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Thread: My Suzuki GD 110.

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    TZB
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    Smile My Suzuki GD 110.

    Good day, everyone.

    I have made the long-awaited purchase of Suzuki GD 110 today, Alhamdu Lillah. I bought it from Empress Tower Suzuki, Lahore. It is the 7th GD here on Pak Wheels

    I call its colour love-red

    Suzuki GD 110 has indeed ushered us into a new era of motor-biking in Pakistan.

    Behold, a lot of performance reviews are coming your way. So stay tuned.

    Below are a few Suzuki GD 110 vs. Honda CD 100 (Pridor) reviews based on my experience of both:
    General Riding Experience.
    Frame Vibrations Transferred to Side-view Mirros.

    Gear Box - Transmission System.

    Features worth mentioning:
    Auto-Decompression System
    Suspension System.

    Pictures:
    Few more clicks.
    Some random clicks.
    Pictures after a Wash.

    My Solution to Kick Issue.

    Updates:
    Extremely Poor Fuel Consumption.

    Attached Images Attached Images                
    First deserve, then desire.

  2. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Bro, I did mention engine would have to overcome more friction, which in turn means more torque (or rotational energy) required.

    A small experiment would be to put 10 kg in a trolly when you go shopping Hyper Star or any mart, and roll it down some distance. Next, double the weight and repeat the roll thing. Now again put 10 kilos of stuff in the trolley, this time doubling the wheel base, and push it through the same distance. (I am not suggesting you actually change the cart's wheels, but) intuitively speaking, increasing wheel base wouldn't require you to add a significant amount of force to push the cart. However you would feel the need to push with more force when you double the load without altering the wheel base.

    Based on this argument, a pillion rider would cause more trouble to engine than just increasing the wheel base. Engine would be happy to carry the same load despite the rear tyre offering a slightly increased friction (or stress, so to speak).

    PS: I am happy to see a medical professional having interest in Physics (mechanics, in particular)
    Spot on!!!

    Theoretically as well as practically speaking, both the pillion rider and increased wheel base would add to increased stress. However, which one has more effect on increasing stress would depend on how heavy is the pillion vs how much wheel base increase one is going for
    Like i said before, try to keep the weight /wheel base as low as possible for optimum commuter performance
    Reduced mileage and engine pick are instant issues that one would notice, while shortened engine life is something u would notice probably after 30000 to 40000 kms. So, if u don't want to take long term effects into consideration, then go for the fatter tyre

    PS..... I used to be good at physics, but never studied it beyond A-levels

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    As a rule of thumb you should generally drive at 10 Kms less than you normally do without a pillion..It compensates for the increased engine stress.
    Increasing wheel base would without any-doubt add to engine stress but the manufacturer recommended size is the best for a ride..I have been driving my CD with 2.75 rear and till now no issues whatsoever regarding road grip or balance..Using wider tyre is just for mental satisfaction.
    The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status, is that, deep down inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.

  4. #283
    TZB
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    Quote Originally Posted by dr.omair View Post
    Spot on!!!

    Theoretically as well as practically speaking, both the pillion rider and increased wheel base would add to increased stress. However, which one has more effect on increasing stress would depend on how heavy is the pillion vs how much wheel base increase one is going for
    Like i said before, try to keep the weight /wheel base as low as possible for optimum commuter performance
    Reduced mileage and engine pick are instant issues that one would notice, while shortened engine life is something u would notice probably after 30000 to 40000 kms. So, if u don't want to take long term effects into consideration, then go for the fatter tyre

    PS..... I used to be good at physics, but never studied it beyond A-levels
    Agreed, an increased wheel base would indeed have an effect, but that would be minimal and visible only after several thousand kilometers have been clocked in new configuration. I am just looking for switching to 3.00 from 2.75. That's not a big increase. The width of tyre in contact with ground might increase by half an inch or so. What do you think?

    PS: Where did you do A-Levels from, and when? I did from Crescent, 2004 - 2006. In our times, we did have circular motion in Physics' syllabus, but not rotational motion (motion about an object's own axis).
    Quote Originally Posted by devilskreed View Post
    As a rule of thumb you should generally drive at 10 Kms less than you normally do without a pillion..It compensates for the increased engine stress.
    Increasing wheel base would without any-doubt add to engine stress but the manufacturer recommended size is the best for a ride..I have been driving my CD with 2.75 rear and till now no issues whatsoever regarding road grip or balance..Using wider tyre is just for mental satisfaction.
    Stable though it is, but it looks empty-ish from behind with the stock 2.75 tyre. It would look better with a 3.00 tyre, and would add to its stability at high speed and sudden braking with the immediate downside effect of increased fuel consumption on an already fuel-thirsty machine.
    First deserve, then desire.

  5. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Agreed, an increased wheel base would indeed have an effect, but that would be minimal and visible only after several thousand kilometers have been clocked in new configuration. I am just looking for switching to 3.00 from 2.75. That's not a big increase. The width of tyre in contact with ground might increase by half an inch or so. What do you think?

    PS: Where did you do A-Levels from, and when? I did from Crescent, 2004 - 2006. In our times, we did have circular motion in Physics' syllabus, but not rotational motion (motion about an object's own axis).
    Switching from 2.75 to 3.00 is no big deal, just consult a few senior members here such as Silver_Knife who added a fatter tyre and complained that the bike slipped alot, especially while braking at turns....

    PS: I did my A-Levels from Salamat School System, from 2001-2003

  6. #285
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    Guys, need expert advise on how to keep my motor bike in storage for one month as I'll be away from my bike for a month. Things which come to my mind:

    1- Disconnect battery
    2- Turn fuel knob to off position
    3- Cover her to save her from dust

    Please let me know what I'm missing here.
    First deserve, then desire.

