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Thread: My Suzuki GD 110.

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    Smile My Suzuki GD 110.

    Good day, everyone.

    I have made the long-awaited purchase of Suzuki GD 110 today, Alhamdu Lillah. I bought it from Empress Tower Suzuki, Lahore. It is the 7th GD here on Pak Wheels

    I call its colour love-red

    Suzuki GD 110 has indeed ushered us into a new era of motor-biking in Pakistan.

    Behold, a lot of performance reviews are coming your way. So stay tuned.

    Below are a few Suzuki GD 110 vs. Honda CD 100 (Pridor) reviews based on my experience of both:
    General Riding Experience.
    Frame Vibrations Transferred to Side-view Mirros.

    Gear Box - Transmission System.

    Features worth mentioning:
    Auto-Decompression System
    Suspension System.

    Pictures:
    Few more clicks.
    Some random clicks.
    Pictures after a Wash.

    My Solution to Kick Issue.

    Updates:
    Extremely Poor Fuel Consumption.

    Attached Images Attached Images                
    First deserve, then desire.

  2. #261
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    AoA Everybody

    Kindly allow me to offer my two cents on the subject. there is a very common misconception that oil quality degrades after certain use. well....this misconception is only partially true. in reality, oil molecule be it synthetic or mineral never degrades. it retains its shape and hence its ability to lubricate even after thousands and thousands of kilometers. it is the engine break-down debris and combustion residue that contaminates the oil and significantly affects its ability to lubricate.

    in a typical modern vehicle, oil lubricates, collects engine break-down debris and combustion residue then passes through the oil filter, trapping all the harmful stuff there (atleast in theory). most studies have shown that engine wear is actually caused by these suspended objects (in oil) and the most harm is caused by the engine break-down debris with particle size of one nanometer or less. why its the most harmful? well....one, it is metal and acts as mini-grinders. second, they are so small that they cannot be trapped by a typical oil filter.

    so...whats the moral of the story? well..... its not the life of oil, its the contamination that necessitates changing of oil. so.... the sooner we change the oil, the more we will prolong the life of the engine.

    Now lets apply this to motorcycles:

    in motorcycles the oil filters are hardly efficient enough to clean the oil properly. some even don't have oil filters to begin with. meaning there is no mechanism to collect the BAD STUFF and prolong the life of the engine lubricant. secondly, motorcycles engines (single cylinder specially) are run at way higher rpms, meaning elevated temperatures and speedier break-down of engine components, meaning higher quantity of engine break-down debris/particles in the lubricant. finally, the oil is used to lubricate gearbox as well which adds more strain to the stressed lubricant.

    having said all that, if the recommended drain interval (for a given oil) in a vehicle is say 4,000 kilometers then for a single cylinder motorcycle it should not be more than 1000 kilometers. if the motorcycle is provided with an oil filter then it should not be stretched any more than 1500 kilometers.

    Remember: its not the quality of the oil that matters. its the contamination. synthetics and higher quality mineral oil just have better viscosity indexes and can lubricate through a wide range of operating temperatures. secondly, they also resist (oil) oxidation therefore reduce the quantity of combustion reside in the lubricant but offer no protection against engine break-down debris. which is a fact of life as far as engines are concerned.

    Moral of the Story:

    its pointless to use super expensive super synthetic engine oils for single cylinder motorcycles no matter how many gazillion kilometers of drain interval they offer. just use any adequate quality engine oil. in my humble opinion, just use any medium range (350 to 500) rupee range lubricant and change after every 1000 kilometers or 1500km if your bike has an oil filter. thats that best you can do.

    Regards.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 12gauge View Post
    AoA Everybody

    Kindly allow me to offer my two cents on the subject.
    Moral of the Story:

    its pointless to use super expensive super synthetic engine oils for single cylinder motorcycles no matter how many gazillion kilometers of drain interval they offer. just use any adequate quality engine oil. in my humble opinion, just use any medium range (350 to 500) rupee range lubricant and change after every 1000 kilometers or 1500km if your bike has an oil filter. thats that best you can do.

    Regards.
    Dear 12gauge, thank you for your invaluable input on the subject. May I have another query answered? Mineral oil or synthetic oil? Why?

    After first oil change, I used SGO (Suzuki Genuine Oil) which is supplied by Total, Pakistan. It is a 10W-40 oil; however, I wasn't satisfied with its performance. So next time I got Kixx 4T Ultra (20W-50) for my bike and so far I have done ~1,500 km on it. I am much satisfied with its performance even at 1,500 km mark. My question is: should I continue using a synthetic oil (Kixx 4T Ultra) which I am quite satisfied with, or use everyone's recommended mineral oil, Havoline 20W-50? There is a difference of mere PKR 20 in their prices But Havoline is hardly good for 1,000 km and starts begging for draining, while Kixx has gone upto 1,500 km seemlessly.

