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Thread: Yamaha junoon different isses. Help required

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    Default Yamaha junoon different isses. Help required

    Assalam o Alaikum everyone. I just joined pakwheels forum a few days back.
    I am Rizwan. 24 year of age.
    My current ride is Yamaha junoon 2009 model. 52000km plus mileage
    I have different issues now and need proper help. Juat because i don't want to waste my money and time as well.
    Now come towards topic.
    1. Tires. I want to replacw both tires. Front one the same service 2.50x18 but for rear tire. I want to replace it with 2.75x18 service long life cruiser style. I have original stock rims installed right now both rims are 2.50x18 supported. Now let me know if i need to repace the reae rim for new size 2.75x18 tire size?
    2. Head Lights. I am fed up with low lights. My current stock fitted body of head light isn't sufficient for night ride. I have changed the bulb to Taiwanese bulb but nothing changed. Guide me fe good light but with good loook.
    3. Rear shock abaorber. Shocks absorber. Mostly known as jumps are done now. I observerf oil leakage from bottom of jumps.
    4 engine is producing some horrible sounds. Need a best mechanic for bike in karachi
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    uff yar mashallah shukr ha bike sahi ho gya good luck for future maintenance 7230 is a lot of money yar liken chalo ab to jo hona tha vo ho gya

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    Quote Originally Posted by muhammedahmed2 View Post
    uff yar mashallah shukr ha bike sahi ho gya good luck for future maintenance 7230 is a lot of money yar liken chalo ab to jo hona tha vo ho gya
    Yes bhai sab sy mushkil kaam isko ab 1000 km tak below 50 chlaana hey .. ahhhhh
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    good luck with mastering your impulses its very hard to not twist the throttle on this beast

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    yar there is a factory defect with yamaha junoon: is ko nazar boat jaldi lag jati ha 2 weeks ago someone complemented me on the bike and was saying how nice,big and solid the bike fuel tank looked and after that bike started missing there is a lot of kachra in the fuel tank i had it cleaned by tanki specialist but to no effect .....there is no other problem as if you connect the bike with bottle of fuel then the missing stops had the tanki cleaned by tanki specialist once and learned how to do it my self then did it my self but to no effect one mecanic is saying that change the tank but price of orignal is well above 4k and i cant afford that. researched on internet and came to conclusion that there is one effective way which is electrolysis method of removing rust. but i dont know if any one has done it before in pakistan and am scared on attempting on my own as internet doesnt mention the disadvantages here are a few comments on another website that i found usefull and am posting here to see if someone could make the process simpler for me if someone has done this before I have seen so many opinions on this that I can only offer what I have learned by really thinking about the problem from a chemist's perspective..
    For the best way to clean your tank,you really should know what kind of dirt is inside it. I have cleaned one automobile tank,one farm tractor tank, Two motorcycle tanks,and I have a PERFECT 35 year old tank from a CB500. It is really important what condition the tank is in before you start.
    If your bike is a beater bike,with a rusty tank and you really do not care if it holes through after you clean it,by all means use whatever harsh chemical will do the job and the faster the better! If you want to use the most gentle method,I will describe it as going with electrolysis. If you have a nearly perfect tank with little rust and very nice paint,even electrolysis can ruin your efforts.
    There are two kinds of problems. one is rust,and one is varnish. I usually go after the varnish first because varnish will coat the tank and the rust in the tank,making the rust more resistant to being removed by any method, electrolysis included
    The cheapest way to remove varnish is with lacquer thinner. It simply dissolves the stuff into itself [dissolves into solution], and what does not completely dissolve turns into soft jelly. I get mine at a Sherwinn- Williams paint store for 15-20 bucks a gallon. Let the stuff set for several days,and it will not hurt the tank at all. Nice if you can afford enough to completely fill that tank.
    Make sure that you save what comes out of the tank, because you can use it over again. I let all the gunk and rust settle and just draw off the clear [amber by now] liquid that comes to the top.
    Electrolysis with laundry soda [not baking soda] as the electrolyte worked really well for me. It worked very well because I was working only on the rust and not a bunch of gasoline leftovers. Keep in mind to use a manual battery charger and a steel rebar works well to attract the rust,but when the reaction stops,you must clean the bar and just keep using the solution in the tank. Even when I covered the outside of the tank with heavy grease,the trail of foamy bubbles that came out of the tank washed the grease off and left a whitish stain behind, and that is what to watch out for. 5 thousand miles and three years later,no rust has returned. Note that I did use oxalic acid to convert the bare metal to a blue/black coating.
    Now about my pride and joy Cb550 tank that has darn near perfect factory original paint. I will use lacquer thinner first to clean what little gunk was left behind with gas and Stabil in the tank, in there 21 years, and perhaps a mild solution of toilet bowl cleaner [about one-10 ratio] to loosen the rust if any is present.No foam,no drama, filled to the top---just get it clean as possible without risking the paint. Many rinsings,dry it with shop vac exhaust, and then a treatment of oxalic acid that will convert what rust remains to an inert coating. Dry it again with the shop vac
    There are postings, YouTube videos,and gobs of stuff about electrolosis that are available by searching the net. No need to repeat it here.