  7. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Guys, need expert advise on how to keep my motor bike in storage for one month as I'll be away from my bike for a month. Things which come to my mind:

    1- Disconnect battery
    2- Turn fuel knob to off position
    3- Cover her to save her from dust

    Please let me know what I'm missing here.
    Sell it. When you return buy a CG E2.

  8. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Guys, need expert advise on how to keep my motor bike in storage for one month as I'll be away from my bike for a month. Things which come to my mind:

    1- Disconnect battery
    2- Turn fuel knob to off position
    3- Cover her to save her from dust

    Please let me know what I'm missing here.
    Please manual may daikhay us may kikha hota hay
    I would advise to take out all the petrol from the tank as it will form sludge inside the tank if remained unused for that much amount of time

  9. #288
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    As salam o alaikum to all, i would like to know if there is any issue u r facing with GD110, plus can u tell me what is correct method to complete the initial running.
    Take M3 2 th3 L1mits

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    Quote Originally Posted by solidmachine View Post
    As salam o alaikum to all, i would like to know if there is any issue u r facing with GD110, plus can u tell me what is correct method to complete the initial running.
    For running, follow the procedure mentioned in the owner's manual of Suzuki GD 110 which sort of says:
    Do not exceed the 40 km/h speed limit; do not let the engine get overheated; do not rev the throttle by more than one-third of the rotation limit - all this for the first 1,000 km.

    Even after you are done with the running period, keep your average riding speed between 60 - 80 km/h for longer and trouble-free engine life. Good luck

    Problems faced so far:
    1- Mud splashes on engine and body due to inappropriate front and rear fenders
    2- Poor fuel economy. It only does 40 - 45 km/L at the best
    3- Inappropriate seat design which causes pain in the back especially for riders who are tall

    PS: These are the problems which I have faced. Others may differ.
    First deserve, then desire.

  11. #290
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    How is ur GD going? Plz give a review

  12. #291
    TZB
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    Quote Originally Posted by aqibasit View Post
    How is ur GD going? Plz give a review
    Brother, this whole thread and Suzuki GD 110 Fan Club are dedicated to performance reviews and discussions on issues faced so far with this machine. Please browse both threads in detail for more information.

    I can only summarize that I only find it a little uncomfortable, fuel-thirsty, and has a poorly designed pair of fenders compared to my Honda CD 100 which I owned prior to buying Suzuki GD 110. Besides these issues, I am fairly satisfied with it. Alhamdu Lillah.
    First deserve, then desire.

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    It is a very good bike but in each bike problems will be found because every person's riding style and sitting posture is different

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    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Brother, this whole thread and Suzuki GD 110 Fan Club are dedicated to performance reviews and discussions on issues faced so far with this machine. Please browse both threads in detail for more information.

    I can only summarize that I only find it a little uncomfortable, fuel-thirsty, and has a poorly designed pair of fenders compared to my Honda CD 100 which I owned prior to buying Suzuki GD 110. Besides these issues, I am fairly satisfied with it. Alhamdu Lillah.
    Have you tried mixing hi-octane with normal petrol ? This can improve fuel average.
    Body kits available for all cars...
    PM for details

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    Quote Originally Posted by aqibasit View Post
    Have you tried mixing hi-octane with normal petrol ? This can improve fuel average.
    Good idea
    Why not for once check the mileage on hi octane alone
    It will be heavy on the pocket but do check it
    If there is significant improvement then it means that this engine prefers hi octane

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    Yes talked to a owner of GD, he is mixing hi-octane with petrol and getting around 60kmpl
    Body kits available for all cars...
    PM for details

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    Quote Originally Posted by aqibasit View Post
    Yes talked to a owner of GD, he is mixing hi-octane with petrol and getting around 60kmpl
    What is the mixing ratio brother

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    Quote Originally Posted by SyedMoazzam View Post
    What is the mixing ratio brother
    He was standing at traffic signal so couldnt ask. Try 50-50 ratio
    Body kits available for all cars...
    PM for details

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    brother i have read on different sites for lubrication and everyone reccomending to use 10w40 oil in winter because it is thin and 20w40 grade oil in summer due to its thickness i was using suzuki genuine oil in my bike but i was not satisfied with its performance today i have bought kixx ultra 4T and i'll share my experience after 1500km

    Quote Originally Posted by TZB View Post
    Dear 12gauge, thank you for your invaluable input on the subject. May I have another query answered? Mineral oil or synthetic oil? Why?

    After first oil change, I used SGO (Suzuki Genuine Oil) which is supplied by Total, Pakistan. It is a 10W-40 oil; however, I wasn't satisfied with its performance. So next time I got Kixx 4T Ultra (20W-50) for my bike and so far I have done ~1,500 km on it. I am much satisfied with its performance even at 1,500 km mark. My question is: should I continue using a synthetic oil (Kixx 4T Ultra) which I am quite satisfied with, or use everyone's recommended mineral oil, Havoline 20W-50? There is a difference of mere PKR 20 in their prices But Havoline is hardly good for 1,000 km and starts begging for draining, while Kixx has gone upto 1,500 km seemlessly.

    I may sound partial towards Kixx, but please advise me which one to select. My objective is to obtain maximum engine care.

  20. #299
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    disagree....mera b yahi program tha par us se petrol average kam ho gi

    Quote Originally Posted by rehantariq123 View Post
    hello guys i want my gd 110 to look a bit heavy, what should i do....i asked many people about replacing the existing tyre with a thicker and broader one but none replied in positive..what should i do??

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    @imranabid4301 i sale my pridor and need to purchase new bike , kaya aap gujrat city main rehty hain ? main aap ki bike ki test ride aik dafa karna chahta hon , kaya aap mujhe test ride karwa sakty hain ?
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/bik...-honest-advice

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