14 Days in heavens of Gilgit-Baltistan, A mega tour to GB

[Xoofi]

Hi Everyone,

- TRAVELOGUE HAS BEEN COMPLETED -

This August, I completed a 14 day tour to Gilgit Baltistan. In this tour, I was able to visit 7 out of 9 Districts of Gilgit-Baltistan.

Initially my plan was to join this group as I had done Dudipatsar+Fairy Meadows with them in 2011. But their plan couldn't be finalized because of Eid commitments of some members so I joined a different group named "Rakaposhi Trekkerz" on my friend's recommendation. A total of 23 persons were on the group from Karachi (10), Hyderabad (6), Nawabshah (3), Lahore (1), Hafizabad (1), Faisalabad (1) & Muzaffargarh (1).

We had to leave Karachi on 12th August but I was a little confused about the journey because of KKH closure thread. However, @taimur76 bhai confirmed on 11th August that he has reached Astore and KKH was open. It was a sigh of relief for me.

Below is a brief itinerary of my completed tour. Details of day to day travel and activities will be posted along with pictures in coming posts..

12th August - 13th August - Karachi to Lahore on Night Coach Express train
13th August - Lahore to Rawalpindi on Bilal Daewoo
13th August - 14th August - Official trip starts from here, Rawalpindi to Chilas via Coaster (through KKH as Babusar was closed). Night stay in Panorama Hotel, Chilas
15th August - Chilas to Thalechi (Bunji More) on Hiaces and from here onwards stayed in jeeps for next 7 days.
15th August - Thalechi to Astore City to Rama Valley - Camping
16th August - Rama Valley to Rama Lake to Tareshing (A little trek to Rupal valley and back to Tareshing) - Camping
17th August - Tareshing to Chilum to Sheosar Lake to Bara Pani, Deosai - Camping
18th August - Bara Pani to Sadpara Lake to Skardu to Manthokha Waterfalls (Kharmang) to Khaplu (Ghangche) - Hotel
19th August - Khaplu to Machlu village to Hushe Valley (Mashabrum View) to Khaplu - Hotel
20th August - Khaplu to Skardu city + Kharpocho Fort - Hotel
21st August - Skardu city to Kachura Lakes to Gilgit - Hotel (Official trip & Jeep Safari ended here)
22nd August - Gilgit to Nomal to Nasirabad, Hunza on Bike - Stay at friend's home
23rd August - Nasirabad, Hunza to Aliabad to Baltit Fort to Attabad Lake to Gilgit on Bike - Hotel
24th August - 25th August - Gilgit to Rawalpindi on Private car (sharing basis)
25th August - Rawalpindi to Lahore via Subuk Khrram Express train and tour ends..

Here is a group photo of 23 members at Thalechi before stating the Jeep Safari (Me 2nd from left in front row carrying a small bag). The detailed travelogue coming in next posts

[aesiege]

Hmmm less than a day apart at various locations .... will meet some other time In Sha Allah

Waiting for lots of pics for this wonderful adventure !!!

[Xoofi]

The official trip had to start from Rawalpindi. However, A few members of Karachi, Hyderbad & Nawabshah decided to reach Rawalpindi on same train. The journey started on evening of 12th August. The train had to leave at 6 PM but it was late by an hour. The train left Karachi Cantt station at 7 PM.

Me and my friend (since school) and two other members reached early and waiting for train.

After Hyderabad and Nawabshah members joined in, the group dinner was eaten
The person in orange tee (Shabbir Ahmed) is the leader of this group, Rakaposhi Trekkerz and is from Nawabshah.

Members totally out the next day. The heat of Punjab was unbearable in Economy class.

Finally it was sigh of relief to spend an hour in AC restaurant of train for breakfast.

Train is late (as usual) and staying somewhere near Faisalabad).

All the members (except me) landed at Faisalabad railway station. However, I continued my journey to Lahore as I had to pick up some camping gear from my cousin. The rest team hired an Hiace to reach Rawalpindi from Faisalabad. Heavy rain also greeted the group at Faisalabad.

