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Thread: Engine Oil ZIC HiFlo 20W-50 or Havoline Formula 2

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    Default Engine Oil ZIC HiFlo 20W-50 or Havoline Formula 2

    Asalam o Alaikum,
    I have bought Suzuki Mehran 2005 (Registered Sep 2005). Immediately after purchase, I change its Engine oil (ZIC HIFLO 20W-50) the millage of car at that time is 38,000KM.
    Now i have to change engine oil as car travels nearly 3000 Km.

    I hear from somebody that prefer the engine oil of that company whose Petrol stations are available.
    Please tell me that i continue ZIC HIFLO 20W-50 or i shift to Havoline® Formula 20W-50.

    Also tell me the recommended Interval of Change engine oil.

    Suzuki Mehran-2005/Brand/Interval of change
    Suzuki Mehran-2005/ZIC HIFLO 20W-50_______________________
    Suzuki Mehran-2005/Havoline® Formula 20W-50_______________________

    Also tell me that for old engines (As i have 2005) the engine oil 20w/50 is better than 10w/30.

    Senior members, Please give some comments.

    Best regards,
    Usman

    Click here for SOLUTION


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    There are 3 types of engine oils...

    Mineral - (Normal)
    Semi Synthetic - (Better)
    Synthetic - (Best)

    Mineral oils should be replaced at sharp 3000Kms, Semi synthetic can last 5000Kms, Fully Synthetic can last up to 8,000kms (Or even more in some expensive brands)

    Synthetics are modern oils, they are thin oils, they retain their viscosity very well but they are all just available in v.thin grade such as 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 at max 10w-40

    Semi synthetics are usually available in 5w-40 to 10w-40 grade

    Any oil above 10w-40 is a mineral oil. 20w-40 & 20w-50 are examples of mineral oils, and these are v.thick oils.

    Once you have started using a thick engine oil of grade 20w-40 or 20w-50 you should not try to shift to a synthetic oil and also avoid using semi synthetic oil, specially in older cars. You should continue using 20w-40/50 with a drain interval of 3000Kms sharp.

    Going back to lower viscosities and thinner oils can make ur engine seals and gaskits leak. You car can start reducing engine oil as the engine components, seals and washers have now adjusted to a v.thick oil. Shifting back to a thin oil can now casue leaking.

    For brand new cars use fully synthetic oil from day one, and change at 5000kms to keep engine happy
    For low mielage used cars you can use semi-synthetic in 10w-40
    For used cars with higher mileage and unknown oil history, use 20w-40 or 20w-50 of a good brand.

    @miansaab I persoanlly dislike all local oils... use a mineral oil by Liqui Moly, Meguin or look for Micking if you want a cost effective oil. You should use 15w-40 or 20w-40/50 in your Mehran.

    @zeus65 Personally i thick you should drain 5w-30, as its summers, you car is old and you belong to Sindh were weather is hot. You should not use any oil thinner than 10w-40, may it be semi synthetic or mineral.

    Or continue using 20w-50 (shift to a good imported oil brand)

    5w-30 is not suitable for this weather, your car and its range is very low 5w-30 is a winter oil (Does not support a wide range of variation in temperature)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Automotorsport_Lover View Post
    There are 3 types of engine oils...

    Mineral - (Normal)
    Semi Synthetic - (Better)
    Synthetic - (Best)

    Mineral oils should be replaced at sharp 3000Kms, Semi synthetic can last 5000Kms, Fully Synthetic can last up to 8,000kms (Or even more in some expensive brands)

    Synthetics are modern oils, they are thin oils, they retain their viscosity very well but they are all just available in v.thin grade such as 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 at max 10w-40

    Semi synthetics are usually available in 5w-40 to 10w-40 grade

    Any oil above 10w-40 is a mineral oil. 20w-40 & 20w-50 are examples of mineral oils, and these are v.thick oils.

    Once you have started using a thick engine oil of grade 20w-40 or 20w-50 you should not try to shift to a synthetic oil and also avoid using semi synthetic oil, specially in older cars. You should continue using 20w-40/50 with a drain interval of 3000Kms sharp.

    Going back to lower viscosities and thinner oils can make ur engine seals and gaskits leak. You car can start reducing engine oil as the engine components, seals and washers have now adjusted to a v.thick oil. Shifting back to a thin oil can now casue leaking.

