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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Solenoid. Where there is a green connector.
    there should be two of these
    Self Tunning  Khyber G10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -1586611

    one for ac idle up, one for alternator load idle up.
    one solenoid valve can control only one vacuum pod
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    Quote Originally Posted by slakr View Post
    Can you show me the pic please where the choke breaker diaphragm vacuum goes into? i will figure it out


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I don't have a pic with me right now but it goes somewhere near the dashpot i.e the right side of carb. Make sure car is cool so you don't burn your hand while connecting it.

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    bro when you get free kindly take a pic of it and show me it

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - 2vvvSJV


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    Sure will. In the pic you posted there is a filter/check valve(the cylinderical type valve yellow color on left side of valve). Is it present on your carb?

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    Default Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    I got the old pics before cleaning carb .. have a look onto it .. its there but bit dirty

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - nd7ctP0

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - mwfkput


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    just took another pic check it
    please Lol

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc) - btzsALh


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    Ignore it. It got messed up.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    Name:  uploadfromtaptalk1434481078376.jpg
Views: 179
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    Yellow = filter on blue vacuum pipe.

    The blue pipe with filter is connected to chokebreaker, the other end connects to that Y shaped thing (green).

    Red pipe (without filter) should be connected from secondary diaphragm to that Y shaped thing (green), near dashpot and Ac idle up.

    I believe it's right, but if there is something wrong, please correct me.

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    I understood the yellow heading that its wrongly connected to secondary throttle ..i will make it correct but where exactly is the red pipe you marked?


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    bhai can yu do a favour .. take a pic of this area and i will compare it with mine .. i am not getting it pfffffft


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    Quote Originally Posted by slakr View Post
    I understood the yellow heading that its wrongly connected to secondary throttle ..i will make it correct but where exactly is the red pipe you marked?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You need to connect a vacuum pipe from secondary throttle to that Y shaped thing.

    The red line i drew is an imaginary pipe connecting from secondary throttle to that Y shaped thing, to make it easy to understand.

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    i just had to deal with a leaked fuel pipe, this was the one that exits the fuel filter. it was first in drops, when i touched it to determine the location of the leak it got worse. the car was in the garage and petrol was leaking bad.

    in panic i tried to fit another pipe. Petrol vapours were causing dizziness. Luckily i got help, we pushed the car out. Then my brother and i dealt with it. it was 11 at night. i had to remove a pipe from the carburetor to put there in order to plug the leak.

    anyways. from this close call, i would like to warn all the DIY guys.

    If there is a leak, move the car to a well ventilated place (vapour can cause you to even faint)

    get help asap, this is not a one man job.

    remove the battery

    Have all rotten petrol pipes replaced with good quality ones.

    in case of contact with skin, wash it as soon as you are out of the situation.

    Avoid messing with petrol system in the first place, unless you are well prepared
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    And also check petrol pipes throughly, by twisting them in U shape. This pipe looked perfectly fine in normal position, but on twisting in U shape, it showed cracks. So it was replaced.

    Very old photo, but it relates to this issue.

    Another thing, use zip ties to keep petrol pipes from touching hot parts within engine bay, like radiators hose pipes, metalic objects etc.

    Once after a carburetor service, the petrol pipe was lying on the upper radiator hose, which was very dangerous, as the intense heat had melted the petrol pipe and it was about to leak.

    Name:  uploadfromtaptalk1434486417502.jpg
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    i am super pissed with the guys that changed the fuel filter today for reusing a rotted pipe. i wasn't present with the car. it was quite a pain to handle.

    i nearly fainted from the vapour
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    axe.effect I ave got it what yu said but a pic will help a lot .. yu know i aint no technical show me the one on yours car i will get the idea


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    margallar be safe bro .. tighten up the mechanic screws a bit.


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    Quote Originally Posted by margallar View Post
    i am super pissed with the guys that changed the fuel filter today for reusing a rotted pipe. i wasn't present with the car. it was quite a pain to handle.

    i nearly fainted from the vapour
    how are you feeling now?
    My car caught fire once because of a bad/loose pipe after it was overhauled the first time. Thank God the fire was put out before things got out of hand. I can understand the anger....the owner is the best mechanic a car can get these days.

    Which fuel pipe did you get? did you change the clamps? I got a Parkar brand pipe which is working great, even better than Good year ones which are now hard and do not change shape easily but no cracks...

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    for now, i removed one off the carburetor fuel return pipe, will buy new pipe in the morning

    Im okay .....feeling stupid for messing with it at night
    haters gonna hate, potatoes gonna potate

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    dude check PM


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    Green is the thing you are looking for. My car has AC idle up diaphragm there, so taking a picture is not easy.

    Here is @shaidbokhari carburetor pictures, which he posted earlier in thread, he has AC idle up missing, so its easier to look at it.

    Name:  uploadfromtaptalk1434527204535.jpg
Views: 191
Size:  222.3 KBName:  uploadfromtaptalk1434527227754.jpg
Views: 164
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