It has been said by some-one ?Get lost in nature, you will find yourself?
It is really depicted accurately as we left our bored and dull routine life to have sigh in pure nature, we not only find ourselves, but also we cannot stop thinking about the greatness of our Creator. Who has created all very magnificent.
We four member were spending a very rough and tough life. We started our journey 3 years before. Our first visit was to the jewel of Hymalyan Rang, Kaghan Vale. Pakistan is really bestowed with the best of natural beauty.
Figure 1 Saifulmulot, Malka Parbat 2012
This year, 2013 we planned to visit a very beautiful and virgin valley of Gilgit Baltistan. That spot was given name by an Austrian climber as Fairy Meadows. This vale is situated under the foot of Mighty Mountain Nanga Parbat. World 9th highest and Pakistan?s 2nd highest peak with the height of 8,126 meter above sea level. This mountain is also called Killer Mountain as the 60 to 70 percent climber died while climbing.
*There I should clarify that the recent incident when some foreigners were assassinated by alleged Tehrik Taliban Pakistan. That incident took place in Diamer Face of Nanga Parbat. While media started to show that incident took place in Fairy Meadows face. This face is always safe and secure and always remained attractive to nature lovers and trekker.
Our planning for Fairy Meadows was started about 3 to 4 months before. We started to gather relative information like ?How to reach there, Budgetary estimates, luggage should be brought by us etc etc etc?
IT helped us a lot; we used Facebook and Google to get information. Website like Pakwheels helped a lot other source was Face book. I joined a page Karachi based group developed this page, named ?Fairy Medows & Nanga Parbat? a lot of information was shared there. Admin of this page make our contact with Ahmad bhai ?a local Guide?. We also got help from Mr. Ahmad. He also helped us a lot to prepare our visit.
Our plan got successful after the other day of Eid-ul-Fitr. On 10-08-2013 we gathered at Abdullah Travels at 09.00 pm and left Lahore at 01.00 a.m 11.08.2013 through Faisal Movers. Some other groups were also going to Fairy Meadows.
At Morning 06.00 a.m we reached Rawalpindi at Faizabad Station. Got taxi and reached Natco office at PirWadai Bus Station. Natco Buses were to left at 03.00 p.m, but we did?t bought Natco?s tickets and purchased tickets of available coaster which was leaving at 09.00 a.m. 2 hrs we spent there in Landa Bazar of PirWadai Station where Mr. Waqar Puchased 3rd graded Jogger as he could?t brought with him. Then Breakfast was taken. But that was very poor experience in Rawalpindi and we don?t have good words for Pindi?s People and their food.
Eventually, we boarded the coach at 08.50 a.m. Coach left the station at about 09.10 a.m. Fortunately, we had a good company in coach. Some other tourists were also there. They added more information and shared their experiences. Our Coach driver was a religious man and he did?t have any Audio Player in vehicle so the whole journey was without music or ma$ti. But we managed it by our ownselves, Mr Waqar had Mini woofer with him. He played different songs on the way.
At 11.00 a.m we reached near Abbotabad. There was a huge traffic mess. And we had to wait there approximately 4 hrs on the road to cross that traffic jam. Traffic Lines were till Mansehra and this mess was due to rush of tourist to Naran after Eid days and we freed ourselves after crossing Mansehra. Now our coach was running at it max. It was a pleasant memory for all us as we were travelling through world wonder Korakoram Highway alongwith Green beautiful hills, zig-zagging all the way, playing hide & seek in mountains with Sun rays and beautiful cottages and houses along the road.
Figure 2 near Abbotabad, Traffic Mess
Batgaram was a beautiful and scenic sight. Truly speaking all the road was a beautiful and nature exposing area. Really we spelled bounded all the way. One of our companions was first time in mountains and he won?t like to leave any scenic beauty un-captured. His mobile camera was all the way busy in saving the beauty. His mouth was opened all the way and saying again and again wow, ?What a beauty is here?. Our experience was totally against our expectations, we were considering that after Mansehra, there will be very few populations and whole area will be dense jungle only or bare lands. But we saw that all the way beautiful houses, big bazaars with Banks, ATMs etc. Anyhow, all this was new to our information and experience but all this was pleasant and mind-blowing beauty. On the way a scene was really eye catching, sun rays were peeping into hills through dense clouds. It was like a fancy land and such scenes were seen by me before only in Computer Wallpapers. Now I am having sight in front of me live. I could not stop myself to pray God and praise this beauty of nature. Really I got lost in nature. Sun was cladding the green peaks with golden cloaks. How much lucky people are living there and having daily dose of natural beauty to soothe their eyes. After some distance there was a bridge constructed on Indus River by china. Bridge was elegantly constructed and increased the beauty of area. I hastily prepared my camera to capture the scenery. I can even made a slight movie of bridge and my fellow passenger barred me to make movie as security officials don?t allow this.
