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Thread: Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980)

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    Smile Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980)

    Hi everyone,

    I have decided to restore my dad's old YB100. It has been lying around in the garage for 10 years or so. I would also like to mention that I have absolute ZERO experience regarding bikes or engines and not even remotely related to those, this is my first ever project.

    PS: Since I am a bit busy with my own projects, the progress on this is going to be a bit slow (probably only weekends). And this project can even fail due my lack of experience !


    OK enough talk, let's get started:

    Original condition: The bike appears to be in a pretty bad shape:

    Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980) - 8685650134 9507a2cc25 b


    Special thanks: I would like to thank our respected pakwheels member @
    vickytulla (Waqar) for the much needed initial guidance.


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    This is it for now. As I mentioned earlier the updates are probably going to be slow because I am feeling lazy most of the time. Currently I am facing the challenge of detaching exhaust pipe from the cylinder. It appears that it is pretty much jammed in due to rust. I applied WD40 and used C-spanner to open the sleeve nut but totally failed.


    Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980) - 8685647736 f52f8db53b b

    C-spanner:
    Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980) - GED40 1


    2nd challenge I am facing is that the rear breaks appear to be totally malfunctioning. So taking off the drive sprocket is proving to be extremely difficult. As I try to loosen it up the rear wheel starts to spin like crazy. I can't put it in gear because 1) the gear change pedal is off, and 2) gears appeared to be jammed at the very beginning.

    Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980) - 8685647540 1d182608e7 b


    3rd challenge: The rotor wheel starts to spin like crazy as soon as I try to take off the big nut in the middle of the wheel:

    Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980) - 8685647510 9161a1f859 b


    @hidalgo , @vickytulla , any ideas?

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    This ride is pretty messed up..Lot of work required..I wish you good luck on this project
    The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status, is that, deep down inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hidalgo View Post
    after market tanki tapay available for 1.2 k
    all rates m telling u are in pindi they will be more less in lahore
    "Tanki tapay" meaning the left side battery cover? I guess this is the only tappa on the bike. Tappa means cover right?

    Only after complete disassembly we would be able to know the exact situation. Let's see how many components need to be replaced.

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    Quote Originally Posted by devilskreed View Post
    This ride is pretty messed up..Lot of work required..I wish you good luck on this project
    Thanks ... Yes it is totally screwed up LOL. Will be an interesting restore provided IF i succeed.

    But on a second thought, the main frame is in very good condition. The other components which have rust can be replaced if not repaired. Like @hidalgo mentioned the fenders cost around Rs.600, why repair? just replace in that case. Replacing fuel tank instead of repair is also not that expensive, provided if I am able to find original one.

    3rd: The amount of work required is not as much as you think. I've spent like maybe 10 hours in total on the bike and i've made a good progress. The local mechanics just like to rip us off and suck our blood and even then totally screw our bikes/machines. That's why I totally hate them !

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    @OP we belong to same city
    The best car safety device is a rear-view mirror with a cop in it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    Did you modify your bike yourself? I mean installed disk breaks etc? If yes then that is pretty awesome!

    One thing I really like to know is that how the local mechanics or "kharadias" bore the cylinder? Do they actually measure it using micrometer or bore gauge etc? Or do they work mainly on "guesses" ?
    bro i had 3 bikes the modified one is1989(infamilysince1989)
    my1st bikefrom1stsalarywas1988yb100(point,i got it cheep.experimented it learnt alotn sold it)
    then rx115 did a crazy project.disc,exhaust front rear suspension on MY bike is of rx.

    kharadias use vernier calliper to measure
    legend will revive soon

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    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    This is it for now. As I mentioned earlier the updates are probably going to be slow because I am feeling lazy most of the time. Currently I am facing the challenge of detaching exhaust pipe from the cylinder. It appears that it is pretty much jammed in due to rust. I applied WD40 and used C-spanner to open the sleeve nut but totally failed.


    Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980) - 8685647736 f52f8db53b b

    C-spanner:
    Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980) - GED40 1


    2nd challenge I am facing is that the rear breaks appear to be totally malfunctioning. So taking off the drive sprocket is proving to be extremely difficult. As I try to loosen it up the rear wheel starts to spin like crazy. I can't put it in gear because 1) the gear change pedal is off, and 2) gears appeared to be jammed at the very beginning.

    Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980) - 8685647540 1d182608e7 b


    3rd challenge: The rotor wheel starts to spin like crazy as soon as I try to take off the big nut in the middle of the wheel:

    Restoring Yamaha 100cc (YB100, model:1980) - 8685647510 9161a1f859 b


    @hidalgo , @vickytulla , any ideas?
    for exhaust bend, use plumber wrench or pipewrench to open it.if u get that specific toolwhichu showed,idk its name,its multi purpose.it ll help in opening front column.for magnet,put bike in gear its neutrl at d moment so spining
    legend will revive soon

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    new wiring costs 500 to 1k depending at quality
    legend will revive soon

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    i,m a very bike fan of these 2 strokers would love to see this bike in MACHOO looks and drive
    Can,t think of a better signature

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    A very Nice Idea, though I use a tray with line of pockets to put sets of bolts and nuts sepratly it lessens the hassle a lot..

    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post

    Important:
    Always be organised. Put everything separately and if possible, label them:

    I didnt realised in even our meetups that you are not only good at softwares but with the camera too.. keep it Up!
    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    It is just a normal point and shoot camera (canon).


    there are even professional engineeers who do Boring for heavy bikes like on on main Boulavard DHA . and he uses laser guided boring measurements and couputer controoled borring "khirad" machine so there is less "Human" interaction to remove guess work ... but on local horizon.. most hathora mechnic khiradiya hardly use only vernier caliper..
    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    One thing I really like to know is that how the local mechanics or "kharadias" bore the cylinder? Do they actually measure it using micrometer or bore gauge etc? Or do they work mainly on "guesses" ?




    (the hathora style)there are two ways one is to get a hathora and you a wedge to make it move that ruin the nut but you can put a new one at least it will make it open..

    (little lengthy but works like a charm) go to gas welder as him to make red hot every nut you want to open one by one...
    when nut/ bolt becomes red hot it opens like a knife in the butter get all nuts open and come home and De-assemble further...


    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    This is it for now. As I mentioned earlier the updates are probably going to be slow because I am feeling lazy most of the time. Currently I am facing the challenge of detaching exhaust pipe from the cylinder. It appears that it is pretty much jammed in due to rust. I applied WD40 and used C-spanner to open the sleeve nut but totally failed.





    remove the rear wheel first and loosen it from back chain adjuster the chain will come off the sprocket and every thing will be seprated...
    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    2nd challenge I am facing is that the rear breaks appear to be totally malfunctioning. So taking off the drive sprocket is proving to be extremely difficult. As I try to loosen it up the rear wheel starts to spin like crazy. I can't put it in gear because 1) the gear change pedal is off, and 2) gears appeared to be jammed at the very beginning.


    You need a magnet Puller and Magnet Holder/jammer set to pop open it... one way it buy a new puller set (for YB 100) or the other way it to tow it to nearest mechanic ask him to loosen all the jammed nuts for you .. and he will do it in no time as the do it on every day .. this will save you tools from getting abused while opening a rusty bike and also that you can see and learn how the mechanic did it so that next time you will not need his assistance...

    The Guy I bring along me had a very good experience in de assembling a YB100 that day and he would have de-assembled it in matter of minutes but he realized you were to sensitive about your new tools and would be really not comfortable if he uses them hard to De-assemble a rusty thumper... so he backed off...

    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    3rd challenge: The rotor wheel starts to spin like crazy as soon as I try to take off the big nut in the middle of the wheel:


    hope it helps .

    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    @hidalgo , @vickytulla , any ideas?


    we all are sir gee..

    Quote Originally Posted by faizandawood007 View Post
    i,m a very bike fan of these 2 strokers would love to see this bike in MACHOO looks and drive
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

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    Quote Originally Posted by waqar19 View Post
    @OP we belong to same city
    I think so

    Quote Originally Posted by hidalgo View Post
    kharadias use vernier calliper to measure
    I may be wrong but:

    You can't use a vernier calliper to measure the bore damage. Measurements have to be taken at 3 places (at least):
    1) about one inch from top lip
    2) middle of the cylinder
    3) one inch from the bottom lip of the cylinder

    In all above cases, both horizontal and vertical axis, so a total of at least 6 measurements per cylinder (not to mention you need to recheck it 3-4 times).

    You need to measure exact "taper" damage and ovality. Vernier calliper simply can't do that. All verniers can do is to measure the cylinder at the lips where it is least damaged. You need an inside micrometer or a bore gauge to measure exact taper and ovality.