    Tank electrolysis maybe the way to go. Its very cheap and cleans perfectly. You need a car battery charger for this (or any other high amp charger)

    First you pour water in the tank and add alot of salt. Then put a metal rod in the water inside the tank. The rod should not touch the tank on the inside or outside. You can use wood to hold the rod in place, without touching the tank. Then you connect the positive wire to the rod and the negative wire to the outside of the gastank. After 48 hours or so, it looks like you made tomato sauce inside of the tank, thats the rust that has been removed disconnect everything and rinse the tank with some gasoline.

    There is a residue (black/grey, its called hematite) on the inside of the tank, you clean it by filling the tank with a slightly acidic liquid (even lemon juice works). After that you keep rinsing with water, until its clean.




    Electrolysis rust removal - motorbike fuel tank

    Removing rust from a gas tank - MopedWiki

    Removing rust from a gas tank - MopedWiki

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    @muhammedahmed2 seriously sad yar. Why don't you check the switch of fuel on of reserve. And conditions of its pipe inside the tank. May be some dirt or rust particals stucked in that nozzle. Btw thers is a way to clean the tank . Put off tank from bike and pour 1 liter fuel in it and then add lot of bolts and nuts and the shake it for a long time and the drain the fuel. And filter the drain fuel and pour it againg and repeat the process . But there ia one doubt about junoon tank. There's fuel gauge in it. Thia process can damage the gauge . @vickytulla bhai please guide.
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    Quote Originally Posted by muhammedahmed2 View Post
    yar there is a factory defect with yamaha junoon: is ko nazar boat jaldi lag jati ha 2 weeks ago someone complemented me on the bike and was saying how nice,big and solid the bike fuel tank looked and after that bike started missing there is a lot of kachra in the fuel tank i had it cleaned by tanki specialist but to no effect .....there is no other problem as if you connect the bike with bottle of fuel then the missing stops had the tanki cleaned by tanki specialist once and learned how to do it my self then did it my self but to no effect one mecanic is saying that change the tank but price of orignal is well above 4k and i cant afford that. researched on internet and came to conclusion that there is one effective way which is electrolysis method of removing rust. but i dont know if any one has done it before in pakistan and am scared on attempting on my own as internet doesnt mention the disadvantages here are a few comments on another website that i found usefull and am posting here to see if someone could make the process simpler for me if someone has done this before I have seen so many opinions on this that I can only offer what I have learned by really thinking about the problem from a chemist's perspective..
    For the best way to clean your tank,you really should know what kind of dirt is inside it. I have cleaned one automobile tank,one farm tractor tank, Two motorcycle tanks,and I have a PERFECT 35 year old tank from a CB500. It is really important what condition the tank is in before you start.
    If your bike is a beater bike,with a rusty tank and you really do not care if it holes through after you clean it,by all means use whatever harsh chemical will do the job and the faster the better! If you want to use the most gentle method,I will describe it as going with electrolysis. If you have a nearly perfect tank with little rust and very nice paint,even electrolysis can ruin your efforts.
    There are two kinds of problems. one is rust,and one is varnish. I usually go after the varnish first because varnish will coat the tank and the rust in the tank,making the rust more resistant to being removed by any method, electrolysis included
    The cheapest way to remove varnish is with lacquer thinner. It simply dissolves the stuff into itself [dissolves into solution], and what does not completely dissolve turns into soft jelly. I get mine at a Sherwinn- Williams paint store for 15-20 bucks a gallon. Let the stuff set for several days,and it will not hurt the tank at all. Nice if you can afford enough to completely fill that tank.
    Make sure that you save what comes out of the tank, because you can use it over again. I let all the gunk and rust settle and just draw off the clear [amber by now] liquid that comes to the top.
    Electrolysis with laundry soda [not baking soda] as the electrolyte worked really well for me. It worked very well because I was working only on the rust and not a bunch of gasoline leftovers. Keep in mind to use a manual battery charger and a steel rebar works well to attract the rust,but when the reaction stops,you must clean the bar and just keep using the solution in the tank. Even when I covered the outside of the tank with heavy grease,the trail of foamy bubbles that came out of the tank washed the grease off and left a whitish stain behind, and that is what to watch out for. 5 thousand miles and three years later,no rust has returned. Note that I did use oxalic acid to convert the bare metal to a blue/black coating.
    Now about my pride and joy Cb550 tank that has darn near perfect factory original paint. I will use lacquer thinner first to clean what little gunk was left behind with gas and Stabil in the tank, in there 21 years, and perhaps a mild solution of toilet bowl cleaner [about one-10 ratio] to loosen the rust if any is present.No foam,no drama, filled to the top---just get it clean as possible without risking the paint. Many rinsings,dry it with shop vac exhaust, and then a treatment of oxalic acid that will convert what rust remains to an inert coating. Dry it again with the shop vac
    There are postings, YouTube videos,and gobs of stuff about electrolosis that are available by searching the net. No need to repeat it here.




