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Thread: Anyone with experience using KIXX CVTF ?

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    Default Anyone with experience using KIXX CVTF ?

    I recently changed CVT fluid of my Vitz 2005 (80K odo). Last time at 40K ODO I replaced the fluid with Toyota. But this time I replaced it with KIXX CVTF.

    Overall the drive is smooth with good power. But occasional heavy vibrations while shifting to R or stopping at D. I have this car for last 2.5 years and these vibrations were never there.

    I heard you need to recalibrate the engine after CVT fluid change. Mechanic also cleaned throttle body at the same time. Which I personally think is the root of problem as I never had it cleaned before.

    But if someone had experience with Kixx CVTF. I can rule that out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mashriqain View Post


    How did Toyota do it at 40K and how did you do it now? i.e. the process. Also, what was the reason for changing to Kixx? Can you also please point out whether only the throttle body was cleaned or whole intake manifold?

    I found that cleaning throttle body has no use because it is just a flap that has very little effect on idle. It can be cleaned without unscrewing the whole throttle body. Throttle body service results in increased RPM at idle for a day or two after which the ECU adjusts itself. I don't think increased RPM should cause vibrations.



    There is no way of adjusting RPMs via ECU. ECU controls it automatically and one cannot simply re-calibrate it. The most you could do is reset the ECU.



    Note the RPM during idle when the vibration happens. Pressure for CVT fluid can be checked using Toyota Techstream software (requires a special cable).
    ( Sleepy and not making any sense. Will update in morning. )

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlienX View Post
    @mashriqain @rajaatta @feeziali

    Yesterday I warmed up the car in the morning but after few minutes engine turned off when in D or R. So I did an ECU reset and everything was OK after that I went to have battery checked and turned out the output was just 7-8 volts instead of +-12V. Putting extra stress on generator while in idle. These cars need very few CCA so weak battery can indeed start a car.

    So I swapped it with a new one (Hankook). So far car works much better but still ECU is in learning mode so I can't say if vibrations are gone or not. Though with new battery car idle is much better and vibrations are fewer.

    I have decided to give another good mechanic a chance as my regular mechanic gives tasks to shagird now a days and disappears for car deals. He also failed to correct a bad ABS sensor too.

    About Throttle body cleaning, yes they took out the whole thing. whether they cleaned it properly or not, I am not sure.

    Part of my problem is I am becoming a boring person. Previously I blasted music all the time so I may have never actually listened to my car. Just now a days I discovered a squeak from rear left spring or ball joint which may have been there all the time . But that's a non issue for now, may be greasing.

    PS: I noticed if you wait a little on self (about 3 seconds) and start the car after red temperature turns off, the engines works better for that session. But if you go all the way in one go, engine behaves differently. No idea why this happens.
    I think you had previously removed the catalytic converter. Is it correct if yes then bro get one back as there is no suppresses in the whole exaust line and no back pressure in the exaust so the engine cant handle this free flow exaust and idle with severe vibrations. I had personally solved many issues like these severe vibrations.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    I think you had previously removed the catalytic converter. Is it correct if yes then bro get one back as there is no suppresses in the whole exaust line and no back pressure in the exaust so the engine cant handle this free flow exaust and idle with severe vibrations. I had personally solved many issues like these severe vibrations.
    Yes. Catalytic Convertor was removed by previous owner. Categorized by white smoke when revving the engine.

    So what is the process for getting one back.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlienX View Post
    Yes. Catalytic Convertor was removed by previous owner. Categorized by white smoke when revving the engine.

