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Thread: Suzuki GS150 Euro-ll 2013

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    Cool Suzuki GS150 Euro-ll 2013

    Hi everybody
    Here is my new ride GS150.
    This is my second GS. I got Deluxe after selling the first one, but started missing the silent and smooth ride of GS so got one again.
    Please say Mashallah

    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1693389


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    Can anyone tell us is there any bike missing problem wen u ride Gs150 at 100-110. My bike starts missing at same speed... Wat cud b reason before 100 mark its all fine... Going at 100 smoothly... I am not frequent 100-110 mark hitter but on last ride on Gt road i had to stretch it to 110 on some part of the road... And noticed thr is some missing creeped in... spark plug tip clearance checked its at 0.08mm... And considered to be fine... Dont know abt coil whether its giving problem at high speed or not...

    Model of my bike is 2014. And total millage is 5700km

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by 12gauge View Post
    Bro, if you don't mind me asking but why did the batter strap/belt gave up? could you explain a bit about it. cause if the rubber kinda disintegrated (turned into powdery crap) then it could mean that acidic vapors are accumulating in the battery compartment. did you notice any other spot of rusted paint or white powder in that area. get you battery charger checked. it could be over charging. one symptom: there is always a need to refill the battery fluid every now and then.

    about the O-ring. bro which oil are u using? cause if the O-ring was worn out prematurely then I guess the oil is in contact with the O-ring and that particular oil isn't compatible with the rubber used in the ring. try changing the oil and next time, do not put a dab of oil on the O-ring before installing a new one (common practice) just install it dry. the practice of putting a dab of oil on the O-ring originated from car oil filters as they have to be screwed in and twisting a dry oil filter can break the O-ring on its mouth. in case of GS-150 it is not necessary because the O-ring serves no such purpose.

    Regards.
    Strap just got small vertical cracks over time, and one day when i tried to take it off it just broke. Haven't noticed any white powder in that area. Though i noticed some powder formation on battery terminals and started to use grease on them since then. Battery needs a refil every 2000Km, but then again bike is being used mostly for very short rides and self-start is used a lot. I'll try to get charger checked too.

    Using Zic 4T 20W-40. And O ring was installed dry.




    Quote Originally Posted by 12gauge View Post
    but I dont want to be a party pooper but here are my two cents on the subject:

    1. dont worry about the oil level. from the picture I can see that the oil pan isn't level to the ground therefore its pretty normal. if you still want to be extra sure, just drain out the used/old oil and measure it. I am sure it will turn out to be OK.

    2. when did you clean the bike's engine? cause if it was cleaned like two months ago then its pretty normal to see this level of oil seepage and subsequent accumulation of dirt. you must understand that these particular spots do not have a gasket to ensure that the oil stays put. they are merely employing rubber o-rings between two contact surfaces which almost always allows some of the oil to seep out (over time ofcourse).

    Regards.
    Actually it's not the oil level i am worried about, my issue is with cosmetic problem.

    Bro what do you mean by cleaning the bike engine?

  4. #383
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    Hello everyone. Anyone interested in making me an offer on a GS 150 2011 model. Run 9000km, in black. Has a Islamabad 666 number. Drop me a line.
    http://groups.google.com.pk/group/vwcop

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    Quote Originally Posted by gull_s_777 View Post
    Bro what do you mean by cleaning the bike engine?
    Bro, I meant gentle cleaning/washing of the engine (from the outside of course) with a mild detergent. I prefer dish washing soap cause nothing cuts grease/oil better, does not contain any abrasives or chemicals that can hard the engine finish and as an extra bonus it leaves a nice lemony scent.

    Regards.

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    Using dish washing soap for engine cleaning makes it very dull looking.
    Quote Originally Posted by 12gauge View Post
    Bro, I meant gentle cleaning/washing of the engine (from the outside of course) with a mild detergent. I prefer dish washing soap cause nothing cuts grease/oil better, does not contain any abrasives or chemicals that can hard the engine finish and as an extra bonus it leaves a nice lemony scent.

    Regards.

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    Quote Originally Posted by surplusstock View Post
    Using dish washing soap for engine cleaning makes it very dull looking.
    Why not use wd 40.
    Or if money ain't a problem then get meguiar's Apc (500ml is more than enough) since u will be diluting it with 10:1 ratio. Won't harm the paint nor the engine. Can be used to clean anything hence the Name Apc (All purpose cleaner) :-)

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2

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    Quote Originally Posted by surplusstock View Post
    Using dish washing soap for engine cleaning makes it very dull looking.
    Bro, that is exactly the "very Idea" here. leaving a dull finish only reiterates the point that dish washing soap removes all traces of oil/grease and dirt.

