Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild

Tags: #<Tag:0x00000009a097f0>

agoodfriend (RK Niazi) 2012-03-22 17:12:57 +0500 #982

you can use teamviewer , its a remote assistance software and there is an option of file transfer as well which is much faster than any messenger ,

agoodfriend (RK Niazi) 2012-03-23 15:59:56 +0500 #983

Helo PWs , here I charge refrigerant in ac system , as you have already seen how i have flushed and installed back all the system , right now the only thing left is the final leak test , then change dryer and charge gas , I guess it a very very easy task and you can easily do that if you have proper tools , there is nothing high tech in it, still I haven’t see any ac shop doing all that in proper way, I have also done few blunders but I have no other option , first one is that you have to use nitrogen gas instead of air to pressure check the system , as you know that there is no moisture in nitrogen gas so it’s a best deal to use nitrogen to pressure check the system , but its not possible for me/us so I use compressed air which is full of moisture , second thing is using leak detecting dye for leak test , I try my best to find that but fails , most of the shop keeper even never listen about such thing , so again no option other than first pressured with air (instead of nitrogen) and then use a surf liquid to check leak,,,,,,,,,if you find any leaking O ring then change it with original one , local one wont last long especially when system heat up ,
<FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><FONT face=Verdana>One thing I wont able to share with you is the expansion valve service , I take its pic but unfortunately I lost some of my data during data transfer from one pc to other , expansion valve is the alternate of orifice tube which reduces pressure, and I never see any car ac system with orifice tube but there are car ac systems which come with orifice tube , any how all Pakistani cars comes with expansion valve systems , which some times get stuck and need service/replacement , it s installed inside the evaporator casing under the dash board , simply remove it and flush it , I gave it a test by putting its sensor in cold water , it was working fine so I haven’t change it , if it need to change then buy 100% same , in my case the ac system is filled with steel mesh of broken compressor , means it really need some serious service/flushing from inside and for that I use CTC which you guys have already seen , I guess you can use carburetor cleaner as well as it also evaporated very quickly and leave no residues , always remove all the O rings before flushing with CTC as it can damage the rubber , one more thing I want to say that you can easily flush the evaporator and condenser with the system compressor installed in car , its little tricky but possible , but I recommend you batter buy a external compressor because you cant charge refrigerant without that, <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<TBODY><TR style="mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes"><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; PADDING-LEFT: 5.4pt; WIDTH: 6.65in; PADDING-RIGHT: 5.4pt; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt" vAlign=top width=638 colSpan=3>

R 134a Ambient Temperature Pressure Chart<o:p></o:p>

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Ambient Temperature °F/°C<o:p></o:p>

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Low-Pressure Gauge<o:p></o:p>

High-Pressure Gauge<o:p></o:p>

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65°F (18°C)<o:p></o:p>

25-35 psi / 172-241 kPa<o:p></o:p>

135-155 psi / 931-1069 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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70°F (21°C)<o:p></o:p>

35-40 psi / 241-276 kPa<o:p></o:p>

145-160 psi / 1000-1103 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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75°F (24°C)<o:p></o:p>

35-45 psi / 241-310 kPa<o:p></o:p>

150-170 psi / 1034-1172 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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80°F (27°C)<o:p></o:p>

40-50 psi / 276-345 kPa<o:p></o:p>

175-210 psi / 1207-1448 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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85°F (29°C)<o:p></o:p>

45-55 psi / 310-379 kPa<o:p></o:p>

225-250 psi / 1551-1724 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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90°F (32°C)<o:p></o:p>

45-55 psi / 310-379 kPa<o:p></o:p>

250-270 psi / 1724-1862 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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95°F (27°C)<o:p></o:p>

50-55 psi / 345-379 kPa<o:p></o:p>

275-300 psi / 1896-2068 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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100°F (38°C)<o:p></o:p>

50-55 psi / 345-379 kPa<o:p></o:p>

315-325 psi / 2172-2241 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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105°F (27°C)<o:p></o:p>

50-55 psi / 345-379 kPa<o:p></o:p>

330-335 psi / 2275-2310 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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110°F (27°C)<o:p></o:p>