    For brand new cars use fully synthetic oil from day one, and change at 5000kms to keep engine happy
    For low mielage used cars you can use semi-synthetic in 10w-40
    For used cars with higher mileage and unknown oil history, use 20w-40 or 20w-50 of a good brand.

    @miansaab I persoanlly dislike all local oils... use a mineral oil by Liqui Moly, Meguin or look for Micking if you want a cost effective oil. You should use 15w-40 or 20w-40/50 in your Mehran.

    @zeus65 Personally i thick you should drain 5w-30, as its summers, you car is old and you belong to Sindh were weather is hot. You should not use any oil thinner than 10w-40, may it be semi synthetic or mineral.

    Or continue using 20w-50 (shift to a good imported oil brand)

    5w-30 is not suitable for this weather, your car and its range is very low 5w-30 is a winter oil (Does not support a wide range of variation in temperature)
    @autmotorspot_lover
    thank you so much for such a great insight.
    You have perfectly described my current situation. And I am totally dependant on the suggestions of you guys who have got the experiences.
    Switching from a high grade mineral oil to low grade semi synthetic wasn't the wise choice, rather say illogical choice.
    I had driven 180km after oil change, haven't seen notable difference.
    So I should drain this one along with oil filter? And can you suggest me good oils in 10w40 and should I also continue with 10w40 in winter as well?
    In castrol magnatec there is 10w40 available but I don't know either is local or imported one, wil inquire tomorrow.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Automotorsport_Lover View Post
    There are 3 types of engine oils...

    Mineral - (Normal)
    Semi Synthetic - (Better)
    Synthetic - (Best)

    Mineral oils should be replaced at sharp 3000Kms, Semi synthetic can last 5000Kms, Fully Synthetic can last up to 8,000kms (Or even more in some expensive brands)

    Synthetics are modern oils, they are thin oils, they retain their viscosity very well but they are all just available in v.thin grade such as 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 at max 10w-40

    Semi synthetics are usually available in 5w-40 to 10w-40 grade

    Any oil above 10w-40 is a mineral oil. 20w-40 & 20w-50 are examples of mineral oils, and these are v.thick oils.

    Once you have started using a thick engine oil of grade 20w-40 or 20w-50 you should not try to shift to a synthetic oil and also avoid using semi synthetic oil, specially in older cars. You should continue using 20w-40/50 with a drain interval of 3000Kms sharp.

    Going back to lower viscosities and thinner oils can make ur engine seals and gaskits leak. You car can start reducing engine oil as the engine components, seals and washers have now adjusted to a v.thick oil. Shifting back to a thin oil can now casue leaking.

    For brand new cars use fully synthetic oil from day one, and change at 5000kms to keep engine happy
    For low mielage used cars you can use semi-synthetic in 10w-40
    For used cars with higher mileage and unknown oil history, use 20w-40 or 20w-50 of a good brand.

    @miansaab I persoanlly dislike all local oils... use a mineral oil by Liqui Moly, Meguin or look for Micking if you want a cost effective oil. You should use 15w-40 or 20w-40/50 in your Mehran.

    @zeus65 Personally i thick you should drain 5w-30, as its summers, you car is old and you belong to Sindh were weather is hot. You should not use any oil thinner than 10w-40, may it be semi synthetic or mineral.

    Or continue using 20w-50 (shift to a good imported oil brand)

    5w-30 is not suitable for this weather, your car and its range is very low 5w-30 is a winter oil (Does not support a wide range of variation in temperature)
    Sir I would disagree on your recommendations. Honda engines should not be fed with 20w50 oil. It is very viscous. The thickest oil for Honda city is 15w40. No more than that. If the pevious owner was pouring a wrong oil, it doesn't seem legit to carry on doing the same.

    Next, not all mineral oils should be drained at 3000 kms. Shell helix hx5 10w40, caltex 10w30, honda 10w30, toyota 10w30 etc are examples of mineral oils. They arr usable up to 5000 kms safely, infact people use them above 5000 kms too.

    Further more, 5w30 covers temperatures of all extremes in honda engines. Temperatures exceeding 40 degrees Celsius can also be supported by 5w30.

