40 days, 7000+ kms - extreme hiking. Camping, biking & soul refreshing sightseeing

[hammad.mustafa]

Finally reached Lahore one day later than planned. Bahawalpur stay was excellent, received at bypass by @jigzkorner Sannan at 2300hrs on 31st May who guided our way to Cantt area, see-offed me n begum there and took Aamir n Shahbaz with him to his home.

I must say the Pakwheel and other biking communities are helping us out every where with great hospitality.

Next day had rest till eve as day was bit Hot, went to Noor Mahal in eve then to Garrison Park then to Desert Inn for dinner. @jigzkorner Sannan stayed with us the whole evening till late night. Came back to guest rooms at Cantt and slept with aplan to leave after Fajar Prayers for Lalsuhana National Park and then to Vehari.

It was about 0325am when I woke with severe pain in stomach. I took it lightly and stay laid hoping it will go away. 15min passed, no relief, I looked for my medical box and took the respective medicine and waited for relief. Again 1hour passed with no change in situation. So I left my room at 5am and rushed to CMH Bahawalpur Nearby. Got detained, doctor diagnosed me with food poisoning and administered the treatment and advised me to get admitted. Now that was the nightmare coz if I had got admitted, a signal had been generated to my Unit in Karachi and my leave would have been expired right that moment, the concequences were severe for my planned trip so I humbly requested the doctor to dont admit me but keep in detention instead, till I get bit better. I told him about my trip too. So he kept me in detention till 10am, by then I felt bit better, pain was gone but weakness was immense. I came back in room and slept for 3hrs after taking couple of banana and apple.

By 1400 hrs I was quite better therefore hit the road again for Vehari direct skipping Lalsuhana National Park. Program was to have lunch at Vehari and off for Lahore but yesterday's stomach ache and weakness didn't allow, resultantly stayed for night in Vehari too.

Next morning the weather was excellent, for Lahore section. Started at 0930am from Vehari, stayed for couple of hpurs at Harrapa on the way. Got bit problem with my bike i.e. missing above 80km/hrs. On Sahiwal Bypass saw mega suzuki service centre and decided to get the bike checked. I must say that waz the most pathetic experience of my journey so far. Poor customer service and inhuman behavior shown by the Manager of Sahiwal Bypass Suzuki Service Centre. Going to complain for his unprofessional Treatment soon.

At Okara Bypass encounteted extreme sand storm which reduced the visibility on road to Zero so we parked at nearby Gas Station and waited for storm to pass, as it was proving difficult for us to even handle our bikes straight. About 45min later roads got cleared and we got back on em. Temp reduced quite unexpectedly even I felt the need for sweater on bike. Astonishing for me as never faced such weather in Punjab in June, lollz. Recahed Lahore at about 2000Hrs. Tayyab was there to recieve us.

[rizwan_mir]

Welcome to Lahore!

Sorry to hear your food poisoning thing. I think you should try to avoid spicy food and good thing is, you will find less spicy food in northern area because they don't use much spice in their foods.

Jerking after 80 seems because of current problem or plug issue. is it solved or not?

We plan with our minds and Allah plans what is good for us or what we could remember after our journey either its a hurdle or pleasure of nature. This is called true adventure.

Finally reached Lahore one day later than planned. Bahawalpur stay was excellent, received at bypass by Sannan at 2300hrs on 31st May who guided our way to Cantt area, see-offed me n begum there and took Aamir n Shahbaz with him to his home.

I must say the Pakwheel and other biking communities are helping us out every where with great hospitality.

Next day had rest till eve as day was bit Hot, went to Noor Mahal in eve then to Garrison Park then to Desert Inn for dinner. Sannan stayed with us the whole evening till late night. Came back to guest rooms at Cantt and slept with aplan to leave after Fajar Prayers for Lalsuhana National Park and then to Vehari.

