In February 2006 i went for a Pakistan Tour from Karachi to Khunjerab by road :D.
Spent few weeks in Lahore, n after enjoying Basant Festival which was held on 12th March left for Pindi on 13th March.
Spent few days in Pindi n then reached Tarbela.
During my stay at Tarbela on 29th Match left for Khunjerab Trip n on 6th April reached back to Tarbela.
These are the pics from my Khunjerab Pass Road Trip.
(all pics r reduced in size & quality)
unfortunately lost a huge amount of pics of that tour in a computer crash
Left Karachi on 17th of Feburary 2006.
Reached back on 28th of April 2006.
It was a 71 days long trip.
Total distance travelled=over 6000 Miles/ over 10,000 Kms
Karakoram Details :D
KARAKORAM HIGHWAY : Also known as the "8th wonder" of the world, this grand highway connects Pakistan to China, twisting through the three mighty ranges of the world, the Karakorams, the Himalayas & the Pamirs - & follows the ancient Silk Route along the Indus, Gilgit & Hunza Rivers up the Chinese border at the Khunjerab Pass where it concludes in the Taklamakan Desert after winding through the Pamirs & Kashgar districts.
For much of the 1284 kms, the KKH crosses a high altitude desert with less than 04 inch rainfall per year. Passing through stupendous gorges, the road cuts along shelves on the cliff faces as much as 500 M above the river. The highway is an incredible feast of modern engineering & an enduring monument to the 810 Pakistanis & 82 Chinese who died forcing a road through what has a reasonable claim to be the world's most difficult & unstable terrain.
The Karakorums & Himalayas began to form some 55 million years ago when the indian subcontinent drifted northwards & collided with the Asian land mass. India is still trundling northwards at the geologically reckless rate of 05 cm a year, pushing the mountains up by 07 mm (1/4 of an inch) per year. The KKH runs through the middle of this collision belt where there is an average of one Earth Quake every 03 minutes. The Indus River separates the Himalayas from the Karakorams and the KKH hugs the banks of the Indus for 310 Kms on its journey North. It winds round foot of Nanga Parbat 8125 M, the 09th highest in the world & the last in the Himalayan Range & Rakaposhi 7788 M near Nilt in Hunza.
It leaves the Indus & cuts through the Karakoram Range, with 12 out of the world's 30 highest mountains. At 4733 meters, the Khunjerab Pass is the highest paved border crossing on a surfaced road in the world. The highway was a joint Pakistan-China project. Completed in 1978, it took 20 years to build and employed 15000 Pakistanis & 30,000 Chinese. The Pakistanis concentrated on the road & the Chinese on the bridges.
The glaciers, brittle rock structures, strong winds, extremes of temperatures from 48°C/118°F in summers to -30°C/-22°F in winters and the seismic activity all combined to make the construction and today the maintenance of the highway a continual battle. The Pakistani army, today, has deployed 1000 soldiers to keep the road open.
THAKOT BRIDGE : The first evidence of Chinese influence on the KKH is Thakot Bridge, 123 kilometers and about two and a half hours from Abbotabad. Like other bridges on the KKH, it is a graceful arch of white cement, its balustrade decorated with carved lions and lanterns and its side walls with pastel butterflies and flowers. For the next 310 kilometers the highway follows the Indus. The Alai Valley, east of Thakot, is reached on a spectacular road that rises over 1000 feet to give bird’s eye views back down to the Indus.
BESHAM : is a major village cut into the hillside above the Indus along the Karakoram Highway. Half way between Islamabad and Gilgit, Besham has become a hub of travellers due to its strategic cross-roads joining the Swat, Gilgit and Hazara divisions. Though it is mainly populated with the upright Kohistanis, one finds a blend of faces from various parts of the Northern Country.
CHILAS : is a major town on the upper course of the Indus & a gateway to Gilgit, Hunza, Skardu, Nanga Parbat & Kaghan Valleys. It's ancient name was "Silvata", a Sunsikrit word which meant Rock or Stone. The name went in vogue because of the 06th & 08th centuries carvings & paintings on the nearby boulders at the banks of the Indus.