    Quote Originally Posted by ahsan95 View Post
    Why not use wd 40.
    Or if money ain't a problem then get meguiar's Apc (500ml is more than enough) since u will be diluting it with 10:1 ratio. Won't harm the paint nor the engine. Can be used to clean anything hence the Name Apc (All purpose cleaner) :-)

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2
    Bro, I fail to understand the logic behind using WD40 to clean your engine. WD40 is actually a CLP (sort, we'll do into detail later) in a pressurized container. what I am trying to say that it will clean (no doubt about that) but it will leave an oily residue and you would not want that near a heat source. it may not flash burn but the slow burning will eventually destroy the finish. secondly, as with all oils, it will lift paint, it will destroy rubbers and it will collect dust/debris.

    Regards.

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    Okay thanks.

    [QUOTE=12gauge;4482535]Bro, that is exactly the "very Idea" here. leaving a dull finish only reiterates the point that dish washing soap removes all traces of oil/grease and dirt.

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    Default Doing Routine Maintenance at 8000Km

    This week bike hit 8000Km mark and it was time for routine check up.

    Last Engine oil filter was replaced at 4000Km, so after draining the engine oil i put in new oil filter. Placed new O ring in filter cover as well.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468134

    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468135


    Putting in Zic 4T 20W-40 (Semi-synth) this time.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468136


    Then moved to petrol filter and as soon as i opened the cup and removed the filter, it was a shock. Wasn't expecting to find this much kachra just after 2000Km interval. Cleaned the cup and put in new fuel filter.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468137


    Then removed the air filter. The spare air filter i have was already washed and dried. So i just oiled it up with Liqui Moly and put it on.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468138


    Then took spark plug out and cleaned it and put it back. Wanted to adjust the gap too but still haven't got feeler gauge.
    Filled the battery water and lubricated the chain.

    This tune up was done after 2000Km interval and in last 2000Km i don't remember bike needing any work done.
    Hoping for another 2000Km of maintenance free ride after all this work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gull_s_777 View Post
    This week bike hit 8000Km mark and it was time for routine check up.

    Last Engine oil filter was replaced at 4000Km, so after draining the engine oil i put in new oil filter. Placed new O ring in filter cover as well.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468134

    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468135


    Putting in Zic 4T 20W-40 (Semi-synth) this time.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468136


    Then moved to petrol filter and as soon as i opened the cup and removed the filter, it was a shock. Wasn't expecting to find this much kachra just after 2000Km interval. Cleaned the cup and put in new fuel filter.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468137


    Then removed the air filter. The spare air filter i have was already washed and dried. So i just oiled it up with Liqui Moly and put it on.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468138


    Then took spark plug out and cleaned it and put it back. Wanted to adjust the gap too but still haven't got feeler gauge.
    Filled the battery water and lubricated the chain.

    This tune up was done after 2000Km interval and in last 2000Km i don't remember bike needing any work done.
    Hoping for another 2000Km of maintenance free ride after all this work.
    that lot of khachara in fuel filter change your fuel pump

  12. #391
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    New price of GS-150 ---->>> Rs. 122k ONLYYYYYY......

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    Quote Originally Posted by gull_s_777 View Post
    Then moved to petrol filter and as soon as i opened the cup and removed the filter, it was a shock. Wasn't expecting to find this much kachra just after 2000Km interval. Cleaned the cup and put in new fuel filter.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1468137
    Bro, this much gunk in your petrol filter requires further investigation. kindly take a bore light or a bore scope or you can also use a tilted mirror at the end of a long stick to see inside the tank. I suspect there must be rust inside the petrol tank specially under the top side of the tank.

    I am not jumping to any conclusions but if there is rust inside the tank then I guess you should claim warranty because company is responsible for putting in adequate rust preventive inside fuel tank.

    By the way, where did you find a spare fuel filter and for how much? I have searched local market in Rawalpindi but couldn't get a fuel filter anywhere.

    Quote Originally Posted by gull_s_777 View Post
    Then took spark plug out and cleaned it and put it back. Wanted to adjust the gap too but still haven't got feeler gauge.
    Bro, it is better to purchase a feeler gauge and not rely on the ones used by mechanics. most mechanics use cheap and unreliable feeler gauges and mostly rely on their gut feeling when adjusting gaps.

    for best bike performance and ease of mind kindly do the following:

    1. buy a quality (German, Japanese, French, American) feeler gauge. buy the one that has at least 10 different measurements between .05mm to 1mm

    2. take out the spark plug. make sure to blow out any dust or debris with high pressure nozzle before unscrewing the plug. you do not want anything to fall inside the combustion chamber once the plug is out.

