Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[Driver41]

I dont see a listing for a suzuki SA310 there.

Thanks for response. I was really waiting for ur input. Yea thats the issue, I have manual of SA310 (which comes with new car), it also does not mention the thickness. Can u please recommend thickness? And suggestion/recommendation on issue of squeal sound on applying brakes, i have noticed that sound squeal comes from rotor which has little rust like on edge, I am posting its pic also.

BTW the link of .pdf i mentioned have thickness for suzuki swift/jimny, see given below pic:

Pictures of rotors:

Rotor with rust: (Left)

Rotor without rust: (Right)

[greyhound]

Seriously dude??? ask a DAANMM mechanic he'll tell you for FREE!!

Chill out bro...y r u heating up. I asked this question for a reason as i hav already done wat u r saying me to do and got varying replies from those jugati masters...i wont be asking something here without first exploring other venues

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar @SER_GTR can we test the compressor once the pipes are disconnected. Mechanics here do that they put oil and try to block the outlet. If it produces pressure they say it is fit.

In my current scenario gauges are not good for diagnosis as pressure after condenser is low (not checked but pipe is little warm and before condenser it is super hot)

I bought Chinese Condenser (RS 3500) and DENSO Genuine TXV (RS 2300). So called Denso ND oil is 300 for 40cc expensive. Any other good brands of oil and R134?

you are seeing a good functioning system, the compressor discharge pipe is always blazing hot, the refrigerant is heated up as its squashed together, the condenser cools down this refrigerant. So if you experience a large difference of temperature on inlet and outlet of condenser then the condenser is working.

If the system cannot pull down the vapour line pressure effectively, and you feel the compressor is lugging badly and have a low reading on the high side port then you have a blocked condenser scenario - in that case you will also experience the high pressure safety switch on the compressor kill it (switch it off) and vent the refrigerant at the same time.

For oil, buy the ND bottle and flush out the compressor too by pumping all the old oil out of it. Fill at different spots to prevent oil slugging.

I have also seen the "finger pressure test" on compressors - which is BS, I dont think any human has fingers to test 200 psi pressure or even the hand dexterity to spin the compressor to 1700 rpm.

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar
Bhai your word about the suspectedly bad wheel bearing??

to confirm a bad bearing - use a stethescope - to change it mount it in a hydraulic press and replace the bearing.

[Xulfiqar]

Thanks for response. I was really waiting for ur input. Yea thats the issue, I have manual of SA310 (which comes with new car), it also does not mention the thickness. Can u please recommend thickness? And suggestion/recommendation on issue of squeal sound on applying brakes, i have noticed that sound squeal comes from rotor which has little rust like on edge, I am posting its pic also.

BTW the link of .pdf i mentioned have thickness for suzuki swift/jimny, see given below pic:

Pictures of rotors:

Rotor with rust: (Left)

Rotor without rust: (Right)

that list has a suzuki with vented discs which is not your car, you have solid discs.

your rotors are worn out, - I dont think you noticed the rusted and pitted area of the rotor is being polished out by friction, make sure where its contacting.

usual case of khyber was 7.5mm thickness was considered worn out, I recall new were 10mm thick.

[wasim625]

to confirm a bad bearing - use a stethescope - to change it mount it in a hydraulic press and replace the bearing.

Ok. I am on it.
How would you interpret that resonance i am getting from front left side inside the cabin. Is it Axel? CV joint? Or Wheel bearing?

[Driver41]

that list has a suzuki with vented discs which is not your car, you have solid discs.

your rotors are worn out, - I dont think you noticed the rusted and pitted area of the rotor is being polished out by friction, make sure where its contacting.

usual case of khyber was 7.5mm thickness was considered worn out, I recall new were 10mm thick.

Thanks. So its time to change rotors. Any suggestion on brand? any tips to avoid cause-of-death created by our desi mechanics? I cannot DIY but I can guide my mechanic to follow the correct procedure.

[afnan.bashir]

you are seeing a good functioning system, the compressor discharge pipe is always blazing hot, the refrigerant is heated up as its squashed together, the condenser cools down this refrigerant. So if you experience a large difference of temperature on inlet and outlet of condenser then the condenser is working.

If the system cannot pull down the vapour line pressure effectively, and you feel the compressor is lugging badly and have a low reading on the high side port then you have a blocked condenser scenario - in that case you will also experience the high pressure safety switch on the compressor kill it (switch it off) and vent the refrigerant at the same time.

For oil, buy the ND bottle and flush out the compressor too by pumping all the old oil out of it. Fill at different spots to prevent oil slugging.

I have also seen the "finger pressure test" on compressors - which is BS, I dont think any human has fingers to test 200 psi pressure or even the hand dexterity to spin the compressor to 1700 rpm.

Lolx well mechanics are used to do stuff by considering themselves a precise instrument. Anyway pressure switch was not found after I read your post. Connector was bypassed as usual and a fitting was made to block the port for it. Now this makes two possible problems as far as my forensics help me. Either pressure would have been high or low. Txv and condenser respectively could be culprit. Am I wrong? Want to direct or suggest some do's and don't 's

[afnan.bashir]

you are seeing a good functioning system, the compressor discharge pipe is always blazing hot, the refrigerant is heated up as its squashed together, the condenser cools down this refrigerant. So if you experience a large difference of temperature on inlet and outlet of condenser then the condenser is working.

If the system cannot pull down the vapour line pressure effectively, and you feel the compressor is lugging badly and have a low reading on the high side port then you have a blocked condenser scenario - in that case you will also experience the high pressure safety switch on the compressor kill it (switch it off) and vent the refrigerant at the same time.