    I may sound partial towards Kixx, but please advise me which one to select. My objective is to obtain maximum engine care.
    First deserve, then desire.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Dear 12gauge, thank you for your invaluable input on the subject. May I have another query answered? Mineral oil or synthetic oil? Why?

    After first oil change, I used SGO (Suzuki Genuine Oil) which is supplied by Total, Pakistan. It is a 10W-40 oil; however, I wasn't satisfied with its performance. So next time I got Kixx 4T Ultra (20W-50) for my bike and so far I have done ~1,500 km on it. I am much satisfied with its performance even at 1,500 km mark. My question is: should I continue using a synthetic oil (Kixx 4T Ultra) which I am quite satisfied with, or use everyone's recommended mineral oil, Havoline 20W-50? There is a difference of mere PKR 20 in their prices But Havoline is hardly good for 1,000 km and starts begging for draining, while Kixx has gone upto 1,500 km seemlessly.

    I may sound partial towards Kixx, but please advise me which one to select. My objective is to obtain maximum engine care.
    With regards to kixx, I believe @moon can help u out.... I think he is the one using it in his gs150

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    Smile Third Engine Oil - First Engine Oil Filter.

    Guys, I changed engine oil and filter today: engine oil after 1,600 km and oil filter after ~3,500 km. After being satisfied with Kixx 4T Ultra 20W-50, I went for it again this time. I got oil filter from Suzuki showroom for PKR 145, while engine oil costed me PKR 450.

    Oil filter:
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299676
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299677
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299678

    Oil filter compartment:
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299679

    Engine oil filter after 3,500 km of use:
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299680
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299681
    First deserve, then desire.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Guys, I changed engine oil and filter today: engine oil after 1,600 km and oil filter after ~3,500 km. After being satisfied with Kixx 4T Ultra 20W-50, I went for it again this time. I got oil filter from Suzuki showroom for PKR 145, while engine oil costed me PKR 450.

    Oil filter:
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299676
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299677
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299678

    Oil filter compartment:
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299679

    Engine oil filter after 3,500 km of use:
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299680
    My Suzuki GD 110  -1299681
    its mean that orignal oil comes from Indonesia ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Dear 12gauge, thank you for your invaluable input on the subject. May I have another query answered? Mineral oil or synthetic oil? Why?

    After first oil change, I used SGO (Suzuki Genuine Oil) which is supplied by Total, Pakistan. It is a 10W-40 oil; however, I wasn't satisfied with its performance. So next time I got Kixx 4T Ultra (20W-50) for my bike and so far I have done ~1,500 km on it. I am much satisfied with its performance even at 1,500 km mark. My question is: should I continue using a synthetic oil (Kixx 4T Ultra) which I am quite satisfied with, or use everyone's recommended mineral oil, Havoline 20W-50? There is a difference of mere PKR 20 in their prices But Havoline is hardly good for 1,000 km and starts begging for draining, while Kixx has gone upto 1,500 km seemlessly.

    I may sound partial towards Kixx, but please advise me which one to select. My objective is to obtain maximum engine care.
    Bro, synthetic oil will always give better lubrication compared to mineral based engine oils. therefore if possible use synthetic lubricants only. on the same note, if you are satisfied with kixx then there is no need to change it. in my humble opinion, kixx, zic and similar others are fine medium quality and appropriately priced lubricants which are absolutely fine for single cylinder engines.

    you may opt for other high quality (read: super expensive) synthetic oils but they will not offer any additional benefit as far extending the life of the engine is concerned.

    Regards.

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    Very stupid argument..This shows that the engine manufacturers are bunch of idiots who after constant tests give a manufacturer recommended DRAIN interval..Oil drain before that is completely normal and doesnot harm the engine..I have my fair share of experience with oils,You just have to drain them at recommended intervals and you are alright,that is the case my woo has not had an overhaul though it has clocked 150k kms..

    Most bikes have a recommended manufacturer drain of 2k kms and some even exceed that (GS-150),now every oil out there(the local ones) do not have the capacity to clock this much miles without shearing down to very low viscosity values so they have to be drained earlier..

    Also all local oils are not 100% virgin..They are a mixed of new base oil + re-refined used oils which renders them unable to clock high miles..

    ANy good quality mineral or semisynthetic is higly recommended..Clocking 1.5k kms on quality oils is perfectly safe and saves you the costs and hassle of draining again and again after 600 Kms..

    There is a visible difference b/w local and imported oils..You will experience it when you actually use them..

