Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[Xulfiqar]

Yep. Ecu is equipped. It won't give an error as egr is there and plugged in with the harness. Its probably even opening and closing as per ecu commands for all i know, but whatever is coming out of it is going into the air (since no vacuum pipe has been connected after swap).

Are you sure about fuel consumption not being improved? I read around that it does help, which led me to bring it to its factory position.

If it doesn't, then i'll just leave the egr nipple open and take rs. 400 back by returning the solenoid

But on a serious note, i would love to see it work. When the car is in idle, and i plug the vacuum pipe directly from IM to EGR (without any solenoid in between), the car would bog down and stall. Same thing happens with solenoid installed but after driving a bit. Then once it has started bogging down and stalls, it state remains same even after restarting car. Then i simply have to remove the vacuum pipe from egr.

Could it be im using a vacuum solenoid with bigger vacuum passages?

your solenoid is sticking open, did you plumb it backwards? - EGR not working in an EGR type engine leads to insane knocking, it will feel that the engine is overadvanced in timing.

All it does is lower combustion chamber temperature, not help in economy.

[overspeed111]

what is the condition of the replacement engine? - if the person is after more engine power then Im pretty sure he/she must have tried to squeeze out every last drop of power from the engine, test it - if its a good engine, if it is then its a good option.

Install it on original stuff - correct the whole wiring while the engine is out. This way you wont have any issues later on.

yes that's what i have to check but any how i feel that engine is only good if i buy it and then complete haul it, as i have to admit that its a matter of time with this how could be a 30 years old engine be in its own seals or never opened liked thing.
then i recall my uncle who had original detomatsu 85 charade and it does looks like a new thing, no bolt was ever opened and its engine starts like a new car (soundless), i even begged him to sale that car to me but he didn't agreed and transfered that to his daughter, there are too few people like this.

sir how to check a engine if its in the car or if its out of the car?
i only know that to check a engine i only have to rev up to check for smoke from exhaust, but i may be wrong in all this or buy a compression tester for this purpose.

charade diesel variant engine is better or petrol variant engine is better, if i go for purchase and haul option (in this case cost is very high) as the car's own value is not enough to cover up these cost later up on sale.

[Maverickiz3d]

your solenoid is sticking open, did you plumb it backwards? - EGR not working in an EGR type engine leads to insane knocking, it will feel that the engine is overadvanced in timing.

All it does is lower combustion chamber temperature, not help in economy.

You mean turn around its direction? Currently its arrow is pointed towards the IM; as in, the gases will go from egr to IM.

There is no knocking, not that any is heard, but i do feel slight drag under 2k rpm (2nd gear usually). How does car respond in overadvanced timing?

But since there is no code, i assume egr is functional and gases are most likely being released by the egr. Only that they are not being recirculated into the IM. Anyway to test it? Maybe cover the nipple with a thin polythene and see if it inflates?

If egr is releasing gases out of its nipple, that would mean its lowering combustion chamber temperatures and therefore no knocking. Correct?

[Xulfiqar]

You mean turn around its direction? Currently its arrow is pointed towards the IM; as in, the gases will go from egr to IM.

There is no knocking, not that any is heard, but i do feel slight drag under 2k rpm (2nd gear usually). How does car respond in overadvanced timing?

But since there is no code, i assume egr is functional and gases are most likely being released by the egr. Only that they are not being recirculated into the IM. Anyway to test it? Maybe cover the nipple with a thin polythene and see if it inflates?

If egr is releasing gases out of its nipple, that would mean its lowering combustion chamber temperatures and therefore no knocking. Correct?

EGR gases do not flow out of the vacuum nipple, it has a large fitting right into the intake manifold. The vacuum is to lift the plunger only.

[Maverickiz3d]

EGR gases do not flow out of the vacuum nipple, it has a large fitting right into the intake manifold. The vacuum is to lift the plunger only.

Ok that's so different than what i had in mind, and it makes sense too. So the vacuum is only to lift the plunger inside the egr valve on command. This means the gases are moving in that particular area right under the valve. I hope I grasped it right. This would mean egr is never working in my car since no vacuum to suck it open.

What are the 3 wires of the egr for? Telling when to open the vacuum solenoid?

But the problem remains...where am i wrong with the setup? What could be causing the engine to bog down? I will try reversing the vacuum solenoid direction if that's what you suggested earlier.

[Xulfiqar]

Ok that's so different than what i had in mind, and it makes sense too. So the vacuum is only to lift the plunger inside the egr valve on command. This means the gases are moving in that particular area right under the valve. I hope I grasped it right. This would mean egr is never working in my car since no vacuum to suck it open.

What are the 3 wires of the egr for? Telling when to open the vacuum solenoid?

But the problem remains...where am i wrong with the setup? What could be causing the engine to bog down? I will try reversing the vacuum solenoid direction if that's what you suggested earlier.

the exhaust gases are routed from the "base" of the valve. The exhaust gas passage is cast through the head in your engine. The reason for the bog down is that the EGR is being pulled open too much and the engine bogs down. I think you have either wired it wrong or the plumbing is backwards, the vacuum solenoid is not able to vent the vacuum when deenergized.

The 3 wires on the EGR are the travel sensor. They relay information back to the ECU of much the EGR valve is opening. That sensor also wears out and can muddle up the EGR function.

[Maverickiz3d]

the exhaust gases are routed from the "base" of the valve. The exhaust gas passage is cast through the head in your engine. The reason for the bog down is that the EGR is being pulled open too much and the engine bogs down. I think you have either wired it wrong or the plumbing is backwards, the vacuum solenoid is not able to vent the vacuum when deenergized.