In minutes, it was a flood like situation ahead of Faisalabad and train got more delayed.

Drowning fields ahead of Faisalabad

You see this river full once in a blue moon. Its River Ravi.

A not so good looking sight of Gulshan-e-Ravi naala entering into River Ravi

Finally approaching Lahore Railway Station at 5:30 PM. Train was 5 hours and 30 minutes late. And I only got 1 hour to fresh up and board Bilal Daewoo at 7 PM.

A very brief visit to my uncle's home in Lahore. Left home at 6:15 PM, the Bilal Daewoo bus was at 7 PM. Got stuck in traffic at Samanabad and managed to catch the bus seconds before it was leaving. The member from Lahore was also accompanying on this journey.

The snack box provided by Bilal Daewoo. Twitter biscuits anyone? Reminded me of social media here too

Lahore member, Rizwan, was also accompanying me in the trip

After reaching Bilal Daewoo Terminal at Rawalpindi around 11:15 PM. The sleeping bags (2) were completely drenched by rain water. I don't how it got inside the luggage place. But it was an alarming situation for upcoming camping.

[greatusama]

Great adventure yaara... very impressive... waiting for more pics.

[Xoofi]

Here is our coaster for the Rawalpindi-Chilas route. The journey from Rawalpindi started at around 1:30 AM. After Taxila, I went to sleep (ankh macholi) so that I feel fresh the next morning.

Early morning, we stopped at some roadside dhaaba at Chattar Plain for breakfast. Rain was catching up us here again.

Finally breakfast was served, but I didn't eat much for the fear of travel sickness as coaster travel is not my favorite especially in hilly areas After breakfast, we continued our journey on KKH. It was raining continuously and it was extra green everywhere. There was a little unfortunate incident at Thakot Bridge, our group leader told us not to take pictures of that bridge but still at least three members decided to do against it. They were quickly spotted by KPK police and they stopped us. The police was pretty harsh and decided to check identity card of each and every individual. It wasted about half hour and we were already short on time to catch up the convoy at Besham. Anyhow, after a lot of apologizing, they let us go.

There was a flash flood before Besham and it was a scary one. Every member was calling Allah when crossing this rapid current. We managed to cross it safely.

We were able to catch up the convoy only because it was delayed by 3 hours due to flash flood before Besham.

After Besham, a long and kind of boring journey started in Kohistan region. There was a 20 minute stop at Dassu for lunch. Meanwhile I skipped the lunch and took a photo in Kohistan police van that guards the convoy.

Thats the mighty Indus at Dassu, Kohistan

Members having lunch of whatever was available

All members out once again in Kohistan journey.

Meanwhile, out coaster broke down at Shatial so we enjoyed the cricket match of locals while it was getting fixed.

Some jeep at Shatial

Thats Harban Nala, ahead of Shatial. This place has some not so good history.

Coaster creating problems again at Harban Naala.

Finally the Diamer-Bhasha Dam site.

All the work was stopped here. Last time when I visited GB, the work was in progress but now it was deserted.

[Xoofi]

Night is approaching fast and still there is no sign of Chilas. The coaster was creating problems more often now. Finally we hit Chilas at around 7:30 PM

We booked some rooms in Panorama Hotel, Chilas. My family was constantly calling me that are you safe because there is news of operation in Chilas. However, it was all normal in Chilas. We also went on a late night walk and the shops were open, nothing looked abnormal. We cooked our own dinner. Below is the pic of group dinner.

The next morning, 15th August, everyone was fresh. Luckily the night was OK, not very hot as the usual Chilas summer night. Cooked our breakfast.

Initial plan was that the coaster will drop us till Thalechi but it malfunctioned so the alternate was 2 Hiaces from Chilas to Thalechi. We were already late while leaving Chilas. Also Chilas was showing its true heat today, it was unbearably hot today.

Ahead of Buner Das & Guner Farm, here comes the Buner Naala (Another unfortunate place).

I got sick in Hiace travel because it is not my prefered mode of traveling in mountainous region. Vomited whatever breakfast I took at Raikot bridge. After that was feeling OK. Finally hit Bunji More where the jeeps should have been waiting for us already (from Gilgit). However, there was road blockage between Gilgit-Thalechi section on KKH so they were late.

