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Thread: My Suzuki GD 110.

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    Smile My Suzuki GD 110.

    Good day, everyone.

    I have made the long-awaited purchase of Suzuki GD 110 today, Alhamdu Lillah. I bought it from Empress Tower Suzuki, Lahore. It is the 7th GD here on Pak Wheels

    I call its colour love-red

    Suzuki GD 110 has indeed ushered us into a new era of motor-biking in Pakistan.

    Behold, a lot of performance reviews are coming your way. So stay tuned.

    Below are a few Suzuki GD 110 vs. Honda CD 100 (Pridor) reviews based on my experience of both:
    General Riding Experience.
    Frame Vibrations Transferred to Side-view Mirros.

    Gear Box - Transmission System.

    Features worth mentioning:
    Auto-Decompression System
    Suspension System.

    Pictures:
    Few more clicks.
    Some random clicks.
    Pictures after a Wash.

    My Solution to Kick Issue.

    Updates:
    Extremely Poor Fuel Consumption.

    Attached Images Attached Images                
    First deserve, then desire.

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    @TZB bro i salute to ur patience .. after 200ml tests it seems it has some deep problem not easy to rectify, which means more hassle and maghaz khapayi with mechanics .... it really pisses me off that even spending 100k, one is still struggling for basic needs ...
    Rise from the ashes,.....

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    @TZB
    bro petrol pump bhi change ker ke dekh lain... inshaALLAH afaaqa hoga
    mere sath bhi aisa hota hai petrol pump change.. average change..
    People with high ego and unnecessary attitude deserves the standing ovation of the tallest finger..

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    Quote Originally Posted by abobobilly View Post
    While i'll definitely choose a Semi or Fully synthetic oil over a mineral one, i have to keep the prices in my mind too.
    Can you please explain why you would prefer semi-synthetic/synthetic oil over mineral oil? How is price a concern when a non-mineral oil has a drain interval of at least twice the drain interval of a mineral oil? In that sense, it actually costs cheaper to use non-mineral oil. For example, 1L of Liqui Moly 20W-50 costs somewhere around PKR 700. 1L of Havoline 20W-50 costs around PKR 400. Liqui Moly is good to go for 2,000 - 3,000 km, while Havoline is hardly good for 1,000 km. It means Liqui Moly costs you PKR 350/1,000 km whereas Havoline PKR 400+/1,000 km. So, isn't it wise to use an expensive oil with a longer drain interval?

    Furthermore, you can also topup a good quality oil (Liqui Moly, KIXX, for instance) every 1,000 km, whereas you cannot do it with a mineral oil. Can you please educate me on this?
    Quote Originally Posted by amjad635 View Post
    TZB bro i highly recommend check patrol average one time this way
    pour one liter patrol in tank note the km reading and drive the bike until patrol finishes when patrol finishes take reading and see how
    many km bike done on one liter of patrol you don't need to note reading as there is trip meter installed in bike
    just reset it to zero zero

    And bro when suzuki guys were testing bike there might be some extra patrol already present in Carburtor
    Thank you for your suggestion, bro. However, it is one and the same thing either to do mathemtics after driving a bike with a measured quantity of fuel or drive it with 1L of fuel.

    You are right about your concern, but the Suzuki mechanic burned all the fuel in carburettor by starting the bike after disconnecting fuel supply from fuel tank. So, no, there was no fuel in carburettor before the test . And you know what, the head-mechanic guaranteed to get an average of 50 km/h before we even went out on road for test!
    Quote Originally Posted by Automotorsport_Lover View Post
    @TZB

    Brother debris/ stuck floats/ stuck cables ka yeh matlab nahi hai k wo phansi he reh jati hen... Sometimes these things get stuck, sometimes they dont. This keeps on repeating... Apki calculations men bhi at some days it gave u very bad mileage, sometimes good.

    If u want to solve this problem then start checking things one by one... Meri bike new ha, men kyun khulwaun isy? Kyun open Karun carb etc? Yeh mind set real problem sey bara culprit sabit hota ha... Yei marwata ha

    At this moment you should think out of the box for your bike problems... Because there is no jinn on ur bike!
    I think having a carburettor opened is equivalent to having an open-heart surgery which is done only when everything else has failed and it becomes totally, utterly, and absolutely necessary to perform this procedure.