It was about 0325am when I woke with severe pain in stomach. I took it lightly and stay laid hoping it will go away. 15min passed, no relief, I looked for my medical box and took the respective medicine and waited for relief. Again 1hour passed with no change in situation. So I left my room at 5am and rushed to CMH Bahawalpur Nearby. Got detained, doctor diagnosed me with food poisoning and administered the treatment and advised me to get admitted. Now that was the nightmare coz if I had got admitted, a signal had been generated to my Unit in Karachi and my leave would have been expired right that moment, the concequences were severe for my planned trip so I humbly requested the doctor to dont admit me but keep in detention instead, till I get bit better. I told him about my trip too. So he kept me in detention till 10am, by then I felt bit better, pain was gone but weakness was immense. I came back in room and slept for 3hrs after taking couple of banana and apple.

By 1400 hrs I was quite better therefore hit the road again for Vehari direct skipping Lalsuhana National Park. Program was to have lunch at Vehari and off for Lahore but yesterday's stomach ache and weakness didn't allow, resultantly stayed for night in Vehari too.

Next morning the weather was excellent, for Lahore section. Started at 0930am from Vehari, stayed for couple of hpurs at Harrapa on the way. Got bit problem with my bike i.e. missing above 80km/hrs. On Sahiwal Bypass saw mega suzuki service centre and decided to get the bike checked. I must say that waz the most pathetic experience of my journey so far. Pathetic people, pathetic customer service and inhuman behavior shown by the Manager of Sahiwal Bypass Suzuki Service Centre. Going to complain for his unprofessional Treatment soon.

At Okara Bypass encounteted extreme sand storm which reduced the visibility on road to Zero so we parked at nearby Gas Station and waited for storm to pass, as it was proving difficult for us to even handle our bikes straight. About 45min later roads got cleared and we got back on em. Temp reduced quite unexpectedly even I felt the need for sweater on bike. Astonishing for me as never faced such weather in Punjab in June, lollz. Recahed Lahore at about 2000Hrs. Tayyab was there to recieve us.

[hammad.mustafa]

Alhumdu'lillah, completed Neelum Valley leg. The most beautiful place in Kashmir, The Arrang Kel, heaven on earth undoubtedly.

[naseer_jaan]

grate trip.......

[aks_e_ahmed]

Wah wonderful

[hammad.mustafa]

It was our third day in KPK regarding our all Pakistan Bike tour. We were planning to stay and explore here for 5 to 6 days but became, eager to leave this area as soon as possible. Hence, reached back to Muzafarabad leaving rest of the places alone without visiting. Moreover, all the lakes are frozen except saif ul malook and LuLusar. Babusar top is yet closed with no expectations to get opened anytime soon.

Here are the reasons:

144 on camping from Balakot to Babusar including Saiful Malook .

Generally bikes are exempted from tolls, but we paid ₨ 50/ bike for entering into Naran. Rate was 100-200 for cars and up. First of a kind tax in Pakistan as far as I know.

No one is allowed to go for saif ul malook or Lalazar after 5pm.

No one is allowed to stay at Saiful Malook for night.

Government representatives are everywhere to ruin your tour with different instructions and restrictions as if you are visiting some military cantt area.

People are very ill mannered just like their ill mannered Leader

Grocery, bakery or eatables *are 300 cent more expensive than normal rates. (To give you an Idea, we spent ₨ 30000 from Karachi to Arrang Kel and back Muzaffarabad on the other hand This only leg costed us about ₨.19000)

No one is allowed to pass Batakundi or Jalkhad max after 5pm, means if you are near any of these points you have to either go back to Naran or stay in any Hotel at Batakundi or Jalkhad at their desired room fares.

There is not a single board at entrance of Naran to notify about these restrictions, neither you will find them on Internet. That's the hypocritical system of governance in KPK. That's how tourism is being promoted here.

At least I will never even think about visiting KPK tourism points in my life again.

The PTDC has vast area for camping but they don't allow to camp too.