50-55 psi / 345-379 kPa<o:p></o:p>

340-345 psi / 2344-2379 kPa<o:p></o:p>

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<o:p></o:p>
When I charge the gas the ambient temp was 28DC , means my low and high side pressure must be between 40-50 and 175-210 psi respectively , I don’t know how ac shops charge gas with out looking at ambient temp , one thing you have listen from them is that the low side pressure must be around 20 psi , don’t know the logic behind all that , and many ac shops just connect one guage with low side only , no need to check the high side , again no logic for that , always remember that you have to take the reading of high and low side guage while the engine is running on stable RPM of about 1500 , its very important
<o:p></o:p>
LOW pressure gauge ,,,,,,,,,,,,When the reading is between 25 and 40 psi with the A/C running, stop charging at that time . The system is fully charged and should be cooling normally. DO NOT add any more refrigerant. If the gauge is over 50 psi, you have overcharged the system with too much refrigerant. ,,,,,,,,,,,High pressure gauge,When the reading gets up around to 250 psi, stop charging , The system is fully charged and should be cooling normally. DO NOT add any more refrigerant.<o:p></o:p>
If the low side and the high side pressure is low that indicate low charge,,,,,,,,,,,,If the low side is low and the high side is high that indicate the blockage in the expansion valve ,,,,,,,,,,If the low side is high and the high side is low and if the gauges needles are vibrating than it mean there is a fault in compressor valves ,,,,,,,,,,,,If the low side and your high side are high that means system is over charge, stop pressure is over 100 psi.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,If low side is closer to 30 then colder the car is and if the high side is closer to 150 then colder the car is
One more thing is that you have to be careful about the comp oil , you must use the right oil in the right quantity , oil grade and quantity usually stamped on the back of compressor , so batter buy you own oil and take it to the ac shop and ask the ac mechanic to first flush the compressor by that new oil and then remove all the oil from the comp and then fill the new and clean oil in the exact quantity , Pour the oil very slowly into the intake port or low side of the compressor. This is where the large line entered. While pouring in the refrigerant oil, rotate the hub and clutch slowly to let the oil enter the compressor. Once that is completed, lay the compressor down on the hub for 10 minutes to let the oil seep into and lubricate the front seals to prevent leaks on startup. , I have seen ac mechanic use old comp oil which is pulled from the kitchen fridge and freezer compressor , that oil has a typical smell and a experienced person can easily find out what the hell is that , that oil cant be used in R134a units , and also it cant be mixed with the oil which is already there in the compressor , so I suggest pull the comp out and first flush it with new oil , and then fill it with new oil ,
That’s it for now and this is the last major post of this thread , few more will come soon like compression and engine oil pressure check ,
Any how check the pic they will mostly speak them self
Best of luck ,

agoodfriend (RK Niazi) 2012-03-24 06:54:51 +0500 #984

agoodfriend (RK Niazi) 2012-03-24 16:04:29 +0500 #985

cracked (cracked) 2012-03-25 06:39:51 +0500 #986

cant you make some video of how to recharge AC gas? pictures are hard to understand for someone totally noob on how to do it! video would be better and easy for you and for followers!

agoodfriend (RK Niazi) 2012-03-25 14:28:56 +0500 #987

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-03-25 20:00:09 +0500 #988

You can also shroud the compressor so air can flow to the back of it from its rear, this shroud also serves purpose to shield the compressor from the blazing heat of the exhaust manifold.

In older cars specially Hondas of the 80s and 90s that came from Japan, the compressor had such a shroud made of sheet metal, The shroud air intake used to face the radiator fan air draft path, with engine running and the car on a lift, you could test this by actually feeling the air being exhausted sideways from the rear of the compressor.

Sadly our local zabardast A/C mechanics threw out those shrouds (aka shields) because it used to cut their hands.

I did a few Mehran A/C installations once, in which the A/C compressor was mounted in front of the engine like this one and the alternator at the back, I also made a shroud for it, it really helped keeping the compressor working happily all day long.

btw - nice work - proper A/C workings, I wish more and more people follow such practice so we can actually have better quality service from these chor-bazaar commercial shops.

dms664 2012-03-25 21:16:51 +0500 #989

from where we can buy this aluminum tape

shazaryab (shazaryab) 2012-03-26 04:33:46 +0500 #990

You can buy it from Ac spare part shops it also called DUCT tape.

agoodfriend (RK Niazi) 2012-03-26 18:13:25 +0500 #991

Xulfiqar;3290988:

You can also shroud the compressor so air can flow to the back of it from its rear, this shroud also serves purpose to shield the compressor from the blazing heat of the exhaust manifold.

