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  1. #1
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    Default Daewoo Racer/Cielo Fan Club

    Dear All,

    I am an owner of Daewoo Racer since 1995. It has proven to be a very comfortable and economical car throughout this period. It used to give an average of 13Km/L within city and ~15Km/L on long drives. Here are some pictures:


    Daewoo fan club -479355


    Daewoo fan club -479356


    Daewoo fan club -1050638

    Check the links for my rides
    1. Before 2008 (Racer)
    Daewoo Racer
    2. After Jan 2008 (Cielo)
    Daewoo Cielo


    I would recommend buying this car who want a better car at low budgets!

    Any member having used a Daewoo car must share their experience....(y)


    IMPORTANT: SCANNER Facility is Available at Friends Autos, I-9, Islamabad. [Khalid: 0322-5111110, 0321-9562840]


    Quick Links:

    Parts Dealers/workshops link [Page-3 post #:54]:


    Alloy Rim fitment [Page-15 post #:290]:


    The DOHC engine[Page-30 post #:585]:


    Service Manual/Electrical Diagrams link[Page-30 post #:594]:


    Cielo Conversion [Page-57 post #:1130]:


    How to get Black Bumpers [Page-60 post #:1315]:


    Reading ECM Error Codes [Page-191 post #:3804]:



    Air Conditioner maintenance shops [Page-195 post #:3897]:



    High RPM/Stalling Problem on AC, OK Otherwise[Page-203 post #:4048]:


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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    Asalamoalikum
    yesterday i went to electrician to ask him if the fuse boz can be repaired. also told him about him that the auto fan was not starting. he looked at wiring. later the auto fan started but the needle was above the middle at 3/4 of the gauge. and there was steam coming out of the radiator bottle cap when this happened.but it disappeared as soon as the fan started. there is no thermostat valve in the engine. he said the steam was normal as water wasnt coming out it was due to water being heated up and was normal. my question is if this really is normal phenomena and if the auto fan does start at 3/4 of the temp gauge. coz the electrician said the steam doesnt happen if we use coolant instead of water.
    WAS,

    If the fan is starting at 3/4th point of gauge, you need to install a 47Ohm resistance in series to the wire coming from the sender unit. Secondly, the steam you have observed id purely related to the boiling point of the coolant/water. Plain water will boil at 100degrees under atmospheric pressure while the coolant has higher boiling point. When the coolant channel are air tight, the boiling point of water will increase than 100 due to increase in the pressure and no boiling should happen when the starting point of fan is reached and it starts running.
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Quote Originally Posted by asiiffareed View Post
    Dear testdriver and all

    I want to change the engine of my daewoo. Plz suggest me a good and fuel efficient engine. What will be approximate cost with five shift gear with my old engine and from where I should get it done
    Do you want an engine from another maker? If yes, the 4AFE/5AFE is a good choice for fuel efficient setup (although I will not recommend any other engine than its own make). Five shift gear box is only effective if you are traveling for long routes on regular basis, still if you are interested, you can consult any person from page-3 of this forum (link at top post).
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

  4. #6643
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    No dear I am talking about daewoo original engine. What about dohc 4 injector engine of daewoo

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    Quote Originally Posted by asiiffareed View Post
    No dear I am talking about daewoo original engine. What about dohc 4 injector engine of daewoo
    You can go for the DOHC engine. You need complete wiring along with ECM and for safety new timing belt set (broken timing belt = warped valves). If you need economical engine then you have to arrange new oxygen sensor. Another thing that needs to be arranged is the cielo's suspension (shocks assembly + springs) and brake parts(brake servo+master cylinder) as the engine is quite heavier(+30kg) and powerful (+20HP, +20Nm torque) too. To be on safe side, you have to put a new clutch set. Timing set is available for something around Rs.12K while you have to arrange the oxygen sensor with your own research.

    As for the engine swap is concerned, it is hardly a day's job provided all the necessary parts (engine, ECM and wiring) are complete and intact. For latest price quotes, you can consult the contacts page(page-3).
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Thanx a lot testdriver

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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    WAS,

    If the fan is starting at 3/4th point of gauge, you need to install a 47Ohm resistance in series to the wire coming from the sender unit. Secondly, the steam you have observed id purely related to the boiling point of the coolant/water. Plain water will boil at 100degrees under atmospheric pressure while the coolant has higher boiling point. When the coolant channel are air tight, the boiling point of water will increase than 100 due to increase in the pressure and no boiling should happen when the starting point of fan is reached and it starts running.
    thx for the reply....let me attach the pic to show when exactly the fan starts.Daewoo fan club -1513772Daewoo fan club -1513773the first one shows the starting point of the fan and the 2nd shows it when it stops. when the gauge reaches the middle the steam starts coming out.but the fan starts at the point in the picture i shown. the pipes r all okay n even radiator is fine. do u think installing a 470 ohm resistance will show the right temperature n also start the fan where it is required to start ?

