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Thread: basic mods on civic 96 vti

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    Default basic mods on civic 96 vti

    hey guys. i wanted to do some work on my honda civic 96. i have a 1.6L d16y6 motor, and the car is completely stock. i have a few questions from the forum experts if possible. i also will be entering the car for autocross (first time) in karachi, so i cant do anything big to it or i will be placed in a category with the big boys [bad idea for beginners ]

    im thinking of getting the following stuff in the first go:
    1) lowering my car with maxspeed lowering springs
    2) getting tokico hp shocks for the added wear caused by lowering
    3) an intake system, non branded as ive been told the hp gains on my motor will be minimal in both cases
    4) plugs and plug wires, volt stabilizer and ground wiring
    5) lenso light weight rims, and bridgestone adrenaline re001 205 or 215/55/r15 tires

    later on i will get:
    1) headers
    2) a direct line exhaust (made from piping only)

    could you please advise me on whether or not all this is a good idea or any alternatives you can suggest. also, i want to try not to complete change the feel of my car too fast so i can get used to it as i go, and i dont want to throw away money from the get go, so some relatively inexpensive mods would be appreciated at first. can i also please be told if anyone knows, how much hp my motor might be making stock, and how much to expect after all the stuff im putting first and if there is a way of testing the car on a computer in karachi to find out and how much it costs.

    would be great if anyone could help! and thanks


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    I have got Headers, and clutch pressure plate of vtec leme knw if u want it. some other stuff as well.

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    dont't go for myth mods if you want output,why the heck volt-stabalizer for?you thik that'l result in more hp's? if yes then its wrong.
    ok here you go.
    1)get your flywheel lightened around 1-1.5kg.= noticeable difference in acceleration.
    2)get a 2.25 straight downpipe.
    3)don't go for local made headers,go for branded one's,local made may result in LOSS of power.
    4)lighten the pulleys if you can.
    5)yes get some light weight rims.(don't goo for too much big shoes,u'l result in better traction but poor acceleration.
    6)i found maxspeed lowering springs too much stiff but they turn quite better in terms of cornering etc.
    ''Peace is an unstable equilibrium,that can only be preserved by acknowledged supremacy and...equal power.'' ''We give up the fort when there is not a man left to defend it.''

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    @immad100 thank you for the advice it was useful and intuitive. I was worried about the springs cuz they don't seem to have much variety here in Karachi :s everyone sells those only. And yes branded headers was my idea, but which type do you think are better? 421 or 41? And how much do you think the fly wheel would cost? And pulleys would place me in a prepared category in the autocross :p those uncles are scary good! I did some research on the wires and stabiliser and all. As far as I could see, for old cars it's a good way to minimise loss of power due to the age of the cables and plugs and all. Definitely a myth mod for new cars with new wiring, but I hear there is some power to be gained only in old cars which made sense to me.

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    go for 4-2-1 headers,2.25'' downpipe,flywheel will cost around 8-9k(kabuli after shedding).
    no,no volt stabalizer just make sure you get your oem ground wire in perfect working condition.
    what tyre profile you are going to use,what tyre size?
    ''Peace is an unstable equilibrium,that can only be preserved by acknowledged supremacy and...equal power.'' ''We give up the fort when there is not a man left to defend it.''

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    the tires will be 215/55/15r

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    ammm ammmm ammmm....
    ok get some light weight alloys like lenso 4spokes,project D,or rays BUT!!!!!!
    i say when you go at track,go with sada steel rims.
    ''Peace is an unstable equilibrium,that can only be preserved by acknowledged supremacy and...equal power.'' ''We give up the fort when there is not a man left to defend it.''

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    hahahaha you just asked me to make a big expenditure on 2 sets of rims which of the two would you suggest and why the saada steels if lighter rims are less unsprung load? i hear my car will be easier to lift off with the lenso rims. and considering the whole race will be at slow speeds, maximum i'll only just be able to go 3rd gear for a few seconds at any time.

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    ^^âlloys are alloys man,they can never be as light as oem steel rims,yes alloys look good but!!!! they are comparitively heavy,steel rims look rough but do the work they are meant for very nicely.
    rays are better among others btw.
    ''Peace is an unstable equilibrium,that can only be preserved by acknowledged supremacy and...equal power.'' ''We give up the fort when there is not a man left to defend it.''