In older cars specially Hondas of the 80s and 90s that came from Japan, the compressor had such a shroud made of sheet metal, The shroud air intake used to face the radiator fan air draft path, with engine running and the car on a lift, you could test this by actually feeling the air being exhausted sideways from the rear of the compressor.

Sadly our local zabardast A/C mechanics threw out those shrouds (aka shields) because it used to cut their hands.

I did a few Mehran A/C installations once, in which the A/C compressor was mounted in front of the engine like this one and the alternator at the back, I also made a shroud for it, it really helped keeping the compressor working happily all day long.

btw - nice work - proper A/C workings, I wish more and more people follow such practice so we can actually have better quality service from these chor-bazaar commercial shops.

many thanks , well about the comp sheld , i think there is no enough space becuse as you know its not fitted with original comp and the clearance between comp and condencer is very less , but i will try to do some thing for that , there is a plastic cover installed below the comp which covers all the fan belts against mud/water , its not installed there and i guess comp will get some air from there , its installed on my 07 cultus and i noticed that the comp is all and all covered so that the only air which it gets is from the condencer fan ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,means it gave a -ve effect and heatup the comp ,,,,,,,,,,i guess removing that plastic sheld can also improve the comp cooling ,,,,,,,,,,,,,
and about mechanics ,,,,,,,,,,,i dont know whats wrong with me and my temparement that when i ever i go to any mechanic/workshop ,,,,,,,i just end up in messing with them ,,,,,,,,,,so i always avoide going to workshop and i prefer buying/collecting tools and use your own skill ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,you can see how complicated these jobs are ,,,,,,,,,,,,new tech engines ,,,,,,,,efi , vvti , and many many other things,,,,,,,,,,,,,its some times hard for us then how can these illiterate mechanics can master all that ,,,,,,,,,,,they can hardelly wirte there names and i can never ever allow any mechanic to even open my car bonnet ,,,,,
any how thanks for the guidence and help that was the last work on this car , now i am planning to gave a compression and oil pressure check , although car just fly on road , engine accleration is really very impressive but still i want to gave a test ,

agoodfriend (RK Niazi) 2012-03-26 18:51:43 +0500 #992

today i just noticed that my thread has been crosed 50K views , that really amazing ,

Devastator (Devastator) 2012-03-26 19:04:22 +0500 #993

^with exactly 50 pages atm!
@op man this thread is an amazing job, WAY BETTER then the cultus' original manual book I BET
keep up the good work of spreading wisdom!

mazamwarraich (mazamwarraich) 2012-03-27 01:00:51 +0500 #994

this is good manual if some one have little skill. only deficiency in this thread or manual is engine overhauling. which goodfriend already said i didn't thought of posting it on PW so didn't make the pictures. i will suggest again overhaul engine of some other cultus and help some one cultus owner and complete this manual.

can we use aluminium baking sheet if aluminium tape is not available?

agoodfriend (RK Niazi) 2012-03-27 11:14:31 +0500 #995

well its a mistake that i havent save any pic for that , later i even offer my friends to overhaul there cultus engine just for the pic but they refuse as its already fit and no need to overhaul,,,,,,,yes you can use the alminum foil used in kitchen ,,,,,,,,,but the tape is availave on every fridge spare parts store at just 150Rs

xzap042 (xzap042) 2012-03-27 13:02:26 +0500 #996

what about the transmission oil. have you changed that?

agoodfriend (RK Niazi) 2012-03-27 15:05:02 +0500 #997

yes i have changed it with guard gear oil , next time i will prefer caltex , caltex not as thick as zic and guard ,

