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Thread: Yamaha RX115 CDI, Front rear wheels complete

  1. #1
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    Default Yamaha RX115 CDI, Front rear wheels complete

    Have the following parts available for a RX115

    1: Yamaha Genuine CDI Unit
    2: Front Wheel complete with drum, disc, spokes along with a good treaded tire
    3: Rear Wheel complete with drum, spokes and a good treaded tire
    4: Rear Swingarm also known as Chimta, new paint, will need new bushes.
    5: Magnet plate with working coils and Pulsar also known as Pickup coil

    Attaching the picture of the CDI, pictures for other parts can be arranged on request.

    Interested people may email me with their reasonable offers at devito786@gmail.com


    Yamaha RX115 CDI, Front rear wheels complete - 9528 Yamaha RX115 CDI, Front rear wheels complete - 9528Yamaha RX115 CDI Front rear wheels complete -9527 Yamaha RX115 CDI Front rear wheels complete -9529


  2. #21
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    screw the mechanic - do it yourself, then you will also get the proper feel of a two stroke tuned motor,

    be sure that your reed stops are adjusted to 9mm from the lip to reed petal, use a hammer to shape them properly and remember to use loctite to secure the reed stop screw - it can work itself loose as it vibrates many times a second - it helps greatly in torque and midrange power - and thats also how the original yamaha exhaust is tuned to - midrange pull..

    The engine is very very simple to rebuild - I did mine replaced all screws in the engine case to allen heads - all including the little ones holding the bearing plates and oil pump - look cool too

  3. #22
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    @xulfiqar thanks dear for shairing the info.i have infected reed which is extra. now i am gonna adjust it at yours specs.tell me one thing more shud the screws of reeds hold tight and u r talking about 9mm distance of reed petals from the reed,s mouth?
    once i placed this extra reed and the indication was hard starting and also wasnt able for idle starting
    ***SPEED+ACCURACY+AGGRESSION=YAMAHA RX115***

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    The 9mm distance is the distance from the edge of the curved metal reed stop to the nose of the reed

    you can also adjust it to 10mm without problems - the stops are just rolled steel use a hammer to shape them by first removing them from the reed cage

    dont pile up reeds on it, you will face problems like nightmares

  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    the problem I see of relined 2 stroke cylinders here in Karachi is that the shops do not aim the ports correctly - the transfer ports should be aimed towards the back of the cylinder and the boost port in the back should be aimed at the spark plug electrode, and all ports should have a smooth edge surface and the exhaust port should have a large bevel on the roof of it, never saw such workmanship ever

    I still have my old RX115 parked in my home, rebuilt the engine myself, about 9 years ago still runs perfect as a whistle, on original oil feed system and 19mm carburettor, original factory cylinder with 0.50 oversize piston, I hand finished the cylinder ports myself, dressed the piston skirt and adjusted the reeds to 9mm..

    This bike has never EVER failed on me, starts on first kick - has excellent compression and runs beautiful - just use it rarely nowadays
    True, at the same time if you look at my previous posts I never really suggested that the required workmanship can be achieved here by our local workers if one leaves it on them to create the ports and sleeves as they are supposed to. All my work is actually done as asked to with complete attention by me all along, infact in most cases I end up using the lathe myself to achieve my desired clearances and sleeve modifications.

    Excellent stuff indeed for the engine you have rebuilt, I have absolutely no doubt the engine runs as you mentioned it to, personally I don't consider these 2 stroke little rockets to be as difficult to build as most people label them to be. finding someone of similar interests in engines has me surprised and leaves me smiling none the less, great to find you here Brother.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RX115 View Post
    totally agreed with @yamaha135.
    dear how much it will cost to install (cast iron)sleeve for RX115.
    The best grade of cast iron sleeve along with workmanship charges makes it close to 600 to 800, in my case usually I end up spending a few bucks extra considering the heavy quantity of epoxy I ask for to be applied in the bore and on the sleeve to prevent air leaks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RX115 View Post
    I want to say one thing more.if i have a original japanese cylinder and after using it in 0.0 size goes to rebore it then it depands on (kharadia). if he doesnt do proper bore to it then its originality will lost away. or phir us k oiginal honay ya na honay ka aser khatam hojay ga.
    True, I may have mentioned the same thing in my earlier post as well. clearances are what makes a engine and breaks it if they are in excess or too little. make it perfect and no reason the engine will not last and perform as long as it needs to.

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    Jetting indeed needs to be done if increasing more oil flow. however a .30mm to .40mm spacer on the oil pump will not necessarily lean out the mixture alot in my honest opinion, plug electrode will tell just that after increasing oil flow and indicate if the jetting needs to be increased to avoid a lean condition.

    apart from the piston to cylinder clearance there are a number of other things to be taken into consideration while installing a new piston, the most ignored part is the ring end gap, too little and the piston will seize within an hour of running in and if too much then the compression will be lost resulting in considerably less performance than expected.