Here is the point from Indus River come along us the whole way to Raikot Bridge. There was a police post and military post on the other end of bridge. We have to show our N.I.Cs. Security Officials were more concern about the foreigner especially Afghan natives. After clearance we were allowed to move on. KKH was really amazing and graceful. It was dusk time now and darkness started prevailing the valleys. Lights of homes on hill started to blink. It was like we are in fancy land where virgin beauty of nature is welcoming us to get penetrated more and more in it. Our coach driver was driving briskly in try to cover maximum area before darkness. At a spot not known to me, we stopped to say prayer Maghrib. It was little mosque. We said prayer and move away. Now, it was fully darkness. Huge hills looks like giants on the way and we were travelling like on the foot of giant who at any time can engulf us. With the mixture of emotions and fear we were travelling on KKH. And quenching the thirst of our eyes.
Darkness now covered the whole vale and this experience was new to us to travel in darkness is such huge mountains. We saw a shining star up above the hill. I said it is the star and shining too much. A friend of mine told that is not a star. That is a house with electric bulb. We really astonished to see this. How people do live at such height. Really they brave people. [Hats off]. Wherever the population is more. It looks like stars are shining below us. Really mesmerizing view. We cannot expel this sight out of our memory. Ahead was Besham City of KPK. Tiredness encircled us. Our driver stopped the vehicle in front of a hotel and asked us all to stay night here afterward we will move ahead. This was because he knew that from this point we have to wait for convoy making by Police post some 2 KM ahead of this hotel. So better was to stay in hotel. We managed to get a room for 4 persons at very reasonable amount of Rs. 400 only. We took shower and got fresh. Had a sound sleep. At 2.00 a.m we have to got up to start our journey again. At this time other passenger vehicles like NATCO etc were also arrived. So we were leading and ahead of all other vehicles reached the post. At this post every driver and vehicle has to register. Some foreigners were also within the convoy. They also have to get registered. It was Fajar Prayer time now; we said prayer in nearby mosque. Some of our fellow passengers were sleeping in mosque. I also had a brief sleep there. From this point Kohistan District of KPK starts and Police allowed the passenger vehicles in the form of convoy. All passenger vehicles were gathered there at 8.00 a.m we were allowed to move-on. A police van was leading in front of convoy and one police van was behind the last vehicle. So to protect the passenger vehicles from any bad incident. Vehicles were moving at maximum speed.
Figure 3 at besham Police Check Post Dawn time
Indus River was giving its company. We were also playing hide and seek in hills. At some points we traveled at the level of river?s bed. At some other points we traveled at height from river looks like a water stream only. At about 10 a.m we were at Dasu. A major city of Kohistan District. Here we took breakfast. Breakfast was not very good and was very costly. Bread was so hard, we hardly ate 1 bread. Here for information, a power project is under construction. A run-on river project is undergoing to produce electricity. But the pace of construction work is very low. Dasu is the sight from onward, all hills were naked. I said naked because these hills were without forest. Barely a little number of pine trees were on top. Most of the rocks were burned due to sun light. Hot season and direct sun light burn these rocks to black color. A wall of bare mountains was alongside of road. Other side was occupied by Indus. Here scenery has its own beauty. We have not seen such sights before. So we were little afraid. Huge and high cliffs of mountainous rocks. A single rock was so huge that we cannot see its upper tip. On the way we saw the sight of Diamer Bhasha Dam. We saw the tunnel prepared for diverting water channel. A security van was at the gate of that tunnel. Marking was made by WAPDA on hill. Water level was also marked on the hill. Govt. should boost the construction work on Diamer Bhasha Dam. Because Bhasha Dam will produce not only 4500 Mega Watt of electricity but also give a storage of water for consumption