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Thread: Blue Smoke/Engine Burning Oil Vitz 2010

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    Default Blue Smoke/Engine Burning Oil Vitz 2010

    Salam: I owned Toyota Vitz 2010 in 2013 which was driven 23K according to ODO meter and now it is around 80K. Few days before I noticed during weekly checkup that car exhausts blue smoke when I raised its RPM to 35000, I also noticed that it reduce Engine Oil to 0.2 - 0.4 Liters during first 1000 KMs.

    I Checked it to Toyota Islamabad motors they said that Engine required overhauling and Piston rings needs to be changed.
    Same wording listens from other reliable mechanics.

    Both persons also suggest to replace engine.

    The current Engine is 1KR-FE 1.0L. The condition is very good. Good mileage, no vibration, no extra sound very smooth driving with or without A/C. I always use HI-Octane (never Mix with super). Use 20w-50 Zic Engine oil. Also check plugs they are also fine.

    Kindly suggest how can I save my existing Engine or what do you people think to overhauling it or replace with same one or 1.3L ?

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    But as far as I've read on international website of yaris and Toyota. People have generally disposed off 1kr and swapped with either a new 1kr or 1.3ltr. The 1kr engine is designed as a disposable engine with plastic resin and aluminum parts to keep the weight down to 69kg of the engine therefore once the engine goes out it better be replaced. Plus my experience of getting a overhaul has never been a good one. I believe no mechanic in Pakistan I capable of putting an engine like the Japanese do. But that's just my opinion.

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    Keep The Engine Assembly As It Is With You...

    Swap The Motor....At Time Of Sale.....Replace AGain..(Only Possible If You Can Run Car With Old Engine No Still On Book On Motorway)

    ALso Get The Point Straight That Engine You Get 'KABLI' Are Also Used Motor So Its Your Luck & Checking Which Can Get You Good Healthy Motor...Still Its Used And Don't Know When You Need To Rebuild It....! So Always Consider This Risk Also...

    If Engine Feel So Underpowered...Switching To 1.3L Is Good Idea.....Don't Forget With All This..You Always Have To Calculate Price Estimate If You Sale It As It Is And Get Another 1.3L Variant.....!
    TOYOTA Sprinter 86- AE80 DOHC 20v'D TOYOTA Corolla 98- AE101 4AFE 16v

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    Quote Originally Posted by oiqbal View Post
    But as far as I've read on international website of yaris and Toyota. People have generally disposed off 1kr and swapped with either a new 1kr or 1.3ltr. The 1kr engine is designed as a disposable engine with plastic resin and aluminum parts to keep the weight down to 69kg of the engine therefore once the engine goes out it better be replaced. Plus my experience of getting a overhaul has never been a good one. I believe no mechanic in Pakistan I capable of putting an engine like the Japanese do. But that's just my opinion.
    On the very same note, what assures you that the swapped kabali engine is one that won't give up after 15-20k kms. There is no guarantee to that as well. Those disposable engines are swapped with new engines, not kabali ones

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    Quote Originally Posted by oiqbal View Post
    But as far as I've read on international website of yaris and Toyota. People have generally disposed off 1kr and swapped with either a new 1kr or 1.3ltr. The 1kr engine is designed as a disposable engine with plastic resin and aluminum parts to keep the weight down to 69kg of the engine therefore once the engine goes out it better be replaced. Plus my experience of getting a overhaul has never been a good one. I believe no mechanic in Pakistan I capable of putting an engine like the Japanese do. But that's just my opinion.
    People Are Able To Do That.....They Can Be Skillful ...Thing Is No One Pays proper Attention....Motors Are Precisely Builds With Calculations Done In Thousands Of Mm...Here No One Goes Above Vernier Caliper And 40# Raigmaal

    Cylinder Honing Bore Check Rings Piston Size Calculation Valve Seat And SO Many Things Are Involved......No One Use Torbque Wrench...No Concept Of New Head Stud ...Reusing Stretched Studs And Then Crying When You Blow Gasket...!

    Rebuilding It All On Dirty Place Full Of Dust ...No Concept Of Using Engine Stand Cleaning ......

    Engine Rebuild Is Basically An ART Which Only Few Understand .....It Need You To Be Close To Perfect ...Rebuild Motors Long Another 300k Miles But Point Is ..If Done As It Should Be....!

    OE Parts Availability Is Also A Biggest Issue....Fakes And One Important Cheap Replacements Can RUIN Your Entire Rebuild....! And In End...People Want To Get Cars Fixed At Cost Of Cycle.....And This All Wont Come Cheap....!
    TOYOTA Sprinter 86- AE80 DOHC 20v'D TOYOTA Corolla 98- AE101 4AFE 16v

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZainMahdi View Post
    You still haven't posted compression figures for each cylinder.
    Compression test for each cylinder is 205-210

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    Quote Originally Posted by alinawaz83 View Post
    Compression test for each cylinder is 205-210
    Dry wet?

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    @dayrider there's no guarantee apart from the fact that Ive had the engine checked thoroughly and got a 1 month warranty during which I am testing it. But even if I wouldve gone for overhauling there's still no guarantee as SER_GTR has righty put the issues with engine overhauling and the major problem is the parts. Here in Pakistan mechanics recommend mixing engine oil with gear Oil for better lubrication of the gear box. Adding engine oil with diesel in jeeps for better performance and God knows what stupid things they've come up with. They would tell you that the catalytic converters are useless and everything and anything that doesn't make sense to them is useless and crap.

