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Can anyone tell us is there any bike missing problem wen u ride Gs150 at 100-110. My bike starts missing at same speed... Wat cud b reason before 100 mark its all fine... Going at 100 smoothly... I am not frequent 100-110 mark hitter but on last ride on Gt road i had to stretch it to 110 on some part of the road... And noticed thr is some missing creeped in... spark plug tip clearance checked its at 0.08mm... And considered to be fine... Dont know abt coil whether its giving problem at high speed or not...
Model of my bike is 2014. And total millage is 5700km
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Using Zic 4T 20W-40. And O ring was installed dry.
Bro what do you mean by cleaning the bike engine?
Hello everyone. Anyone interested in making me an offer on a GS 150 2011 model. Run 9000km, in black. Has a Islamabad 666 number. Drop me a line.
Or if money ain't a problem then get meguiar's Apc (500ml is more than enough) since u will be diluting it with 10:1 ratio. Won't harm the paint nor the engine. Can be used to clean anything hence the Name Apc (All purpose cleaner) :-)
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[QUOTE=12gauge;4482535]Bro, that is exactly the "very Idea" here. leaving a dull finish only reiterates the point that dish washing soap removes all traces of oil/grease and dirt.
This week bike hit 8000Km mark and it was time for routine check up.
Last Engine oil filter was replaced at 4000Km, so after draining the engine oil i put in new oil filter. Placed new O ring in filter cover as well.
Putting in Zic 4T 20W-40 (Semi-synth) this time.
Then moved to petrol filter and as soon as i opened the cup and removed the filter, it was a shock. Wasn't expecting to find this much kachra just after 2000Km interval. Cleaned the cup and put in new fuel filter.
Then removed the air filter. The spare air filter i have was already washed and dried. So i just oiled it up with Liqui Moly and put it on.
Then took spark plug out and cleaned it and put it back. Wanted to adjust the gap too but still haven't got feeler gauge.
Filled the battery water and lubricated the chain.
This tune up was done after 2000Km interval and in last 2000Km i don't remember bike needing any work done.
Hoping for another 2000Km of maintenance free ride after all this work.
New price of GS-150 ---->>> Rs. 122k ONLYYYYYY......
I am not jumping to any conclusions but if there is rust inside the tank then I guess you should claim warranty because company is responsible for putting in adequate rust preventive inside fuel tank.
By the way, where did you find a spare fuel filter and for how much? I have searched local market in Rawalpindi but couldn't get a fuel filter anywhere.
for best bike performance and ease of mind kindly do the following:
1. buy a quality (German, Japanese, French, American) feeler gauge. buy the one that has at least 10 different measurements between .05mm to 1mm
2. take out the spark plug. make sure to blow out any dust or debris with high pressure nozzle before unscrewing the plug. you do not want anything to fall inside the combustion chamber once the plug is out.
3. adjust spark plug gap yourself (.8mm) and do not let your mechanic do it. it requires care and mechanics are always in too much hurry to exercise any care.
4. now tighten the spark plug with fingers only and tighten further only slightly with a plug wrench. if possible, we want the open end of the plug tip to face the intake valve. this may require some manipulation or may need more than one plug to see which one tightens and faces the intake valve at the same time. this process is called spark plug indexing, once indexed, you'll see a significant increase in bike's performance due to more efficient combustion. we want the air-fuel mixture to be received by a strong spark as soon as possible. most people never consider this and always tighten it without any concern which usually results in slower combustion. I have even seen people tighten their bike's spark plugs in a way that the open end faces the exact opposite of the intake valve or the open end of the spark plug facing the exhaust valve. then they complain that the current is weak.
