Ask Xulfiqar - An Automotive Encyclopedia

[capsat]

are 130 to 135 psi

am afraid the engine is coming to end of life (EOL), overhaul it with new parts. please skip the idea of swap.

[haroon.virk]

@capsat
Can I ask why you prefer engine overhaul instead of swap?

[nwzixh147]

How is the permofmance of engine and fuel consumption?

[nwzixh147]

How is the permofmance of engine and fuel consumption?

[Xulfiqar]

The pcv system is not just the valve, its the whole breathing setup which is also in valve cover, if your engine crankcase is not airtight and is leaking oil from places, it will cause the pcv to not work.

[Xulfiqar]

Swap will net you an engine of no known history or life,

With repair you get it back to manufacturer control specification.

For your oil burn and that much of it, it maybe cooked valve seals which have hammered down the valve seats too.

[pwuser165176643628]

Isn't there anyway of checking engine health before purchase? Like compression test and checking sludge etc

[haroon.virk]

To me the performance is ok, there is sometimes feels like knocking even at 2k rpm. The fuel average (without AC) at highway is 17 km/l at a speed of 100 km/h.

[nwzixh147]

As xulfiqar said check the whole pcv system and 1 litre is not a lot for 2000 km which oil grade ur using and I don't think 2sz parts are avilable if u want tk swap find a decent 1nz engine u will love the ride

[haroon.virk]

There is no leaking of oil anywhere.

[haroon.virk]

Right now PSO Carient 5w30.
Have to check if 2szfe parts are available or not.
1nzfe is a bolt on fitting even the wiring grips?

[Xulfiqar]

Compression test is only good when everything else is good,

That cannot be judged till engine is installed, run under load repeatedly and then rechecked.

[Hassan1991]

You can use borescope to check the condition of pistons. And take the manifolds off to check valves.
But as sir Xulfiqar said. Doing compression test of a scrapie engine just after picking it up is useless. Corroded valve seats wouldn't let compression to build up.

[haroon.virk]

@Xulfiqar @capsat
Which thing to be used to clean MAF sensor?
1. Isopropyl Alcohol
2. Electrical Contact Cleaner
3. Carburettor Cleaner
Thanks

[nwzixh147]

Contact cleaner is best as far I know but @xulfiqar sir can further elaborate coz contact cleaner leaves no residue anything which won't leave residue will be good

[pwuser165176643628]

Also can you guide us if we have an older engine like 2nzfe which requires sl grade oil, is it actually beneficial using newer sp and gf6 grade oils for it or is it a waste of money?

[freebirdofhell]

@Xulfiqar @capsat Recently after coming back from lahore ring road my car showed an over heat sign so i stopped it and let it cool down and then i checked the radiator and it didn't have any water leak and it doesn't overheat in local driving so I have been thinking about flushing and changing my 660cc Daihatsu move car cooling system from water to coolant.

I did some research and found out i should flush the car cooling system with citric acid but one thing that i am not sure about is how can i go about cleaning the engine block and heater core. So i need some guidance but first let me share the things i got and the steps i am going to take so correct me if i am wrong in any of the steps.

So the stuff i bought: Caltex 2 litter bottle coolant and 3 liter distilled water (My car takes 3 liter coolant)

Steps:

1] Drain all the water from the radiator and expansion tank.

2] remove thermostat valve and refit all the pipes.

3] create a mixture of 3 liter warm water and 300 gram citric acid and pour it into the radiator and start the car and fill till no bubbles come out.

4] Run the car for 20 min and turn on the heater and fan to the max and then turn off the engine and let it cool down

5] Drain all the water from radiator and repeat step 3 and 4 with baking soda (this one i am not sure about is this step really necessary? because i have heard baking soda can damage aluminum heater core and radiator)

6] Repeat the flush again with just plain water and then drain it from the radiator and engine block coolant drain bolt ( does it even exist in 660c cars?)

7] Drain the heater core with compressed air by removing the inlet and outlet hoses and blowing air through the outlet hose (i think it's called back flush? also is it necessary to do this step and can i just use compressed air and not water to remove water from heater core?)

8] Refit thermostat valve and fill the radiator and expansion tank with 50/50 coolant mixture and then start car and let it run for 5-10 min and let all the bubbles out and fill it till its full

So those are the steps i am going take but i am worried about any leaks happening, Can you tell me what are the chances of any leak happening? Also is citric acid just as good as Liqui moli radiator cleaner? Is baking soda step necessary if i don't flush heater core and engine block?

It will be huge help if you can guide me here, Thanks.

[capsat]

you can do all these step under supervision of @syncview at his workshop to cater for any eventuality. 0321 4106898 is the contact number send a message or voice note and wait for call back

[capsat]

this is most comprehensive generic description of how to flush clean the cooling system

[jatt.zaildar]

AoA Experts..
I am experiencing jerks//missing (not severe/hard, but mild noticeable) when I start cruising at 120 km/hr. No missing while accelerating (3000 rpm to 4000 rpm) and havent felt at 130+ km/hr (or maybe were imperceptible).. But car keep on missing at cruise between 100 - 130 km/hr.
What can be the reason?
Civic 2009
Spark Plugs = 90,000 km done (iridium tip)
Thank you in advance.
.
P.S. Few days ago Got the car serviced. After 3 km drive post-service, stopped the engine, started again and car started jerking very severely for few seconds and then engine stopped. After that its driving fine again...