Another solo trip - a tribute to KKH

[Wanderlust]

After namaz, my hand was on steering wheel and the other one was turning on the AC....sun was too intense. I drove back to KKH again heading towards rakaposhi view point for lunch.

[Wanderlust]

Hhaee....in 1996 there was just a tea shop at rakaposhi view point and now there was no place to sit and even to park the car.....every where there were locals enjoying tea and lunch. Ok....let's go to Gilgit after grabbing a pack of nimko.

[Wanderlust]

Phir kya bana basanti ka?

Waiting for next episode...

In Lahore....mechanic asked me if I have replaced shocks of the car from another mechanic? Why?.....because its camber adjustment is totally out.

[Wanderlust]

A night stay at Gilgit was on my itinerary this time.....I wanted to refresh my memories from the years 1996, 1997 and 2000. We gang of friends used to stay in the sleepy town of Gilgit to celebrate the end of trip with delicious khabbay and to shop for the family (parents and siblings).....just to make them feel that we did not forget them when we were having good time in the mountains.

So first was the year1996 when we had returned from Khunjerab pass. Wanderlust was wandering around Jutial late in the afternoon.....an out of town place that used to be the last stop of public transport. There was Serena hotel and a FNCA so called zoo where we had unforgettable experience......a calm and peaceful place.....a mountain on the back completely in the dark and another mountain on the far end whose snow covered peak was glittering in the sun light. In between there were three humans.....a couple of monkeys and birds and only the sound created by the cup of delicious tea and our lips.

I wanted to repeat the same experience and turned the car left.....utter disappointment....where I had seen only a beautiful girl with her dad.....now there were people around........

[ezisohail]

Do you have any idea of travel time between Phunder to Shandoor; Shandoor to Booni & Booni to Chitral

[Wanderlust]

Do you have any idea of travel time between Phunder to Shandoor; Shandoor to Booni & Booni to Chitral

Phandar to start of Shandur is just about half an hour. I did not go very far inside Shandur

[adeel-butt]

Well narrated story...

[ezisohail]

Phandar to start of Shandur is just about half an hour. I did not go very far inside Shandur

Do you think if i stay Gupis & then next day go to phandar through touching Yaseen valley. How much time from Gupis to Yaseen valley & then to phunder. As during my last visit i missed yaseen valley

[Abdullahnoor007]

@wanderlust... Why on hold boss???

[Wanderlust]

@wanderlust... Why on hold boss???

Ramazan bhai......

[Wanderlust]

A night stay at Gilgit was on my itinerary this time.....I wanted to refresh my memories from the years 1996, 1997 and 2000. We gang of friends used to stay in the sleepy town of Gilgit to celebrate the end of trip with delicious khabbay and to shop for the family (parents and siblings).....just to make them feel that we did not forget them when we were having good time in the mountains.

So first was the year1996 when we had returned from Khunjerab pass. Wanderlust was wandering around Jutial late in the afternoon.....an out of town place that used to be the last stop of public transport. There was Serena hotel and a FNCA so called zoo where we had unforgettable experience......a calm and peaceful place.....a mountain on the back completely in the dark and another mountain on the far end whose snow covered peak was glittering in the sun light. In between there were three humans.....a couple of monkeys and birds and only the sound created by the cup of delicious tea and our lips.

I wanted to repeat the same experience and turned the car left.....utter disappointment....where I had seen only a beautiful girl with her dad.....now there were people around........

I turned to city center with the intention to shop at NLI market and at night enjoy chappal kabab that I had not tasted yet on the trip.....

To my disappointment there were ncp cars and cars and cars and public transport vans on every bit of roads.....I must say proportion of cars in Gilgit city is more than Lahore and Karachi when compared to available road network. There was peace on the roads in 2000 and now there was utter chaos. Somehow I managed to touch NLI market. It was no more the bargain market.....just flooded with shocking pink blankets, jaali cosmetics etc.

Narrow roads and tons of cars....I wanted to be far from this madding crowd. Instantly I though to start the journey back to Lahore....but when I noticed the time, I dumped the idea as it was hard to reach Chilas before dusk. So I started looking for a nice hotel close to Giligit city exit where in the early morning next day I can say good bye to the city that once used to be a place to relax.

So in this hotel, I took refuge......generous car parking, huge lawn and rooms were neat and clean.

