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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    i did as smijaz said n the water do not start to get warm in rad quickly but aftr like 5 minutes it strtd to get warm up..i think thermostat has gone stuck open!
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    my rad fan kicks a wen temp gauge is a lil higher than middle poit...but then aftrwards it kicks in normally..
    mean wen i first strt the car,the needle goes slightly above middle point n thn fan kicks in n after tht,it strts fan normally..
    this happens wenever i strt the car...is this normal??
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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    my rad fan kicks a wen temp gauge is a lil higher than middle poit...but then aftrwards it kicks in normally..
    mean wen i first strt the car,the needle goes slightly above middle point n thn fan kicks in n after tht,it strts fan normally..
    this happens wenever i strt the car...is this normal??
    It started after Tstat installation ??

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    @cracked
    Have u flushed your cooling system before installing thermostat valve may be there are something in your cooling system that is stuck in the T.Valve so it is suggested to open the valve housing and inspect the valve ur self don't rely on ur mechanic.
    if found something stuck, drain coolant in a container and then flush your cooling system with plain water and then re-fill the coolant after filtering so that any particles present in the drained coolant could be filtered out.
    Secondly check that the valve is seated properly in it's housing.There is a proper border thing present in the housing and T.valve fits in it.When i open up my car's housing for installing T.Valve then i noticed that the rust has eaten up the space for the valve so i have to scratch out the rust with a small screw driver to dig out the valve seat.
    If the T.valve is not seated properly then it could not be able to control the flow of coolant properly.

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    smijaz bhai no it is b4 t-stat instalation..
    fas ok sir i will chk on my own 2mrw n will post results here.

    here is wat happens..
    wen i strt the car,the needle goes up,n then comes down a biit without the rad fan kicked..
    mean fan on howy bagair he needle nechy aa jati hy..
    i think thermostat is workin but its not seated properly n thts cauing stupid behavior of needle...
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    ok smijaz bhai these r the rates i got from market sadar...
    all tyres r 165-70-R12
    dunlop korean one shop askin 3400 n one 3750
    hankook 2950 by 2 shops n one was askin 3000 all were chinese n korean hankook were of 3300 per tire
    linglong 3200
    bridgestone 3800.
    i visited many shops for nexen ,like 6 or so but every one was sayin they r chiense n will become hard aftr year use or so...
    ill try metro on 1st nov n then will go for some brand tht suits my budget..>!!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    smijaz bhai no it is b4 t-stat instalation..
    fas ok sir i will chk on my own 2mrw n will post results here.

    here is wat happens..
    wen i strt the car,the needle goes up,n then comes down a biit without the rad fan kicked..
    mean fan on howy bagair he needle nechy aa jati hy..
    i think thermostat is workin but its not seated properly n thts cauing stupid behavior of needle...

    the needle coming down is very normal. the T stat is shut coolant is in closed loop mode - when it opens up cold coolant from the radiator is pushed into the engine, hence you see it dropping, it will stabilize temperature evenly after its first cycle like that
    ZRS - Zulfiqar Racing Systems ..... - professionals at work - at crackwheels.com

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    xulifiqar
    thing is jahan normally needle ja k fan on hota hy wahan jati he nae needle...half k b half my ja k nechy aa jati hy..
    ill open up the thermostat valve 2mrw n will chk wats weird happenin...plus then in morning,the rad fans kicks on different needle level than in mid afternoon..
    like subah fan half sy thora nechy he strt ho jata hy n dophar my fan full middle py ja k chalta hy...
    n for car to reach its optimum temperature ,it shud take less than 5 mminutes i guess but in my car's case,it takes alot more,like 10-15 minutes
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    ok smijaz bhai these r the rates i got from market sadar...
    all tyres r 165-70-R12
    dunlop korean one shop askin 3400 n one 3750
    hankook 2950 by 2 shops n one was askin 3000 all were chinese n korean hankook were of 3300 per tire
    linglong 3200
    bridgestone 3800.
    i visited many shops for nexen ,like 6 or so but every one was sayin they r chiense n will become hard aftr year use or so...
    ill try metro on 1st nov n then will go for some brand tht suits my budget..>!!!
    Dunlop (korean) available in R12 got a lot complaints like bulging, loosing shape and balance etc

    Hankook (Korean) comfortable but wears out quick also not resistant to bumps and potholes.

    Linglong (Chinese) No idea

    Bridgestone (Indonesian) not recommended coz they loose there grip after few months but remain comfortable till the end.

    Bridgestone (Japanese) will be expensive but it will prove to be the best tyre for your khyber. Its silent, comfortable, griping, long life ....

    Nexen (Korean) is the best buy in its price. Its silent, comfortable, grip is acceptable, some how a bit loose in corners, very resistant to bumps and potholes and punctures, long life, affordable... Metro has Nexen SB702, also check that one out it may save you a couple of hundred bucks.

    Yokohama (japan) same as bridgestone (Japan) or may be better in some aspects like comfort but they produce more road noise.

    I hope this will help you decide.

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    so its between nexen and bridgestone...yokohama k rates nae pta kiay but they were not available in 12's also...ill go to to shome othr shops 2mrw to see if nexen is available..
    but y everybody sayin nexen is chinese???
    n wat to chk while buyin a tire???
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    country make likhe hoti hy na tire py..ill chk nexen afor its make country!
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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    country make likhe hoti hy na tire py..ill chk nexen afor its make country!
    Ofcourse, the make is always mentioned on the sidewall of the tyre.

