CERATEC" with more engine oil till the engine oil dip stick showed almost full.
    WOW.....the engine sound ...was no more ..only wheels running on the road.....it was all smooth.....
    He had asked me to get the filter changed (Guard filter after 7-8000 km), but change the engine oil after 10,000 km minimum or after 1 year which ever is first. The ceratec time is 50,000 km.........

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    Quote Originally Posted by nom125 View Post
    AOA bro just out of curiosity are fleece filters available for pdm and jdm cars locally(easily) or are they special order
    No they are not, the only fine media filter on japanese cars are installed at the factory as "first filters" these have a dense matrix type cellulose media to trap more particles as the new engines run, They are not available as spare parts.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    No they are not, the only fine media filter on japanese cars are installed at the factory as "first filters" these have a dense matrix type cellulose media to trap more particles as the new engines run, They are not available as spare parts.
    Such a shame, but if they were made available then that would be very good option

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    follow oil change interval recommended by the manufacturer of the engine, not the blender of the oil. The biggest reason is the manufacturer knows what sort of oil filtration system is there and how hard is the engine on the oil.
    This Is What No One Thinks And Just Depends On Oil Experts From Brand Selling With Nice Decent personality....!!

    No One Believes TOYOTA As They SPEAK ****
    TOYOTA Sprinter 86- AE80 DOHC 20v'D TOYOTA Corolla 98- AE101 4AFE 16v

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    No they are not, the only fine media filter on japanese cars are installed at the factory as "first filters" these have a dense matrix type cellulose media to trap more particles as the new engines run, They are not available as spare parts.
    How are MANN filters?
    https://www.facebook.com/OsamaAbbasPhotography

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    @Xulfiqar bhai
    Which engine oil should I use for my e220 CDI 2001??
    And is the ceratec effective??
    "..I am as bad as the worst, but, thank God, I am as good as the best..."
    -Walt Whitman

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    Quote Originally Posted by SER_GTR View Post
    This Is What No One Thinks And Just Depends On Oil Experts From Brand Selling With Nice Decent personality....!!

    No One Believes TOYOTA As They SPEAK ****
    Toyota? What is toyota?

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    Cera Tec is not advised for wet clutch

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    Quote Originally Posted by StrikerX View Post
    Toyota? What is toyota?
    toyota oils (specially petron 20/50) are like "energy drinks". People use them without knowing that their cars not even need them infact.
    No Guts, No Glory.

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    LM packaging is colorful but they cost almost double compare to ZIC synthetic.
    All life is an experiment. The more experiments you make the better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by syncview View Post
    How are MANN filters?
    zabardast in its own retail package and fantastic in OE package.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kiki091 View Post
    @Xulfiqar bhai
    Which engine oil should I use for my e220 CDI 2001??
    And is the ceratec effective??
    Your engine takes any of the MB 229.3 or 229.5 diesel oils if you are looking for following the dashboard flexible service system - make sure to use a fleece filter with those oils.

    Otherwise any other diesel rated oil also works and if using a regular mineral one with paper filter then dont follow the dashboard, change it as required, usually good for 8000 kms at least.

    Your engine was running too cold, make sure that is corrected first otherwise the ECU will overfuel the engine trying to warm it up again and again.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    zabardast in its own retail package and fantastic in OE package.



    Your engine takes any of the MB 229.3 or 229.5 diesel oils if you are looking for following the dashboard flexible service system - make sure to use a fleece filter with those oils.

    Otherwise any other diesel rated oil also works.

    Your engine was running too cold, make sure that is corrected first otherwise the ECU will overfuel the engine trying to warm it up again and again.
    @Xulfiqar bhai

    at the moment the car's turbo is not working, its in limp mode. After sorting this I will get the thermostat replaced. Should I go for Ceretec ?? my engines gives out blueish/white smoke for a little while at cold start up??
    "..I am as bad as the worst, but, thank God, I am as good as the best..."
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiki091 View Post
    @Xulfiqar bhai

    at the moment the car's turbo is not working, its in limp mode. After sorting this I will get the thermostat replaced. Should I go for Ceretec ?? my engines gives out blueish/white smoke for a little while at cold start up??
    the blue smoke is oil from the turbo leaking into the exhaust. If a diesel engine actually burns engine oil it blows it as black smoke.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the blue smoke is oil from the turbo leaking into the exhaust. If a diesel engine actually burns engine oil it blows it as black smoke.
    Whats the solution?? How can the leakeage be checked??
    Is it the whole turbo unit at fault or some kind of a seal ??
    Kindly help sir..

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    Remove the exhaust downpipe and check for oil, also check for oil on the turbo outlet (boost side) - if its flooded with liquid oil your turbo seals are shot, it is not serviceable in a general auto workshop and requires renewal with a new or rebuilt part.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Remove the exhaust downpipe and check for oil, also check for oil on the turbo outlet (boost side) - if its flooded with liquid oil your turbo seals are shot, it is not serviceable in a general auto workshop and requires renewal with a new or rebuilt part.
    @Xulfiqar bhai, meaning that the whole turbo unit needs replacement??..
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiki091 View Post
    @Xulfiqar bhai, meaning that the whole turbo unit needs replacement??..
    Yes - when a turbo goes bad, it needs replacement, trying to rebuild it without precision tools or a balancing apparatus is playing with doom, Its a precision machined item that spins at mind boggling rpm - specially VNT ones.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Yes - when a turbo goes bad, it needs replacement, trying to rebuild it without precision tools or a balancing apparatus is playing with doom, Its a precision machined item that spins at mind boggling rpm - specially VNT ones.
    A new turbo costs a fortune. Damn, I already have spent a lot on this car so far. Got it checked on STAR, it gave the error for the inlet shut off motor.
    "..I am as bad as the worst, but, thank God, I am as good as the best..."
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiki091 View Post
    A new turbo costs a fortune. Damn, I already have spent a lot on this car so far. Got it checked on STAR, it gave the error for the inlet shut off motor.

    You can get a rebuilt one easily too - lots of rebuilders in EU. anyway - the inlet shut off motor fault is the intake manifold flaps are stuck. Its a finicky and very dirty repair. Lots of kerosene oil required. This can be quite reduced if you use proper synthetic oil or a low sPash oil.

    For the turbo, drive the car and when it gets really bad - as in oil consumption going out of control or noise then replace the turbo.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    You can get a rebuilt one easily too - lots of rebuilders in EU. anyway - the inlet shut off motor fault is the intake manifold flaps are stuck. Its a finicky and very dirty repair. Lots of kerosene oil required. This can be quite reduced if you use proper synthetic oil or a low sPash oil.

    For the turbo, drive the car and when it gets really bad - as in oil consumption going out of control or noise then replace the turbo.
    Thanks a lot bhai. I really am worried a lot about it.
    "..I am as bad as the worst, but, thank God, I am as good as the best..."
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