For oil, buy the ND bottle and flush out the compressor too by pumping all the old oil out of it. Fill at different spots to prevent oil slugging.

I have also seen the "finger pressure test" on compressors - which is BS, I dont think any human has fingers to test 200 psi pressure or even the hand dexterity to spin the compressor to 1700 rpm.

Lolx well mechanics are used to do stuff by considering themselves a precise instrument. Anyway pressure switch was not found after I read your post. Connector was bypassed as usual and a fitting was made to block the port for it. Now this makes two possible problems as far as my forensics help me. Either pressure would have been high or low. Txv and condenser respectively could be culprit. Am I wrong? Want to direct or suggest some do's and don't 's

[afnan.bashir]

Ok. I am on it.
How would you interpret that resonance i am getting from front left side inside the cabin. Is it Axel? CV joint? Or Wheel bearing?

Axcel and CV joints noise differ than bearing squeaking and bearing squaking is somewhat random or in irregular pattern, secondly when you use stethoscope primary noise will be of portion where you touch

[aa1oas]

hi @xulfiqar,
i need ur help bro..i own a only 20K driven swift...yesterday during drive, car was getting very hot...upon inspection i found that the radiator fluid was dripping constantly...now the radiator is completely dry..all i want is ask is
1. which is the best radiator fluid?
2. owning to too much workload nowadays i might take car to mech next week will it be ok to leave radiator dry for a week (ofcourse i wont drive)?
3. where do you think issue lies ?

[wasim625]

Axcel and CV joints noise differ than bearing squeaking and bearing squaking is somewhat random or in irregular pattern, secondly when you use stethoscope primary noise will be of portion where you touch

I don't have any squeak does that rule out bad bearing? I only feel resonance at particular speeds. Thats what i am concerned about.

[wasim625]

hi @xulfiqar,
i need ur help bro..i own a only 20K driven swift...yesterday during drive, car was getting very hot...upon inspection i found that the radiator fluid was dripping constantly...now the radiator is completely dry..all i want is ask is
1. which is the best radiator fluid?
2. owning to too much workload nowadays i might take car to mech next week will it be ok to leave radiator dry for a week (ofcourse i wont drive)?
3. where do you think issue lies ?

O well first of all let me congratulate you you are massively lucky as you werr driving a car with dried out radiator and your gasket and other engine components are not damaged at all.

-You didn't say where you saw rad. Fluid dripping from? Radiator? or hose pipes? Or a joint?
- before thinking about best fluid you should be more concerned about from where is it getting out of system/leaking out.
- its ok for the radiator to be dry if you are not driving the car. With dry radiator engine should not be used for even one second.

[afnan.bashir]

hi @Xulfiqar,
i need ur help bro..i own a only 20K driven swift...yesterday during drive, car was getting very hot...upon inspection i found that the radiator fluid was dripping constantly...now the radiator is completely dry..all i want is ask is
1. which is the best radiator fluid?
2. owning to too much workload nowadays i might take car to mech next week will it be ok to leave radiator dry for a week (ofcourse i wont drive)?
3. where do you think issue lies ?

Issue is bad Radiator CAP. Its not holding up the pressure. Allowes coolant to go into reservoir and finally overflow. Change it 200 rupee is good way to spend before paying heavy money on other things.

For coolant go for OEM one pre mixed. Get it done from Suzuki. If they want to put OSAKA say them a big NO. Best what i use is Poision by Caltex with 50/50 ratio in distilled water (Not mineral water)

[afnan.bashir]

I don't have any squeak does that rule out bad bearing? I only feel resonance at particular speeds. Thats what i am concerned about.

Resonance or Humming at certain speeds can be due to different things. But if its bearing it will do all the way.

[SER_GTR]

Lolx well mechanics are used to do stuff by considering themselves a precise instrument. Anyway pressure switch was not found after I read your post. Connector was bypassed as usual and a fitting was made to block the port for it. Now this makes two possible problems as far as my forensics help me. Either pressure would have been high or low. Txv and condenser respectively could be culprit. Am I wrong? Want to direct or suggest some do's and don't 's

Desi Jugaar Spotted Doing This...You Compressor Can Rest In Peace ...The Mechanic Who Worked On It Before Seems Like A Typical Jugaaro Who Think Everyone Is Ch******** Expect Him

[afnan.bashir]

Desi Jugaar Spotted Doing This...You Compressor Can Rest In Peace ...The Mechanic Who Worked On It Before Seems Like A Typical Jugaaro Who Think Everyone Is Ch******** Expect Him

Please help me understand answett to questions from image
@xulfiqar
How much oil complete takes I guess 160 ml. Now when remove it will all oil be drained? And then I add 160 secondly how to flush compressor so that old oil and all debris get out and I add new oil

totally makes out to be 250 ml ain't that much? I mean how much total should I add

[Xulfiqar]

the oil capacities are for replacing items, meaning if you change evaporator then add 40 ml oil to the new evaporator. The compressor is shipped with a lot of oil, drain it out so the oil capacity matches the sheet.

[afnan.bashir]

the oil capacities are for replacing items, meaning if you change evaporator then add 40 ml oil to the new evaporator. The compressor is shipped with a lot of oil, drain it out so the oil capacity matches the sheet.

So this means once i flush everything there would be no oil. So i have to put oil in every component as said above? rite? a total of 250 ml?

[searchingeyez]

any alternative of zfr6j-11 plugs for my d14z2? i tried to search it from faisalabad market no one have them .... i want to use copper plugs @xulfiqar @afnan.bashir