    Lolz, yeah. There is no "jinn" in bike, it's just that I am clueless yet about the issue My GD has passed mechanical fitness test after giving an impressive fuel average of 52 km/h at an alomost-consistent speed of 60 km/h. Now I need to focus on external factors such as fuel quality and qunatity.
    Quote Originally Posted by IADina View Post
    Bhai these day I don trust any petrol pump they are all robbing us. I get my petrol filled from "Admore" here in Karachi tis is the only reliable pump i feel. @TZB boss now stop blaming and cursing your GD it's a lovely machine.
    Yes, bro. I agree now. I guess I need to check on fuel.
    Quote Originally Posted by getscorpion View Post
    @TZB bro i salute to ur patience .. after 200ml tests it seems it has some deep problem not easy to rectify, which means more hassle and maghaz khapayi with mechanics .... it really pisses me off that even spending 100k, one is still struggling for basic needs ...
    You are right about your concern. But I think I should wait for doing anything else till changing my fuel vendor and see if I get a better outcome. If it stays the same then, yes, it requires more "mahgaz khapaai". One thing is certain, however, Suzuki guys were so proud and felt victorious after the test that now they won't hear any complaints from me regarding fuel-average I'll have to do something on my own. Challenge accepted!
    Quote Originally Posted by waqas18 View Post
    @TZB
    bro petrol pump bhi change ker ke dekh lain... inshaALLAH afaaqa hoga
    mere sath bhi aisa hota hai petrol pump change.. average change..
    Haan yaar, ab yehi karna reh gaya hay bas. Mere Abbu ne mujhe ek fuel station ka bataya hay. Woh bata rahay thay k ek dafa kaheen se car ka fuel tank full karwaya to car ne kam mileage di, phir ek or jagah se full karwaya tank to bohat he acchi mileage mili. Ab usi fuel station se fuel loon ga or check karoon ga nateeja. For Lahore members, I am talking about Shell Petrol Pump on Dharampura Road (in front of Caltex).
    First deserve, then desire.

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    same problem with petrol pump
    after fill up my deluxe bike total distance cover 200-km in 10-litre petrol

    but when change petrol pump bike cover 500-km distance in 10-litres petrol

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    Brother yeah why should not suzuki guys be proud
    there bike successfully cleared the test and yeah from now on
    they won't listen to your low fuel complain at all they would think
    its you who are not calculating fuel average with correct procedure



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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Can you please explain why you would prefer semi-synthetic/synthetic oil over mineral oil? How is price a concern when a non-mineral oil has a drain interval of at least twice the drain interval of a mineral oil? In that sense, it actually costs cheaper to use non-mineral oil. For example, 1L of Liqui Moly 20W-50 costs somewhere around PKR 700. 1L of Havoline 20W-50 costs around PKR 400. Liqui Moly is good to go for 2,000 - 3,000 km, while Havoline is hardly good for 1,000 km. It means Liqui Moly costs you PKR 350/1,000 km whereas Havoline PKR 400+/1,000 km. So, isn't it wise to use an expensive oil with a longer drain interval?
    I am gonna be honest here. I am not a qualified person when it comes to engine oil, but i have done some searching on the internet, experienced with different oils (even ZIC 4T, Castrol GTX), read about the Grades oil use and which one to go for ... but in the end, i concluded it doesn't really matter (specifically talking about my CG125 as i have no info at all about GD110).

    We are running an "Ancient" engine. Whatever you use, Mineral or Semi-Synthetic, i'll perform almost equally. I say almost because semi-synthetic will always bear some more miles, before its needed to be changed. As long as you keep changing the oil at the right time, you'll get good performance out of it.

    Now, whoever says to change the engine oil at 2000-2500 kms is either dumb or doesn't understand the environment of Pakistan. If you travel shorter distances, engine won't get upto full heat and oil becomes dirtier much quicker ... and its a usual case in Pakistan. Here, 1000km on an engine oil is a miracle. So even if you use the most expensive oil (LiquiMoly), i don't think it'd ever last any more than 1200 or say 1500 absolute max. So basically, there is no saving in long run. You are paying almost double the price (Rs.420 for Havoline vs. Rs.700!? ... for LiquiMoly) for 50% more mileage. However, i have never used LiquiMoly so i can't comment on that. I can't just rely on other people's experience, unless i try it on my own. (which i can't ... read what i said about my father bringing the oil and why i don't want to spend some money on my own )

    And like i said, i'll post my experience once i'll get done with this Kixx Ultra 4T (which is my 2nd change). Currently its performing just the same as Havoline for me. The real difference will start emerging after 800 kms onwards, when the Clutch Slip starts to become obvious when the bike heats up.

