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Thread: Vitz 2003 - Strange Overheat Scenario - Need Advice/Help

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    Default Vitz 2003 - Strange Overheat Scenario - Need Advice/Help

    Dear All, Need your help.

    I have a Vitz 2003. There is a strange overheating scenario.

    1. During Normal Driving (With or Without AC - Single / Two persons on board) : Car Behaves Normal

    2. During Fast Driving (High RPMs) and more than 2 people on board : Car starts to overheat. The Red Overheat light starts flashing. If i quickly get to Low rpms and start driving slow, it goes away, otherwise it eventually causes heatup and the water in radiator/reservior boils and evaporate.

    On highway this phenomenon even observed on 60km/h speed.

    Quite an annoying issue, need a fix.

    Already got the Radiator checked, its rust free.

    Car is Vitz 2003
    Milage : 100k KM
    Driven on : CNG+Petrol


    "Good Judgement Comes from Experience,
    And alot of Good Experience Comes from Bad Judgement"

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    Ok thx bro

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    Quote Originally Posted by venomdesire View Post
    Hi Ahsan,

    I am currently using a almost 50:50 mixture of Tap-Water and Diluted Osaka (It took 1.5 liters of coolant and some water for the whole system). Nothing else that i know of.

    As for the compression test, i'll try to locate a workshop that can do it for me in this week.

    Thirdly, i concluded about the radiator being rust free for 2 reasons:
    a. replaced it last year with a radiator from a half-cut , it was sparkling rust-free at that time.
    b. Currently drained the radiator, no sign of rust in the drainage water.

    Secondly it did have one overheat episode in which it automatically turned off, and refused to start (didnt take self) until it cooled down.

    Thats the point i want to stay away from Tazmanian Devil type mechanics.

    Well,
    you used prediluted coolant and then diluted it again? you need a mix of 50% coolant and water by volume.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by venomdesire View Post
    And there it went again last night -___- !

    Started blinking with AC on after half an hour of driving. When i turned AC off and lay my foot off the gas pedal, it stopped blinking. And this kept on going till Clifton ! i kept on turning AC on and Off. When i got home though i saw that water is still in radiator/bottle and it has not evaporated.

    Vitz 2003  Strange Overheat Scenario  Need AdviceHelp -1588133
    when the cold lamp goes off and you have driven for about 5 minutes, pop the bonnet open and try to press the radiator pipes. They should be hard. And the expansion tank should not be bubbling away or overflowing either.

    Check the water pump bleed hole for leakage.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Re-torque the cylinder head bolts.

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    You mean the Engine head bolts? Commonly referred to as "head ke bolts" ... ?
    or are there some others that need to be checked/re-torqued?


    Quote Originally Posted by shadab_lodhi View Post
    Re-torque the cylinder head bolts.
    "Good Judgement Comes from Experience,
    And alot of Good Experience Comes from Bad Judgement"

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    Quote Originally Posted by shadab_lodhi View Post
    Re-torque the cylinder head bolts.
    This engine uses torque to yield head bolts, they cannot be retorqued as they stay in their plastic state once torqued down. That is why it is critical to use a torque ratchet to get to the first torque of the bolts by following the torquing sequence and then the final tightening passes of the bolts are advised to be done in "ONE" motion only - that means that if the tightening is for 90 degrees, the mechanic needs to set his tool and workplace that the one fluid motion will complete the action, he should not do two 45 actions - that would render the bolt bad.


    The above reason is also why toyota actually tell you to measure the bolts and discard any that are stretched beyond specification.

    It is also highly critical to use the correct tool for the bolt heads, its not a regular "baar pael ki L key" - which usually means triple square. Toyota use bihex - it is 12 edged but the intersecting angles of the edges are different.

    trying to use an triple square on bi hex bolts usually lead to broken bolts or broken tools

    click here for my old thread on this
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Editted

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    Update:

    Though the car has stopped overheating now, i have a hunch it might be due to the weather cooling down in the city. In the past days it was well above 42-44 degrees in the day.

    Furthermore, Yesterday i got the car checked from a diagnostics center, he told me the car was all fine, with the exception of the MAP sensor going crazy due to CNG... The car had oil on its plug sockets due to the tappet cover being loose (some idiot forgot to tighten it).

    Thirdly upon my question of sluggish accelleration and slow gear change (gear tends to pull till high rpms), he told me that your advancer needs to be changed (currently i have Tedomaso installed), he advised me to go for Landi Renzo Step-300.

    Any advices on this one >
    "Good Judgement Comes from Experience,
    And alot of Good Experience Comes from Bad Judgement"

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