Rejuvenating Santro

[iamadee]

good effort........

[SER_GTR]

@SER_GTR Thanks
Like I described my problems above, engine pickup increase was immediately noticed, sluggishness while shifting gears in petrol, gone.
Shops owner here does not know what carb cleaner is (quizzical look). 12V can fry you injector( it becomes hot), it operates at 6v so why 12v?
When you loosen and tighten bleeder valve while pumping paddle there is always chance of getting air in. Brake bleeder bottle with attached tubes is left over of my HHO project so used here, I also had problems with trapped air in my bike, so this is extra exercise which ensures no back fire.

ECU Operate Them But In High Pulsating Mode....! We Can't Manually Pulse Until We Have A Proper Injector Cleaning Tool So We Recommend a 6v...12v for long can heatup injector coil and can permanently damage...even using 6v...never open injector so more than 1-2 sec...just pulsate while cleaning

the Oil in bleeder bottle makes sure that what comes out is oil and whats goes in is also oil...Not Air...!

I have Done It That Way W.o Any Issue And My Brakes Are 80% Better Than BEfore....!

Just You Need To Make Sure You Have A Tight ZFits And No Air LEaks..Grease On Joints Can Prevent It

[DIY_er]

@fahadsoulsnatcher911 thanks for nice words.
@ser_gtr fully agreed bro. Thanks for valuable comments.

There were some limitations like availability of items and service and injectors were particularly clean except one with slight blockage. I wanted to make multivibrater circuit but seeing them working ok dropped the idea. Operating manually few minutes on 6v won't damage them. Besides we are cleaning them so more flow more cleaning. I did not notice any heat. Even engine itself is hot while running, so I think injectors are made to stand high temperatures.
As for bottle, that idea was purely came out of past bad experience of bleeding :P, I liked the idea- suck from one side and release air from other side by just pressing and releasing bottle.

Just need advice whether or not bleed brakes as brakes are working ok, but don't remember when brake fluid was replaced?

[DIY_er]

Tried newly made spanner. this is image of failed MDF. pvc part hold well and did not slip, torque was high beyond my expectation, thank to garage wala.
MDF was poor choice. Now have to make new one.

Ignore red pencil drawing modern art

[Xulfiqar]

go to a bus/truck parts or repair place or a tool vendor with your oil filter, get a socket of size if you wish or the 3 finger claw shaped remover that takes a 1/2 inch square drive. - btw I usually had a rough plasticized glove to spin the filter. The nicest tool to remove is the 3 finger claw - it mangles up the filter though.

oil filters are very tight on the engine - mdf particle board is very easy to break from that torque.

btw - a little advice I always give everyone, prefill you filter to soak the paper inside - it will prevent hydraulic blowout of the media. If the filter is installed upside down or sideways then prefill the filter, leave alone for 10 minutes, drain out the filter and install quickly. Usually its the last item I install before firing the engine back up.

[zia1288]

kindly share a bit of your LPG experience. availability, pricing and performance are three main aspects to know.

[SER_GTR]

@fahadsoulsnatcher911 thanks for nice words.
@SER_GTR fully agreed bro. Thanks for valuable comments.

There were some limitations like availability of items and service and injectors were particularly clean except one with slight blockage. I wanted to make multivibrater circuit but seeing them working ok dropped the idea. Operating manually few minutes on 6v won't damage them. Besides we are cleaning them so more flow more cleaning. I did not notice any heat. Even engine itself is hot while running, so I think injectors are made to stand high temperatures.
As for bottle, that idea was purely came out of past bad experience of bleeding :P, I liked the idea- suck from one side and release air from other side by just pressing and releasing bottle.

Just need advice whether or not bleed brakes as brakes are working ok, but don't remember when brake fluid was replaced?

When I Talk About Injector Damage Or Heat Means The Coil Inside Gets Heatup Due To Voltage Applied......Its Designed To Work With Pulse Not For Continuous Current..

Anyways...If They Are Working Ok.....Just Don't Mess Much.........Next Time You Install New Brake Pads And Open Them .....Do It That Time......!