    It is true that the poster instantly poured 5w30, whereas he should have tried 10w40 first, but if the car is not bothering him, he should carry on with it. Using 5w30 in place of 20w50 has some benefits too such as low fuel consumption, no drag etc.

    Like I said before, keep using this oil for 5000 kms and keep an eye on the oil level.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zeus65 View Post
    @autmotorspot_lover
    thank you so much for such a great insight.
    You have perfectly described my current situation. And I am totally dependant on the suggestions of you guys who have got the experiences.
    Switching from a high grade mineral oil to low grade semi synthetic wasn't the wise choice, rather say illogical choice.
    I had driven 180km after oil change, haven't seen notable difference.
    So I should drain this one along with oil filter? And can you suggest me good oils in 10w40 and should I also continue with 10w40 in winter as well?
    In castrol magnatec there is 10w40 available but I don't know either is local or imported one, wil inquire tomorrow.



    Sent from my iPad using PW Forums
    Like I said before, don't drain the oil unless it bothers you. I would have tried 10w40, but my eventual aim would have been 5w30 in subsequent oil changes.

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    [QUOTE=zeus65;4873247]@autmotorspot_lover
    thank you so much for such a great insight.
    You have perfectly described my current situation. And I am totally dependant on the suggestions of you guys who have got the experiences.
    Switching from a high grade mineral oil to low grade semi synthetic wasn't the wise choice, rather say illogical choice.
    I had driven 180km after oil change, haven't seen notable difference.
    So I should drain this one along with oil filter? And can you suggest me good oils in 10w40 and should I also continue with 10w40 in winter as well?
    In castrol magnatec there is 10w40 available but I don't know either is local or imported one, wil inquire tomorrow.


    @abuzerkhan, a fellow pakwheeler uses zic a+ 5w20 in his honda civic. Works like a charm in his ride.

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    @hassaaniqbal92

    You can disagree, everybody has their own opinion.

    If you ask any mechanic and any experienced person he will tell you that if you switch to such a thin oil after 20w-50. Initially your car would run smooth and fine, but soon your car would start to blow by! It would start eating engine oil.

    I am telling you this since I am myself linked to used cars business. Hassaan you are right that this oil is too thick for a Honda, but once a thick oil as 20w-50 is used for extended period... theres no going back...
    @zeus65
    You should drain the oil and switch to 20w-50 asap.

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    Well, guys em really confused now.
    Hasan bhai and Omar bhai, ab galti to hogyi he low grade oil use karkay. Now I must change it before engine gets weird.
    Hassan bhai, u are saying that if engine reduces oil then it's worrying
    And Omar bhai is saying that it wil definitely reduce the oil and will affect the engine. So it's better to change it.
    honda suggests the max grade to be 15w40. So shouldn't I go for 10w40 semi synthetic now?
    Any other preferences you guys wanna suggest?


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    Chk inbox

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    @hassaniqbal @automotor_lover


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    Quote Originally Posted by zeus65 View Post
    @hassaniqbal @automotor_lover


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    Hahaha sir merzi apki.. risk bhi apka! Hahaha.. you can consult a third party

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    @ZainMahdi @tintin1 @arzaam.bhatti @NiGhTShAdE please guide zeus

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    Quote Originally Posted by Automotorsport_Lover View Post
    @hassaaniqbal92

    You can disagree, everybody has their own opinion.

    If you ask any mechanic and any experienced person he will tell you that if you switch to such a thin oil after 20w-50. Initially your car would run smooth and fine, but soon your car would start to blow by! It would start eating engine oil.

    I am telling you this since I am myself linked to used cars business. Hassaan you are right that this oil is too thick for a Honda, but once a thick oil as 20w-50 is used for extended period... theres no going back...
    @zeus65
    You should drain the oil and switch to 20w-50 asap.
    i would disagree and this is personal experience, i bought a 2011 gli 136000km driven on 20w-50 petrol oil since day one, i bought it and used Mobil 1 0W-40 fully synthetic and faced similar criticism from so called ustaads and people in car business, friends etc, now its 151,000km driven and its way way better than before, after first few oil changes the engine was perfectly cleaned of all deposits and now its acceleration is even better than our 2015 gli as its on 20W-50 initially.
    If everything is coming your way, you're in the wrong lane!