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    today i tested to see whats the reason for the steam building inside the rad bottle. so i took off the cap and reved the engine at idle.. at about 1/4 the way the steam started coming from the bottle and before reaching middle mark the water started boiling. and the fan was auto all this time and never came on as temp gauge never even crossed the middle. i also noticed that at idle when the engine was cold the tube connecting the radiator to rad bottle was not circulating any water even when i reved the engine. and it only starting throwing water once the water started boiling/overflowing from the rad bottle. this thing is happening since last winter so i gave up the solution to it but in summer i replaced the entire head assembly with kabli one and thought this problem of boiling water will be over but its still there. failed to diagnose the problem. read and browsed the internet but there isnt any solution just assumptions.. i have ceilo single nali radiator installed and its pretty new one not that old to be not working and last year i flushed the radiator but the problem persisted. so im at loss here what shall be the next step... read a lot of topics for beeding the air out but once u go to actual radiator wala bhai they do their own stuff.so im not sure if there is trapped air or not...and i dont think there is leakage problem coz the water level in rad bottle remained same even after constant checking for several days.

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    The radiator wasn't serviced so I decided to wash it and also tried to purge the air if that was the case by removing the tube connecting the radiator to rad bottle n pressed the bottom hose at first rusted water came then the clear one ...placed the pipe back n topped the bottle n then as I reved the engine the water started circulating from rad to bottle ... This time I closed the cap and again tried to auto start the fan. This time the gauge went to middle without any steam but after mid the water started pouring out thru the cap. n yet the fan started at 3/4 .. After reading a lot I guess there is something wrong with the sensor n not with wiring coz if the wiring was bad the fan won't start at all.. what do u guys think .. any suggestion

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    aoa everybody i m selling my daewoo racer in excellent condition in rawalpindi, if someone really looking for a real nice car may contact me 03216374462 but at reasonable price worth the car thx and regards

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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    The radiator wasn't serviced so I decided to wash it and also tried to purge the air if that was the case by removing the tube connecting the radiator to rad bottle n pressed the bottom hose at first rusted water came then the clear one ...placed the pipe back n topped the bottle n then as I reved the engine the water started circulating from rad to bottle ... This time I closed the cap and again tried to auto start the fan. This time the gauge went to middle without any steam but after mid the water started pouring out thru the cap. n yet the fan started at 3/4 .. After reading a lot I guess there is something wrong with the sensor n not with wiring coz if the wiring was bad the fan won't start at all.. what do u guys think .. any suggestion
    My guess is your thermostat valve is bad
    That opens with delay
    Auto fan usually switch in at 1/3 of green area excluding white
    Can u confirm that while temp needle is inbetween White and green area
    Engine warm water is entering radiator (thermostat valve should open at this time)
    If ur radiator is not hot on touch (careful u can burn ur hand)
    My guess its faulty thermostat valve
    Replace it with good kabli one do not go for new china or so called koren (similar to china one) or buy genuine new which is very rare

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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    The radiator wasn't serviced so I decided to wash it and also tried to purge the air if that was the case by removing the tube connecting the radiator to rad bottle n pressed the bottom hose at first rusted water came then the clear one ...placed the pipe back n topped the bottle n then as I reved the engine the water started circulating from rad to bottle ... This time I closed the cap and again tried to auto start the fan. This time the gauge went to middle without any steam but after mid the water started pouring out thru the cap. n yet the fan started at 3/4 .. After reading a lot I guess there is something wrong with the sensor n not with wiring coz if the wiring was bad the fan won't start at all.. what do u guys think .. any suggestion
    If the fan is delaying start, it can be sensor problem. Does you car emit black smoke all the time? The fan should start within a minute after the boil occurs in normal practice.

    The good news is that after checking the snaps you attached, the fan is working absolutely normal as per the readings.
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    If the fan is delaying start, it can be sensor problem. Does you car emit black smoke all the time? The fan should start within a minute after the boil occurs in normal practice.