The 3 wires on the EGR are the travel sensor. They relay information back to the ECU of much the EGR valve is opening. That sensor also wears out and can muddle up the EGR function.

Wiring is correct, but i'll double check. However, i think the culprit is the solenoid. I don't think the solenoid i have hooked up will work. First of all it has bigger holes and is certainly meant for something else (maybe purge), and secondly its just keeping the vacuum pressure built up keeping the EGR open.

What honda is mentioning it in parts catalog is Frequency solenoid. I need to find this now.

[saboor73]

yes that's what i have to check but any how i feel that engine is only good if i buy it and then complete haul it, as i have to admit that its a matter of time with this how could be a 30 years old engine be in its own seals or never opened liked thing.
then i recall my uncle who had original detomatsu 85 charade and it does looks like a new thing, no bolt was ever opened and its engine starts like a new car (soundless), i even begged him to sale that car to me but he didn't agreed and transfered that to his daughter, there are too few people like this.

sir how to check a engine if its in the car or if its out of the car?
i only know that to check a engine i only have to rev up to check for smoke from exhaust, but i may be wrong in all this or buy a compression tester for this purpose.

charade diesel variant engine is better or petrol variant engine is better, if i go for purchase and haul option (in this case cost is very high) as the car's own value is not enough to cover up these cost later up on sale.

Daihatsu cb series are tough engine IMO diesel ones are more fun (kept both) but parts are expensive for diesel and short cutting in maintenance is the failure point for these engines

[aamirahsan89]

Just a thought, is there any replacement pump outside of the original one for the pajero 4m41, ideally looking for a more reliable and cheaper solution.

[muhammadfaisal73]

get a replacement flywheel or have your original one recut correctly.

Thanks brother
how to know that fly wheel is re-cut correctly?
if go for new then what should be its dimensions, sizes, etc.
Also pls tell me what are the key points to maintain when installing new clutch set, i mean distance b/w pressure and friction plates?

[addeology]

Re-posting..

@xulfiqar .hru bro. I got 5 door pajero gen 1.high roof. I want to swap a petrol engine in it. My usual traveling is on GT road n Motorways. Twice in a year to hilly areas. Speed and pick is priority. Need ur suggestion for a reasonable powered engine and in economical one too. V6 and 5vz r above 1 lac so thts out of range.

[saboor73]

Re-posting..

@xulfiqar .hru bro. I got 5 door pajero gen 1.high roof. I want to swap a petrol engine in it. My usual traveling is on GT road n Motorways. Twice in a year to hilly areas. Speed and pick is priority. Need ur suggestion for a reasonable powered engine and in economical one too. V6 and 5vz r above 1 lac so thts out of range.

What ever you try you simple can't beat the lower end of a diesel (IMO car with less lower end is no fun on road) better try some sound deadening if you don't like sound of diesel

[addeology]

What ever you try you simple can't beat the lower end of a diesel (IMO car with less lower end is no fun on road) better try some sound deadening if you don't like sound of diesel

Yar pick is also a problem. I have alto M13a, 200% difference.

[aamirahsan89]

Yar pick is also a problem. I have alto M13a, 200% difference.

Go for the original v6, there is one that was offered in the low roof models. 3.5 litre of I am not wrong, should fit without alteration as its an originally offered engine

[saboor73]

Yar pick is also a problem. I have alto M13a, 200% difference.

See if you can find a 6g75 mivec version BTW try to stay away from the GDI mitsu engines

[Marschall]

Planning to go for a little overhaul need ur recommendations

1.Shocks replacement, found a guy in Lhr giving me Sachs front and rear for 45k cudnt find Bilstein other options are vaico and meyle
2.Also planning to go for steering shock absorbers same SACHs
3.Should i change the centre drag link assembly as well
4.How will i know these shocks wont lower my vehicle its japanese spec so its a bit higher (i guess)
5.Wht about the springs and what else do i req for the suspension setup
p.s i bought a used EIS with a compatible fob can i just replace my eis and the new key wud work or do i req coding of the ecu

[MADDYBOY]

[INDENT]i am facing very odd kind of problem
i have 2015 civic basic model
the problem is whenever i fill its petrol tank to FULL after that whenever i press the brake,car is about to stop at that point it makes noise from tank like a wave. also when half of the petrol is consumed then there is no noise
i took car to dealer they also analysed the same problem but they says that is normal nothing to worry about
so i am looking for some expert advise what could be the problem as car is in warranty

regards[/INDENT]

[wasim625]

I am on it.
This morning I started the car and the engine stalled - it stalls for maybe 30 secs on first morning start the IAC valve kicks in and things get better within a minute, I hope its normal, is it? - when it stalled the belt squeaked, there wasn't any load on alternator but it did stall when ever the engine went in low rpms but there weren't any squeaks in normal rpms.
What do you think about that?

Bumpss

[arsalankhan321]

Hearing sound like (produced by friction) when Ac is on.but now sound is also coming when ac is off but is very low as compared to when AC is on.(And also sound dissapear on higher speed and when speed lower it again appear )What is problem is it compresser bearing or any other @xulfiqar @capsat @margallar

[capsat]

possibly water pump aka water body heading for death.

Hearing sound like (produced by friction) when Ac is on.but now sound is also coming when ac is off but is very low as compared to when AC is on.(And also sound dissapear on higher speed and when speed lower it again appear )What is problem is it compresser bearing or any other @Xulfiqar @capsat @margallar