    The chondas and local bikes do house an oil filtering mechanism a.k.a the centrifugal oil filer in addition to the jalli.
    The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status, is that, deep down inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by devilskreed View Post
    Very stupid argument..This shows that the engine manufacturers are bunch of idiots who after constant tests give a manufacturer recommended DRAIN interval..Oil drain before that is completely normal and doesnot harm the engine..I have my fair share of experience with oils,You just have to drain them at recommended intervals and you are alright,that is the case my woo has not had an overhaul though it has clocked 150k kms..

    Most bikes have a recommended manufacturer drain of 2k kms and some even exceed that (GS-150),now every oil out there(the local ones) do not have the capacity to clock this much miles without shearing down to very low viscosity values so they have to be drained earlier..

    Also all local oils are not 100% virgin..They are a mixed of new base oil + re-refined used oils which renders them unable to clock high miles..

    ANy good quality mineral or semisynthetic is higly recommended..Clocking 1.5k kms on quality oils is perfectly safe and saves you the costs and hassle of draining again and again after 600 Kms..

    There is a visible difference b/w local and imported oils..You will experience it when you actually use them..

    The chondas and local bikes do house an oil filtering mechanism a.k.a the centrifugal oil filer in addition to the jalli.
    Hmm 100% agreed

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    Quote Originally Posted by 12gauge View Post
    Bro, synthetic oil will always give better lubrication compared to mineral based engine oils. therefore if possible use synthetic lubricants only. on the same note, if you are satisfied with kixx then there is no need to change it. in my humble opinion, kixx, zic and similar others are fine medium quality and appropriately priced lubricants which are absolutely fine for single cylinder engines.

    you may opt for other high quality (read: super expensive) synthetic oils but they will not offer any additional benefit as far extending the life of the engine is concerned.

    Regards.
    Brother try using silkolene pro plus fully synthetic in your bike then you'll understand what a good quality oil can do for your bike. Using SGO in my bike infuriated me, the bike was behaving too badly

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using PW Forums mobile app

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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by mansor View Post
    its mean that orignal oil comes from Indonesia ?
    Yes, engine oil filter is being imported from Indonesia.

    Quote Originally Posted by 12gauge View Post
    Bro, synthetic oil will always give better lubrication compared to mineral based engine oils. therefore if possible use synthetic lubricants only. on the same note, if you are satisfied with kixx then there is no need to change it. in my humble opinion, kixx, zic and similar others are fine medium quality and appropriately priced lubricants which are absolutely fine for single cylinder engines.

    you may opt for other high quality (read: super expensive) synthetic oils but they will not offer any additional benefit as far extending the life of the engine is concerned.

    Regards.
    Thanks, bro. I am sticking with Kixx 4T Ultra 20W-50 I was concerned whether I should use a lighter grade oil in winters, but the owner at engine oil dealership suggested this oil is good to use round the year.


    Quote Originally Posted by devilskreed View Post
    Very stupid argument..This shows that the engine manufacturers are bunch of idiots who after constant tests give a manufacturer recommended DRAIN interval..Oil drain before that is completely normal and doesnot harm the engine..I have my fair share of experience with oils,You just have to drain them at recommended intervals and you are alright,that is the case my woo has not had an overhaul though it has clocked 150k kms..

    ANy good quality mineral or semisynthetic is higly recommended..Clocking 1.5k kms on quality oils is perfectly safe and saves you the costs and hassle of draining again and again after 600 Kms..

    There is a visible difference b/w local and imported oils..You will experience it when you actually use them..
    Agreed, bro. Manufacture-recommended drain intervals should be followed religiously for longer life of engine and a joyful riding experience. I shared engine oil's condition at around 1,500 km mark here. It didn't turn black and it was still viscous. Currently Kixx is coming from Korea; if it becomes famous, do expect its local version too

    And yes, there is a hell lot of difference in quality of local and imported oils. I only used Havoline or Honda's oil in my Honda CD 100; it always came out as "black water" after draining it at even below 1,000 km mark

    Quote Originally Posted by ammarzahid View Post
    Brother try using silkolene pro plus fully synthetic in your bike then you'll understand what a good quality oil can do for your bike. Using SGO in my bike infuriated me, the bike was behaving too badly
    I didn't like SGO either, it's a 10W-40 oil. I indeed find Kixx 4T Ultra a fine quality oil. It has give me trouble-free 1,600 km drain interval. But next time I'll try to stick to the 1,500 km mark. The extra 100 km were clocked only due to my laziness to go out and get the oil changed
    First deserve, then desire.

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    @TZB oil turning black is a good sign that oil is performing its job..An oil which doest not change color is a matter of great concern..At 1.5k oil should be dark
    The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status, is that, deep down inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.