We utilized this time to take a look at Killer Mountain and also to interact with local kids.

Some Thalechi kids. They were all school going kids, MashaALLAH

Finally our 5 Jeeps arrived. With 5 jeeps, there were 5 drivers and 2 cooks who will stay with us for the next 7 days. This deal was done through Gilgit based tour operator named Indus Exploration & Logistics. It is run by Toqir Ahmed, who is nephew of Rehmat Nabi of Fairy Meadows. Toqir himself joined us for the trip and driving one of the Jeep.

[Xoofi]

Finally the Jeep safari started. Crossed the bridge to leave behind Diamer district and enter Astore district.

Our Jeeps

Tiny Islands on this naala at Doonian, Astore chowki

The entry process of 23+7 individuals on every check post was very tiring one.

Tea stop before Astore city

Finally hit Astore city and the process of entry started again in Astore police station for permission to Rama & Deosai. About one hour was wasted here.

Meanwhile, the entries were being done. I spotted an apricot tree inside police station. However, any available apricot was out of my reach so this nice policeman climbed the tree to get me some

Here are the apricots that policeman plucked for me

Meanwhile lunch in some small restaurant in Astore city.

Once the entries were completed, we started journey towards Rama Valley. It was already very late hour and we had to setup camps also after reaching Rama The scenery was awesome in the way but couldn't capture much because of my point / shoot camera and fading light.

[Xoofi]

Finally hit Rama valley at 7 PM. PTDC Motel in background. Surprisingly here the entry process was done once again.

Spotted some Yaks

Immediately setup the camps as it was already dark. The headlamps came in handy.

Kitchen tent is setup also. One of the cook (Naib) making rotis.

Arif & Chacha Haji (Drivers) are keeping an eye on soup.

As it was already pretty late, we took food and retired to camps. The DSL-R guys remained outside till late night to capture the moon and stars

[Xoofi]

Our campsite on a new day. Its 16th August now. The night was quite awesome and comfortable (for me at least). It was quite cold too and some first time campers found it quite hard. Luckily my sleeping bags dried at Chilas so no issues at all.

Cooks at work again very early morning. We left the camp site early morning to visit Rama Lake. Meanwhile cooks stayed at Rama valley to prepare the breakfast.

Beautiful view of our jeeps in near our camping site.

Towards Rama Lake

Hit the first pond like lake. Spotted some wild flying ducks but they escaped before I could capture them.

We were lucky to catch the reflection in Rama Lake.

I found Rama Lake quite enchanting. Mustansar Tarar sahab didn't recognize this lake in good words in his travelogue, so my hopes were low but when I saw this Lake, I really liked it.

Flora of Rama Valley

Another small Lake while returning to camp site.

The breakfast is ready after excursion to Rama Lake.

Finally unfolding the kitchen tent and other camps to leave for Tareshing.

[gemini85]

Acha aap shabbir bhai ke sath gaye the

[Xoofi]

Going back to Astore from Rama valley. Today (16th August) it was a clear day and the greenery en route was awesome. Stopped at few places for random pictures and continued the journey towards Tareshing.

Diesel refill at Gorikot

One of the many suspension bridges en route.

Beautiful view of Chilum naala entering into Rattu Naala.

A delicious treat of apples. We gave a lift to two people in our jeep to go to next village and they were nice enough to share some apples with us. These apples were very small in size but were very sweet. I ate so much of these.

Cool down baby..

Finally reached Tareshing at around 4 PM. A lot of time was wasted en route for photo sessions. We had to camp in premesis of this hotel as you can't camp here in open. However, for many group members, it was kind of luxury so they abandoned the camping and booked rooms in the hotel. In the end, only 9 out of 23 members ended up camping, rest members booked rooms (Btw, I camped too )

After settling down at Tareshing, some members decided to trek to Rupal valley. It was already late but still we went for it. At first, a group of 6 members left and then with half hour difference a group of 10 members left for Rupal valley. I was in the later group, we also took a guide who was nephew of hotel owner.