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    the point is if you engine is already in perfect condition in that it does not consume oil now it wont either with fully synethetic. of latest api grade, make sure its latest as they have better seal compatibility.

    one should follow their owners manual and if it says 10w-30, 5W-30 for all temperature ranges then they should follow the lower viscosities the higher ones are only substitutes if the other ones are not available.

    and the observation that if engine has been run long in mineral oil and will carbon up on synethic is delusional, which switching just drain the first two oil changes quickly like first at 1000km and second at 3000km and then you can safely use long drain intervals too.

    you might not feel much difference initially as the its cleaning out all the gunk that 20W-50 cases to build up over time.
    If everything is coming your way, you're in the wrong lane!

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    Quote Originally Posted by arzaam.bhatti View Post
    the point is if you engine is already in perfect condition in that it does not consume oil now it wont either with fully synethetic. of latest api grade, make sure its latest as they have better seal compatibility.

    one should follow their owners manual and if it says 10w-30, 5W-30 for all temperature ranges then they should follow the lower viscosities the higher ones are only substitutes if the other ones are not available.

    and the observation that if engine has been run long in mineral oil and will carbon up on synethic is delusional, which switching just drain the first two oil changes quickly like first at 1000km and second at 3000km and then you can safely use long drain intervals too.

    you might not feel much difference initially as the its cleaning out all the gunk that 20W-50 cases to build up over time.
    Thank you arzaam bhai for the response.
    Castrol magnatec 5w30 is SN, ILSAC GF-5. So I think, it's the latest one.
    Well, the issue has been that I have suddenly moved to lower grade.
    I could afford draining this one and follow the usual protocol for switching from thicker mineral oil to thinner synthetic one.
    Shouldn't it be better to use 15w40 or 10w40 semi synthetic for my car instead of 5w30?


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    Quote Originally Posted by zeus65 View Post
    Thank you arzaam bhai for the response.
    Castrol magnatec 5w30 is SN, ILSAC GF-5. So I think, it's the latest one.
    Well, the issue has been that I have suddenly moved to lower grade.
    I could afford draining this one and follow the usual protocol for switching from thicker mineral oil to thinner synthetic one.
    Shouldn't it be better to use 15w40 or 10w40 semi synthetic for my car instead of 5w30?


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    yes its the latest one but make sure it fully synthehtic to fully enjoy the advantages, you dont necessary have to strictly follow this protocol its for those who are really worried, even just first drain at 3000km and then normal is fine. i personally did that when i changed form mineral to synethic after draining first one early only.

    now for viscosity, i think taking all considerations, your view that car is 2005, and also keeping mind advantages of better fuel economy, engine responsiveness and healthy engine life you can use 5W-40 fully synthetic. again for your satisfaction ill share anther experience with you that had a 1996 mitsubishi pajero mini and it had been run on havoline 20W-50 i gradually changed it oil first to 10W-40 semi synethetic and then 5W-40 repsol fully synethetic and the car was most happy on 5W-40 with no issues. the actual hot viscosity of 5W-40 and 10W-40 is exactly them same so i would say use 5W-40, it will put you at ease at concerns about using lower viscosities plus you'll get the full advantages of fully synethetic. otherwise using 5W-30 is completely fine if you dont reduce oil initially.

    so as a summary, use 5W-30 for a while and drain say at 3000km, then ask yourself what you are the most happy with best fuel economy or performance, or slightly better protection in extreme high temperatures give by 5W-40 and as its a new experience for you more satisfaction as you wont be thinking you are using too low viscosity in your mind. the advantage of only slightly better fuel economy of 5W-30 over 5W-40 may not be personally worth to you over your personal satisfaction, but please at least stick to fully synthetic and no higher viscosity. 5W-40 is available in api sn in many brands, shell being a good choice, make sure its original and also that its fully synethetic, read the bottle carefully.

    you can can continue with castrol magnetic 5W-30 in future as well, its fine.
    If everything is coming your way, you're in the wrong lane!

