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Thread: 99 Vitz vaceum pipe problem.

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    Default 99 Vitz vaceum pipe problem.

    Hi all, i just bought 99 Vitz, when i clean my car's engine, i saw blue color electric switch hooked with airfilter box, this switch is vaceum type saw 2 pipes "upper & lower" on that, but in my case i saw only 1 vacum pipe goes in air manifold from that switch on upper side of switch, 2nd is not inserted on that & only left with black round box, when i put it on blue switch lower side pipe & drive da car its auto shifting making missbehave like no kickdown when floor excel padel, i think this switch is linked with auto trans, but problem is i do'nt know correct vaccum pipe mean upper or lower side? i checked many vitz engine but i found different switchs in that, so i decided if any PW member may help me by pics, my Vitz's engine's exaust manifold is header pipe type also, others Vitz i found cast iron type manifold (just for engine type). attaching switch & pipe pics also, plz help if any PW member have like my 99 Vitz plz guide me by pic then better, Thax.


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    99 Vitz vaceum pipe problem -169446 99 Vitz vaceum pipe problem -169447

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    by the looks of it and the wire colours - its a purge solenoid - the vacuum pipe should be coming from the charcoal canisters "close" valve.

    One thing is for sure - this is not anything concerned to the A/T
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    then why it not doing kickdown some time?

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    your kick down is controlled by the throttle position sensor and the transmission pressure cable combined (if equipped - some Vitz had them some not)

    this part for sure is for the purge (follow the vacuum lines to where they go)
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    this thingy got two vaccum typo pipe connected
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    I heared tik tik type sound, in blue electric switch some time, there's 2 vaccum pipes 1 from intake manifold to blue switch, then 2nd goes to black canister, last day i noticed no effect on kickdown put on or off pipes from black canister, so am sure its not conserned to A/T, some time car change gear very properly & doin kick down fine, but some time its not, one auto trans expert mechnanic says change ATF fluid with geniune T4 so i also change ATF, with toyota geniune T4, i saw kickdown cable with axcelater padel in many cars, but its not fitted any kind of thing, not see any other vaccum pipe may be TPS sensor needs cleaning?

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    TPS has nothing to be cleaning its the air flow sensor which needs to cleaned asnd for tick tick will be increase a bit wth age of engine its normal for these toyota engines though too abnormal loud is not good means valve clearance need some attention
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    Sorry for digging this thread.

    Actually i wanted to ask you people that my vitz has not got the vacuum bottle at all. It is missing.

    The cables from the blue switch are looped back and not going anywhere.
    The problem is that with AC on when i start to accelerate the car, the car vibrates alot and does not move forward even on petrol. As soon as i turn the AC off, it comes back to normal. Has it anything to do with the vacuum bottle?
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    your problem is more of the idle speed control system, does your engine regulate idle speed when cold?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    your problem is more of the idle speed control system, does your engine regulate idle speed when cold?
    Zulfiqar bhai, i feel improvement in my car's performance when it is cold especially early in the morning. But once the engine gets hot the performance of the car drops.

    When the car is in standing position in Parking mode and i turn on the AC, the RPM remains fine, but as soon as i put the gear in "D", the cars RPM starts fluctuating. When i push the pedal to move the car, it wont simply move, the car shivers and vibrates alot and then i have to turn off the AC.

    Sometimes, even without AC the car gives up on inclined road or deep curves. I believe it has something to do with power steering load too. On curves when i rotate the steering fully and press the pedal, the car gives up. The problem is not only on CNG but on petrol too.

    Can u help in this regard please?
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    Zulfiqar bhai, the vaccum bottle in my vitz is missing. It was like that since i bought this car.

    Please see below the pic


    99 Vitz vaceum pipe problem -257556

    I wanted to ask, what is the purpose of this vaccum bottle and its pipes?
    Just want to add that no pipe going to throttle body. And the input at throttle body is closed with a bolt.
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    That little bottle stores petrol vapour from the tank and the solenoid works from the ECU signal to allow the vapour to help in starting the engine. Its also used to create a vacuum in the tank to keep down emmissions of raw petrol.