    Tank electrolysis maybe the way to go. Its very cheap and cleans perfectly. You need a car battery charger for this (or any other high amp charger)

    First you pour water in the tank and add alot of salt. Then put a metal rod in the water inside the tank. The rod should not touch the tank on the inside or outside. You can use wood to hold the rod in place, without touching the tank. Then you connect the positive wire to the rod and the negative wire to the outside of the gastank. After 48 hours or so, it looks like you made tomato sauce inside of the tank, thats the rust that has been removed disconnect everything and rinse the tank with some gasoline.

    There is a residue (black/grey, its called hematite) on the inside of the tank, you clean it by filling the tank with a slightly acidic liquid (even lemon juice works). After that you keep rinsing with water, until its clean.




    Electrolysis rust removal - motorbike fuel tank

    Removing rust from a gas tank - MopedWiki

    Removing rust from a gas tank - MopedWiki
    change the cover of tank it could be air lock

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    air lock is a seprate issue with it and rust is seprate issue rizwan bahi last week i did put nuts and bolts init the problem is not of putting them in the problem is getting them out..... took me 5 mins to put them in and a lot of rust was gone but when the time came to take them out it took me the whole afternoon they wouldnt come out had to take apart the fuel gauge and then very hard work taking them out....air lock is also a issue but found a solution there is a small filter type thing it was full of dirt i just removed it and air lock issue was gone im just tense about the rust and the kachra inside of it and am afraid of going to mecanic as i know he will **** it up eventually and say "dyl is quality he asie ha" yar i cant believe it that a almost new tank still scrachless can go through this phase.

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    air lock issue was solved by me there is a small cig filter type thing in it it will be dirty just remove that and issue solved for me

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    going to try one last time with nuts and bolts if issue is not solved will go with electrolysis we studied it in 9th chemistry class aswell.

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    Finally my second mobile bike mount stand is with me now. Best part of this stand. Its a water proof packing and it can accommodate samsung s4 s5 s3 size mobiles in it. 😍:p
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    Quote Originally Posted by muhammedahmed2 View Post
    found it..150 for the rubber yar can you imagine....dyl wale to loottay han logo ko. liken shukr ha masla hal ho gya mera bus kuch dino tak carburator khulva ker saff karvana ha achi tarah say
    Yar mari bike k sath bhi yahi masla tha aur 300 rs lag ga.y 25 Dec. Ko 100 rs ki rubber 50 rs ki nakay Jo rubber k hotay hain aur tanki aur frame k darmian main lagay hotay hain aur 150 labour charges total 300

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    Rust problem never happened if we use bulk amount of petrol in the tank
    People poured very little amount of petrol in the tank as a result tank become rusty
    I always poured 500 rs petrol in the tank and tank is free of Rust

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    Quote Originally Posted by rizwan4340 View Post
    I never perfomed stunts on this bike. I was just riding it normal.
    Very sad incident yar

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    bus yar ab 2 tareek say petrol or sasta ho rha ha suna ha many phir aik bar tank full karvaio ga

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    Quote Originally Posted by muhammedahmed2 View Post
    bus yar ab 2 tareek say petrol or sasta ho rha ha suna ha many phir aik bar tank full karvaio ga
    Main ney b tank full he kerwaya tha aur usi din bike ka weight toot gya nestle pure petrol. 8.25 liter main ney nikal lia remaining mechanic bhai ki zeenat ban gyaa.
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    Yamaha junoon different isses Help required -1522857

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