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-03-27 22:18:39 +0500 #998

agoodfriend;3292399:

many thanks , well about the comp sheld , i think there is no enough space becuse as you know its not fitted with original comp and the clearance between comp and condencer is very less , but i will try to do some thing for that , there is a plastic cover installed below the comp which covers all the fan belts against mud/water , its not installed there and i guess comp will get some air from there , its installed on my 07 cultus and i noticed that the comp is all and all covered so that the only air which it gets is from the condencer fan ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,means it gave a -ve effect and heatup the comp ,,,,,,,,,,i guess removing that plastic sheld can also improve the comp cooling ,,,,,,,,,,,,,
and about mechanics ,,,,,,,,,,,i dont know whats wrong with me and my temparement that when i ever i go to any mechanic/workshop ,,,,,,,i just end up in messing with them ,,,,,,,,,,so i always avoide going to workshop and i prefer buying/collecting tools and use your own skill ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,you can see how complicated these jobs are ,,,,,,,,,,,,new tech engines ,,,,,,,,efi , vvti , and many many other things,,,,,,,,,,,,,its some times hard for us then how can these illiterate mechanics can master all that ,,,,,,,,,,,they can hardelly wirte there names and i can never ever allow any mechanic to even open my car bonnet ,,,,,
any how thanks for the guidence and help that was the last work on this car , now i am planning to gave a compression and oil pressure check , although car just fly on road , engine accleration is really very impressive but still i want to gave a test ,

That mudshield for the belts is necessary in two factors, one obviously that it protects the belts from mud/water etc. secondly it ensures that all air is being exhausted from the engine bay under the bulkhead firewall when the car moves forward. All the plastic panels that go under the car are put on for this reason too.

You should see our mechanics work on diesel engines or even european origin petrol engines, they usually completely screw it up and then try to prove themselves right, The old BMW 316i timing belt replacement requires a E torx socket to undo the cam pulley then you need a tool to lock the cam at TDC, the tool is just a plate of steel with a square cutout that can hold the cam cutout, The cam pulley has some freeplay to compensate for machining tolerances hence they use a cam lock tool. Our mechanics try to set it by "andaaza" and result in a bad running engine or damage.

Same with the poor Fiat uno Diesel.

I can imagine your agony when you see such monkeys with tools trying to work on engines, And I hate it when instead of investing in tools that would ease their work they damage the car or something else. e.g. on most MB and BMW engines there are some really odd spaced bolts and nuts that you cannot reach with a ratchet, it is required that you use an offset spinner that looks like a bone. Takes half a minute to undo such bolts with such tool. Our dimagh se farigh mechanics refuse to invest in such items.

It is partly our local people's fault too - they insist on "jugaarbazi" rather than correct repair, they wait for failure then do maintenance rather than do preventive maintenance. Its the same everywhere, HVAC, cars, building etc.

imranbhatti (Imran Bhatti) 2012-03-28 03:56:42 +0500 #999

@Xulfiqar

Fiat Uno 1.7D! I have sweet memories with that car. The only major issue i was having wen i bought that car was it used to give excessive Whitish blue smoke at cold start But only at idle. I was unable to get it solved even after a lot of struggle which includes consulting Fiat authorised mechanic, The most famous Diesel laborotary in LAhore & my routine mechanic.
But the I day luckyly the problem got solved Within an hour just for Rupees 500/-.
That time my car was at workshop for Bumper's paint job & in adjacent work shop a HTV mechanic who used to work on Bed Ford, Fiat, Mazda & Nissan UD etc was visiting some of his friends he see the car giving exessive smoke & he him self ask my mechnic that why dont he fix that, My mechnic said that "fault is beyond our limits so we didnt". Then the HTV mechanic him self ask to fix the issue, my mechanic call me to get go ahead which i allows & believ me that guy fix it in minutes.

That HTV mechanic also did it based on "Andaza" but obviously he was atleast capable enough to Daignose the root cause. I must say that Raje motor is the responsible for gettin g this famous brand & Model a big flop is Pakistan Coz neither they imported sufficient spare parts for that car nor they hire & developed good service men.

Its dilemma of our nation that we used to do short term corrective measures instaed of preventive:(

scorpion80 (scorpion80) 2012-03-28 04:32:23 +0500 #1000

sir, this thread is a user manual for cultus owner ...
i guess this thread will have 100,000 views soon !!!

Xulfiqar (Xulfiqar) 2012-03-28 05:15:56 +0500 #1001

as you said - the guy worked on english diesels, with similar lucas hydraulic governor pumps like the fiat had, he must have worked on enough pumps to get a feel for it. But the issue is that you cannot have an average joe have a feel for 50 different types of engines, It takes calculated and measureable approaches.

The fiat timing belt setup and pump setup is very simple if you have the correct tools, if you dont then its an open letter for disaster. Mechanics even screw up the fuel filter change on that car.