Just Be Confident Before Doing.....Trust Me ...Its No Rocket Science......Just A Simple Hydraulic Works .....You Need To Make Sure That You Have All Oil Flowing In Line With No Air And No Bad/OLD Oil.....Thats It

[DIY_er]

@xulfiqar thanks for gr8 oil soaking tip.
I searched tool shops and car parts shops but found none, I think due to long ago launch of santro and no demand. Also tried by hand but filter did not budge, may be zinc plating sticking. These only are available here but space restricts in santro.

 @ser_gtr Thanks bro

 @zia1288 LPG experience is good and economical to some extenct. At least one LPG filling point is available in almost every city, however CNG is available in only metros. Price INR 48 per ltr. Average 16 +- 1 km per ltr in city condition with AC on and off. With petrol priced @INR 72 per ltr, it is INR 1.5 saving per kilometer. I think average is bit low and should set LPG average.

I am using LPG around 7 years, no issue so far. Initially I got one fuel pump changed due to my ignorance and negligence thereafter no such issue. Using petrol start and more frequent petrol use.
As you could see before and after above images that I cleaned LPG evaporator, though there was no oil inside (removed hex nut below), it was greased outside, don't know what caused this? Apart from that no problem regarding heating , leakage and smell issue. I can't differ engine pickup in both fuels. Only issue is local mechanic style wiring in engine bay
If missed anything, plz do ask, thanks for interest. (can't send pm to you it says -zia1288 has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space)

[Sharo53]

aalaaa yar...

thanks alot for sharing...im gonna do same tasks ASAP...

[DIY_er]

@sharo53 thanks.

Guess what this is

Welded dud socket spanner and voila......
After all this is diyer...no !

I was expecting dirt, but see there is none !

First image is of dried very fine powdered nonmagnetic sludge leftover in bottom of bottle, chocolate brown, anyone know what this is made of ?

[Xulfiqar]

oil enters from the sides into the middle - all dirt etc is packed on the media, cut it open to find your dirt in the filter.

btw which bottle had that fine sludgy deposit.

[DIY_er]

btw which bottle had that fine sludgy deposit.

Sorry for confusion - when I cleaned valve and cover, collected cleaner liquid in bottle, thrown cleaner and forgot about residual in bottle, this is that power. What makes this powder? It is fine like talk powder.

[DIY_er]

Curiosity kill the filter-
Two minutes of angle grinder and here's guts of santro engine oil filter

[Sharo53]

bro how u checked the working of fuel pressure regulator?

and i was wondering how much pressure a normal 1.5 liter pepsi, coca cola bottle can handel? before bursting? :-#

[DIY_er]

bro how u checked the working of fuel pressure regulator?

As you see in above images I am holding pressure regulator with pvc nozzle of foot pump in its inlet, I pumped air in it and it released air from other side at about 40 psi, which can be verified from foot pump meter. Which is its normal working pressure. Its loud air release sound can be heard easily.
I further verified it when installed it back. I did not fit outlet pipe in it and operated fuel pump by turning key only and it spit petrol out in bottle.

[QUOTE=]and i was wondering how much pressure a normal 1.5 liter pepsi, coca cola bottle can handel? before bursting? :-#[/QUOTE]

It can handle 80 to 110 psi, search google or test it to verify this

[DIY_er]

Crankshaft belt 4PK770
AC belt 4PK675
There was no slippage but check cracks

[Horse_rider]

In brake bleeding, how to prevent air sucking back, when finally removing the pipe and fitting the valve back.

[DIY_er]

In brake bleeding, how to prevent air sucking back, when finally removing the pipe and fitting the valve back.