[Wanderlust]

I could not find that soothing place in Jutial that was a wonderful experience in 1996.

I could not repeat experience of 1997 walking around quiet streets of Giligit.

After mugrib namaz, I hit the road on foot to see if I can still taste the same special chappal kabab prepared in cheese and eggs. Walked around here and there and could only find chicken nehari.

Was back to hotel thinking of what is that hijab now on the inside face of the hotel. After namaz, I was gone to sleep.

Around 11....my ears started listening to the song "kul bhee Bhutto zinda tha....aaj bhee Bhutto zinda hae". Oops, the hotel was owned by a senior politician and was also being used for election campaign. In the lawn there were many people enjoying documentary on the projector.

[Wanderlust]

Do you think if i stay Gupis & then next day go to phandar through touching Yaseen valley. How much time from Gupis to Yaseen valley & then to phunder. As during my last visit i missed yaseen valley

Bhai, yasin valley is north of gupis and phandar is west. You need a day each for both the locations.

[Wanderlust]

"Ub kooch kuro.....ic Gilgit say dil ko lugana kaya".

No offence to my brothers from Gilgit, but my mind had decided to not return to Giligit again....it is like Lahore. I have not visited Murree since 2010.

My two days journey back home started in the morning at 7:30. Perhaps people here have also started sleeping late in the morning.

[Wanderlust]

I had targeted Besham for night stop over for final push to Lahore next day

[awais-idrees]

With the news that remaining stretch of road leading to Babusar pass and tunnel/bridge on Attabad lake may be completed by this September, I decided to enjoy the sweet and sour Karakorum highway by driving from Lahore to its extreme end at Khunjerab Pass at 4,500m. I had traveled first time on KKH with my friend via NATCO in 1996, and this month after 20 years I set off on a long journey on my trusted Corolla considering that may be nobody will drive in the harsh Kohistan area after Babusar pass will become a highway. Once Attabad lake is bypassed by a tunnel, no one will dare a bit of adventure transporting his car on boat.

For the first time, I have also explored Ghizer district's Phunder and Yasin valleys. Got a bit inside Shandur area and returned back after about 15km as rightly advised by friends at Pakwheels that there is no acceptable track for a car. I also drove close to Wakhan corridor.

Ghizer district is the place where hundreds of soldiers are sleeping under flags of Pakistan.....the men who lost their lives protecting us, our kids and their future. Standing on top of the list is Lalik Jan "Nishan e Hyder".

For the benefit of Pakwheels gypsy community, I will share unbiased day by day report of my 2,980km trip..... just in case somebody may wish to try my experience. I will also focus on latest KKH road condition and security concerns in Kohistan while comparing with my KKH trips of 2012 and 2014. Public transport is still strictly crossing Kohistan area in day light, and a couple of months ago private vehicles were not allowed to cross Jaglot after 11 in the morning....this happened to my friend. This restriction has now been lifted.

As always, none of my photos will be edited!

Stay tuned!

Awesome trip and travelogue
Dude Wanderlust I need your help.
Please advise

I am planning to visit Gilgit and SOST dry port with two of my friends next friday i.e: 3rd of July 2015 on my Toyota Vitz 1999 Petrol.

I have few questions which I would like you to answer to help me out during my trip.

1. Is it worth to take my own car their till Gilgit and than hire jeep for further?
2. Is it OK to travel in Ramadan as we all will be fasting?
3. We are deciding to leave lahore at 2:00 PM and reach Naran by 12:00 AM, is it a right decision?
4. How is the road conditions all the way?
5. What are the attractions to visit during the way and over gilgit etc
6. Should we carry petrol along as in my last trip to Naran we were unable to find any pump after abbotabad
7. We will have 5 days in total including travelling
8. How much time it will take to reach gilgit if we go in one go? We will start the journey from Lahore

It will be great if you could make a considerable plan for us as this will be my first trip to Gilgit.

Waiting to hear from you soon.
Thanks in advance

[Wanderlust]

A wonderful view of Nanga Parbat (8,126m) near Jaglot.

[Wanderlust]

Approaching Raikot bridge after which flavor of KKH will change from sweet to sour

[Wanderlust]

Sun was on the top....dry, hot and dusty outside but chilling AC was not giving cool feeling in the car as eyes were only feeding barren landscape.

[Wanderlust]

Only me, my car and trucks!