in dry season. After an hour we reached Diamer District also called Chillas. Here our convoy stopped for about 5 minutes. Onward journey was about 60 KM left to reach Raikot Bridge. There were mud hills. At some point mud sliding was occurred. We saw a sight of hot spring. A sulpher contaminated hot water squirting. This whole area was like a desert. Sand covered the whole site along River Indus. We reached at Raikot Bridge at about 4 pm. Bridge construction is very fine and beautiful. Here was also a check post for vehicles. A hotel was also there called shangrila. A small shop was also in front of us. We bought some bottles of water and biscuits. A dust storm welcomed us there. We hide ourselves to protect the pushes of dusty air. Meanwhile, I saw our guide standing with grills of shangrilla hotel. I called him down. He came down and managed jeep to start our journey on jeep track. We started our journey. I was full of mixture of fear and joy as heard about this track was world 2nd dangerous track. Our jeep gradually rising the hill zigzagging the track. We were in last jeep of three jeeps convoy. Some members of front jeep were so afraid that they get-down the jeep. They were saying that they can?t continue their ride. They said that they will continue their journey on foot. Anyhow we managed to convince them to ride the jeep to start our journey again. After about half hour we reached at a point where track was vanished due to land slide. We had to cover the way on foot. After crossing this tough descending and climbing we again ride the jeep to cover the remaining track. And reached the cottage at Tattu Village. Here we stayed, ate dinner, Daal Chawal (TASTY) take tea. Other groups managed to leave this place and hire a guide to trek to Fairy Meadows. We spent night there. Got-up early in the morning have breakfast. Breakfast was tasty. Here night time a group of Lahorites were also there. From here we were 9 members now. .
Figure 4 Indus River along KKH
Figure 5 Qasim & Ehsan at the bank of Indus
Figure 6 Mr Sami, Indus Bank
We started our trekking altogether. Ahmad Bhai our guide leading us. Trekking track was awesome. Cloud covered the whole track. It was raining also. It was best experience of my life. We gossiping cover the track. It was climbing and at some points a tough climbing. Remember here to bring water bottle with. Because, after a few distance. A sip of water will soothe the throat to make the trekking continuous. A beautiful jungle with water channels, rounded rocks, scattered timber; all these fascinating me and other my fellows.
Figure 7 a chasm on track
Figure 8 our jeep on dangerous track
Figure 9 Sami & Ehsan with jeep on track
Figure 10 Track rehabilitation
Figure 11 jeeps on the track
On the way we filled our bottle with water from a water stream. A 3 to 4 hour trek leads us to Fairy Meadows. We reached and shouted with joy. It was gorgeous.
Figure 12 trekk to Fairy Meadows
Figure 13 a water stream on track
Figure 14 trekking track
Figure 15 trekking in rain
Figure 16 a beautiful water fall
We were mesmerized with lush green field with cottage. It was really like fairies live here and grazing there as well. We captured some snaps. There are no words to express true beauty of Fairy Meadows. Love it. Its landscape was much better than a landscape shown in desktop of MS Windows. Such beauty of nature is shown in Hollywood fancy-land.
Figure 17 Fairy Meadows main land
Figure 18 Fairy Land
Figure 19 Fairy Cottages
Figure 20 entring in Fairy Meadows
Figure 21 Main land of FM
Here we were asked to move forward to our cottages where we had to stay. After about 15 minutes walk on partly plain terrain, we reached fairy meadows cottages facing Killer Mountain. Nanga Parbat was in veil clouds at that time. Our guide ?Ahmad Bhai? who was nephew of the owner of Fairy Meadows Cottage ?Qari Rehmatullah?. Ahmad Bhai directed us to an elegant cottage. Named Nasreen Cottage built by the donation of some children of Nasreen. We were now in cottage. It was really luxury one. An oven was there to heat-up the cottage. We were wet due to continuous rain on the way of hiking and trekking. It was cozy and we changed our dress. Spread the wet shirts and other cloths around the oven to let them dry. We also sit around the oven like having a round table meeting. A welcoming warm drink (Qehwa) was served free of cost. This drink also helped us to keep us warm. Our tiredness removed.
