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Thread: Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

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    Default Self Tuning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

    Salam

    dear members/experts

    I own a khyber 1996. Recently overhauled its engine completely at home by myself except the mechanist part. It has its first oil change at 1100Km yesterday and i am planning to tune it. I have following query for the learned members/experts

    Q.1. recommended spark plugs for khyber g-10 on CNG
    Q.2. Recommended spark plug gap?
    Q.3. Recommended tappet setting Hot/cold?
    Q.4. Running was on petrol with Caltex Havoline formula and now i have switched to CNG with Shell helix HX7 10-40W (synthetic) , is shell HX7 ok?

    What else should i do or check to get max output and efficiency from my g-10?

    regards


    after-note: In addition to the above queries, this thread also contains info on carburetor, AC, electrical, cooling system, brakes & gear issues related to khyber G-10.

    Special thanks to following experts :
    Xulfiqar, Fas133, Margallar, Ahsanzs, wasay_Ahmad, Xplorer, jz, Daniyal
    for their valuable contributions and last but not least
    I am greatful to Cracked for keeping this thread alive by
    raising all the queries/question.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Xulfiqar View Post
    your electrician is a dumba$$. either he doesnt know which wires to work with or does not know about diodes. You just need to remove the backfeed to the ignition coil circuit.

    Does not take rocket science to figure out.


    Quote Originally Posted by ahsanonline View Post
    Simple diode would work right!

    Thanks for the information guys. I went to the electician and i told him to remove the backfeed going to the ignition coil circuit or place a diode but still he couldnt understand.He was saying if i could explain him a little more. I will be really thankful if you explain me what he should do and how should i tell him in his language.
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    remove.
    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    It was a leak head gasket. Thanks Xulfiqar, smijaz, metalhead, goodfreind and Rustam for your valuable comments.
    Got the head gasket replaced today. When the head was lifted I saw water all over the pistons. Engine was cooled down before opening. Had to wait 3 hours for that.
    Head gasket, engine oil, oil filter, air filter and timing bearing was changed. Rest all was good. Total amount spent around 4000 Rs.
    Last night the car refused to run on CNG, but now its working absolutely fine on CNG after head gasket replacement.

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -372392

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -372393

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -372394

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -372395

    Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 Plugs valve clearance spark gap etc -372396
    Head Gasket blown again. WTF. Its hardly a year since I posted these images.
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    I hope you haven't been running on petrol with timings too advanced.

    A bad CNG mixture with high timing advance also causes overheating.
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    Head Gasket replaced today. Had to tow the car from home to workshop because the head can't be opened when the engine is hot, its not good for pistons.
    The price of head gasket is just 450 Rs but the labour costed me 1500 Rs. Oil change costed another 1400 Rs.
    Also got the radiator serviced. Paid 500 Rs for radiator service. Turns out that the thermostat valve was not working. Mechanic said that it was very very hard and was struck in closed position. Got it removed. Will place another one before winter starts.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by ahsanonline View Post
    I hope you haven't been running on petrol with timings too advanced.

    A bad CNG mixture with high timing advance also causes overheating.
    No, the car is running on CNG mostly. The timing is advanced but it never caused over heating. In fact this time the car was heated once or twice but after that it never heated up. The reason I changed the head gasket is that the oil traces and air bubbles were seen in radiator and the car started giving starting and vibrating issues.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    I have to replace the radiator cap also. Can anyone tell from where I can buy a genuine radiator cap?
    Last time I bought it from Waseem Autos, Saddar, Rawalpindi for 250 Rs but mechanic was saying that its not original.
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    I have to replace the radiator cap also. Can anyone tell from where I can buy a genuine radiator cap?
    Last time I bought it from Waseem Autos, Saddar, Rawalpindi for 250 Rs but mechanic was saying that its not original.
    Bro, the original one will cost you 500 Rs but if the mentioned radiator cap is working fine then no need to replace.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    Head Gasket replaced today. Had to tow the car from home to workshop because the head can't be opened when the engine is hot, its not good for pistons.
    The price of head gasket is just 450 Rs but the labour costed me 1500 Rs. Oil change costed another 1400 Rs.
    Also got the radiator serviced. Paid 500 Rs for radiator service. Turns out that the thermostat valve was not working. Mechanic said that it was very very hard and was struck in closed position. Got it removed. Will place another one before winter starts.
    do not wait for the winters to come, replace it asap else you will seriously compromise the engine life

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    Performance Plugs and Wires available for Khyber.....
    Platinum&Iridium Plugs,Performance 8MM Wires,Automotive Bulbs and Bosch Horns for sale Contact: 0333-3035482

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    I have to replace the radiator cap also. Can anyone tell from where I can buy a genuine radiator cap?
    Last time I bought it from Waseem Autos, Saddar, Rawalpindi for 250 Rs but mechanic was saying that its not original.
    Very difficult to find one.
    I got lucky and found one piece at a dealer in Islamabad.
    This is how it looks like.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    One of the most difficult things in the world is to know how to do something, and to watch without comment, somebody else do it incorrectly.

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    So guys here Im again with another steering issue. -_-
    I got a new steering assembly in Ramadan.
    The one I got was in same shape and size to the one which was removed, however the number mentioned on it was different (Im presuming its the part number)
    It was 76F0. (Image attached)
    Before installing the steering in car, I checked it and it was smooth with no issues but once it was fitted it had the same problem i-e during turning it does not moves smoothly and uniformly.
    During turns it gets hard then light and then hard again.
    When I leave it after taking a u-turn it does not returns uniformaly, instead it returns in the same manner.
    Do note that the threads of the bolts which hold the lower steering assembly (welded with chassis) got stripped and all new nuts were welded with the chassis.
    Could there be any issue due to it as the mechanic was having a hard time in fitting the bolts on the right side.