Very bad and sick experience. This is the CHANGE

However, notwithstanding above, the only good thing in this leg was the best offroad biking experience, between Shogran and Siri-Pae, (Although not a family place to visit, because no water to drink or for other use, you have to buy water for all purposes at quite high rates)

Amir Lodhi and Maya Bhai both decided to leave for Karachi from here, since Naran-Kaghan leg has disturbed the budget quite badly. Gonna miss u guys.

[wak786]

Mr. Hammad Mustafa! Please keep your postings strictly for your travel diary and avoid making political statements against political parties and leaders.

Moderator! I would suggest that you delete Mr. Hammad Mustafa previous posting as it is against Pakwheels policies and issue him a warning.

Thanks

[hammad.mustafa]

Mr. Hammad Mustafa! Please keep your postings strictly for your travel diary and avoid making political statements against political parties and leaders.

Moderator! I would suggest that you delete Mr. Hammad Mustafa previous posting as it is against Pakwheels policies and issue him a warning.

Thanks

Noted and Edited accordingly. That was all my experience Though, nothing political, neither I have to do anything with politics. Please go through my first post, will get the reason, me being non-political. Moreover, I do have the right for pointing out the good as well as the bad experiences I am facing throughout my travel, in my own thread, either due to people or governance in areas Im going through. Some will agree with me some will not.

[saadtn1]

Good Going bhai!
I am sure you will be relieved once you will enter Baltistan. The people over there are much better and kind. All the best of your tour (y)

[rizwan_mir]

Sad to hear your bad experience in Kaghan valley. Naran has known as very expensive place to visit but now a days most expensive place because of holidays.

144 on camping??? Why so much security issue? Has any incident happened there or what?

Vehicle entry fee??? This is ridiculous like these people de-Promoting their areas. Never heard and experienced this issue.

Not allowing night stay at Saif-ul-Malook???.. Recently one of my FB friend with his friends have visited Anso Lake I am sure they stay night at Saif-ul-Malook one or two weeks ago.

Anyway, don’t give up and move to Gilgit Baltistan and enjoy high mountains and colorful Hunza, highest plains, highest Skardu desert etc.
You have lot more corners to explore….. Stay calm, happy, safe and enjoy your adventure.

It was our third day in KPK regarding our all Pakistan Bike tour. We were planning to stay and explore here for 5 to 6 days but became, eager to leave this area as soon as possible. Hence, reached back to Muzafarabad leaving rest of the places alone without visiting. Moreover, all the lakes are frozen except saif ul malook and LuLusar. Babusar top is yet closed with no expectations to get opened anytime soon.

Here are the reasons:

144 on camping from Balakot to Babusar including Saiful Malook .

Generally bikes are exempted from tolls, but we paid ₨ 50/ bike for entering into Naran. Rate was 100-200 for cars and up. First of a kind tax in Pakistan as far as I know.

No one is allowed to go for saif ul malook or Lalazar after 5pm.

No one is allowed to stay at Saiful Malook for night.

Government representatives are everywhere to ruin your tour with different instructions and restrictions as if you are visiting some military cantt area.

People are very ill mannered just like their ill mannered Leader

Grocery, bakery or eatables *are 300 cent more expensive than normal rates. (To give you an Idea, we spent ₨ 30000 from Karachi to Arrang Kel and back Muzaffarabad on the other hand This only leg costed us about ₨.19000)

No one is allowed to pass Batakundi or Jalkhad max after 5pm, means if you are near any of these points you have to either go back to Naran or stay in any Hotel at Batakundi or Jalkhad at their desired room fares.

There is not a single board at entrance of Naran to notify about these restrictions, neither you will find them on Internet. That's the hypocritical system of governance in KPK. That's how tourism is being promoted here.

At least I will never even think about visiting KPK tourism points in my life again.

The PTDC has vast area for camping but they don't allow to camp too.

Very bad and sick experience. This is the CHANGE

However, notwithstanding above, the only good thing in this leg was the best offroad biking experience, between Shogran and Siri-Pae, (Although not a family place to visit, because no water to drink or for other use, you have to buy water for all purposes at quite high rates)

Amir Lodhi and Maya Bhai both decided to leave for Karachi from here, since Naran-Kaghan leg has disturbed the budget quite badly. Gonna miss u guys.