Figure 22 in Nasreen Cottage around Oven
Figure 23 Samin in Cottage
Figure 24 our all members in Cottage
Had a lunch in mess room. After lunch, KILLER started unveiling its face. In white clouds the scenery of white face of mighty mountain was mesmerizing. Gradually its sight becomes clearer than before. We can have sight from within our cottage. Now the KILLER stands naked in front of us. Sun was pouring its sparkling light to whiten it more. We got out of the cottage to see the beauty of nature. Some foreigners were also there. They came in Pakistan to soothe their eyes by having sight of this virgin natural beauty. They were capturing a lot of pictures of Naked Mountain with different angles.
Figure 25 Mess Room
Figure 26 Mess Room
Figure 27 Killer unveiling
Figure 28 Jannat
I was also very emotional. I want to hug that naked mountain. The beauty is matchless. This is beauty is bestowed only to Pakistan and we are lucky to have such beautiful land of the world. We all were jumping, shouting with joy. Everyone was cheerful. I was in try to capture each n every nook of this virgin beautiful land. Some karachites were also there. All were cheering with joy. Everyone was feeling like they attained a huge success to have KILLER in front of them. Everyone was gazing at KILLER. A lot of time elapsed only at gazing her. She was like a queen of beauty and it seems that she is saying all of us. She was challenging all of us. Hey little creature, do you have courage to embrace me??? Look at my virgin beauty, Look at the hugeness, greatness & my gigantic whole. I am not made for the low spirited people. I am not for the weak people. To attain, me you have to have herculean courage. This is not an easy for everyone. Look how elegantly I am standing. Think of me, how beautifully adored I am. My Creator has created me with the best of beauty. Think the greatness of Creator, Who has created me as u can see. But alas, if u really can see what is the creation of Almighty Creator.
Figure 29 Group in front of Killer
Figure 30 Mr Waqar in good mod
Figure 31 Foregner in front of Killer
Figure 32 Camping
Figure 33 Vicky Pedia with friend
Figure 34 Gora pehlwan
After, 2-3 hours, we left our cottage to have sight of main ground of Fairy Meadows. It was like specially prepared with lawn-mover. In reality it is naturally prepared like a golf ground. Our guide was with us and he instructed us not to see at Local homes. Not to capture any snap. We followed his instructions.
Figure 35 Dusk on main land
Figure 36 Forenger aunty with local
Figure 37 Reflection Lake
After a little walk, on the way to Reflection Lake, we met a foreigner lady. She allowed us to make some snaps with her. Then we went to Reflection Lake, we saw Twin Mountains there, one above the forest and other below our feet. Water was reflecting complete mountain and we make some snaps there also. Afterward, we crossed wooden gate and enter a place called by locals call point. That was a point where mobile signal were available and we make calls to our families, shared our experiences, I send some MMSs. At this point, mighty mountain of Raka Poshi and Rama Poshi were visible. Now the darkness prevailed all around the vale and we get back to our cottage.
Other day, Mr. Waqar got up earlier and called to our guide to get ready for our expedition to base camp, weather was bad as it was raining continuously and accordingly our guide discouraged us not to go to base camp. But we were stern and forced him to lead us to go to base camp. He manages some buiscuits and filled water bottles. He also managed raincoats with sticks for trekking to base camp. At about 10.00 am we started our journey to base camp. We saw the raikot glacier from above the hill and made our way into dense jungle. It was lush green jungle littered with broken timber and a water stream was flowing between the jungle. Crystal clear water was flowing, zigzaggin, singng songs which can be heard and understood by only nature lovers. It was fantastic experience, like we were wearing glasses to watch 3D fantasy movie. But were wholesome in the fantasy land. There were some dilapidated cottages giving the pure natural way of local life. There was a local fruit. It was bitter in taste, but our guide pick some of them and ate with joy and asked us that it is a very good remedy for health.
Figure 38 on the track to Base Camp
Figure 39 Track to Base Camp
Figure 40 Nature on the track to Base Camp
Figure 41 Local Jangli fruit
Figure 42 Water Channel near Bayal camp
It was 14th of August 2013. Obviously, we are aware of our independence day. We all group members reached at Bayal Camp where we celebrate our independence day shouting, chanting, raising slogan ?Pakistan Zindabad?. Meanwhile, a foregner appeared there. They also joined us. One of foregner lady shouted slogan ?Jevay Jevay Pakistan?. Celebrating in such a way was really a memorable event. We cannot forget it. Its remembrance fill us with patriotism. There was created pure ?Lahori Rung? dancing like bhangra. All this is worth to be remembered.
