RIDE CONTROL UPGRADESWhen the handling or ride control performance of a vehicle fails to meet expectations, it opens the door for repairs and upgrades. Repairs are required when parts are broken, bent, worn or out of specifications. Upgrades, on the other hand, can be recommended if the original shocks, struts or springs are considered to be "inadequate" or "unsatisfactory" for the needs of the vehicle owner.
Some vehicles just don't ride very well even when the original equipment shocks and struts are in perfect condition. Many older SUVs and trucks fall into this category. The combination of relatively stiff springs, heavy-duty dampers and large wheels and tires is not one that lends itself to a car-like comfortable ride. This is especially true with short wheelbase SUVs and trucks that tend to have a rough, choppy ride.
Many small economy cars also come up short in terms of ride quality and handling performance. The low mass of the vehicle combined with a lightweight strut suspension and rack and pinion steering means there is little to soak up road feedback and harshness. Owners of these vehicles may want a smoother, softer ride. Many small cars also fail to handle extra weight gracefully, and they may wallow and bottom out when loaded with additional passengers or cargo. A typical complaint from the car's owner may be a plea for extra weight-carrying ability.
Performance cars with sport suspensions can also be a source of ride control complaints. A rock hard suspension may be fine for taking hairpin turns at high speed and generating impressive lateral acceleration numbers on a skid pad, but overly stiff suspension can't handle the rigors of tar strips and potholes for everyday driving. Some vehicle owners may complain of a harsh ride. Others may not mind the punishment and may say the suspension isn't hard enough. They may want even better handling performance and do not mind sacrificing their kidneys in the process.
Ride control complaints can also arise whenever there is a mismatch between a vehicle's suspension and the way the vehicle is used by its owner. If a vehicle is used for towing or off-roading, the suspension and shocks should be set up to handle it.
gas charged off-road shock absorber
The key to selling ride control and handling upgrades is to figure out what exactly you want and what is available to fit your vehicle.
DIAGNOSING RIDE AND HANDLING PROBLEMS
A test drive is always the best way to diagnose a steering, handling or ride control problem. The reason why test drives are often necessary is because motorists don't always describe their vehicle's symptoms accurately. What one person may describe as a shimmy, vibration or bouncy ride may have nothing whatsoever to do with ride control. The real problem may be an out-of-balance wheel, bent rim or too much runout in a tire. So it is important to accurately diagnose the problem before any repairs are made.
It is also important to remember that the suspension and steering are interconnected systems. Problems with one can often affect the other. A weak shock absorber, for example, may do little to dampen bumps, allowing excessive feedback through the steering linkage to the driver. The driver may think he has a steering problem, when in fact the real problem is poor ride control. Likewise, a driver may experience poor steering return or find the steering takes extra effort. Again, he may think this indicates a steering problem, but the real cause may be a bad upper strut bearing.
Something else that should be checked is ride height. More than half an inch difference side to side may indicate weak springs or another suspension problem. Ride height measurements front and rear should also be compared to the specifications in a reference manual (which will also show where these measurements are to be taken). If ride height is at or less than the minimum specified, the springs may be sagging (and new springs should be installed).
With ball joints, replacement is required if wear exceeds factory limits. Inspection procedures and specifications vary from one application to another, so it is important to refer to a ball joint specification chart for the particulars. Many load-carrying, tension-type lower ball joints on General Motors and Ford rear-wheel-drive applications have a built-in wear indicator to show how much wear has taken place inside the joint. This same type of joint is also used in the rear suspension on some GM big front-wheel-drive cars (Cadillac, Buick and Oldsmobile).
Load-carrying ball joints usually wear faster than unloaded ball joints. Consequently, the lower ball joints on an SLA suspension typically wear out before the upper joints wear out. Symptoms of worn ball joints include front wheel shimmy at low speed, steering wander, clunking noises from the front suspension and camber (shoulder) wear on the front tires.
When one joint is badly worn, chances are its companion joint on the opposite side will also be worn or near the end of its service life. The other joint may still be marginally within specifications, but replacing both joints at the same time is a good idea (though not required).
Some ball joints are difficult to replace because they are pressed into the control arm. This requires using a hydraulic press to change the joint. Other joints may require the removal of mounting rivets or the complete replacement of the control arm, which means additional tools (bushing tools, ball joint separator, etc.) may be needed to replace the joint.
SUSPENSION BOUNCE TEST
Some people say a traditional bounce test is not very accurate at diagnosing weak shocks or struts. A test drive is a much better indication of the dampers true condition. Even so, a simple bounce test will often reveal shocks and struts that may need to be replaced.
To do a bounce test, rock one corner of the vehicle up and down several times by pushing down on the bumper or fender, then release it. If the suspension continues to rock up and down more than once, the dampers are not doing much to control the suspension. Next, check the odometer. If the shocks have more than 50,000 miles on them, or the struts have more than 75,000 miles on them - the shocks and/or struts should be replaced.
SHOCK ABSORBERS
Shock absorbers and struts are typically sold as suspension upgrades rather than repair parts. You may need better dampers if you pull a trailer or carry heavier-than-normal loads. Replacing the shocks or struts can also change the way your vehicle rides. You may want a firmer ride, or a softer ride.
Because the damping characteristics of shocks deteriorate gradually over time, the decline in ride control often passes unnoticed. That is why shocks and struts need to be inspected periodically, and if possible, subjected to a road test or a bounce test to see if they are still capable of doing an adequate job. If not, then it is time to replace them.
Worn shocks and struts can be replaced with a variety of standard or upgrade options. Heavy-duty shocks/struts generally have a larger piston bore and are a good for towing. Premium gas-charged shocks/struts can make a noticeable improvement in handling and cornering on vehicles that are not originally equipped with such units. For this reason, gas dampers should be recommended for all applications.
Special high-pressure gas struts and monotube and dual-tube shocks are also available for drivers who want the ultimate in handling performance. Adjustable dampers as well as electronic shocks and struts are also available for applications that require these types of units or drivers who want the ultimate setup.