[Xoofi]

The trek that leads to Rupal village from Tareshing is quite steep but an easy one. From 10 members who started to trek towards Rupal, one quit right after it was started and returned back to hotel.

For some of the members, it was the first trekking experience and few of them were finding it quite hard.

After reaching this Rupal view point, 3 more members quit when they saw Rupal village far away and the approaching darkness, so only 6 were left who went ahead.

Crossing the glacier

Some ice underneath the rocks.

Once the glacier is crossed, here starts the green part. Lot of potato and wheat fields.

Passing a Potato field

These two guys, Zaheer Abbas (left) and Wahid Ali (right) became friends with us during the trek. They were nice enough to pluck some turnips from a field, wash them for us. They accompanied us till the Rupal Village. At this point, the earlier 6 member group also passed us to return back to Tareshing.

A school in Rupal village

Approaching the small market of Rupal

Zaheer Abbas was a really good guy. He even brought Lassi from his home for all of us. We were amazed by the love and hospitality of each and every person in Rupal village.

A member bought some local sweets made of coconut.

It was already quite late, we were short on time so couldn't proceed further from Rupal village. At about 7 PM, we started our journey back, in 15-20 minutes it was pitch black and on top of that it started raining. Luckily we had our rain coats and head lamps so continued the trek back. When we approached the glaciers, I could hear the sounds like glacier is breaking down, one new member was kinda scared of the dark. Back at the Tareshing, group leader and other members also got a bit concerned so they flashed some light from other end and we returned the torch flash from this side telling that everything is OK. At one point, the guide himself got confused about which path to take but eventually we reached back to Tareshing at about 9 PM. At Tareshing, a huge bonfire was waiting for us. It was a memorable night. All the drivers, cooks, hotel staff participated with us singing Shina songs, local dance and Shisha (Hookah). One of the driver (Tahir aka Disco) danced so much that he fainted two times. My camera couldn't catch good photos in night so here is just a single pic of the bonfire.

Sheesha added fun to the night. It seemed like whole Tareshing village joined us for the night.

After it was over, I retired to my camp at around 2 AM.

[Xoofi]

Thats our campsite in Tareshing the next morning (17th August). Since there was luxury of Hotel rooms, many members woke up late and hence we left from Tareshing quite late. This delay issue was quite an issue in such large group.

Two Tareshing kids playing early morning.

Last views of Tareshing before leaving towards Chilum chowki.

Soon after leaving Tareshing, we hit the beautiful Chilum Naala. It was amazingly beautiful stream with crystal clear bluish water. We had a stop at Khumedas village for some photos.

Members enjoying the beautiful water of Chilum Naala

Water is crystal clear.

A clear day also made the scenery much beautiful.

Met a guy, Muzaffar Ali at Khumedas. He's student in Karachi University. Took his contact to keep in touch in Karachi.

After leaving Khumedas, the rain started to catch us up again. But it was hide and seek of clouds and drizzling.

Another picture stop

We reached Chilum Chowki at around 2 PM. Had some lunch, meanwhile the group leaders tried to take permission for Miminarg but it was a mistake not to arrange the permission in advance. So after an hour of fruitless persuasion to Army personnel, we dropped the plan to visit Minimarg and started the journey towards Deosai (Bara Pani).

[Xoofi]

Minutes after Chilum Chowki, there is a small checkpost which marks the start of Deosai National Park.

Entry + Ticket for Deosai National Park

My jeep's tyre malfunctioned so it wasted about half and hour more.

Meanwhile enjoyed the cricket match of locals.

There were many Marmot sightings in Deosai National Park but my camera could capture this only picture worth sharing

It was getting dark fast and the rain catch us again when we reached Sheosar Lake. We had very little time to explore Sheosar Lake. So far the lakes I have seen, I would give it a number 2 after Dudipatsar.

After a brief visit to Sheosar Lake, we continued the journey towards Bara Pani. Meanwhile the ankh macholi of rain and sunlight continued.

Deosai plateau is amazingly beautiful. Loved the greenery.