GILGIT : is the Capital of Northern Pakistan and a thriving frontier town that has expanded rapidly to include over 40,000 inhabitants since the Karakoram Highway was opened in 1978. It sits in a wide irrigated bowl 1500 meters above sea level at the Eastern end of the Gilgit Valley. The quaint little town of Gilgit has a cluster of interesting places in it short radius, including a beautiful rock carving of Buddha, a victory monument of Taj Mughal, built 700 years ago and the longest suspension bridge in Asia ( 600 ft long ) The favorite sport in Gilgit is Polo, which the locals claim originated here. It is a more rugged style than the sedate variety known in the plains. The polo tournament held in the 1st two weeks of November is a festive occasion and attracts a large number of spectators.
KARGAH : is famous for its huge rock carving of Lord Buddha. This sculpture was carved in seventh century. A monastery, 03 stupas and Gilgit manuscripts were also found in the vicinity between 1931-39. They are now housed in London, Delhi, Rome and Karachi. The interesting legend behind this sculpture narrates - the villagers asked a passing saint to help them get rid of a man- eater ogress called Yakhshini who lived at Kargah. The saint succeeded in pinning her to the rock and declared she won,t bother them for as long as he was alive, however, if they buried him at the foot of the rock, she would never be free. So the villagers killed the saint and buried him below the rock. The Yakhshini is still slave and villagers are now safe.
GILGIT BAZAAR : is famous for its handicrafts such as woolen gowns known as chughas, waist coats, shoes, musical instruments, silver jewelry, caps, woolen rugs and embroideries. The Gilgit town has also become a major dry port for trade between Pakistan and China through Khunjerab Pass. Due to this dramatic reform one can easily purchase China wares, paintings, silk clothes, glass and various other Chinese products of excellent quality. Gilgit town also house the Asia's longest suspension bridge (600 ft long 6 ft wide).
NALTAR : An area of alpine meadows and forests 3000 meters above sea level and surrounded by snow-capped mountains, is the loveliest full-day outing from Gilgit. It is 43 kilometers – about two hours drive from Gilgit. Hidden in the mountains, up a dramatic barren gorge 19 kilometers long, Naltar valley is surprisingly green and lush, and heavily wooded with pine, spruce, birch, rowan and juniper. Some quirk in the climatic conditions gives Naltar about 410 millimeters or 16 inches of rainfall a year, more than three times that of Gilgit.
It is the perfect base for gentle walks through the forest, or you can follow the jeep track up to Naltar Lake, where the fishing is excellent. Naltar is also the starting point for more energetic treks across the passes about 4,600 meters or 15,100 ft. This beautiful meadow also has two ski-lifts operated by Pakistan Army & Air Force and ski courses are conducted from December to March. There are several summer nomadic settlements near Naltar birch poles covered with mud and juniper branches; some are round like a tepree, others oblong with a ridge pole. The Gujars also collect birch bark which is used as wrapping paper. Butter is wrapped in the bark and stored in holes in the ground.
HUNZA : The ultimate manifestation of mountain grandeur, the Legendary Hunza - whose very name is overwhelming known for its towering snow covered peaks, creeping glaciers, fragrant apricot orchards & the longevity of its people. The little State of Hunza contains more summits of over 20,000 ft than there are of over 10,000 ft in the entire Alps.
This magical land of contrasting geology abounds in glaciers too, including the 58 Km (world's 5th longest ) Batura Glacier. The Nubra, Braldu, Hushe and Saltoro Rivers are born in the Karakoram glacial vastness: the Shayok River encircles the entire flanks of the range: but only the Hunza river literally cuts through the width of the Karakoram Range. Hunza's extreme isolation thus imposed by the unbelievably steep gorges of the Karakoram, rise to a long standing, wholly indigenous & pure diet consisting almost entirely of apricots, wheat and "Hunza Water", a locally brewed wine, & hence the long living inhabitants.
Until 1974, Hunza remained a semi - autonomous princely state presided over by a benevolent "MIR" who personally held a daily court & the subjects paid taxes in goods rather than money. Nestled under the shadows of Rakaposhi 7788 m, perches its capital Karimabad - guarded with centuries old sentinel of Altit & Baltit. Our approach to Hunza is by jeep on the Karakoram Highway, a thin ribbon of pavement carved into the walls of the stupendous Karakoram. This road completed in 1978 , now links the ancient trails of the Silk Route from Gilgit to Kashgar.