    One more thing is that the steering turning is not uniform on both sides.
    On the left it locks at 1.50 turns from straight position where as on right it locks after around 2.25 turns.
    What could be the issue for this and what should be done to rectify this issue?
    @Xulfiqar can you please tell me that the steering I got is of the same model as I was told that it is of the Japanese Model?
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    Quote Originally Posted by daniyalahmad View Post
    Very difficult to find one.
    I got lucky and found one piece at a dealer in Islamabad.
    This is how it looks like.
    What was its price?
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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    make sure the steering rack is centred before installing the input shaft spline pinch yoke and tie rods to the knuckles. The rack mount should never be changed or altered as it requires its correct angle to work smoothly.

    If you dont have the steering returning back (centreing) itself then firstly check the ball joints for any slop or lack of grease, I have even seen mechanics install new ball joints and not fill grease into the joints. The returnability problem is a caster angle issue and extreme slop in ball joints. Check the caster angle and see what is damaged to cause the caster to go off.

    to understand it - look at the front wheel of a motorcycle

    the angle of the shock absorbers is the caster
    as you turn the wheel the wheel slops over inwards into the turn - and forces the motorcycle straight as soon as the driver shifts body weight to straighten the bike.

    cars are exactly like that except you have 2 working in unison. In adjustable cars, the caster is adjusted by a longitudnal setting, in your case, its chassis damage as the caster is fixed.
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedster_101 View Post
    Head Gasket replaced today. Had to tow the car from home to workshop because the head can't be opened when the engine is hot, its not good for pistons.
    The price of head gasket is just 450 Rs but the labour costed me 1500 Rs. Oil change costed another 1400 Rs.
    Also got the radiator serviced. Paid 500 Rs for radiator service. Turns out that the thermostat valve was not working. Mechanic said that it was very very hard and was struck in closed position. Got it removed. Will place another one before winter starts.
    Installed the thermostat valve today.
    Mechanic suggested me to go for Japanese Kabli Valve because the newer ones are China made and they aren't reliable.
    Visited Chah Sultan and bought a Japanese Thermostat Valve. The shopkeeper removed it from some Japanese car engine.
    The valve seems to be in every good condition, the spring was working properly and it was not rusted from anywhere. I think its because it was used with a proper coolant.
    Price of valve 300 Rs, labour charges 100 Rs.
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    Salam, guys. I found this thread very interesting and hope i can get a solution to some problems i'm facing.

    I have a '96 khyber(non-CNG) and am facing some issues with early morning cold starts. It starts after 3-4 tries with choke pulled less than halfway and very light foot on accelerator. Is this the correct method for starting it? Also i cleaned the plugs recently with p100d grade sandpaper; is this an ok method for cleaning moderately black plugs(carbon deposit) ?

    Also its original plug wires have never been changed; can anyone recommend some good brand for the wires? What about Ultima sport plug wires as i read from this thread? Keep in mind its non-CNG.... The plugs installed at the moment are NGK one's; i'm not sure which model but which plugs would you recommend?
    Should i also change ground wires? Currently there's a thick wire going from negative terminal to engine block and another thinner wire to the chasis.

    My main aim is to improve cold start up; thanks in advance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DUDE007 View Post
    Salam, guys. I found this thread very interesting and hope i can get a solution to some problems i'm facing.

    I have a '96 khyber(non-CNG) and am facing some issues with early morning cold starts. It starts after 3-4 tries with choke pulled less than halfway and very light foot on accelerator. Is this the correct method for starting it? Also i cleaned the plugs recently with p100d grade sandpaper; is this an ok method for cleaning moderately black plugs(carbon deposit) ?

    Also its original plug wires have never been changed; can anyone recommend some good brand for the wires? What about Ultima sport plug wires as i read from this thread? Keep in mind its non-CNG.... The plugs installed at the moment are NGK one's; i'm not sure which model but which plugs would you recommend?
    Should i also change ground wires? Currently there's a thick wire going from negative terminal to engine block and another thinner wire to the chasis.

    My main aim is to improve cold start up; thanks in advance.
    Bumping it up!

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    ^^
    How do you manage to keep Khyber non-CNG? Isn't it too heavy on petrol?
    I am using NGK BPR6EGP Platinum sparking plugs and my Khyber is giving awesome mileage on CNG. But its quite heavy on petrol. Does 9.5 Km/L
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    Default Alternator Issue

    My Khyber was running fine but all of a sudden the red lights in the instrument panel started to glow. Then within some time, the battery was discharged and the car was switched off. The car was brought to home by towing.

    The next day, I took the car to workshop, only one workshop was open due to Eid holidays. The mechanic said that alternator is not working, and for reliability, it is better to change it with a kabli one.

    Bought kabli alternator (Suzuki Alto) for 1800 Rs, gave 200 Rs for taxi and 500 Rs labour.
    Is this price alright or the mechanic charged me more taking the advantage of other shops closure?
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    After getting the alternator changed, I saw that the battery water was low. I refilled it upto the maximum level but today when I reach office (14 Km drive) I saw that the battery is throwing water/acid from its caps and the water level has risen. When I filled the battery at night ,the charging was very low. Can this be the reason that the water level increased after the charge or the alternator is over charging the battery?
    "The more we sweat in peace, the less we bleed in war"

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