    Again, since I haven't seen local khradias in action with my own eyes, so i can't pass any judgement about them.


    Quote Originally Posted by vickytulla View Post
    there are even professional engineeers who do Boring for heavy bikes like on on main Boulavard DHA . and he uses laser guided boring measurements and couputer controoled borring "khirad" machine so there is less "Human" interaction to remove guess work ... but on local horizon.. most hathora mechnic khiradiya hardly use only vernier caliper..

    Are you sure? . Laser system appears to be pretty expensive which auto giants seem to afford. A huge number of extremely good auto repair shops in the US use bore gauges. If the DHA guys have a laser system then they must be hilariously expensive.

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    which laser system fakir .. tell me too ..

    I said laser "guided measurements". and you ae corect to take is from three places, I have seen reboring of CBR inline four cylender chamber the laser measure tool is rolled into cylinder and measurements are marked by marker and then boring is done with cutting oil dipped drillers and values are pre-set and machine do the Job.

    If you happen to find some time go to any Honda Pit Stop where the re-format ICU units of computer programmed vehicles and do engine over haul mostly they have these all equipments.. or you can visit heavy bike mechnic called Rashid I think his workshop is at Main Boulevard, he services latest rides and has latest equips too..


    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    I think so

    Are you sure? . Laser system appears to be pretty expensive which auto giants seem to afford. A huge number of extremely good auto repair shops in the US use bore gauges. If the DHA guys have a laser system then they must be hilariously expensive.
    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/motorcycle-travel-diaries/277725-sober-riders-visit-khunjerab-adventurous-way-via-nori-pass

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    OK.....now this is turning out to be informative......
    Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vickytulla View Post
    which laser system fakir .. tell me too ..
    Sorry I think I mistook it for Laser based boring/honing devices .

    I guess laser measurement is extremely accurate. The professionals who are boring like 50 cylinders per day should get it. But as far as we amateurs are concerned, inside micrometer or a bore gauge is both cheap and extremely accurate solution (may not be comparable to lasers but still pretty good enough).

    Another way to measure bore (which i'll probably use) is that you can also use telescopic gauges COMBINED with a high precision vernier calliper.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fakhir View Post
    Sorry I think I mistook it for Laser based boring/honing devices .

    I guess laser measurement is extremely accurate. The professionals who are boring like 50 cylinders per day should get it. But as far as we amateurs are concerned, inside micrometer or a bore gauge is both cheap and extremely accurate solution (may not be comparable to lasers but still pretty good enough).

    Another way to measure bore (which i'll probably use) is that you can also use telescopic gauges COMBINED with a high precision vernier calliper.
    I haven't seen anyone using telescopic gauges or bore gauges here in Khi. Will yo buy one.....from where?? Verniers hee use kertay hain at most.
    Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aximaxim View Post
    I haven't seen anyone using telescopic gauges or bore gauges here in Khi. Will yo buy one.....from where?? Verniers hee use kertay hain at most.
    Well I bought dial gauge from bilal ganj for Rs.1200. Telescopic gauges should be cheap around Rs.1000. I suspect bore gauge is also going to be around this price range (1500-2000). I think telescopic and bore gauges are available from brandeth road, I will probably check it out this weekend. Inside micrometers esp the good ones are pretty expensive (3000-5000 price range). Outside micrometer is much cheaper.

    Bore gauge is a lot faster to work with but I guess telescopic gauge + good vernier is the way to go for me. I will probably buy these.

    You can't use a normal vernier alone to measure bore damage (as I've explained in another reply above). Cheap verniers are not even precise as compared to micrometer, dial or bore gauges. If every mechanic is doing it then obviously they are doing it wrong. If the cylinder is not properly bored then you won't get optimal performance from your bike/car.

    I myself will probably go to those laser measurement guys at DHA which @vickytulla mentioned in a post above (if they are not hilariously expensive that is ).

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    Its totally restorable,just dismantle it,find a decent paint guy,chrome and anodize guy and ure in business

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    bro dnt waste a lot of money in modern boring etc etc , just a sugession .
    legend will revive soon

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    I think Yamaha 100 parts are still available in Pk so that should help.If you need anything from Khi let me know

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    Very good and informative, this YB 100 will teach us a a lot

    Best of Luck for restro job ...

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