Best Mechanic for Accord A16a1 engine in Karachi

[pwuser157216306436]

@Xulfiqar bhai my mechanic pulled out the engine and repaired but after he fitted it back, my Power Steering is hard and i guess it's not working anymore. What could be the reason? What he might have done wrong or forgot to do? I am worried. These mechanics ruin cars instead of repairing

[pwuser157216306436]

I further noticed that the Carburetor has been replaced with Civic's Carb and also an after market fuel pump. Is it possible to use accord's OEM fuel pump with this carb?

[Xulfiqar]

Good luck finding the factory fuel pump for this car, its a very low pressure electric fuel pump (looks like a tiny sized efi fuel pump) and this car has a dead head fuel system (no return line from engine to tank, it only has a supply line)

I dont know how this afternarket pump is plumbed, did someone add an extra fuel return line?

The fuel pump relay is a bit unique too, it has a 1 second key on timer (this primes the fuel system like an EFI car anytime the key is spun to “on” and then the actual run on is latched with the rpm signal, as long as there is an rpm signal to it, the relay is latched and pump keeps running. (Like an efi car)

You can try to use a suzuki low pressure intank pump.

[pwuser157216306436]

Thanks @Xulfiqar bhai for such a detailed input. We lack such professional advise from so called mechanics these days.

Yes, whoever has replaced the carb has also added a return line to it. I don't know how but it's working somehow.

So technically, what I have inferred, I will need it's OEM fuel pump and also it's OEM carb to support it? As this Civic carb do have a return line and OEM fuel pump won't support it/need a return line?

Another question, will it be a wise decision to do so to revert it back, considering the abuse mechanics have already done? How easier it will be? Keeping in view the limited temperament and knowledge of mechanics these days. Sourcing parts is easier than making them do such job professionally.

Or

Just keep running this fragile setup until I can afford to swap it with F18B or other such EFI engine?

I wish we had passionate professionals here in Karachi

[Xulfiqar]

The return line has nothing to do with civic vs accord carb, the problem you will face is that the civic carburetor has narrow throats as compared to the accord one and because the main and power jets are not removable in thse you cannot change the fuelling

Now comes the big problem, this engine has more displacement and has a longer intake which means very strong suction at the carb, and because you have installed a narrow throat carburetor, the carb will literally dump fuel into the engine

Imagine like sucking a coca cola can with a thin 3mm juice straw compared to a regular 5mm one.

You will get a lot of drink on very little suction.

[pwuser157216306436]

@Xulfiqar bhai 'Brake Lamp' indicator turns on when I drive. What could be the reason? Brake oil level is ok. Does it indicate anything serious or just an electrical malfunction?

[Xulfiqar]

The little wide thin indicator at the bottom of the pictogram of the open doors?

[pwuser157216306436]

Exactly! That wide one at the bottom of open door indicators

[Xulfiqar]

Thats the rear brake lamp bulb out warning lamp,

Check to see if the bulbs work as required, there is a small sensor piece on the lamp housing in the back that make this lamp check work. Make sure it’s plugged in.

And make sure you use actual correct wattage bulbs there, not LEDs.

[pwuser157216306436]

Thanks @Xulfiqar bhai. I will check the bulbs, there must be some aftermarket LEDs installed. I will replace those with simple ones.

There is another issue with the suspension. I got it repaired from Afzaal Autos recently after reading many of the recommendations in the forum. Afzaal bhai did a decent job and repaired all 4 shocks, pressed joints (front upper) and later he also repaired the steering rod. Still, I'm not satisfied with the front suspension.

I don't know how to describe it, but it feels like there is a sort of loosing somewhere in the front suspension. When I drive it on rough bumpy patches (most of the roads in Karachi are rough these days), there is a weird tak tak sound with that unpleasant vibration coming from the front suspension, which is felt through the steering. However, on the smooth roads, it's calm and quite.

My mechanic, who recently worked on the engine, has identified damage to the D-bush and other suspension bushes, recommending their replacement.

Could you please help me understand the potential causes of the issue and what specific questions or requests I should discuss with Afzaal bhai when I visit him on Saturday?

[Xulfiqar]

For the clunky steering, make sure the steering shaft intermediate joint is greased up, a lot of pk mechanics dont know that it even exists. It causes a sharp tick tick sensation when the rack vibrates and transfers the motion to the steering shaft.

For the rest, I would suggest to loosen all bushings and tighten them with wheels at ready to drive height so you dont have them in torsion.

And inspect the rear suspension very very carefully, a worn out bushing in the rear causes this car to “rear steer” which can lead you to overhaul the front a dozen times before you realize the problem is at the back.

[pwuser157216306436]

That's something important, I was more focused on front suspension. I have scheduled the visit for suspension recheck tomorrow and will do check the rear suspension first.

[pwuser157216306436]

@Xulfiqar bhai, is this the OEM fuel pump for 87 Accord? Or it's different? I am working on finding one in shershah and chah sultan. Just wanted to confirm before i could purchase.

[pwuser157216306436]

This one is available box pack. Vendor is saying it's original one. Is it the right one?

[pwuser157216306436]

@Xulfiqar bhai I'm facing smoke issue on cold start. Not always, but on some days. Smoke appears on cold start until engine warms up after I drive it for few minutes. Engine is 165k Driven and I'm using LiquiMoly 20W50 Formula Super. What be the reason? Is it the gasket, valves or Ring Pistons warn out?

[Xulfiqar]

Your valve seals and guides are toast, are the spark plugs crusty white?

[pwuser157216306436]

Thanks @Xulfiqar bhai for accurate diagnosis. All work done. Valve seals and guides including rings and gasket all changed. Car is back to action finally. Also changed its dugdugi pump to stock in-tank fuel pump and car is smooth now. But i have noticed petrol smell in the cabin. I couldn't locate exact source of the smell but it feels more towards the driver side? @Xulfiqar bhai what could be the potential diagnosis and it's solution? Is the source of smell inside the cabin or near the engine? Need your guidance

[Xulfiqar]

You mentioned that there was a fuel return line added, that means the tank was punctured probably.

Can you verify that the tank is fully intact? There should be no return line on this car. Its a dead head system.

You had to change the piston rings? Were the bores rehoned? Were the old bores polished like glass?

Is the pcv system fully intact? The pcv valve on this engine has a hose connection directly to the sump.

[pwuser157216306436]

That extra fuel line has been welded in the fuel pump assembly next to the original fuel outlet. I personally checked it and it was fine with no leakage. Fuel tank was washed before installation of new fuel pump and it was completely fine with no leakage as well.

Only rings were changed And bores were polished, but i doubt the extent of polish and efforts put into it by the mechanic. As it was done in my absence.

For PCV system, I really have no idea whether it's intact or not. Could you please guide where to check for it and how to diagnose if there is any malfunction? The smell is more evident near the driver side. It's hard to locate the vapour source

[Xulfiqar]

Is the tank venting valve actually connected and working? How about the little plastic fuel filter on the side of the tank?

Is the original fuel pump relay intact? Its not a simple relay.

Speaking of the engine work, were the bores honed? Or were the old ones polished like glass finish (polished like glass are worn out bores) and new rings slapped on with a helper under the oil rings?