[hammad.mustafa]

Its my 2nd rest day at Muzaffarabad. Got bit eased from bad experiences of Naran leg. Getting my energies regained for further legs. As two of my fellows Amir Lodhi and Shehbaz have returned for Karachi, im left alone to complete the rest of tour.

My wife is also unable to join me as my 5 years old son has got quite disturbed due to our frequent and long absence, which he is not used to. A step ahead, he protested through quite disturbing strategy to make us stop, lolllz, by refusing to eat anything for 3 days straight, during our Neelum and Naran Legs. Therefore my wife decided to leave rest of the legs. Another reason for him being touchy is that My wife had quite bad accident from bike with kids couple of months back, when her Abaya stucked in rear wheel and she fell on road at Shahrae Faisal. That incident left quite bad psychological effect in my son's memory, resultantly he doesn't Allow his mother to ride anymore.

Now, me being solo am quite concerned about security issues of Kohistan, which I was going to skip if Babusar top had opened. Second and more disturbing issue is that I have very very bad habit of loosing things. To give readers a glimpse, uptil now I have lost all of three sports water bottles pictured in post above (1st at Khairpur, 2nd at Sharda, 3rd at Naran) , two mobile phones, one nokia (left at Ghotki Petrol Station), one HTC (dropped from zipper bike mount, as forgot to close the zip), one of pro bikers gloves, another pair of Gloves, right side tapa of bike and the most silly thing, I left shopping bag (rain preventive measure, lollz) which contained all of money, cnic, service cards, medical cards and bike docs at Naran hotel room, thanx Allah before leaving for Saiful Malook I realized it and rushed my cousin to hotel where he found it under my pillow. Now if I lost that much being in company of three including my wife, God knows what I would do when alone, ha ha ha.

[hammad.mustafa]

For tomorrow im going to do a short leg of about 100kms, from Muzaffarabad to Chakar, Zalzal Lake, Sudhan Gali Meadows and thrn to my native village Bugna for night stay. Lets see how are these areas of Kashmir, yup never been there before.

[rizwan_mir]

Sorry for your loos but you must remain attentive & sharp minded while your tour. Bhai, Agar isi terha cheezain bhultay rahay to kaheen bike khari ker k hi na bhool jana LOL…

As you said you left alone for your tour. I would like to suggest something (but decision is yours). If you are considering your adventure as a challenge then you should be very strong and be ready for obstacles known or unknown. And if you are considering your tour as to explore beauty of our country, to feel it and enjoy the moments deep into the nature then I would not recommend you solo ride. You must have company with you. Wo muhawra to suna hi ho ga “1+1=11, aik or aik gyara hotay hain”. Sath bhi rahay ga, enjoy bhi ho ga, problem easily solve bhi hon gi or qudrat k nazaray daikh ker apas ma views bhi share hoon ***.

Most important reason is why I would not recommend you ride ahead. You should assess the problems in your tour completed so far like you have lost your mobiles, gloves, bike side cover, bottles. You faced security restrictions in Kaghan valley. Your tour mates left. Your wife can’t go with you ahead. You have security issue in your mind at kohistan to go to gilgit. Babusar is closed. If I asses these events happening one after another whether minor or serious, I would consider it as a message from Allah who is stopping you to travel ahead. I don’t know but may be going ahead is not in your favor at this time. Allah knows better!

Please don’t think I am discouraging you but this is what I think you should consider before starting ahead.

Stay safe & Ride safe

Its my 2nd rest day at Muzaffarabad. Got bit eased from bad experiences of Naran leg. Getting my energies regained for further legs. As two of my fellows Amir Lodhi and Shehbaz have returned for Karachi, im left alone to complete the rest of tour.