    Baaqi GD110 k liye owners manual read karain You'll find better information there.
    Riders on the storm ... literally.

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    60km/h at almost constant speed, is the optimum scenario for getting best petrol average. In daily metropolitan commuting, maintaining this speed is not possible.
    If u r getting 52km/l in ideal situation then in normal routine u would get not more than 45km/l that may tend to 40km/l including other factors.

    BTW why don't u try to interchange your carburettor with any other GD for a day or two ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by abobobilly View Post
    Now, whoever says to change the engine oil at 2000-2500 kms is either dumb or doesn't understand the environment of Pakistan. If you travel shorter distances, engine won't get upto full heat and oil becomes dirtier much quicker ... and its a usual case in Pakistan.
    Its strange, reading it first time that if engine wont get upto full heat and oil become dirtier much quicker. Where on the internet you find this, can you please share the link of that website.

    In this perspective, If I use my car for shorter distances then should I change its oil after 2000 kms since we normally change at 4000km interval.

  10. #249
    TZB
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    Quote Originally Posted by abobobilly View Post
    Now, whoever says to change the engine oil at 2000-2500 kms is either dumb or doesn't understand the environment of Pakistan. If you travel shorter distances, engine won't get upto full heat and oil becomes dirtier much quicker ... and its a usual case in Pakistan.
    This is debatable, I guess. Because we have members here who have a successful relationship with their engine oils giving them 2,000 - 3,000 km drain interval happily. And yes, they do take proper care of their machines and would not compromise on their performance.
    Quote Originally Posted by abobobilly View Post
    The real difference will start emerging after 800 kms onwards, when the Clutch Slip starts to become obvious when the bike heats up.
    Can you please explain how to judge whether there is any slippage in clutch plates? I mean how do you know clutch is slipping and engine oil has given up?
    First deserve, then desire.

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    Guys, last Saturday when Suzuki guys tested my bike for its fuel consumption, the bike came to a full stop when the measured quantity of fuel in external tank finished. However, after re-establishing link between fuel tank and carburettor, engine refused to start. Repeated attempts with and without choke failed. Also, fuel started to leak from carburettor's drain pipe. Mechanic said "bike over ho gai hay".

    Can you please explain what is meant by "bike ka over hona"?

    The bike was dragged to showroom where head mechanic tried everything to start the bike in vain. Lastly, he asked his junior to open its air filter, and man it was flooded with fuel. And this, he said, confirmed bike had suffered from a serious "over" scenario.

    What is this whole "over" thing and why does it cause fuel leakage through drain pipe and also its accumulation in air filter compartment?
    First deserve, then desire.

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    well these mechanics are just too dumb ...

    the bike will choke and OVER as soon as some debris, dirt or water enter the carburetor ... now u told us they used a 200ml bottle for test ... guess what, the genius didn't used the properly cleaned bottle for fuel and the debris made its way into the carburetor ... however the petrol should hv drained through the pipe, how it reached to fuel filter is a mystery and actually dangerous...it shouldn't happened that way ... did u changed the air filter after that ? i think its paper filter, right ?
    Rise from the ashes,.....

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    TZB
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    Quote Originally Posted by getscorpion View Post
    well these mechanics are just too dumb ...

    the bike will choke and OVER as soon as some debris, dirt or water enter the carburetor ... now u told us they used a 200ml bottle for test ... guess what, the genius didn't used the properly cleaned bottle for fuel and the debris made its way into the carburetor ... however the petrol should hv drained through the pipe, how it reached to fuel filter is a mystery and actually dangerous...it shouldn't happened that way ... did u changed the air filter after that ? i think its paper filter, right ?
    Yes, it is a paper-based filter. No, the fuel didn't damp air filter. Actually air filter in GD is inside a box and it is on one wall where filter is fitted. Fuel collected on the floor of air filter compartment. So there was no need to replace air filter.

