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Thread: Toyota Vitz Engine 1KR-FE Rebuild is better than Half Assembly Swap

  1. #1
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    Default Toyota Vitz Engine 1KR-FE Rebuild is better than Half Assembly Swap

    Hi All
    Well there is a common term in the market which is too much famous that ( SILVER KA ENGINE HAI YEH REBUILT NAHE HOTA IS SAY ACHA HAY KABALI ASSEMBLY DAAL LO) . These are the word's which we hear if our vehicle's engine is damaged or near dying condition. Then a new chapter open's in which the Engine identification no is changed on the Registration Book.
    Keeping all of these factor's in mind I decided to rebuilt the engine of Toyota Vitz owned by my very honorable friend and Client Mr Faheem.
    We Disassemble the engine and found out the Damages caused by excessive knock issue's and also the PCV line was Clogged and No PCV Ventilation was there so faced a huge build up of Engine Oil Sludge On all part's.
    Problem's Detected when Engine was Disassembled.
    Problem's detected in cylinder Block.
    1: Oil Ring's were Gone The Induction and Compression Ring's were fine.
    2: Oil Pump Assy Was fine
    3: Piston's were scratched from the side Wall's.
    4: Crank Bearing's were all fine.
    5: Crank Shaft was Fine.
    6: Cylinder Bore need's to be polished up.
    7: Connector Rod's were fine No damage at all.

    Problem's Detected in Head Assy

    1: Valve seal's were Worn Out
    2: Valve Guide's were loose.
    3: Valve Seat's were fine but need to be polished.
    4: Both CAM Shaft's were fine no damage's at all.
    5: Head Face Was Perfect.

    Part's We Replaced.
    As The Piston's were not on the good condition we Decided to Install New Piston's and rebore the existing Cylinder .

    1: New Piston's of 0.50
    2: Cylinder Was Bored according to the New piston size.
    3: New Piston Ring Set.
    4: OEM Head Gasket
    5: Gen Kit Set for the whole engine
    6: Brand New Head Assy Bolt's
    7: Old Crank Bearing's were used as they were absolutely fine.
    8: Brand New OEM Valve's 0.25
    9: New Valve Seal's
    10: Valve guide's were Grind-ed with the oversize valve's.
    11: Changed the VVTi Cam Gear as the OLD One was Clogged with Oil Sludge. Tried to service it but it was waste of time.

    other stuff chaged

    1: Brand New Oxygen Sensor.


    The total Cost of this rebuild was 30 % lesser than the Price of Kabuli Assembly So I am Very satisfied with the Rebuild. has Completed it initial Break up and the engine now much smoother and powerful again.

    Total Rebuild Cost was 42000/-Pkr and additional 13500/-Pkr For the New Oxygen Sensor.


    I had given the link to the rebuild Video below
    https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=741663329241696

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    good, but I dont see any thick sludge, just a varnishing. very easily removed with dishwash soap and nylon brushes.

    I sincerely hope you did not attempt to seal the timing case and sump with general RTV as it wont work.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    No i didn't use the general rtv I got the original gaskit sealant provided by toyota. What do you recommend me to use for the servicing of vvt cam gear which had thick oil sludge. And also I am still working on for the common minor knocking issue in these engine's at low speeds. Plz suggest some solution for it also. Thats not the octane problem per my analysis.

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    dismount the VVT gear by first unlocking it with air pressure. the 4 front face bolts are a strange 5 pointed female torx, I have used bolt extractors to take them out and use new button head allen screws to secure it back Its nothing special except a few oil chambers, a lock pin with spring and 8 or 10 nylon riders with leaf springs on them. The diesel type knock you hear from the engine is due to the gear rattling from being worn out - you cannot buy the nylon riders or leaf springs that locate them.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    dismount the VVT gear by first unlocking it with air pressure. the 4 front face bolts are a strange 5 pointed female torx, I have used bolt extractors to take them out and use new button head allen screws to secure it back Its nothing special except a few oil chambers, a lock pin with spring and 8 or 10 nylon riders with leaf springs on them. The diesel type knock you hear from the engine is due to the gear rattling from being worn out - you cannot buy the nylon riders or leaf springs that locate them.
    Got it had serviced it correctly but the knock which I am talking about is a minor knock when cvt shifts to 5th below 40km. And that bung starts up a little knock a common problem with all vitz 1.0 1.3. KR and SZ series engine's running at stoich mixture configuration. Also I had updated the Ecu calibrations to newer version but no improvement in knock but huge improvement's in drive ability and fuel economy.