My wife is also unable to join me as my 5 years old son has got quite disturbed due to our frequent and long absence, which he is not used to. A step ahead, he protested through quite disturbing strategy to make us stop, lolllz, by refusing to eat anything for 3 days straight, during our Neelum and Naran Legs. Therefore my wife decided to leave rest of the legs. Another reason for him being touchy is that My wife had quite bad accident from bike with kids couple of months back, when her Abaya stucked in rear wheel and she fell on road at Shahrae Faisal. That incident left quite bad psychological effect in my son's memory, resultantly he doesn't Allow his mother to ride anymore.

Now, me being solo am quite concerned about security issues of Kohistan, which I was going to skip if Babusar top had opened. Second and more disturbing issue is that I have very very bad habit of loosing things. To give readers a glimpse, uptil now I have lost all of three sports water bottles pictured in post above (1st at Khairpur, 2nd at Sharda, 3rd at Naran) , two mobile phones, one nokia (left at Ghotki Petrol Station), one HTC (dropped from zipper bike mount, as forgot to close the zip), one of pro bikers gloves, another pair of Gloves, right side tapa of bike and the most silly thing, I left shopping bag (rain preventive measure, lollz) which contained all of money, cnic, service cards, medical cards and bike docs at Naran hotel room, thanx Allah before leaving for Saiful Malook I realized it and rushed my cousin to hotel where he found it under my pillow. Now if I lost that much being in company of three including my wife, God knows what I would do when alone, ha ha ha.

[hammad.mustafa]

Absolutely right @rizwanmir bhai. Im also thinking on same lines. Thats y didnt moved ahead for further legs. I was waiting if I could arrange for someone to join me. Lets see what comes ahead.

[hammad.mustafa]

Last three days I spent with my son Ammar. Took him to a park at river Jehlum bank on Chakothi Road, little outside Muzaffarabad.

[HanifBhatti]

This is an excellent thread! (Y)

@hammad.mustafa
It will be nice if you share one picture per post, will be easy for us to quote/reply, also easy for those who have slow net connection.
Thanks.

Try using "Uploading Images ? Try our easy image replies" on top of quick reply box.

[hammad.mustafa]

This is an excellent thread! (Y)

@hammad.mustafa
It will be nice if you share one picture per post, will be easy for us to quote/reply, also easy for those who have slow net connection.
Thanks.

Try using "Uploading Images ? Try our easy image replies" on top of quick reply box.

Got it dear. Good suggestion. Will edit the previous posts accordingly.

[hammad.mustafa]

Then on 17 June 15, me, my wife and Ammar explored a different and long route to our village, Bugna.

Left from Muzaffarabad at 11am on Chakothi Road towards Garhi Duppatta. Excellent carpeted road with lots of development along, regarding Neelum-jehlum Hydro Power Project. On this road at Majhoi there is other end of tunnels that start from right across my village.

Then from Hattian took right on Chakkar road, pretty bad road but repairs in progress. Stopped for 15 minutes on a small road side shop for refreshments. The shopkeeper was very hospitable person. Offered us cup of tea which we passed humbly. Crossed Chakar and moved on to Sudhan Gali road.

[hammad.mustafa]

This road is also under repair work with lots of mud and dirt tracks on the way. But thick Pine forests on this road upto Sudhan Gali kept us fresh.

Stopped for sometime at view of remains of ZALAZAL lake on Chakar-Sudhan gali road. This lake was formed naturally during 2005 Earthquakes. In 2010 a landslide diminished its area, otherwise before then it was big enough for 11 boats which were operating in it for tourists. Now there are neither tourists nor boats.

Sudhan Gali is known for highest peak in the area, The Ganga Choti and Meadows surrounding it. The view of Bagh District from here is exceptional.

[hammad.mustafa]

We tried to get on top of Ganga Choti through under construction road, but due to stoned soled road didn't took the risk, as there is high probability of tyre punctures on such roads.

There is beautiful Motel here named Benazir Palace, rooms are exceptionally well decorated with american style attached washrooms. It was empty though due to off season and approaching Ramazan, had cups of tea there, rested and enjoyed beautiful scenery from its lawn.