Self Tunning - Khyber G-10 (Plugs, valve clearance, spark gap etc)

[ahsanonline]

My car was jerking alot and after again CNG tuning jerking was present there. CNG mechenic told me that it is due to plug wires and he suggested me to change them. I replaced the plug wires and put Ultima Plug wires 8mm which cost me 800. No there is no issue of jerking. PIC and acceleration is 100% OK. Engine noise is also come down.
But now one more problem is there. This problem was there after and before of canhing pug wires. In morning when i whitched on the car ignition and make a sulf, It is blank. Means to say Ride is toatally slient. No any sulf. After 4-6 attempts a sound like "TUCK" comes out from CNG kit but again no sulf on both CNG and petrol. After 10-15 attempts in 7-12 minutes ride pic the sulf and start up. Battery is also OK. Today I noticed a current on my hand two times when my hand touched the door from where paint was removed. This all condition now.

This is my first ride and I have heard alot about Khyber but ye to Larkiyon sai ba zayada Nazuk Mizaj hai. We have read a story in Intermediate. " A man who was a Hospital" just like that I think Khyber is " A ride that is a workshop"

1. Get battery checked professionally (do not let them check by shorting out batt. terminals!),
2. Get Starter motor thoroughly checked,
3. Get your alternator (generator) tested for overcharging/undercharging with and without load...
4. Get battery terminals cleaned and secured.
5. Check the voltage b/w the 'B' terminal at alternator and battery +ve (rule out faulty wire), should not be more than 0.1-0.3volts (ideally zero)
6. Check voltage b/w battery -ve and some point on bare body devoid of any car paint, again should not be more than 0.1-0.3 volts (ideally zero).

This should sort everything out!

....and if it still doesnt crank in the morning then dump the car, its easier than dumping a gal

[usb144]

1. Get battery checked professionally (do not let them check by shorting out batt. terminals!),
2. Get Starter motor thoroughly checked,
3. Get your alternator (generator) tested for overcharging/undercharging with and without load...
4. Get battery terminals cleaned and secured.
5. Check the voltage b/w the 'B' terminal at alternator and battery +ve (rule out faulty wire), should not be more than 0.1-0.3volts (ideally zero)
6. Check voltage b/w battery -ve and some point on bare body devoid of any car paint, again should not be more than 0.1-0.3 volts (ideally zero).

This should sort everything out!

....and if it still doesnt crank in the morning then dump the car, its easier than dumping a gal

@ahsanonline

Thanxs Bro for your quick reply.

Ijaz Bhai you are from Lahore. Kindly suggest me any electrician/workshop who can do all the above mentioned except dumping, honestly,professionally & economically..

[Xulfiqar]

starter solenoid is dying or the wire is loose - or your ignition switch is dying too.

[smijaz]

starter solenoid is dying or the wire is loose - or your ignition switch is dying too.

+1,

@USB144

starter solenoid is located on self starter (Like a small motor on the big motor) it has wire connected to it on the backside (see it from the alternator side). Remove the wire jack , clean and copper brush it, also clean the terminal on the solenoid from where you got the wire off. Slightly tighten the wire jack with plier to fix it grip on the terminal.

Replace the ground cable (-ve of battery to gear box). buy from a part shop and fix the o shape jacks firmly for yourself.

the above things you can do for yourself (no labour costs ) just remove the -ve terminal of the battery before proceeding. if you got a couple of screw drivers also change the ignition switch (Rs.200) if its loose or sticks in a position or your key gets hot after few minutes drive.

if the above doesnt work, then you need a professional electrician. You can visit a guy named HAFIZ next to wapda hospital, feroz pur road near rehman pura stop. I mostly do these things myself so never needed to visit him but heard about his skill to diagnose a problem.

[usb144]

Ijaz Bhai you are really a helping hand to me. May Allah Bless you by all means.

Today I visited the sethi motors Near Gangaram Hospital. They said that engine & Gas Kit is perfect. Only battery terminals are loose. So they advised me to tighten them. They nothing charged me. I will act upon your advise above said. Key never become hot in ignition. I want to install automatic switch of radiator Fan as my Khyber fan is direct. I have heard that it cost me around 1000 from m.gomery road the genuine one. What you said.??

[smijaz]

@usb144

Thanks for your kind wishes. its always a pleasure to assist brothers like you.

Be sure that you dont already have thermo switch for radiator fan installed but disconnected/by passed.

if some how its not there and you visit Montgomery then also check out Niazi Autos before you buy it.

[fas133]

@Smijaz
Very much thanks about your pin point diagnostic to my car's suspension.
@All
Engine oil was leaking beneath my khyber so i took it to mechanic and he diagnosed that the Oil Pan gasket has to be changed so i myself drained oil,opened up all the 16 nut and bolts and then tap the oil pan with a hammer to loose it as the mechanic used too much Silicone Sealant with the gasket.
After taking the pan out,remove the old gasket from the pan and from the engine block.Then applied some Silicone Sealant to the oil pan and placed the gasket on it and then fit it back to the engine block.(I have not found any clue of old gasket failure)
Now even doing all this the oil is still leaking from the flywheel side where gear box and engine connects.
So plz suggest what to check next.(i have checked it is engine oil not the gear oil because i have recently (three days ago) changed my suspension including steering(Kangi),ball joint,ends and drive axle).
Cost :Rs.70 for the gasket.