    So what is the process for getting one back.
    You will get the used one from saddar or chahsultan. Just install it and your idle vibrations will be gone. For more assistance just pm me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    yes toyota is better but only if you get genuine one not the Lahore Badami Bagh packed tin pack . Trust spoiled..... due to fake tins locally packed.
    If you do not trust something of Toyota while purchasing from reliable parts shop or Toyota directly, then how can you be sure that Kixx is not being packed in Badami Bagh too?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mashriqain View Post
    If you do not trust something of Toyota while purchasing from reliable parts shop or Toyota directly, then how can you be sure that Kixx is not being packed in Badami Bagh too?
    Now that is a million dollar (Rs) question. But if you buy from Toyota, they add taxes and makes price almost double.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mashriqain View Post
    If you do not trust something of Toyota while purchasing from reliable parts shop or Toyota directly, then how can you be sure that Kixx is not being packed in Badami Bagh too?
    Kixx is new. But one thing I had to mention here if you go for badami bagh tin pack oil and want to spend that soo much money on toyota cans. Why not you go for the liqui moly toptec 1400. Atleast somr standard and quality is guarantee. I bet pour in the local toyota and test drive the vehicle for 5000kms. And you will see the discolouring of oil very badly. On same vehicle pour the kixx. And test it for 5000kms then you will know the difference. It doesnt change its colour and stay stable as compared to toyota oil

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    Kixx is new. But one thing I had to mention here if you go for badami bagh tin pack oil and want to spend that soo much money on toyota cans. Why not you go for the liqui moly toptec 1400. Atleast somr standard and quality is guarantee. I bet pour in the local toyota and test drive the vehicle for 5000kms. And you will see the discolouring of oil very badly. On same vehicle pour the kixx. And test it for 5000kms then you will know the difference. It doesnt change its colour and stay stable as compared to toyota oil
    I have noted in my diary to check oil color after 5000Km. It will verify your claim. Though old Toyota fluid didn't change color after 40K, at least on my car.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlienX View Post
    I have noted in my diary to check oil color after 5000Km. It will verify your claim. Though old Toyota fluid didn't change color after 40K, at least on my car.
    Ok. Plz do so and old oil didnt change its colour mean you dont had any idea how to analyze it. Well wishes for the 5000km's

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    Ok. Plz do so and old oil didnt change its colour mean you dont had any idea how to analyze it. Well wishes for the 5000km's
    Do you know of a lab which can analyze the used oil in Islamabad?!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mashriqain View Post
    Do you know of a lab which can analyze the used oil in Islamabad?!
    Pour the used and new oil in a glass tube or hlass holdrr and see the difference buddy no need to spend more money on lab tests your eyes are the best lab in the world of automotive industry.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    Pour the used and new oil in a glass tube or hlass holdrr and see the difference buddy no need to spend more money on lab tests your eyes are the best lab in the world of automotive industry.
    But that would only give colour comparison and you have rejected the OP's observation that way by saying he does not know how to analyze...

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    @mashriqain @rajaatta

    This may be the funniest thing you are going to read. And probably a big blunder by me.

    I haven't changed Fuel filter for 2.5 years . I don't know I missed it. And may also be the root of problems. I'll change the whole assembly ASAP with genuine replacement. I think it's around 5000rs from saddar (without motor).

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlienX View Post
    @mashriqain @rajaatta

    This may be the funniest thing you are going to read. And probably a big blunder by me.

    I haven't changed Fuel filter for 2.5 years . I don't know I missed it. And may also be the root of problems. I'll change the whole assembly ASAP with genuine replacement. I think it's around 5000rs from saddar (without motor).
    dont make that mistake its an honest advice first do the following thing's
    1: get the fuel trim's monitored at idle and at high rpm's if they r +5 at idle the filter is chocking and if the trims are fine at idle then the filter is good dont wast the money on whole assembly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    dont make that mistake its an honest advice first do the following thing's
    1: get the fuel trim's monitored at idle and at high rpm's if they r +5 at idle the filter is chocking and if the trims are fine at idle then the filter is good dont wast the money on whole assembly.
    Dually noted. I'll update you.

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    @rajaatta im using Kixx 5W-30 in my 1KFR Vitz and quite satisfied with, was thinking of using Kixx CVT too as Toyota tin is not available at shops and 3S asking 8k for the TIN. I was having doubts but now will go for it, how much Kms should i put to it ?