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    FOR A RACE

    BASIC THINGS U SHOULD GET STRAIGHT

    Weight Reduction of car
    - Removal of seats except driver
    - Spare tyre , everything from the trunk etc

    Powertrain
    - Proper fuel pressure (no choks - uniform flow) reduce return flow by a clamp
    - Add an fpr if ur willing to change injectors
    - Iridium plugs along with oem (leak-less) plug wires
    - 4-1 Headers (best for drag) should be branded
    - Intake should be added
    - Once intake added (outlet should be uniform) so,
    - 2" dia straight down pipe and branded exhaust
    - Check ur stock Ground cable
    - Light weight flywheel/pulleys
    - Remove ur air conditioner and powerpump BELT for the race ( Free's hp) to some extend
    - Check ur injectors , should be cleaned along with original seals
    - Check whether ur VTEC is working or not by the VTEC solenoid
    - Check Throttle body sensors , MAF,TPS etc for proper voltage

    Transmission
    - Dont wait for FUEL CUT - if it redlines at 7200rpm then shift a liitle while earlier

    Suspension
    - U just need a drop , so go for good LOWERING SPRINGS
    - A strut bar , brace in case of understeer
    - Steel wheels would do the job if stock tyres have lesser width (should be under 200)

    These are just minor things that usually people forget and neglect so better pay attention to ur stock tuning , then PROCEED

    BTW BEST OF LUCK for ur participation
    LIVE 4 NOTHING .........................BUT DIE 4 SOMETHING

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    ^^^why 4,1 headers and 2inch pipe?
    ''Peace is an unstable equilibrium,that can only be preserved by acknowledged supremacy and...equal power.'' ''We give up the fort when there is not a man left to defend it.''

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    yes 4-1's are good for bigger setups, 4-2-1's are used at mildly modded+slight bolt ons setups.
    reason=4-1's have better high end torque, 4-2-1's produce power in mid range.
    ''Peace is an unstable equilibrium,that can only be preserved by acknowledged supremacy and...equal power.'' ''We give up the fort when there is not a man left to defend it.''

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    Quote Originally Posted by immad100 View Post
    ^^^why 4,1 headers and 2inch pipe?
    4-1 are better for DRAG , personal experience - i found out them better
    and as far as pipe is concerned , its just a 1.6L setup and bigger PIPES do nothing except reduce LOW END TORQUE - again personal experience with D seires ( u might be having more)
    The nominal size pipes that we see are much bigger than the inflow actual pipe - our stock ones range from 1.25" - 1.4" so upgrading to a 2" would be sufficient as the Dia would suit the Headers actual flow dia and the tip he could use would be easy to get
    what iam trying to say is NOT end up as a BOTTLE neck with NON - uniform flow throughout
    I hope u understand my point bro
    LIVE 4 NOTHING .........................BUT DIE 4 SOMETHING

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    as they say HP WINS THE CAR and TORQUE WINS THE RACE
    as he would be recing on a track so even if hes in 3rd shift till the end , he'll be kinda in a high end zone so we dont wanna loose either end of it
    Dependence - track
    LIVE 4 NOTHING .........................BUT DIE 4 SOMETHING

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    yup you are right to an extent but.
    the theory is actually that a 4-1 header is designed for maximum high rpm flow sacrificing velocity at lower rpms(so slightly less torque down below). The gradual transision of a 4 -2 -1 header keeps the velocity high at low rpm and builds more bottom end torque, but will sacrifice some flow up top.

    So basically 4-1 = top end power
    4-2-1 = low end midrange torque
    as poster isnt building a high reving setup so its useless for him to go for 4-1's.
    and as far as pip size is concerned,yes i would have said him to go for 2'' if he was going for branded piping but!!! he'l get it custom made for sure as we dont get alot of branded one's here,problem in local made is that bends are freakin badly made that they turn to restrict the flow some times(branded one's have uniformity in bends).
    that is the reason i prefer 2.25,2 is good too only if you are sure when your silencer guy is good with bends.
    ''Peace is an unstable equilibrium,that can only be preserved by acknowledged supremacy and...equal power.'' ''We give up the fort when there is not a man left to defend it.''

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    ammmmm...
    midrange=3500-5500rpm
    highrange=above 5500rpm.
    do the math what is important in an autocross around cornering etc
    ''Peace is an unstable equilibrium,that can only be preserved by acknowledged supremacy and...equal power.'' ''We give up the fort when there is not a man left to defend it.''

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    Lo daso
    I forgot we are talking about total autocross - even if it is , we are clueless about the track he'd be on
    and yes i had an inevitable bend when i went for freeflow on my ex eg , but the next time , the GUY always kept those bends in mind
    AND HE INCREASED HIS RATE ASWELL
    LIVE 4 NOTHING .........................BUT DIE 4 SOMETHING

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    Yeah guys I'm doing autocross not drag. But I will mostly be at very high revs and barely over 70 kmph. Maybe only just shift to third for a few meters haha. Also that's why I need power in the mid to high range, not just high. And the track is usually many variations of very very very tights bends. Slaloms and box turns, a U bend somewhere. I can't touch pulleys or I will get upped a category. Then I'll be with all the truly modded civics and lower level mazdas and stuff don't want that as a beginner. I want to learn to race before doing up my car

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    Oh and thanks a lot for the advice guys. I like this forum didn't expect such fast responses!

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    your car is going nowhere without a big purple neon light under neath....

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