This stuff is attached to the filter.

[fas133]

@usb144
Remove the Air Filter container and check that if fan thermo switch is installed in your car or not.

[smijaz]

@Smijaz
Very much thanks about your pin point diagnostic to my car's suspension.
@All
Engine oil was leaking beneath my khyber so i took it to mechanic and he diagnosed that the Oil Pan gasket has to be changed so i myself drained oil,opened up all the 16 nut and bolts and then tap the oil pan with a hammer to loose it as the mechanic used too much Silicone Sealant with the gasket.
After taking the pan out,remove the old gasket from the pan and from the engine block.Then applied some Silicone Sealant to the oil pan and placed the gasket on it and then fit it back to the engine block.(I have not found any clue of old gasket failure)
Now even doing all this the oil is still leaking from the flywheel side where gear box and engine connects.
So plz suggest what to check next.(i have checked it is engine oil not the gear oil because i have recently (three days ago) changed my suspension including steering(Kangi),ball joint,ends and drive axle).
Cost :Rs.70 for the gasket.

You are welcome bro.

Answer the following

1. Were there any loose bolts on the oil chamber?
2. Points of visible oil leakage or dripping?
3. Are you sure oil is not coming from above like tappet cover gasket / distributor O seal or fuel pump gasket or oil pressure guage ?

and in the last if the new gasket is fitted right and oil is not coming from above then its the rear crank seal (flywheel side) tagged as item # 10 in the pic below

[smijaz]

@fas133

Gasket change job nicely done there. i could also see new axle boots in the background.
Working under the car facing up is quite tough as dirt can easily get into eyes and those 16 bolts feels like 160 while opening and 1600 when putting back while holding up the pan with one hand.

Good to see some one like me who likes to get his hands dirty on week ends. BRAVO.

[fas133]

@smijaz
1-All the bolts are loose, i have tightened them three days ago but still the oil leakage so then i consulted the mechanic.
2-Oil leakage seems to be from flywheel side of the engine.(where engine and gear box meets)
3-No leakage from Tappet Cover gasket or Distributor O Seal.
I would Double check it again.

If it's rear crank seal then what would be the procedure to change it.

[fas133]

@fas133

Gasket change job nicely done there. i could also see new axle boots in the background.
Working under the car facing up is quite tough as dirt can easily get into eyes and those 16 bolts feels like 160 while opening and 1600 when putting back while holding up the pan with one hand.

Good to see some one like me who likes to get his hands dirty on week ends. BRAVO.

My spectacles saves my eyes from dust or other materials.Only backache is the problem after such Job.

[smijaz]

@smijaz
1-All the bolts are loose, i have tightened them three days ago but still the oil leakage so then i consulted the mechanic.
2-Oil leakage seems to be from flywheel side of the engine.(where engine and gear box meets)
3-No leakage from Tappet Cover gasket or Distributor O Seal.
I would Double check it again.

If it's rear crank seal then what would be the procedure to change it.

be sure its not gear oil (check its smell or consistency etc).

if its engine oil leaking from the rear crank seal then

1. remove the radiator with hoses and fan
2. remove battery with stand.
3. remove starter motor.
4. remove left side drive axle
5. remove the transmission

Now with the transmission out, you can see the flywheel.

remove items in order of 17, 16, 14, 13 and in the last 10 from the picture given below. Replace item # 10 & 12. For fitting follow the sequence in reverse.

[fas133]

Thanks for the detail.I strongly thinks it's engine oil because it's color is Yellow while the gear oil color was black when my mechanic drained it for axle removal.

[smijaz]

@fas133

when you get the gearbox out, you will be able to see the groove shaft of the transmission which goes though the clutch assembly. This shaft has seal inside the gearbox, if that seal is leaking then the gear oil will seep out in to the clutch chamber and may also damage your clutch permanently. Check it out once you have the gear box removed from the engine bay.

[Xulfiqar]

I think your main crank seal is leaking.. get it super clean then check - if its from the bellhousing and its time to remove transmission - replacing the crank seal is not that hard, you just need to remove the whole clutch assy including flywheel.

[smijaz]

@xulfiqar

I managed to overhaul the distributor of my khyber according to your instructions expecially for the centrifugal advance mechanism.

I was amazed by its effect on vehicles response and acceleration. Thanks for this wonderful tip.

[smijaz]

@fas133

need the pic of your ride's carb (firewall side) showing the vacuum port for the advancer diaphragm.

howz ur car now?

[fas133]

@smijaz
I shall post pic on sunday inshallah because saturday is my off day so would do it positively.
My car is ok except the oil seal which i would change at next oil change.
Could u plz tell me where i could get "Timing gun" in Lahore.

[speedster_101]

@fas133
I have Suzuki Khyber 2000 model and it was giving leakage from the same place that you have mentioned i.e between gear box and engine block. The mechanic took out the radiator, battery, left axle and then separated the gear box, took out clutch plate, pressure plate and fly wheel. The same seal was faulty which is described as # 10 in the picture above. The mechanic changed that seal. I also changed clutch plate and gear oil of my vehicle.