    So did the bike become over because of debris and carburettor started rejecting extra fuel through drain pipe and air intake pipe? But how the bike started after air filter chamber was cleared of all fuel? Nothing was done to remove debris from carburettor.
    First deserve, then desire.

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    Air filter is for air not for fuel as fuel clears the fresh air got in walllaaa she started simple

    Sent from my iPhone 5 using PW Forums mobile App

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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    So did the bike become over because of debris and carburettor started rejecting extra fuel through drain pipe and air intake pipe? But how the bike started after air filter chamber was cleared of all fuel? Nothing was done to remove debris from carburettor.
    it means the debris flushed away with the gasoline which exposed into filter compartment as it has huge opening compared to the drain pipe... but still petrol shouldn't hv reached in the filter ...that's weird ... didn't u ask suzuki ustaad why there's fuel in filter .. it should only drain via dain pipe...
    Rise from the ashes,.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by abdulrehmanrauf View Post
    Its strange, reading it first time that if engine wont get upto full heat and oil become dirtier much quicker. Where on the internet you find this, can you please share the link of that website.

    In this perspective, If I use my car for shorter distances then should I change its oil after 2000 kms since we normally change at 4000km interval.
    Since we are discussing about "Bikes", that was meant only for bikes. And its logical as well. Bikes have a small engine and oil doesn't regulate as much as cars, plus the oil does a harder job in these bikes than a car. Ever wondered why a Havoline in a BIKE barely crosses 1000 but same oil in Car (in 4 times more quantity ofcourse) can go well beyond 4000? I think you get the point.

    See, in bikes, ONE OIL is lubricating engine, Clutch and Gears. Oil has cleaning agents in them too which avoid the inner side of the engine to get condensed, but that only happens once the oil gets upto an optimum temperature. (The thicker the oil, the longer it'll take to get upto optimum heat. For example, a 10W-40 will get heated quicker than a 20W-50 but since we are in pakistan where temperature in winters can go well beyond 40 or 45 sometimes ... we opt for 20W-50 for better performance in extreme conditions. This is why 10W-40 will make the engine scream more in winters)

    I read it on CG125.AwardSpace page, and also on a Wikipedia page regarding Motoroils, which also mentioned the same thing about Cars.

    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    This is debatable, I guess. Because we have members here who have a successful relationship with their engine oils giving them 2,000 - 3,000 km drain interval happily. And yes, they do take proper care of their machines and would not compromise on their performance.
    Debatable yes. But i think depends on the environment too. I have never seen a bike of our class in Lahore crossing 1500kms even on the best engine oils before starting to have performance issues (quicker engine heatup, more screaming, clutch slip etc). Did see a GS150 with my mechanic where a person got a LiquiMoly 4T Racing changed at 2k (he had brought his oil with him).

    Those people with 2500-3k kms drain interval may live in Islamabad or a place where there is less dirt and long rodes. Plus, that honda's awardspace page i posted above, clearly states that manufacturers' rated intervals for oil change should be taken as Absolute Max, and should be considered half (or more) than the mentioned.

    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Can you please explain how to judge whether there is any slippage in clutch plates? I mean how do you know clutch is slipping and engine oil has given up?
    In CG125, there is a huge problem where Clutch (and clutch lever) loosens its working when engine gets upto full heat. And if oil is not a good quality one or not doing its job properly, you'll have trouble launching the bike. CD70 main bhi yehi problem hay. Not sure if Suzuki bikes suffer from it. Technically a wet clutch will have this problem so ....
    Riders on the storm ... literally.

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    nice work bro i have the same issue...

    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Alright guys, my mind is totally boggled at today's findings. To cut long story short, guys at Suzuki showroom disconnected fuel pipe from fuel tank to carburettor in my GD, installed an external bottle and connected it with carburettor, filled it with 200 mL petrol from my GD, and rode it through the city, with me following on another bike. Astonishing for me, my GD covered 10.2 km in 200 mL, implying a fuel average of (10.2 X 5 =) 51 km/L! And the riding style of the Suzuki guy was exactly as mine: we drove at 60 km/h, passed through traffic, had to slow down, even climbed at least a kilometre-long bridge (Garrhi shahu bridge, Lahore, to be exact) TWICE (once on either side of the bridge)!