I don't understand? Did you fully removed bleeder valve?
The procedure is - you put tube on valve then loosen valve till it starts bleeding in tube. You don't fully remove valve.Before this you pour fresh fluid under hood and than pump paddle.
Finally when fresh fluid starts, bleeder valve is again tighten,then only tube is removed. since there is no air that time in tube, no chance of sucking it back.
Check my image - one end on valve while other inside bottle upto bottom there dirty oil is collected by the time when fresh fluid start flowing it is well above tube end so that air is not sucked in back.
There are videos on youtube.
If you done by removing valve, you definately have air in system, that is why your brakes are pulling to one side. My suggestion repeat correctly full procedure. Preferably bleed right side rear wheel then front wheel, as your car pulls to left side, which means air in right side preventing good braking to right, while left brakes are working ok, thus slowing left, while right side in motion. With valved bottle it is one men job.
I should be doing this coming Holiday.

[Sharo53]

As you see in above images I am holding pressure regulator with pvc nozzle of foot pump in its inlet, I pumped air in it and it released air from other side at about 40 psi, which can be verified from foot pump meter. Which is its normal working pressure. Its loud air release sound can be heard easily.
I further verified it when installed it back. I did not fit outlet pipe in it and operated fuel pump by turning key only and it spit petrol out in bottle.

It can handle 80 to 110 psi, search google or test it to verify this

im afraid of dosing such test..

thanks for the explanation..

[DIY_er]

im afraid of dosing such test..

thanks for the explanation..

Don't be afraid there are some nice ear mufflers available in market
your welcome.

---

Guys here is my version of brake bleeding, correct me if something missing or wrong, thanks in advance -

Full Process of brake bleeding-

Requirement
1. Suitable quantity of Fresh Brake Fluid.
2. Length of vinyl transparent tubing. Diameter ? should fit on bleeder valve.
3. Syringe or pipette or pichkari like sucker.
4. Bottle to collect waste fluid.
5.Jack to remove tyre.

Safety
Do not drop brake fluid on tyre or painted surfaces. Remove immediately if dropped.
Do it with engine off only.
Take care that Jack does not slip while paddling brake. Put removed tyre under axle.

Procedure
1. Jack up wheel farthest from master cylinder or say steering wheel, as master cylinder is usually located behind steering wheel in engine bay. (Left rear). Remove it. Sequence of bleeding in right driver side ? left rear, right rear, left front, right front.
2. Cut length of tube, roughly from bleeder valve to ground level plus few inches more.
3. Locate bleeder valve and fit tube over bleeder valve, you can use grease outside to prevent air leaking in or may secure it by some thin wires.
4. Put other end in bottom of bottle. Pour some fluid in it from step 5. Tube end submerged. Preferable tube also filled with fluid and submerged in bottle. i.e. no air in there. Or use my version of bottle without any fluid.
5. Open hood,unscrew lid,use syringe (w/o needle) suck out fluid from reservoir as deep as you can. Use this fluid to pour in bottle in step 4.
6. Pour fresh fluid in reservoir little below brink. Keep lid off.
7. Loosen bleeder valve one or two turns with holding tube in one place so that it does not turns with valve, otherwise it will come off or try to rotate valve back.
8. Press paddle few times, check if fluid is coming out, adjust bleeder valve if needed.
9. Pump brake paddle repeatedly till fresh fluid comes out, meanwhile also check fluid level in reservoir bottle and refill it. Be careful that fluid in reservoir does not drop out of site; otherwise there will be serious problem of having air in master cylinder.
You should have idea by the second wheel bleeding.
10. Tighten bleeder valve with tube still on. Then remove tube.
11. Repeat steps 3 to 10 with other wheels as per order given above.

Some thoughts
Normally when you press brake paddle, piston assisted by vacuum booster pushes fluid towards brake pads through master cylinder and pipes, fluid level drops in reservoir and when you release it sucks back fluid from pipes and master cylinder and fluid level in reservoir restores. So when you bleed brakes and release paddle its tendency is to sucks some fluid back from bottle. So if tube end is not dipped in fluid, air will be sucked in. This process is slow while keeping bleeder valve open.
Ideally two men are required for faster and air free operation, one keep presses paddle, other loosens valve, fluid comes out and stops, valve is closed, first men now releases paddle. This cycle goes on and no air comes in.
To rule out this air problem I advice using bottle with two tube valves or one (check for green bottle in this thread) which eliminates requirement of other person and air free bleed.