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    Quote Originally Posted by arzaam.bhatti View Post
    yes its the latest one but make sure it fully synthehtic to fully enjoy the advantages, you dont necessary have to strictly follow this protocol its for those who are really worried, even just first drain at 3000km and then normal is fine. i personally did that when i changed form mineral to synethic after draining first one early only.

    now for viscosity, i think taking all considerations, your view that car is 2005, and also keeping mind advantages of better fuel economy, engine responsiveness and healthy engine life you can use 5W-40 fully synthetic. again for your satisfaction ill share anther experience with you that had a 1996 mitsubishi pajero mini and it had been run on havoline 20W-50 i gradually changed it oil first to 10W-40 semi synethetic and then 5W-40 repsol fully synethetic and the car was most happy on 5W-40 with no issues. the actual hot viscosity of 5W-40 and 10W-40 is exactly them same so i would say use 5W-40, it will put you at ease at concerns about using lower viscosities plus you'll get the full advantages of fully synethetic. otherwise using 5W-30 is completely fine if you dont reduce oil initially.

    so as a summary, use 5W-30 for a while and drain say at 3000km, then ask yourself what you are the most happy with best fuel economy or performance, or slightly better protection in extreme high temperatures give by 5W-40 and as its a new experience for you more satisfaction as you wont be thinking you are using too low viscosity in your mind. the advantage of only slightly better fuel economy of 5W-30 over 5W-40 may not be personally worth to you over your personal satisfaction, but please at least stick to fully synthetic and no higher viscosity. 5W-40 is available in api sn in many brands, shell being a good choice, make sure its original and also that its fully synethetic, read the bottle carefully.

    you can can continue with castrol magnetic 5W-30 in future as well, its fine.
    Thank you arzaam bhai, that was a very detailed explanation.
    Actually the confusion comes here that previous owner said the car was better on zic HIFLO;before it, he was using castrol ne 3 technology whatever.
    Well, I am not satisfied with this oil change, I wil change it at 1000km, then wil move to the 10w40 or 5w40.
    Please tell me some brands in 10w40 and 5w40.


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    Quote Originally Posted by zeus65 View Post
    Thank you arzaam bhai, that was a very detailed explanation.
    Actually the confusion comes here that previous owner said the car was better on zic HIFLO;before it, he was using castrol ne 3 technology whatever.
    Well, I am not satisfied with this oil change, I wil change it at 1000km, then wil move to the 10w40 or 5w40.
    Please tell me some brands in 10w40 and 5w40.


    Sent from my iPad using PW Forums
    5W-40 fully synthetic will be best in local brands shell helix ultra is very good and correctly priced, otherwise in imported you can have liqui moly mobil 1 etc, in 10W-40 if you must use this then liqui moly's MOS 2 10w-40 is good or mobil super 10W-40 imported is also very good. brands are a personal choice, specs are more important. if i were you i would look for the oil which is Api SN and fully synthehtic and has good number of approvals, if you use 10W-40 than any oil will frankly you wont notice difference and then api grade wont matter either as your can can run on quite old api grades as well as mentioned in the manual. so for best and noticeable difference go for fully synthehtic.
    If everything is coming your way, you're in the wrong lane!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Automotorsport_Lover View Post
    There are 3 types of engine oils...

    Mineral - (Normal)
    Semi Synthetic - (Better)
    Synthetic - (Best)

    Mineral oils should be replaced at sharp 3000Kms, Semi synthetic can last 5000Kms, Fully Synthetic can last up to 8,000kms (Or even more in some expensive brands)

    Synthetics are modern oils, they are thin oils, they retain their viscosity very well but they are all just available in v.thin grade such as 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40 at max 10w-40

    Semi synthetics are usually available in 5w-40 to 10w-40 grade

    Any oil above 10w-40 is a mineral oil. 20w-40 & 20w-50 are examples of mineral oils, and these are v.thick oils.

    Once you have started using a thick engine oil of grade 20w-40 or 20w-50 you should not try to shift to a synthetic oil and also avoid using semi synthetic oil, specially in older cars. You should continue using 20w-40/50 with a drain interval of 3000Kms sharp.

    Going back to lower viscosities and thinner oils can make ur engine seals and gaskits leak. You car can start reducing engine oil as the engine components, seals and washers have now adjusted to a v.thick oil. Shifting back to a thin oil can now casue leaking.

    For brand new cars use fully synthetic oil from day one, and change at 5000kms to keep engine happy
    For low mielage used cars you can use semi-synthetic in 10w-40
    For used cars with higher mileage and unknown oil history, use 20w-40 or 20w-50 of a good brand.