    Also, the domes on a piston, cylinder head gasket, cylinder base gasket, the squish area are also important characteristics to be looked into while rebuilding the top end of a 2 stroke engine, something that is needed to be paid attention to on 4 stroke engines too but the 2 strokers need it a little more then them 4's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RX115 View Post
    @yamaha135 yar its too hard to undestand jahil mechanics language.....oh my GOD.in recent asked u about balancer.......basically in my area of ISB one of the mechanic called it balancer basically its pulsar.
    when i asked him ustad g rx115 ki coil plate main kitnay pulsar lagay hotay hain then he replied with proof in hand k plusar to koi nahi hota yeh 1 balancer laga hoa hay bas.....then i asked him to bring new one balancer from shop keeper with its carton.....the pulsar was written on the carton.than i said ustad g yeh dabay per to pulsar likha hay.
    he said bhai hum to balancer hi kehtay hain.......
    i was also amazed k pulsar ka to mujhay bi ilm hay ye balancer kis cheez ko kehtay hain.....thats why i asked it to u.......anyway thanks.
    and you will be surprised further by knowing that the same part (Pulsar) used on my Yamaha 550 is actually identified as a Pick Up Coil and not a Pulsar. you're most welcome Brother.

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by RX115 View Post
    @xulfiqar thanks dear for shairing the info.i have infected reed which is extra. now i am gonna adjust it at yours specs.tell me one thing more shud the screws of reeds hold tight and u r talking about 9mm distance of reed petals from the reed,s mouth?
    once i placed this extra reed and the indication was hard starting and also wasnt able for idle starting
    Yes, the screws of the reeds are to be tightened to hold tight till the last breath of the engine, you do not want any of the 4 reeds to get loose and end up in the bore while the engine is run else will lead to major/catastrophic damage to the piston, bore, head, small end and big end bearings that will destroy the connecting rod. Similar damage has happened to alot of engines and is a major part to be paid attention to once assembling back the reeds.

    What I believe you may be referring to is a 6 Petal cage. Adding in more reeds on each other will do nothing but decrease performance due to breathing difficulties, making it breath more however will help the performance factor and that can be done by installing a reed cage with more than 4 petals, usually 6 is what is suggested and what I prefer, but at the same time a 6 petal reed cage is hard to find locally, took me a while to find mine too but once found, it did indeed helped the engine breath and perform better.

  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by yamaha135 View Post
    True, at the same time if you look at my previous posts I never really suggested that the required workmanship can be achieved here by our local workers if one leaves it on them to create the ports and sleeves as they are supposed to. All my work is actually done as asked to with complete attention by me all along, infact in most cases I end up using the lathe myself to achieve my desired clearances and sleeve modifications.

    Excellent stuff indeed for the engine you have rebuilt, I have absolutely no doubt the engine runs as you mentioned it to, personally I don't consider these 2 stroke little rockets to be as difficult to build as most people label them to be. finding someone of similar interests in engines has me surprised and leaves me smiling none the less, great to find you here Brother.
    Thanks

    I just followed the basic rules of 2 stroke engine rebuilding.
    an excerpt of my own build notes I found in my old build books

    the sketch of the ports is unevenly balanced and one transfer port has aluminium ridging to it,
    *All ports lined correctly in original staggered fashion - stagger of 2 mm piston travel

    exhaust port bottom not fully exposed, and lead transfer ports in barrel to case mismatch
    *ports correctly matched to case and thicker gasket installed to raise barrel, barrel skimmed on top to get squish to 0.7mm (maesured with 1mm thick solder wire)

    the cases were joined with threebond 1107 (cost me Rs 980) at that time for the tube.

    redid the crank like so
    ground individual crankwheels on a car crank grinding machine to perfect roundness - mounted the rod in the wheels with loctite bearing fit compound and balanced within 1 minute before drying time using the same lathe and dial gauge. (was worth every paisa spent - Rs 1000 for the crank finishing)

    installed the crank with a puller I made myself with 2 flat plates, 3 sleeve bolts and nuts.

    hand finished the oiling ports in the main bearing bosses - so they can actually get oil fed.

    All engine screws used were 12.9 grade allen screws - the result was absolutely beautiful in my opinion

    old memories brought a smile to my face. lol

  12. #31
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    @yamaha135,@Xulfiqar......its nice to see 2 engineers on board.
    VM22 OR VM26 CARBURATOR REQUIRED......
    ***SPEED+ACCURACY+AGGRESSION=YAMAHA RX115***

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    Default Any body have Cylinder + pistion (0 number) Geniune and Silencer???

    Quote Originally Posted by yamaha135 View Post
    Have the following parts available for a RX115

    1: Yamaha Genuine CDI Unit
    2: Front Wheel complete with drum, disc, spokes along with a good treaded tire
    3: Rear Wheel complete with drum, spokes and a good treaded tire
    4: Rear Swingarm also known as Chimta, new paint, will need new bushes.
    5: Magnet plate with working coils and Pulsar also known as Pickup coil

    Attaching the picture of the CDI, pictures for other parts can be arranged on request.

    Interested people may email me with their reasonable offers at devito786@gmail.com


    Yamaha RX115 CDI, Front rear wheels complete - 9528 Yamaha RX115 CDI, Front rear wheels complete - 9528Yamaha RX115 CDI Front rear wheels complete -9527 Yamaha RX115 CDI Front rear wheels complete -9529
    Any body have Cylinder + pistion (0 number) Geniune and Silencer???*

  14. #33
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    Yar I am interested in buying front wheel along with the completet disk setup! So Pm your cell number! along with your demand!

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