Flora of Deosai

Finally reached Bara Pani at 6:30 PM. Time was very short so we immediately setup our camps. One of the camps malfunctioned so we had to rent out a tent by local people. It was a long long journey today and was already dark too, most members retired to camps as soon as dinner was served. It constantly rained in the night and we were praying for a clear day next morning. In below pic, our two cooks, Shukrullah and Naib. Left one (Shukrullah) is the survivor of Nanga Parbat base camp massacre.

[lazyboy]

very well narrated journey with nice images. waiting for more images...

[Xoofi]

Its a new day (18th August) and thats our campsite in the morning. Luckily there weather was very good. The sun was out with very few clouds.

Cotton clouds

The old suspension bridge of Bara Pani and the new concrete bridge.

Excellent view

Surprisingly the water has a very dark blue shade to it.

Crystal clear water of Bara Pani.

Deosai flowers and the sky

Frost on one of our camps

Breakfast was served soon.

All of a sudden, the clouds came in power and it started drizzling on us. We had almost packed up our campsite to continue the journey towards Skardu. I wish I could have stayed one more day at Bara Pani. Really liked it.

Left Deosai at around 9:30 AM. The rain welcomed us today too after a brief clear weather

[Xoofi]

Soon after leaving Bara Pani, the rain also stopped but it was still very cloudy. The greenery was very soothing. There were many stops for photography purpose.

As soon as the Skardu district started, the landscape changed completely. Here the landscape was mostly barren and now the sun was pretty harsh on us and was showing its true heat.

First glimpse of Sadpara Lake from a distance.

Deosai flowers in our jeep

Sadpala Lake was just ok. Nothing very breathtaking.

After a brief stay at Sadpara Lake, we reached Skardu at Concordia Hotel. Here the group people bought some groceries. Also two members left the group because camping came pretty unbearable for them. We did a farewell to them and after staying here for about an hour, we continued the journey towards Manthokha falls.

[Xoofi]

We were already late while leaving Skardu. It was 4 PM already. The journey was quite pleasant along with River Indus. The banks were giving a view of Desert.

Some monument along side the road.

Gol village en route to Manthokha. Ahead of Gol village, it comes Mehdi Abad. Here the police team stopped us and warned us not to camp at Manthokha as it is not safe place as there was some of religious procession the next day. The SHO took the NIC of our group leader and only allowed to go further if we promised to return the same day. He also signed us on a paper that if something bad happens, police won't be responsible. I was pretty amazed as I never thought of this place as a dangerous one. Anyway we continued the journey towards Manthokha Falls.

We reached Manthokha Falls at about 6 PM. It falls in Kharmang District of Gilgit-Baltistan. It was indeed a very good place and I really liked it. It was told to me that it is not a natural waterfall and it was outflow water from power house. Artificial or Natural, it created an awesome atmosphere.

A well built restaurant was a bit surprising for me as I was thinking that this place might be remote.

This Abshar resort is owned by a religious scholar as I was told and it was evident from so many pictures like below in the restaurant premises.

Here is the look of restaurant from inside. It seemed like a luxury to me.

I don't know what but there was something airy in the environment of this place. A weird fear or may be it was the police who exaggerated everything. Initial plan was to camp at Manthokha but after being told by the police and watching graffiti like the one in below picture, many members were reluctant and the mutual decision was not to camp here and move to Khaplu which was our next day's destination. The restaurant manager tried to persuade us to stay for camping and told that it was just personal enmity of police and the hotel owner that he spoke ill about the place and its security. But in the end, we decided to move towards Khaplu. It was already 7 PM+ when we started the journey towards Khaplu in Ghangche district.

[asifraza81]

aray pics kam hogayeen talha ki pic bhi short hai .. aur world famous Rama chicken ka bhi zikar nahin hai

[Xoofi]

aray pics kam hogayeen talha ki pic bhi short hai .. aur world famous Rama chicken ka bhi zikar nahin hai

Asif bhai, haha our group fun will be a bit irrelevant for forum members, thats why I skipped all that. We are already enjoying about it on Facebook