Cultus engine and body overhaul and rebuild

[amansoor]

I Doubt that the earlier model sold in pakistan are equiped with 88 C T valve while the later ones are sold with 82 C by paksuzuki.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i dont agree , because the T valve which i instal in my 07 cultus is the one which my cousion has grounded it from his 03 FF CNG cultus , he ground it for no reason and now using plain water as coolant,,,,,,,,,,,,,second i will conform on my 07 FF CNG cultus that what T valve it is using,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
but the valve which i got from my cousion reads 82 DC ,,,,,,,,,,,,and you are saying the older models comes with 88 DC ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Thepage # 380 of Instruction manual also says that operating temp is 88 C. Have u check ur car on Highway in cold weather? i believe with 82 C T Valve it shud be same as i posted in previous pics Coz Radiator Fan triggers On at above 91 C & that time Temp guage needle is almost in half so the difffence of ~10 Degree C on temp guage must reflect this much diffrence.

yes thats the point,,,,,,,,,,,may be valve opens at 88 DC and fan triggers on 91+ DC,,,,,,,,,,,,well i will say your after market T valve is not reliable,,,,,,,,,,,,,
i will conform in my 07 cultus whose gauge aways stands still in middle that what T valve it is using ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,[/QUOTE]

My 05 carby cultus also have 82 C marked on T state bt when i travel on highway at 110 or 120 km/h temp guage needle drops from center point. I know my T state is 100% orignal.

[Xulfiqar]

A bit confusion here in my understanding. Would you suggest that the fuel pump should keep running on CNG as well provided that the return line is before solenoid??

I thought it should be better to turn the fuel pump ON only when FUEL solenoid is energised. In this case, return line can be routed after solenoid.

Regarding the wire routing issue, you just need to disconnect the pump +ve and connect it to solenoid +ve near the CNG switch. Not a big issue. Is usually done near driver side foot panel.

The main reason suzuki does not wire the pump to the CNG solenoid is fire-hazard in a crash. In the original setup - the fuel pump will stop when the alternator stops spinning even with ignition key in ON position. with CNG wiring it would be ON regardless of condition.

all electric fuel pump cars are like that, even the old Mazda 1500 and 929s were like that, their fuel pump were run by AC voltage relay that got signal from the coil negative (rpm) wire. It was also done due to safety.

[amansoor]

i need help with fuel convertor switch as it start problem whenever i want to convert to petrol from cng. Only a click sound comes from switch and all leds blink once then return on cng state again with no change. And some time car start missing when this heppens its due to mixing a small amaunt of petrol with gas i think. Is it switch problem or some relays which didnt pickup fuel pump load. Plz help me

[agoodfriend]

i need help with fuel convertor switch as it start problem whenever i want to convert to petrol from cng. Only a click sound comes from switch and all leds blink once then return on cng state again with no change. And some time car start missing when this heppens its due to mixing a small amaunt of petrol with gas i think. Is it switch problem or some relays which didnt pickup fuel pump load. Plz help me

problem can only be solved by simply changing the switch with the original one but one last desperate try can be made by introducing a single point relay on 2 black coils of CNG regulator ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,in my case this totaka works,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[agoodfriend]

The main reason suzuki does not wire the pump to the CNG solenoid is fire-hazard in a crash. In the original setup - the fuel pump will stop when the alternator stops spinning even with ignition key in ON position. with CNG wiring it would be ON regardless of condition.

all electric fuel pump cars are like that, even the old Mazda 1500 and 929s were like that, their fuel pump were run by AC voltage relay that got signal from the coil negative (rpm) wire. It was also done due to safety.

ok so if this is the reason then even then we can control that pump , simply introduce a single point replay powered by the solenoid coil input,,,,,,,,,,,,,,replay will switch on when solenoid is on and inturns switches on the pump,,,,,,,,,,,,,pump will stop when alternator dies because its still getting supply from its original connections ,,,,,,,,

[agoodfriend]

hele PWs here i do some modification in my car fuel pump to save it from excessive wear and premature failure , in normal condition fuel pump keep on running even when the car is converted on CNG and at that time its supply line is blocked which puts extra load on it and casses it to fail , this is a common problem in those cars which mostelly run on CNG , many time it happens that your fuel pump fails , so by this simple mod you can save it , all you need is a single point replay and figuring out some cable under your carpet near acclerator pedel , cables colors are mention in pic , all process need not more than 10 min , now fuel pump will only run when i shift my car from CNG to petrol and shuts off while car is on CNG ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,pump will only run while engine is running and will switch off as it dies (while the ignition is still on),,,,,,,,,,,i guess i can save the fuel pump for alteast some time ,,,,,,,,,,,,,will be help full you guys must gave it a try ,,,,,,,,

n

[agoodfriend]

[Xulfiqar]

nice approach - but you should also look into installling a snubber in the relay coil wiring. Otherwise the collapsing field shock can damage the CNG switch.

[mirzahadi]

I have a couple of problems with my Cultus 2006. I was just wondering if I should open a new thread on that or start posting here. Thanks

[agoodfriend]

nice approach - but you should also look into installling a snubber in the relay coil wiring. Otherwise the collapsing field shock can damage the CNG switch.

a simple rectifier diode wired in parallel with an inductive load can also be used as a snubber ?