    The good news is that after checking the snaps you attached, the fan is working absolutely normal as per the readings.
    @Kamando I don't have thermostat valve installed.
    @test driver .. I also think it has something to do with sensor ...but the car doesn't emit black smoke all the time the needle of temp gauge shown in the pic goes slightly above when the fan kicks in. When i took the pic it was down abit. Will we classify it as 3/4th?. I didn't wanna take risk so for now the fan is direct running at slow speed. The fuse box wiring is also too much entangled but i guessed if the auto fan runs then its not the wiring problem. Should I go for kabli CTS ...last winter i tried to find one but how can I be sure the one I'm buying is not faulty as the seller don't take responsibility of electronic sensors.

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    Hummm
    No thermostat valve.... Then ur radiator is not lossing heat properly.......
    In current weather over long route my temp guage seldom enters green zone
    Unless packed in jams.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by guybwp View Post
    @Kamando I don't have thermostat valve installed.
    @test driver .. I also think it has something to do with sensor ...but the car doesn't emit black smoke all the time the needle of temp gauge shown in the pic goes slightly above when the fan kicks in. When i took the pic it was down abit. Will we classify it as 3/4th?. I didn't wanna take risk so for now the fan is direct running at slow speed. The fuse box wiring is also too much entangled but i guessed if the auto fan runs then its not the wiring problem. Should I go for kabli CTS ...last winter i tried to find one but how can I be sure the one I'm buying is not faulty as the seller don't take responsibility of electronic sensors.
    If there is no black smoke, the sensor is legit. CTS is one of the sensors that control various engine parameters according to engine temperature, faulty sensor = rich petrol = black smoke. Still if you have some doubts, try putting a sensor from your mechanic's shop. If it resolves the issue, then the sensor is definitely problematic. You can ask Korea Autos if they have the genuine CTS available otherwise get a sensor with at-least a day's guarantee.
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    If the fan is delaying start, it can be sensor problem. Does you car emit black smoke all the time? The fan should start within a minute after the boil occurs in normal practice.

    The good news is that after checking the snaps you attached, the fan is working absolutely normal as per the readings.
    Hello @testdriver ..! So youre saying that this is an alright position for fan to start (temperature wise)? seems pretty high up. Do we still need to install the resistor in the case mentioned by @guybwp ??
    thanks

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    Guys daewoo side door panels are available in market??If not whats the cost for used 1s.
    The one thing that unites all human beings, regardless of age, gender, religion, economic status, is that, deep down inside, we all believe that we are above-average drivers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackhawwk View Post
    Hello @testdriver ..! So youre saying that this is an alright position for fan to start (temperature wise)? seems pretty high up. Do we still need to install the resistor in the case mentioned by @guybwp ??
    thanks
    If the fan is starting at this point, this is absolutely fine. No need of installing the resistor (in fact, it is already installed). If we skip the resistance, the fan will start the last point before the red region starts.
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Quote Originally Posted by devilskreed View Post
    Guys daewoo side door panels are available in market??If not whats the cost for used 1s.
    Did you check from anyone mentioned at contacts page? Now a days, there is a shortage of interior parts. If you want them to be made, you can contact a person (Tariq Poshish) in I&T Centre, G-7 (Fire brigade) on the back side of Iqbal's workshop (Daewoo Plus).
    Adnan's
    Daewoo Cielo GLX 1.6L E-TECII DOHC 110PS/5000 150N.m./3400

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    Quote Originally Posted by testdriver View Post
    If the fan is starting at this point, this is absolutely fine. No need of installing the resistor (in fact, it is already installed). If we skip the resistance, the fan will start the last point before the red region starts.
    according to my weak knowledge i think the problem lies with Temperature sensor as i think its not working properly because a few months earlier there was some issue in my car and which mechanics were unable to diagnose and later on i had to over haul my engine because of one faulty cylinder so at that time they changed my temperature sensor and after that my car's automatic fan was switching on somewhat above my normal range. When i inquired about this i got to know that the mechanic installed Cielo's temperature sensor in my car and now my fan is turning on at half and then temperature comes down. What i think is that this guy need to change his temperature sensor and that might solve the problem as it will turn his fan within normal range.

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    AoA Dear Test Driver

    i am silent reader of this page i have a daewoo racer from 2006 now it has some problems my mechanic in G-10/4 suggest me to overhaul the engine and he estimate it from 40 to 45 thousand,
    my some friends give me advice to change the engine rather to overhaul it and give me the logic that overhaul engine is no longer reliable.

    can u please give any advice for my concern.

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