5. then wait a few hours if possible. we want the bike to get as cold as possible. when I say cold, I mean halka garam nahe mukamal thanda. then open the tapped covers and adjust the tapped gaps. we want to adjust the tapped gap (0.1mm) on completely cold bike and we want the exhaust tapped to be slightly open than the intake tapped gap. most mechanics don't know how important this is and mostly adjust the tappets with same gap. which is wrong. exhaust gap is always higher than the intake gap because we want the exhaust valve to stay open longer than the intake valve. why? because intake flow has to travel shorter distance as compare to the exhaust flow which has to travel a longer distance before exiting the bike's system. kindly recheck the numbers on intake and exhaust tappets as I am a little confused about the exact gap measurements here. whatever the numbers, you should understand the concept which is more important. I think it is 0.1mm for the intake and 0.12mm for the exhaust. please reconfirm these.
6. once done, put everything back and enjoy a bike that breathes easy, rides free and offers better throttle response.
those were some golden points mentioned by you.
Regarding fuel filter, try to hunt for it in DYL spare parts shops. There is one right beside Muhammadi Autos on Murree road i think.
And i don't let the mechanic do anything, because i don't go to service center for routine maintenance.
Looks like it's about time i should get a feeler gauge and learn to make full use of it.
These values were mentioned on GS150 maintenance board in service center
This is for racers only !!
Indexing refers to a process whereby auxiliary washers of varying thickness are placed under the spark plug's shoulder so that when the spark plug is tightened, the gap will point in the desired direction.
However, without running an engine on a dyno, it is impossible to gauge which type of indexing works best in your engine. While most engines like the spark plug's gap open to the intake valve, there are still other combinations that make more power with the gap pointed toward the exhaust valve.
In any case, engines with indexed spark plugs will typically make only a few more horsepower, typically less than 1% of total engine output. For a 500hp engine, you'd be lucky to get 5hp. While there are exceptions, the bottom line is that without a dyno, gauging success will be difficult.
That means most of the time, we get our tappets adjusted with warm engine.. thus not set to perfect gap.
Please yaar he mujay smjaa do gull bhai k ye krtay kesay hain indexing
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thats why I recommend spark plug indexing. to index a spark plug, you can use multiple washers of varying thickness or there is a simpler way: just try different spark plugs. each spark plug has a thread which starts in a random manner therefore you can always select a plug whose open end faces the intake valve.
one more thing, though this is debate-able but the general consensus is that for single cylinder and small displacement vehicles the open end of the spark plug should face intake instead of exhaust.
what you have mentioned above may be true for a multi-cylinder and large displacement engines because flame has to propagate through a large area to completely igniting the air-fuel mixture. in our case of a single cylinder, small displacement and high RPM engines, we want the flame to completely burn the air-fuel mixture before it reaches the exhaust intake otherwise the exhaust valve will open and the unburnt mixture will exit the system.
anyways, brother. I think you've miss understood the whole point. i never said that indexing will result in extra 5hp or an X amount of HP out of your machine. I merely said that this will result in efficient burning of the mixture. we want the whole system to as efficient as possible. not to turn it into a rocket, only to get max performance out of it.
same is the case with Valve gaps, please do not think that your bike will turn into a rocket. a correct setting will only serve to get the max out of your bike's engine.
Brother you have one O-ring missing. One is on the filter cap and one is on the hole where the filter goes in(the one you don't have). It's a small O-ring. Do get it. The people at suzuki won't have one for GS. They will have one for sprinter and its a perfect fit. Use that one.
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
Since last few days, i was having trouble with idling. Bike wasn't able to maintain RPM in idle position.
It would warm up fine but after covering some distance if i left it to idle it would drop RPM in a matter of seconds and stall. Problem was more evident in tilted position, when i put the bike on side stand it would immediately drop RPMs and stall.
I cleaned the plug, checked battery terminal connections, cleaned the fuel filter cup/filter etc... but all the same.
Finally decided to adjust the mixture and voila. That was it.
Apparently bike was done running on "Factory Rich" settings and was begging for lean mixture now.
As soon as i leaned the mixture a bit, RPM increased a bit and became stable there. So adjusted the idle screw and set RPMs at 1500. Bike is back to its happy self.
Thanks @ammarzahid for the tip.
No problem bro my bike still does abnormal idling while on side stand, i might have to lean the mixture a bit more
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