Figure 43 Foreinger Enjoying with us
Figure 44 with Foregners
Figure 45 Foregner Leader
Figure 46 Celebration at Bayal
Figure 47 Independence day Celebration
Figure 48 Celebration
Figure 49 Celebration
Figure 50 Celebration
Figure 51 Vicky Pedia in good mod
During celebration event. Rain stopped and we started to move ahead. Crossed water stream, narrow slippery road, wade through rocky track and reached at View Point of Nanaga Parba. Here was huge rock. There we had a closer look of glacier and take rest alongwith ?gup shup?. Our water bottles were emptied and here was steep height. Our guide barred us not to climb the mountain. But we were not in a mode to left above sight un-attended. We make the way up above the hill. Closer to the mountain. It was a bit tough because our guide don?t want us to there at that time and he guided us through w tough way. Anyway, we were not loser and reached the top. This top was the foothill of Nanga parbat. We saw a huge, gigantic mountain veiled with cloud. It seems that she is angry with us and don?t want us to look at her. Mr. Shoukat was reached at top 1st, afterward, Mr. Sami and 3rd was I. It was mesmerizing to be there. We spent ample time there. Captured a lot of snaps. Here our guide also joined us. He was smiling now. It was evening almost, and we have to left the place at the earliest. We started descending. Mr. Qasim and Yasir were fatty. They astonished all of us when they first reached down to main land.
Figure 52 Raikot Glacier
Figure 53 Sami in wood
Figure 54 In front of Raikot Glacier and Killer
Figure 55 Celebration at the height of 4000 meter above sea level
At view point, Mr. Qasim asked our Guide, if he reached down to glacier in 20 Minutes, he?ll give him Rs. 2000/-. Ahmad bhai show me time and started his jorney. He not only reached in 20 minutes but he come back in 25 minutes alongwith an ice patch with him. We appreciated him and give him his prize. He handed over the ice to us and asked to eat it as it was helpful to maintain health. We ate some. Came back to Bayal Camp. Had cup of tea made with fresh milk of sheep. Here health of Mr. Qasim started deteriorating. He suffered from height sickness and aggression he made was tough for him. Here it was Maghrib time and we have to left Bayal Camp at once, Ahmad bhai hold Qasim?s hand and started our journey to our cottage. It took almost 3-4 hours to reach our cottage. As the tack was slippery and narrow. Darkness added fear of losing step. Thanks to our group fellow who brought with them emergency light and we made the way with the help of emergency lights to our cottage. Thank God we reached. But our plight was very bad. A cup of Qehwa was served to all of us. It gave us some of energy. We took pill for pain. Due to cold, situation was very bad and internal environment of room was cozy now and help to warm our bodies. Then we pressed / massaged each other. it was very helpful and now we were fresh. Then we take dinner of boiled rice with Daal. Everyone was tired and laid down. I was the first one who slept earlier than all. Next I don?t know what was going on in cottage. Waqar and Shoukat were busy in transferring data from cam to computer and mobiles.
Next morning, weather was clear and mountain was clear, shining and reflecting sun rays. Staring at white veiled mountain we and some foreigners captured snaps. It was our last day there and now we were preparing to leave the meadows. After breakfast, we left the meadows. Mr. Qasim rode a horse to get back to jeep point. Mr. Waqar and I were running on the track. Some of trekkers were astonished how we are running on this tough track. Jeep track was destroyed by land sliding at 3 points. We have to use alternate jeeps to cover the track. One of our fellows was very afraid of jeep track and saying he has a new life after reaching at Raikot Bridge.
Figure 56 Leaving FM
Figure 57 Last Group Photo
Figure 58 Looking Back to Raikot Glacier
Figure 59 Selfie on the way back to Jeep Track
Figure 60 coming back
Figure 61 Mr Waqar
Figure 62 Jeep Track under construction
It was hot weather at KKH. We hired a taxy to reach Chillas. From Chillas we joined a convoy to reach Islamabad. Our adventurous visit to Fairy Meadows end with the best of memories of my life. Fairy Meadows is a place where one wishes to go again & again. And I hope I?ll visit this place again after visiting remaining Northern area sites.
Figure 63 Last look at KILLER