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    the knock you hear is not ignition knock but mechanical rattle
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the knock you hear is not ignition knock but mechanical rattle
    But in knock feed back value it it showing -10 I had analyzed many vitz and passo with knock issue in which the knock feed back value ranges from -4 to -14 in severe cases. If you add some fuel by active testing that knock vanishes.

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    kindly elaborate this " knock" issue for these 1kr engines .theres too much heresay going on in market about it ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by blueazure View Post
    kindly elaborate this " knock" issue for these 1kr engines .theres too much heresay going on in market about it ?
    Engine knock in the 2nd gen vitz is common due to so many factors. And the one key factor is Transmission shifts quickly in higher ratios which creates this knock. By re tunning it we can eliminate this engine knock. But every scenario is not same for every vehicle. So we had to diagnose it well before any repair procedures are carried out and false repair jobs are conducted.

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    ^^

    thanks , and what about the 3rd gen vitz ?

    does it happen in that ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by blueazure View Post
    ^^

    thanks , and what about the 3rd gen vitz ?

    does it happen in that ?
    Nop it has the issued pre resolved from the factory. No knocking at all because it is equipped with Air/Fuel Ratio sensor. Rather than the old oxygen sensor far more better than the 2nd gen vitz 1.0 L

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    Amazing thread.
    Bro can you tell me how to avoid knocking in second generation vitz. I have 2006, it's driven 150k. I have tried everything from hi octane fuel, engine cleaners and fully synthetic mobilone and liquimoly oils but no success. And knocks very badly now like when I accelerate the knocking sound comes continuously and is increasing day by day.

    Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk

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    Bro this knocking which u peoples are talking about is might be due to bad timing if it is not solved after using high octane fuel..because i have 3rd gen vitz (also used 2nd gen & 1st gen previously) this knocking and bad idling issue is also comes in 3rd gen after 10-15000 kms if u continously use 87 octane petrol in these 91-92 octane recommended cars by which the carbon deposits sits in the engine combustion chamber and exhaust catalytic and effects badly the car performance..my car(when freshly imported by myself 55000kms on odo) it was very responsive & smooth in idling but gradually after 10000kms it also starts bad idling and knocking problem then i fuel up its tank to full with high octane and believe me after 5-6 kms running car's bad idling & knocking was vanished completely and the responsiveness also improved..then i also changed cvt transmission oil with original toyota one( as recommended to change after each 40000kms) because my car was 68000kms on odo and the oil comes out from transmission was blackish..after that the cars performance reaches to its maximum and fuel economy also(13-14km/l with ac in city) now i use only hi octane in my car which is only 5 rs more in price so why may i ruin my car performance and engine...

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    Where are you from.. ! posts like this making my mind to purchase JDM car !

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    Hi
    Please share brand new Oxygen Sensor details OEM and where did you buy from?
    I am totally unable to find out whats the best O2 Front Sensor for my 2013 1KRFE engine on my Vitz with 36000 Kms.

    Please share knowledge

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    Quote Originally Posted by ssultanz View Post
    Hi
    Please share brand new Oxygen Sensor details OEM and where did you buy from?
    I am totally unable to find out whats the best O2 Front Sensor for my 2013 1KRFE engine on my Vitz with 36000 Kms.

    Please share knowledge
    First of all there are no Oxygen Sensor installed on 2013 vitz. Its Air Fuel Ratio sensor which is installed on 3rd gen vitz. And by the way the AFR sensors are desighned to last for 200k easily. What happened with your one

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    Default TOYOTA Vitz engine

    Salam all

    i HAVE A VITZ 08 MODEL AND MY VITZ ENGINE LOW I NOTCE 4500KMS ITS REDUCE BY 2 LTR AND A MECHNIC CHECK MY CAR SAID ring, pISTON NEED TO BE REPAIR OR SWAP A ASSEMBLY CAN ANY ONE TELL ME THE BETTER MECHNIC NEAR GULSHAN KARCHI AND ANY ONE HAVE IDEA HOW MUCH COST WILL BE OCCURED ..

    THANKS

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