Hunza's 35000 inhabitants have been ruled by the same family since the 11th century. A legend relates that the Hunzakuts, (as the people of Hunza are known) are the descendants of the 05 lost soldiers of the Alexander's Army. Brushuski, an aboriginal language is spoken in the central Hunza & Wakhi, related to Chinese Turkistan is spoken in the upper Gojal. Hunzakuts lived off the fruits of caravan- raiding, slave trading & attacking their neighbors. The kingdom retained independence until the British took over in 1891 & became part of Pakistan in 1974. The society is co-operative rather than competitive. Each family grows enough food for its own use.
As the Hunzakuts lived aloof from the outer world, each citizen was self sufficient in making his own shoes, clothes & bowls, until, the Karakoram Highway linked them with the world. The people are cheerful & friendly. Almost entire population belongs to the Ismaili Shias sect headed by Prince Karim Agha Khan. The women wear bright clothes, long shirts over baggy trousers & embroided pillbox hats over which they drape their shawls.
ALTIT FORT : Perched on a sheer rocky cliff of 1000 ft, it overlooks the Hunza River & renders a picturesque view of the entire valley. This fort is approximately 900 years old and was made by the artisans from Baltistan.The fort has just been renovated and houses a wonderful museum rich in local artifacts and preserved history.
BALTIT FORT : is over 450 years old. This was built by a princess who married to the reigning MIR & brought with her from Baltistan, a few masons, carpenters & craftsmen to build this fort as part of her Dowry. It stands on a steep cliff edge; behind the fort is the deep ravine of the Ultar stream. Its a curious rambling old palace with 53 rooms scattered on three stories. It contains guest rooms, prisons, storerooms, kitchens & Queen's apartments. The museum room has a collection of weapons & drums. This fort also has a magnificient museum which houses priceless artifacts of this historic region.
NAGAR VALLEY : Another "princely state" across Hunza. Inhabited by the colorful & peaceful Shia Muslims, this spectacular valley domains blossoming fruit orchards & multi terraced fields irrigated by the rich mineral laden waters of the Hispar, Trivor, Barpu, Bualtar & the Silkiang Glaciers. The jeep road ends at Hopar, a magnificent bowl, terraced and fertile, with excellent views of Miar Peak, Golden Peak and Malubiting. The Bualtar Glacier snouts here and is one of the two valley glaciers of the world racing forward. Its speed is incredibly fast @ 20 centimeters (8 inch) per day.
GULMIT : The capital of Gojal, 8 km past Shishkut Bridge is a fertile plateau 2500 M high, with irrigated fields on either side of the road. Gulmit is also reckoned as the prettiest town of Hunza. Sightseeing in & around Gulmit may include visits to the Gulmit Village, the Old House and the Carpet Weaving Center. Other places in the vicinity are the Borit Lake & Ghulkin Glacier.
SHIMSHAL VALLEY : Also known as the epitome of remote inhabited areas in the Karakorams. The domain of the Largest Glaciated region on Earth, with the greatest geological upheavals steeped in the Myths of Spiritualism seems no way of this world. Named after the famous Muslim Saint, Shah Shamse of Tabrez, who migrated through this valley from China to Multan, was declared as the Epitome of remote inhabitance by the local Rulers and remained a maroon for the local outlaws for over centuries.
PASSU : A fascinating land with an amazing diversity of places, people and customs, Passu is the mixing bowl of ancient civilization and dream of nature lovers, is well known about its extraordinary contrast of landscapes of the world. Passu is one of the most beautiful village of Pakistan . From times, immemorial the village has been promising Mountainous resort. Situated in the spectacular karakoram Mountains on the old silk route 150 km from Gilgit in the west banks of Hunza River and border on China.