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    Can zic 4T be used for winters only

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    Quote Originally Posted by SyedMoazzam View Post
    Can zic 4T be used for winters only
    You can try it out..
    The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status, is that, deep down inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by devilskreed View Post
    You can try it out..
    Ok try karu ga summers may buhat bura experience rha hay is k sath

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    hello guys i want my gd 110 to look a bit heavy, what should i do....i asked many people about replacing the existing tyre with a thicker and broader one but none replied in positive..what should i do??

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    Quote Originally Posted by rehantariq123 View Post
    hello guys i want my gd 110 to look a bit heavy, what should i do....i asked many people about replacing the existing tyre with a thicker and broader one but none replied in positive..what should i do??
    If your rear tyre is 2.75 6 ply its more than enough..Using a thicker tyre would gain you nothing
    The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status, is that, deep down inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rehantariq123 View Post
    hello guys i want my gd 110 to look a bit heavy, what should i do....i asked many people about replacing the existing tyre with a thicker and broader one but none replied in positive..what should i do??
    A thicker tyre will only temporarily impress the person behind your bike and give u a sense of satisfaction, but will
    1. drastically increase your fuel consumption
    2. Reduce bike's initial pick
    3. Reduce the engine's life

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    Quote Originally Posted by dr.omair View Post
    A thicker tyre will only temporarily impress the person behind your bike and give u a sense of satisfaction, but will
    1. drastically increase your fuel consumption
    2. Reduce bike's initial pick
    3. Reduce the engine's life
    I was also considering changing my GD's rear tyre to size 3.00, but the 3rd point in above list is such a turn-off to me. Bro, will you please expand on it? I mean what has the tyre size got to do with engine's life?

    Because what I think a bigger tyre would do is add extra friction for engine to overcome, but that's exactly what engine does during pillion riding. Of course a tyre wouldn't put that much load on an engine as a pillion rider would. Just my thoughts.
    First deserve, then desire.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    I was also considering changing my GD's rear tyre to size 3.00, but the 3rd point in above list is such a turn-off to me. Bro, will you please expand on it? I mean what has the tyre size got to do with engine's life?

    Because what I think a bigger tyre would do is add extra friction for engine to overcome, but that's exactly what engine does during pillion riding. Of course a tyre wouldn't put that much load on an engine as a pillion rider would. Just my thoughts.
    Bro, first of all, u need to understand that these small bore commuters are meant to transport u from point A to B, these are not performance machines... But ofcourse, due to our economic conditions, we see these bikes being abused to the limits. for instance, I see dhoodh walas and even bakery/grocery distributers overloading poor 70cc motorcycles, but try inquiring how frequently do their engines need overhauls....

    Adding a fatter tyre doesnot simply increase the bike's weight, so comparing it to adding a pillion rider is not a good analogy.... Rather, one needs to understand that the bike's engine has to produce more torque for rotating the heavier tyre, and hence adding to the strain. Ofcourse, your engine wont be blown off in a day, so the strain will go unnoticed for a while
    U can install a hayabusa tyre to your gd, its 110cc engine will definitely rotate it, but under stress.... Hence it will lead to the 3 consequences that i listed in my previous post...
    U own a good bike, its engine is imported and alot more durable that the local bikes here. Take good care of it and it to serve you well for years to come
    Regards

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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Because what I think a bigger tyre would do is add extra friction for engine to overcome, but that's exactly what engine does during pillion riding.
    Quote Originally Posted by dr.omair View Post
    Adding a fatter tyre doesnot simply increase the bike's weight, so comparing it to adding a pillion rider is not a good analogy.... Rather, one needs to understand that the bike's engine has to produce more torque for rotating the heavier tyre, and hence adding to the strain.
    Bro, I did mention engine would have to overcome more friction, which in turn means more torque (or rotational energy) required.

    A small experiment would be to put 10 kg in a trolly when you go shopping Hyper Star or any mart, and roll it down some distance. Next, double the weight and repeat the roll thing. Now again put 10 kilos of stuff in the trolley, this time doubling the wheel base, and push it through the same distance. (I am not suggesting you actually change the cart's wheels, but) intuitively speaking, increasing wheel base wouldn't require you to add a significant amount of force to push the cart. However you would feel the need to push with more force when you double the load without altering the wheel base.

    Based on this argument, a pillion rider would cause more trouble to engine than just increasing the wheel base. Engine would be happy to carry the same load despite the rear tyre offering a slightly increased friction (or stress, so to speak).

    PS: I am happy to see a medical professional having interest in Physics (mechanics, in particular)
    First deserve, then desire.

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