    3. adjust spark plug gap yourself (.8mm) and do not let your mechanic do it. it requires care and mechanics are always in too much hurry to exercise any care.

    4. now tighten the spark plug with fingers only and tighten further only slightly with a plug wrench. if possible, we want the open end of the plug tip to face the intake valve. this may require some manipulation or may need more than one plug to see which one tightens and faces the intake valve at the same time. this process is called spark plug indexing, once indexed, you'll see a significant increase in bike's performance due to more efficient combustion. we want the air-fuel mixture to be received by a strong spark as soon as possible. most people never consider this and always tighten it without any concern which usually results in slower combustion. I have even seen people tighten their bike's spark plugs in a way that the open end faces the exact opposite of the intake valve or the open end of the spark plug facing the exhaust valve. then they complain that the current is weak.

    5. then wait a few hours if possible. we want the bike to get as cold as possible. when I say cold, I mean halka garam nahe mukamal thanda. then open the tapped covers and adjust the tapped gaps. we want to adjust the tapped gap (0.1mm) on completely cold bike and we want the exhaust tapped to be slightly open than the intake tapped gap. most mechanics don't know how important this is and mostly adjust the tappets with same gap. which is wrong. exhaust gap is always higher than the intake gap because we want the exhaust valve to stay open longer than the intake valve. why? because intake flow has to travel shorter distance as compare to the exhaust flow which has to travel a longer distance before exiting the bike's system. kindly recheck the numbers on intake and exhaust tappets as I am a little confused about the exact gap measurements here. whatever the numbers, you should understand the concept which is more important. I think it is 0.1mm for the intake and 0.12mm for the exhaust. please reconfirm these.

    6. once done, put everything back and enjoy a bike that breathes easy, rides free and offers better throttle response.

    Regards.

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    @12gauge sir
    those were some golden points mentioned by you.

    Regarding fuel filter, try to hunt for it in DYL spare parts shops. There is one right beside Muhammadi Autos on Murree road i think.

    And i don't let the mechanic do anything, because i don't go to service center for routine maintenance.
    Looks like it's about time i should get a feeler gauge and learn to make full use of it.

    These values were mentioned on GS150 maintenance board in service center
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1469002

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    Quote Originally Posted by gull_s_777 View Post
    @12gauge sir
    those were some golden points mentioned by you.

    Regarding fuel filter, try to hunt for it in DYL spare parts shops. There is one right beside Muhammadi Autos on Murree road i think.

    And i don't let the mechanic do anything, because i don't go to service center for routine maintenance.
    Looks like it's about time i should get a feeler gauge and learn to make full use of it.

    These values were mentioned on GS150 maintenance board in service center
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1469002
    Thank you for the correct numbers bro. now I remember. intake should be set at 0.05mm where exhaust should be set at 0.15mm. if one wants max performance then I guess one can stretch it upto intake 0.10mm and 0.20mm for exhaust but I guess the engine would probably become too noisy.

    Regards.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 12gauge View Post
    4. now tighten the spark plug with fingers only and tighten further only slightly with a plug wrench. if possible, we want the open end of the plug tip to face the intake valve. this may require some manipulation or may need more than one plug to see which one tightens and faces the intake valve at the same time. this process is called spark plug indexing, once indexed, you'll see a significant increase in bike's performance due to more efficient combustion. we want the air-fuel mixture to be received by a strong spark as soon as possible. most people never consider this and always tighten it without any concern which usually results in slower combustion. I have even seen people tighten their bike's spark plugs in a way that the open end faces the exact opposite of the intake valve or the open end of the spark plug facing the exhaust valve. then they complain that the current is weak.
    So this point really made me curious and i found this on NGK website.

    Indexing
    This is for racers only !!
    Indexing refers to a process whereby auxiliary washers of varying thickness are placed under the spark plug's shoulder so that when the spark plug is tightened, the gap will point in the desired direction.
    However, without running an engine on a dyno, it is impossible to gauge which type of indexing works best in your engine. While most engines like the spark plug's gap open to the intake valve, there are still other combinations that make more power with the gap pointed toward the exhaust valve.
    In any case, engines with indexed spark plugs will typically make only a few more horsepower, typically less than 1% of total engine output. For a 500hp engine, you'd be lucky to get 5hp. While there are exceptions, the bottom line is that without a dyno, gauging success will be difficult.