[agoodfriend]

I have a couple of problems with my Cultus 2006. I was just wondering if I should open a new thread on that or start posting here. Thanks

what problems do your cultus have ?

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[agoodfriend]

Well I checked one of my friends car which is VXR 2007 model with FF CNG & T valve claimed not to be removed & that car's Temp Guage response is also same as in mine. I Doubt that the earlier model sold in pakistan are equiped with 88 C T valve while the later ones are sold with 82 C by paksuzuki. Thepage # 380 of Instruction manual also says that operating temp is 88 C. Have u check ur car on Highway in cold weather? i believe with 82 C T Valve it shud be same as i posted in previous pics Coz Radiator Fan triggers On at above 91 C & that time Temp guage needle is almost in half so the difffence of ~10 Degree C on temp guage must reflect this much diffrence.

thats what i obeserved today evening while travelling within city on a very cold day , guage right in mid during all drive, its equiped with 82 DC original T valve and radiator fan was also on auto

[agoodfriend]

helo friends , today i buy few thing for my car including this Guard coolant in 4 liter packing and also this radiator cleaner , also buy car top cover because summer season is ahead , plz suggest me this cheap radiator cleaner is worth to use or not ,,,,,,,,,,,,,it cost just 50 Rs and made by same company which also makes "sweep" which is used for wash room cleaning ,,,,,,,,,,,,,also will gave a coolant test by putting it in freezer , right now i just checked that my kitchen freezer is full up to its mouth and deep freezer is off and not in use because of winter , will later gave it a test and share here on PW ,

[margallar]

better switch to caltex coolant,it keeps the radiator from rusting, tried and tested

[agoodfriend]

helo PWs , in this post i will show you how to service your cultus heating system , its hidden deep under the dash board and you have to remove each and every thing to acess it , dash board , speedo meter , AC fan blower , steering column , you can check my previous posts to learn how to remove all these things , ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,no need to remove the AC evaporator to remove the heating system,,,,,,,,,,,its really a very very long process to pull all these things out , so i suggest service it only in must to do case ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i remove all these things to insulate my car and do some wiring repair so i service the heating system because its already out from car and later found thats its not in bad shape , may be its previous owner has never use the heater , for cleaning i wont recomend to wash the casing , because the foam seals inside the casing can easily be destroyed with water , so batter gave it a dry clean with wet cloth , for cleaning the heating radiator you can use surf or if its blocked from inside then take it to the radiator cleaning shop and ask him to clean/serice this small radiator as they clean the engine radiator, any how check the pic ,

[agoodfriend]

[Xulfiqar]

a simple rectifier diode wired in parallel with an inductive load can also be used as a snubber ?

That'll work too in all simplicity too

[xzap042]

isn't there any possibility to pull it out from side without removing all of dashboard? my heater only gives out slightly warm air and i want to service it but to remove all dashboard.. that would be a problem.

[mirzahadi]

what problems do your cultus have ?

OK, from now on I am going to post all my problems here. The ultimate goal being to bring the car to factory settings. Before further elaboration, a little background on my car.

My father bought this 2006 Cultus brand new. I belong to a farming family so this car went through a lot rough time. By the time I got my hands on this car, it had multiple heat issues and horrible suspension noises which it still has. My father didn't find coolant to be a very attractive option so the car was running on water for all these years.

Car's mileage is around 75k.

To the specifics. The car has the following problems:

1- The perennial problem of coolant reduction. The coolant reduces slowly to a point that I have to top of the reservoir once every two days. No visible leakage anywhere in the car. No signs of water or milky stuff on the oil check rod. No white smoke in the exhaust. Head gasket was changed about a month ago. I have no idea what kind of job the mechanics did. Maybe the head is warped?? How to check? The car had a lot of rusty stuff when I put a coolant in it. Even the temperature gauge wouldn't work because of the rust deposits formed in front of it. I haven't done a proper flush, so any idea will be really appreciated.

2- Morning starts need a heavy foot on accelerator. There is that dig dig dig noise when car starts. The car drops RPM if I let go of the pedal. The choke, I guess that is what it is called, kicks in after half a minute and the car smooths out. All this on CNG, didn't try on patrol.

3- First gear requires considerable push to engage. Other gears seem fine.

4- Heater doesn't work. I guess its clogged because of those years of rust inside the hoses.

5- There is rattling in the steering.

5- Fan switch will only work on second position. Nothing comes from the vents on the first. Do you think this is the solution: Geometroforum

6- Passenger door lock is not smooth. It doesn't go to one side or the other in a click. It has to be pushed on either side, or it remains in the middle.

I also had a problem with jerks but they went away with the change of plug wires. I have also bought a new distributor cap and rotor which I am going to switch very soon.

I am planning on doing everything myself. This car is not going to be gutted in another repair shop. I am in the process of gathering all the required tools.

Question for Xulfiqar - I can't find Threebond 1209. Will 1104 work? How about Permatex Ultra Black? And what is your opinion about seafoam?