    Your problem seems that the idle control valve is jammed in the throttle body, clean it with some carb cleaner and lube it with some engine oil.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    That little bottle stores petrol vapour from the tank and the solenoid works from the ECU signal to allow the vapour to help in starting the engine. Its also used to create a vacuum in the tank to keep down emmissions of raw petrol.

    Your problem seems that the idle control valve is jammed in the throttle body, clean it with some carb cleaner and lube it with some engine oil.

    I have already cleaned the ICV along with throttle body, but no improvements.
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    if you are having no idle load problems on your engine but stalls as soon soon as you put it in D then you should check the transmission itself or search for some other vacuum leaks too like a bad PCV and do not omit the MAF from the equation - if its bad or weak to sense - your engine will feel dead.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    if you are having no idle load problems on your engine but stalls as soon soon as you put it in D then you should check the transmission itself or search for some other vacuum leaks too like a bad PCV and do not omit the MAF from the equation - if its bad or weak to sense - your engine will feel dead.
    I am also having idle problem even if it is in P or N, the engine vibrates and it seems engine is losing power (This is with AC on). And when i put it is D mode, it stalls.

    I have also checked the MAF sensor, MAP sensor, OCV etcetera, they all are fine. Even checked after replacing them
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    In a situation like yours a wiring bridge is used on the ECU side and the data checked and compared with specs.

    As you said - that the MAF is checked and is good (I believe that you had it checked on live data or even an output situation,

    this engine does not have a MAP sensor - hence I'll omit that,
    and the OCV = oil control valve for VVTi (if it were stuck, you would have a very very lumpy idle, check engine light and a nearly blocked cat convertor as it gets dumped with raw unburnt fuel.

    Most problems are sourced back to vacuum leaks - please tell that is your check engine light lit up and make sure it is not jimmy rigged with something like the battery (alternator) light - Its very common in Pakistan to tie this light with something like the oil light or battery light to get rid of it in order to sell/fix the car.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    In a situation like yours a wiring bridge is used on the ECU side and the data checked and compared with specs.

    As you said - that the MAF is checked and is good (I believe that you had it checked on live data or even an output situation,

    this engine does not have a MAP sensor - hence I'll omit that,
    and the OCV = oil control valve for VVTi (if it were stuck, you would have a very very lumpy idle, check engine light and a nearly blocked cat convertor as it gets dumped with raw unburnt fuel.

    Most problems are sourced back to vacuum leaks - please tell that is your check engine light lit up and make sure it is not jimmy rigged with something like the battery (alternator) light - Its very common in Pakistan to tie this light with something like the oil light or battery light to get rid of it in order to sell/fix the car.


    As far as checking the MAF is concerned, it is checked by swapping the MAF sensors with another vitz of same model. But both cars responded the same as before.
    I have a very lumpy idle, even when moving the car seems underpowered. While i got it scanned it gave OCV error, but my mechanic said that if it was faulty then Check engine light would have lit up, but it didnt lit up. Considering that the check engine light may be faulty, we checked it and it was OK.
    And yes you are right about rigging the lights. My car's ABS was rigged with check engine light. Got it done now.
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    Quote Originally Posted by hannan84 View Post
    As far as checking the MAF is concerned, it is checked by swapping the MAF sensors with another vitz of same model. But both cars responded the same as before.
    I have a very lumpy idle, even when moving the car seems underpowered. While i got it scanned it gave OCV error, but my mechanic said that if it was faulty then Check engine light would have lit up, but it didnt lit up. Considering that the check engine light may be faulty, we checked it and it was OK.
    And yes you are right about rigging the lights. My car's ABS was rigged with check engine light. Got it done now.

    Theres your culprit - if the VVTi OCV is stuck - your idle quality and petrol consumption will go to the dogs
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    Theres your culprit - if the VVTi OCV is stuck - your idle quality and petrol consumption will go to the dogs

    Changed the OCV from another vitz too. Checked it, but no improvement.
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