    Quote Originally Posted by 12gauge View Post
    5. then wait a few hours if possible. we want the bike to get as cold as possible. when I say cold, I mean halka garam nahe mukamal thanda. then open the tapped covers and adjust the tapped gaps.
    How can one manage to get bike in mukamal thanda condition after riding it to service center. It'll need few hours of wait, right?
    That means most of the time, we get our tappets adjusted with warm engine.. thus not set to perfect gap.

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    Please yaar he mujay smjaa do gull bhai k ye krtay kesay hain indexing

    Sent from my A50 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by gull_s_777 View Post
    Indexing
    This is for racers only !!
    Indexing refers to a process whereby auxiliary washers of varying thickness are placed under the spark plug's shoulder so that when the spark plug is tightened, the gap will point in the desired direction.
    However, without running an engine on a dyno, it is impossible to gauge which type of indexing works best in your engine. While most engines like the spark plug's gap open to the intake valve, there are still other combinations that make more power with the gap pointed toward the exhaust valve.
    [FONT=Arial]In any case, engines with indexed spark plugs will typically make only a few more horsepower, typically less than 1% of total engine output. For a 500hp engine, you'd be lucky to get 5hp. While there are exceptions, the bottom line is that without a dyno, gauging success will be difficult.
    Bro the procedure that you've mentioned above is for Racing vehicles and engines with multi-cylinder configuration. there is a common understanding amongst engine builders that best engine in terms of delivering immediate results is a "single cylinder" engine.

    thats why I recommend spark plug indexing. to index a spark plug, you can use multiple washers of varying thickness or there is a simpler way: just try different spark plugs. each spark plug has a thread which starts in a random manner therefore you can always select a plug whose open end faces the intake valve.

    one more thing, though this is debate-able but the general consensus is that for single cylinder and small displacement vehicles the open end of the spark plug should face intake instead of exhaust.

    what you have mentioned above may be true for a multi-cylinder and large displacement engines because flame has to propagate through a large area to completely igniting the air-fuel mixture. in our case of a single cylinder, small displacement and high RPM engines, we want the flame to completely burn the air-fuel mixture before it reaches the exhaust intake otherwise the exhaust valve will open and the unburnt mixture will exit the system.

    anyways, brother. I think you've miss understood the whole point. i never said that indexing will result in extra 5hp or an X amount of HP out of your machine. I merely said that this will result in efficient burning of the mixture. we want the whole system to as efficient as possible. not to turn it into a rocket, only to get max performance out of it.

    same is the case with Valve gaps, please do not think that your bike will turn into a rocket. a correct setting will only serve to get the max out of your bike's engine.

    Quote Originally Posted by gull_s_777 View Post
    How can one manage to get bike in mukamal thanda condition after riding it to service center. It'll need few hours of wait, right?
    That means most of the time, we get our tappets adjusted with warm engine.. thus not set to perfect gap.
    tappet adjustment done. when engine is warm is never correct. for that we need a cold engine. the best way is to leave the bike overnight and adjust tappets early morning.

    Regards

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    @gull_s_777
    Brother you have one O-ring missing. One is on the filter cap and one is on the hole where the filter goes in(the one you don't have). It's a small O-ring. Do get it. The people at suzuki won't have one for GS. They will have one for sprinter and its a perfect fit. Use that one.
    Suzuki GS150 Euroll 2013 -1487331
    "Imagination is more important than knowledge"

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    Default Bike Idle Issue

    Since last few days, i was having trouble with idling. Bike wasn't able to maintain RPM in idle position.
    It would warm up fine but after covering some distance if i left it to idle it would drop RPM in a matter of seconds and stall. Problem was more evident in tilted position, when i put the bike on side stand it would immediately drop RPMs and stall.

    I cleaned the plug, checked battery terminal connections, cleaned the fuel filter cup/filter etc... but all the same.

    Finally decided to adjust the mixture and voila. That was it.
    Apparently bike was done running on "Factory Rich" settings and was begging for lean mixture now.
    As soon as i leaned the mixture a bit, RPM increased a bit and became stable there. So adjusted the idle screw and set RPMs at 1500. Bike is back to its happy self.

    Thanks @ammarzahid for the tip.

  21. #400
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    ammarzahid's Avatar
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    No problem bro my bike still does abnormal idling while on side stand, i might have to lean the mixture a bit more

    Sent from my LG-F160K using PW Forums mobile app

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