    Also check out the following thread as i have placed a query on your behalf, the thread starter seems to know what he is talking about so wait for his response also.

    https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/whe...12#post2470308

    best of luck

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    thankx ijaz bhai.
    ive placed query for nexen tyres..so he will tell wat he thinks about nexen...also ur query will b answered...so it will clear things alot..!

    thankx again..
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    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -155371 Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -155372
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    i drove on the very track i used to drive with marshall n trust me there aint much difference..
    the car has gone a bit better like steering is a bit soft now..braking is same as b4..
    n sounds from car is also the same..
    i got yokohama s-707 for ..15000 n my old tyres went for 5000 .350 ke balancing hoi so overall i had to pay 10350...
    but aftr channge i didnt got impressed much..i guess marshall werent hard either..its my friging suspension thts too hard i guess..
    but now wat can b done..
    damn man..
    i thought it was tyres but NO...
    ive got suspenion tightened week b4..still khar khar hai...
    i think steering is dead now n needs some working...

    plus i wana change mobile oil on my own this time...ive bought tht opener which opens the oil filter..plz tell wat instruments i need n wats the procedure..
    cuz im planning to do a engine flush too...
    engine flush liqui moly ly aao ga aaj sham may.ive seen the shop
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    @Cracked
    I am using the same Yokohama tyres for my Suzuki Khyber. I bought them last year at the price of 3500 Rs per tyre. What I have found is that the tyres are soft that is why the grip is reasonable. But the disadvantage is that the soft tyres suffer wear and tear more rapidly. I have driven 20,000 Kms and the grooves have started becoming less deeper. Before I was using Bridgestone B70. I used them for 4 years, the wear and tear were very less but in the end they became very hard and thus the road grip became weak and I had to change them.

    You said that your steering has become soft now. Its only because the new tyres are not that broad/flat now, they are somewhat shrink, once they gain their original size, the steering will be hard again.

    As far as noises are concerned, I am myself fedup with them. Went to a lot of mechanics, they did a lot of things but still the front steering gives kharak kharak sound. Even I was ready to change the steering, but the mechanic stopped me by saying that this steering is good enough, the kabli one will not be better than this.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    i drove on the very track i used to drive with marshall n trust me there aint much difference..
    the car has gone a bit better like steering is a bit soft now..braking is same as b4..
    n sounds from car is also the same..
    i got yokohama s-707 for ..15000 n my old tyres went for 5000 .350 ke balancing hoi so overall i had to pay 10350...
    but aftr channge i didnt got impressed much..i guess marshall werent hard either..its my friging suspension thts too hard i guess..
    but now wat can b done..
    damn man..
    i thought it was tyres but NO...
    ive got suspenion tightened week b4..still khar khar hai...
    i think steering is dead now n needs some working...
    Dont worry , its OK The thing is you got a new set of tyres and they are no doubt very good and reliable, far better than your previous ones in speed, grip, life, comfort etc. Give them a week or two to get in shape and then you judge them.

    How much pressure you are keeping in the tyres?

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    speedster..thnx for ur comments...
    so its with all khybers...tht khar khar...
    lol

    smijaz
    i put 30 psi in all tyres..im thinkin to get it to 28 in all for..n about these tyres life,shop wala told me tht 60-80 k kms tou bary mazy sy karain gy...

    smijaz bhai mobil oil change krnay ka tareka tou bta do!
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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    Quote Originally Posted by cracked View Post
    I wana change mobile oil on my own this time...ive bought tht opener which opens the oil filter..plz tell wat instruments i need n wats the procedure..
    cuz im planning to do a engine flush too...
    engine flush liqui moly ly aao ga aaj sham may.ive seen the shop
    You need a 17mm socket or 17mm ring spanner to open the drain bolt in addition to the filter wrench.

    1. start the car , till the radiator fan kicks in.
    2. turn the engine off.
    3. Lift the front driving side of the car till the wheel barely touches the ground and fully rotate the steering wheel anti clockwise (Handbrake and stoppers should be engaged)
    4. remove the oil cap on the tappet cover.
    5. place a bucket underneath the drain bolt in such a way that it can get the initial oil stream.
    6. carefully loosen up (dont remove) the drain bolt by extending you arm from behind the front wheel.
    7. put on a rubber glove to rotate the loose bolt open by hand, the glove will help you avoid the hot rushing oil once the bolt is removed.
    8. remove the oil filter (be careful as hot oil may injure your hand)
    9. let the oil drain properly.
    10. fix the drain plug back and properly tightened.
    11. get the new oil filter and put some new engine oil in it and on its rubber ring.
    11. clean the surface before installing the oil filter.
    12. tighten it up with hand only.
    13. get the car off the jack and in level
    14. put 3.5L (max) of new oil in the engine.
    15. put the oil cap back and start the engine
    16. check for any leaks around oil filter and drain plug.
    17. stop the engine.
    18. check oil level on dipstick after 5 minutes.
    19. level should not exceed the top mark.

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    hope yokohama's set in good...warna 10 k kharcha mufty may jana hy..lol
    mainy speakers b lainy thy,wo b in yoko's ke wajah sy rah gaey..lol..ab phr wait krna pary ga paisy jamakrny k liay.>
    REAL men drive manual cars!

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