    Thanks...
    Life@300KPH

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    Quote Originally Posted by vickey191 View Post
    @rajaatta im using Kixx 5W-30 in my 1KFR Vitz and quite satisfied with, was thinking of using Kixx CVT too as Toyota tin is not available at shops and 3S asking 8k for the TIN. I was having doubts but now will go for it, how much Kms should i put to it ?

    Thanks...
    First time change at 25k and if you drive calmly then on next at 30k and keep changing it on 30k your transmission will stay happy and safe... have peace..

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    Quote Originally Posted by vickey191 View Post
    @rajaatta im using Kixx 5W-30 in my 1KFR Vitz and quite satisfied with, was thinking of using Kixx CVT too as Toyota tin is not available at shops and 3S asking 8k for the TIN. I was having doubts but now will go for it, how much Kms should i put to it ?

    Thanks...
    one thing more in winter's 5W-30 is safe to use in then engine's but as you feel the difference in weather like starting of summer's just shift the viscosity to 5W-40 and you will not damage your engine by low thermal efficiency which 5W-30 lag's and your engine will be safe always use Fully synthetic engine oil dont use partially synthtic or mineral engine oil in 1KR-FE or you will end up destroying your motor. have peace

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    Quote Originally Posted by rajaatta View Post
    Pour the used and new oil in a glass tube or hlass holdrr and see the difference buddy no need to spend more money on lab tests your eyes are the best lab in the world of automotive industry.
    hmm

    when I drain some TES 295 ATF from allison HD truck transmissions to send for analysis - they have a yellow/pink tint to them rather than the rooh afza red when it was poured new.

    The colour is only a tint and bears absolutely nothing on performance - and almost every single time the result comes back perfect for further use, Multiple trucks are now reaching into the 100,000 mile service life with ATF in perfect condition except its not red anymore.

    e.g. toyota T-IV wears out and disperses graphite in itself and becomes an ugly grayish black - but it still is ok that way.

    OTOH - old dexron type ATFs from mineral base oil would be red n nice but have traction issues when its worn out. You get the drone/buzz/ lazy shift with ending shock etc.
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    hmm

    when I drain some TES 295 ATF from allison HD truck transmissions to send for analysis - they have a yellow/pink tint to them rather than the rooh afza red when it was poured new.

    The colour is only a tint and bears absolutely nothing on performance - and almost every single time the result comes back perfect for further use, Multiple trucks are now reaching into the 100,000 mile service life with ATF in perfect condition except its not red anymore.

    e.g. toyota T-IV wears out and disperses graphite in itself and becomes an ugly grayish black - but it still is ok that way.

    OTOH - old dexron type ATFs from mineral base oil would be red n nice but have traction issues when its worn out. You get the drone/buzz/ lazy shift with ending shock etc.
    You are absolutely right but here in pakistan I am analyzing hundred of vehicles every month with cvts most of them are toyota's color doesnt matter but the thing matter's most is the atf temperature which right now in this cold season gets upto 100 c with normal driving conditions which is abnormal and if the same vehicle is driven harshly all time wot driving condition then the atf temp shoots upto 110 + and transmission starts to make ugly sounds as the torque conv is worn out and then jumps in the drag. Shift points are normal but during coasting one diagnoser can easily feel the braking effect which increases by the time and get worse if the urgent service measures are not taken. The problem is not solved even after fresh oil replacement even dont work and in few hundred miles the oil starts to loose its strength by continuous overheating and eventually transmission become a piece of scrap. Was working on a k410 from vitz 2012 last night the vehicle was driven only 50k and the last cvtf tc replacement was carried out 10k ago but upon diagnostics and test drive the temps stands on 90 + all the time and trans make whistling noises the at pil pressure was also low and it also starts severe braking in coasting shifting was fine. So opened the oil pan and foumded lot of deposits on pan magnets and the oil was also gone in 10k mileage interval so decided to servi e the valve body and change the cvtf tc and afyer the service the temps are in normal range at oil pressure is back to its normal range and shifting and coastings are all normal now the vehicle accelerates smmothly with lighter acceleration.

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