    So it's a risk my friend and after reading and discussing it with various mechanics and engine savvy people I just got into it. I spoke to a couple of people who had done the swap and are going good with 50k plus.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Dry wet?
    It is Dry and in psi

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    Compression looks excellent. After PCV valve cleaning/replacement, does it still smoke on high RPM?
    _ 22 km/l from '03 VTi automatic, with plenty of room for improvement
    _ How to hypermile: http://www.cleanmpg.com/community/index.php?threads/1510/

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    Compression does looks good but in these KR series engines Oil Rings worn out much quickly than expected and then comes the induction ring thay wears off after that. And compression ring still holds some of the juices. In end result compression is fine but Smoke is still there.


    These KR series engines and all other toyota & lexus engines are rebuildable it all depends on what kind of engine repair job is needed. The people on yaris forum just swap the engines because those toyota dealer ship charge more than 3k dollars for single rebuild. And swaps comes in 0.3 k dollars h
    There..

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    These CAT equipped vehicles can be easily diagnosed by looking at the color of the cat if it turns to be Ash like color than the rings are shooted and if it is pale yellow or orange color residue than it is normal and you had some other issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZainMahdi View Post
    Compression looks excellent. After PCV valve cleaning/replacement, does it still smoke on high RPM?
    Yes it smokes, and also having some missing on higher RPM

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    Guys I too have 2006 vitz. The car works perfectly fine. It's with me since 2010 and all of its maintenance has been done on timely manner. But, it knocks way too much though even on high octane and on regular fuel, it gives blue smoke upon acceleration. There is no check engine light, no reduction in engine according to dip stick and in fact the acceleration of the car is very good. Moreover the car is driven 150k kms and lastly there is high smell of burned petrol when standing besides the car. What could be the actual reason behind the blue smoke?

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nabeel_Ali View Post
    Guys I too have 2006 vitz. The car works perfectly fine. It's with me since 2010 and all of its maintenance has been done on timely manner. But, it knocks way too much though even on high octane and on regular fuel, it gives blue smoke upon acceleration. There is no check engine light, no reduction in engine according to dip stick and in fact the acceleration of the car is very good. Moreover the car is driven 150k kms and lastly there is high smell of burned petrol when standing besides the car. What could be the actual reason behind the blue smoke?

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
    Find some good work shop and ask the mechanic to plot cmp and ckp waves interupption in crank or c sensor can make a car stall or knock go to Toyota 3s and get your valve bucket inspected too

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    Quote Originally Posted by oiqbal View Post
    @dayrider there's no guarantee apart from the fact that Ive had the engine checked thoroughly and got a 1 month warranty during which I am testing it. But even if I wouldve gone for overhauling there's still no guarantee as SER_GTR has righty put the issues with engine overhauling and the major problem is the parts. Here in Pakistan mechanics recommend mixing engine oil with gear Oil for better lubrication of the gear box. Adding engine oil with diesel in jeeps for better performance and God knows what stupid things they've come up with. They would tell you that the catalytic converters are useless and everything and anything that doesn't make sense to them is useless and crap.

    So it's a risk my friend and after reading and discussing it with various mechanics and engine savvy people I just got into it. I spoke to a couple of people who had done the swap and are going good with 50k plus.
    There are always the ones who are outside the box, who do things by the book. The reason they aren't many of them around is because such people charge a lot as per the requirements and others do it for less. Sadly, people here value money over all other things hence they prefer to get it done from cheaper places. Well rebuilt engine would last you a good 200k kms. Kabali might just give up on 50k

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    Quote Originally Posted by dayrider View Post
    There are always the ones who are outside the box, who do things by the book. The reason they aren't many of them around is because such people charge a lot as per the requirements and others do it for less. Sadly, people here value money over all other things hence they prefer to get it done from cheaper places. Well rebuilt engine would last you a good 200k kms. Kabali might just give up on 50k
    You are absolutely right of the above said. The peaople who works according to books does charge more because they charge for the perfection and accurate work and people finds cheaper and reliable solution.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saboor73 View Post
    Find some good work shop and ask the mechanic to plot cmp and ckp waves interupption in crank or c sensor can make a car stall or knock go to Toyota 3s and get your valve bucket inspected too
    Thanks saboor bhai.
    I will go to Toyota directly. What does c sensor do and yes I have plans to check the valves, I think there is a lot of carbon in it.

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    These CAT equipped vehicles can be easily diagnosed by looking at the color of the cat if it turns to be Ash like color than the rings are shooted and if it is pale yellow or orange color residue than it is normal and you had some other issue.
    Current pictures of CAT, according to mechanic the oil filled in CAT
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nabeel_Ali View Post
    Thanks saboor bhai.
    I will go to Toyota directly. What does c sensor do and yes I have plans to check the valves, I think there is a lot of carbon in it.

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
    C was typing mistake it is cmp sensor

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    Quote Originally Posted by alinawaz83 View Post
    Current pictures of CAT, according to mechanic the oil filled in CAT
    Any more pictures

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