    Now I am sitting with my fuel average calculation data and today's figures I got from test, and I have no clue whatsoever on what is going on with my bike. Why do my calculations show a poor fuel average and the bike acted perfectly fine during the test? I'd like to add one more thing here: my GD is still doing 1.3 km on one full carburettor - the same as it was doing before reducing the mixture ratio from 2.25 turns to 1 turn only. Totally mind boggling!!!

    I am attaching my GD's refuelling data for your reference. I get it refuelled as early as possible once it runs in to reserve, and I compensate it by subtracting the fuel consumed under reserve from total fuel purchased while calculating the average. Each row contains fuel-average value for fuel purchased in the row above it. My formula for fuel-average calculation is: Total Distance Covered/[Fuel purchased in last row (current row - 1) - (Current distance covered under reserve/Fuel quantity in last row)]

    For example, the latest fuel average value comes from: 262/[6.39 - (5/36.11)] = 41.89 km/L only

    Please help me understand what's going on here!!!
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1274576

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    nice work bro i have the same issue...

    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Alright guys, my mind is totally boggled at today's findings. To cut long story short, guys at Suzuki showroom disconnected fuel pipe from fuel tank to carburettor in my GD, installed an external bottle and connected it with carburettor, filled it with 200 mL petrol from my GD, and rode it through the city, with me following on another bike. Astonishing for me, my GD covered 10.2 km in 200 mL, implying a fuel average of (10.2 X 5 =) 51 km/L! And the riding style of the Suzuki guy was exactly as mine: we drove at 60 km/h, passed through traffic, had to slow down, even climbed at least a kilometre-long bridge (Garrhi shahu bridge, Lahore, to be exact) TWICE (once on either side of the bridge)!

    Now I am sitting with my fuel average calculation data and today's figures I got from test, and I have no clue whatsoever on what is going on with my bike. Why do my calculations show a poor fuel average and the bike acted perfectly fine during the test? I'd like to add one more thing here: my GD is still doing 1.3 km on one full carburettor - the same as it was doing before reducing the mixture ratio from 2.25 turns to 1 turn only. Totally mind boggling!!!

    I am attaching my GD's refuelling data for your reference. I get it refuelled as early as possible once it runs in to reserve, and I compensate it by subtracting the fuel consumed under reserve from total fuel purchased while calculating the average. Each row contains fuel-average value for fuel purchased in the row above it. My formula for fuel-average calculation is: Total Distance Covered/[Fuel purchased in last row (current row - 1) - (Current distance covered under reserve/Fuel quantity in last row)]

    For example, the latest fuel average value comes from: 262/[6.39 - (5/36.11)] = 41.89 km/L only

    Please help me understand what's going on here!!!
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1274576

  19. #258
    TZB
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    Quote Originally Posted by imranabid4301 View Post
    nice work bro i have the same issue...
    Thanks, man.

    We (GD owners) have to live with poor milage of 40 - 45 km/L. Suzuki have accepted that GD does not give the dreamy fuel consumption of 60+ km/L like their local 110cc products. This is definitely to going to make GD a failed bike in Pakistan, unfortunately. It already comes at a humungous price tag, yet it is such a fuel guzzler. It is destined to doom due to its fuel consumption.
    First deserve, then desire.

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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    ...last night I got some "josh", went out and replaced my GD's engine oil replaced with KIXX Ultra 4T SL.

    Well, I haven't heard many guys appreciating this engine oil, but let's say I had no other choice as I went for oil change after 9 pm and market was almost closed. I asked for best 20W-50 oil, and I was given this. Let's see how it turns out to be. Shopkeeper recommended to drain it after at least 2,500 km. By the way, it costed PKR 575 for 1L cane.

    My Suzuki GD 110  -1271800My Suzuki GD 110  -1271799
    Guys, look at the engine oil condition after around 1,200 km (please excuse me for the blurred pictures, but it gives the idea):

    My Suzuki GD 110  -1295229

    My Suzuki GD 110  -1295230
    After coming home from office today, I decided to check engine oil's condition and see if it needs replacement. I was amazed to see engine oil retained its original colour after 1,200 km had been clocked on it. Plus, the oil felt thick and sticky on my fingers. Does the oil being sticky and thick mean it can still go on for a few more hundred km?
    First deserve, then desire.

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    yes that is what Ustaad log say and it is right thinking
    i would recommend do not exceed 1500km marker
    you must drain it immediately after 1500km

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