    @miansaab I persoanlly dislike all local oils... use a mineral oil by Liqui Moly, Meguin or look for Micking if you want a cost effective oil. You should use 15w-40 or 20w-40/50 in your Mehran.

    @zeus65 Personally i thick you should drain 5w-30, as its summers, you car is old and you belong to Sindh were weather is hot. You should not use any oil thinner than 10w-40, may it be semi synthetic or mineral.

    Or continue using 20w-50 (shift to a good imported oil brand)

    5w-30 is not suitable for this weather, your car and its range is very low 5w-30 is a winter oil (Does not support a wide range of variation in temperature)
    Seems your informations need to refresh seriously.

    I am having Lancer 1991 model. The previous owner was using Havoline 20w-50 & ZIC HiFlo 20w-50 since more than 10 years.
    But I fed it 10w-40 and it gives me better mileage and overall performance.
    Then with help of experts here at PW, I shifted to Delo Gold 15w-40 which is Diesel Engine oil. But my experience with it is totally “WOW”.
    Xulfiqar bhai even using 0W-40 in his Mercerdez Benz of moderately old model.

    Mineral Oils are good to go upto 5K subject that these are not turning into glou. Good way is to check the engine oil in morning.

    Remember, using thinner or fully synthetic engine oils in the car/s which is/are already using thicker or mineral oils, DOES NOT bring any harm for it until unless its seals or rings are already weaker or done.

    You said you don’t like local oils. Uptill few years back, my thinking was also same. But now I’ve known that some local oils are really excellent. Example Delo Gold Ultra 15w-40.
    Another very technical member syncview is using this oil in his mehran and I am using it Lancer 91 model.

    DO NOT Drain 5w-30 from the engine. It’s the best and recommended oil for Honda city & Honda civic. Why to drain it?
    If someone is living inside Sindh, then next time he can try 10w-40 in summers. But draining 5w-30 is silly.
    Be Addicted To Help Others.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Automotorsport_Lover View Post
    @hassaaniqbal92

    You can disagree, everybody has their own opinion.

    If you ask any mechanic and any experienced person he will tell you that if you switch to such a thin oil after 20w-50. Initially your car would run smooth and fine, but soon your car would start to blow by! It would start eating engine oil.

    I am telling you this since I am myself linked to used cars business. Hassaan you are right that this oil is too thick for a Honda, but once a thick oil as 20w-50 is used for extended period... theres no going back...
    @zeus65
    You should drain the oil and switch to 20w-50 asap.
    Does mechanics have any degree/study about fluids?
    Its us who have to choose which oil is recommended for our vehicle and then what other options we have.
    Vast Majority of the mechanics don’t know the basics about oils, their viscosities, gradings, specs, etc.

    When I bought my car 2 years back, previous owner was using havoline 20w-50 and if increase the RPM in idle it back fires the black smoke.
    Mechanic told me your engine is done, rings are done, seals are done and you should go for overhaul.
    Guess what, I just change the engine oil (Start using Thinner oil instead of thicker) and all problems were solved. Engine is still strong as fit and giving average as 10 Km/L with Piston wala careburator (which majority believes that it can never give more than 5-6km/l).

    Draining the recommend oil (5w-30) and shifting to 20w-50 can be counted in the silly mistakes one can made.
    Be Addicted To Help Others.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tintin1 View Post
    Does mechanics have any degree/study about fluids?
    Its us who have to choose which oil is recommended for our vehicle and then what other options we have.
    Vast Majority of the mechanics don?t know the basics about oils, their viscosities, gradings, specs, etc.

    When I bought my car 2 years back, previous owner was using havoline 20w-50 and if increase the RPM in idle it back fires the black smoke.
    Mechanic told me your engine is done, rings are done, seals are done and you should go for overhaul.
    Guess what, I just change the engine oil (Start using Thinner oil instead of thicker) and all problems were solved. Engine is still strong as fit and giving average as 10 Km/L with Piston wala careburator (which majority believes that it can never give more than 5-6km/l).

    Draining the recommend oil (5w-30) and shifting to 20w-50 can be counted in the silly mistakes one can made.
    Excellent

    +1

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