It has a unique place on the World map. With a rich history and deep rooted culture .It invites to its breath taking surrounding many adventurers, eco-tourist, historians and nature lovers. This famous village, its towering peaks ever flowing streams its fascinating heritage and above all its hospitable People make it a place worth visiting. Passu is considered the worlds heights landmass, where there is nothing below 2500 matters ,Passu is surrounded by some of the world most famous peaks, glaciers and lakes, such as Passu peak 7284, Shispar peak 7611, Batura, 7785, and the most remarkable is Passu cathedral peak 6500, in the shadow of lofty mountains are the Passu glacier with white skin and Batura glacier with both at the length of 56km, which is the fifth largest glacier of the world.
Human’s era passes generation to generation. Passu village is devastated four times in the past. Its first era of human generation is included 3000bc to 5000bc. we saw many arts of ibex and zebra in different rocks. It shows that people are started to live here so early. After a few decades this village had destroyed by flood, sliding and erodes of rivers. That’s why this village had been empty for a long time. Its second era was pretty historical coz Chinese people lived here, who followed Buddha. Buddha religion came through Gandhara, Swat, Gilgit, Passu and reached China . Its great memory is at Kargah Gilgit and Khuram Abed Passu.
Its third era is called Islamic coz there is Qurani Ayat written on the mountain. Islam came here in 9th century through Arabs soldiers when Buddha left. Its fourth era also called Islamic, which had been started from 18th century at the time there were 315 families. During sliding the river was blocked and again this village was destroyed by natural disaster. This time only few families were safe. Later on, again this village was destroyed by natural disaster in 1964.
Now the population is around 1000, most of their economy depends on agriculture, tourism and cattle breading. this village is famous for its high literacy rate in the region. Where you can find hundred percent educated. In this village every one wants to be educated because the environment can change the peoples. Now a day’s people are doing their education in different cities of Pakistan.
Located not far from the Chinese border on the northern edge of the range, the inhabitants of this mystic valley still retain many of their traditional customs which are fast disappearing elsewhere in the region. Being the remotest and the most isolated regions, the criminals sentenced to rigorous punishment by the "Mirs" of the state used to be "MAROOONED" in Shimshal - only the fittest survived. The descendants, however , are unbelievably friendly, honest and hospitable. Their disciplined life and cultured civilization bewitch and enthrall the visitors (fewer) from the outer world.
Geologically, Shimshal reveals, great upheavals in its natural history. With a collection of towering snow capped peaks, massive lakostrine deposits, gigantic scree eroding mountains, elevated greens meadows, fertile alluvial farms and stark rigid gorges; Shimshal domains the largest glaciated region on Earth outside the polar regions. The walk to Shimshal, however, is not a task to be undertaken lightly. Its a hard trek up and down the gorges, across rushing icy torrents, along steep narrow trail, through broken rocks, over wire-rope bridges and through crevassed glaciers. The incentive for this strenuous walk is undoubtedly equally rewarding.
KHUNJERAB PASS : Bypassing Gulmit, a fertile plateau with irrigated fields on either side of the KKH, we drive to Passu, a setting off point for climbers for the Batura, Passu, Kuk & Lupghar Groups. Located under the shadows of Shispar & Passu Cones, the fabulous trek to the legendary Shimshal too begins from Passu. From the outskirts of Passu, 30 Kms before Sust, (immigration check post) begins the Khunjerab National Park, the natural habitat of the endangered Marco Polo Sheep & Snow Leopard.
The last stretch of the road winds up round 12 wide, well engineered hairpin bends to the top. Khunjerab Pass 4733 M, is the highest border crossing on a paved road in the world. The Khunjerab Pass is the continental watershed, on the Pakistan side flowing down to the Indian Ocean and that on the Chinese side being swallowed by the Taklamakan Desert in the Tarim Basin. Taklamakan literally means, "IF YOU GO IN YOU WON"T COME OUT".
The scenery is remarkably different on either side of the pass. The Pakistani side is marked with barren deserted gorges with no sign of human life for the last 40 Kms before border, the Chinese side, however, is wide, open, grassy, high altitude plateau, with herds of yaks, sheep & low humped Bactrian camels tended by the smiling colorful TAJIKS.
I'll post more trip details side by side along with the pics :D:D
Karimabad capital of Hunza Valley
Khunjerab
KKH in Khunjerab
Passu
me n my ride at Passu (Hunza)