Engine optimization Corolla 2.0D

[amcolian1097]

I hope the pictures of my car's engine would be visible to all. Now I await advice from experts specially Mr Xulfiqar on the questions

In the first picture you see 2 plungers one is that of CSD (the one in depth) and I wanted to know the function of the second one. Both were marked by me as plunger1 &2 but due to resizing the font is too small to read.

In the second picture there is an adjustment screw which is lying loose and I want you to please tell me its function and what to do with it?

Fiinally of course please tell me the the correct way to release the CSD.

Thank you all.

[Xulfiqar]

here is an explanation of the CSD on your car's pump

When the thing works you can actually see a shaft extended and pushing the advance shaft lever causing the timing to retard and the fast idle cam to drop.

btw what you are calling plunger 2 is the dashpot so the accelerator releases softly. Plunger 1 is the cold start device activation rod

[amcolian1097]

^^ Thanks a lot, Sir. Now the things are quite clear, as far as CSD is concerned. I will get in touch again with a few more questions in a day or two InshaAllah with pictures, because now I have learnt the correct way to upload pictures.

[amcolian1097]

My 3 questions for the moment
1. Before proceeding to get the valve clearance(tappet) adjustment done, should I ensure to make CSD functional. Is it really important. Moreover, does it affect the pump adjustment also, in any way.
2. What are the adjustment shims called in local language used by the mechanics?
3. In your expert opinion, is the procedure of tappet adjustment explained correctly?

1C-LTC and 2C-LTC Engines
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5

Adjust the valve clearance when the engine is cold.

1. Remove the valve covers, discard the gaskets and nut seals.
2. With a socket wrench, turn the crankshaft pulley unit the notch in the pulley aligns with the timing pointer on the front cover. The engine will now be at TDC of the No. 1 cylinder. The lifters on the No. 1 cylinder should be loose, and both those on the No. 4 should be tight. If not turn the crankshaft one complete revolution (360°) and then realign the marks.

1. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the lifter and the camshaft lobe on each valve of the No. 1 cylinder. Then check each valve shown in the illustration. If the clearance is not within specifications, note what it is and write it down on a piece of paper. the readings will be used later to determine the proper adjustment. shims.
2. Turn the crankshaft 360°, in the direction of normal rotation, then align the pointer and notch. Measure the clearance on the valves marked in the illustration.

1. If all the valve measurements were within specifications, you need to go no further. If not, record the measurements on a piece of paper and proceed to Step 7 to begin the valve adjustment procedure.
2. Turn the crankshaft so that the intake lobe of camshaft on any cylinder in need of adjustment, is pointing straight up. both valves on that cylinder may now be adjusted.
3. Using a small screwdriver, turn the lifter so that the notch is easily assessable.
4. Install a depressor, SST 09248-64010 or equivalent, between the two lobes and turn the handle so that the tool presses down both lifters evenly.

1. Using a small screwdriver and a finger magnet, remove the shims.
2. Using the accompanying shim selection chart, measure the thickness of the old shim and locate the previously recorded gap measurement in the chart. Index the two columns to determine the new shim thickness.

1. Install the new shims and remove the tool. Recheck the valve clearance.
2. Repeat this procedure for each affected valve.
3. Install the valve cover using new gaskets and seal washers. Tighten the nuts to 65 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
4. Start the vehicle and check for operation. Top off the engine oil if necessary.

[Xulfiqar]

first make sure the CSD operational and make sure the fast idle system works. Then please religiously use coolant/water mix in your engine to keep it rust free.

then to ease valve clearance adjustment you can measure all the clearances, then remove the camshaft and adjust as necessary. You wont find the press tool easily,

use cable ties to keep the belt aligned on the cam sprocket and pump sprocket. The trouble with nearly all our mechanics is that they dont know that shims can be bought, they remove the entire head and take it to the lathe machine shop who remove the valves and grind then shorter to compensate for clearance loss.

[amcolian1097]

^^ Thanks a lot for a very pertinent advice. I will try my level best to do as told but at the same time it is very much disappointing to learn that whatever we are getting done in the name of vehicle repairs is nowhere close to how it should be done. Nobody has the correct tools, even for the vehicles strongly recommended by mechanics and seen in abundance on roads.

[Xulfiqar]

A little problem I saw in Pakistan was that most mechanics do not respect their tools, I know of a handful of such mechanics that even had made tools carts and sitstools with wheels to ease their work.

They would clean their tools and keep them very safe, such people also had proper specialist tools like simple vibration damper pullers, threaded rods, spacers etc, I know of one that also made an SST to depress the valve lifters in a toyota F engine. They did such to remain healthy and not to wear themselves out while working and tools are a long term investment

Sadly - ALL OF THEM left Pakistan sooner or later.

[amcolian1097]

A little problem I saw in Pakistan was that most mechanics do not respect their tools, I know of a handful of such mechanics that even had made tools carts and sitstools with wheels to ease their work.

They would clean their tools and keep them very safe, such people also had proper specialist tools like simple vibration damper pullers, threaded rods, spacers etc, I know of one that also made an SST to depress the valve lifters in a toyota F engine. They did such to remain healthy and not to wear themselves out while working and tools are a long term investment

Sadly - ALL OF THEM left Pakistan sooner or later.

very right and absolutely true.
Availability of a professional with the right kind of knowledge coupled with the right tools and expertise to use them is a real blessing for all those who benefit out of it. He saves a lot of time, effort and finances at individual as well as national level. the dearth and drainage of such skilled people is a big loss.

[noumanzia]

Please tell some reasonable expert desiel machanic in lahore, also some good diesel laboratory. thanks

[marrijali]

xulfiqar bahi does this engine has a ECU.. coz my engine is missing its ECU... can plz tell me were i could find it and the wiring harnes ??
and does this engine support turbo from Suzuki wagon.R..... and last thing.. were should i connect the RPM meter in this engine ?
hoping for ur reply!!

[marrijali]

Xulfiqar bahi does this engine has a ECU ? becoz my one is missing ECU?
2.. i want to install a turbo into this engine, suzuki wagon turbo would be compaitable or not or some other?
3.. i want to install a RPM meter , completed the wiring but dont know were to connect the sensor wire??
Xulfiqar bahi plzz help !!

[AmeerUsman]

may be Xulfiqar guru did not read ur post, but I can tell u that this 2C engine has no ECU. Dont know about turbo installation.

[agoodfriend]

nice thread ,,,,,,i am also messing with 2D ,,,,,,,,,,its in my use for last coule of weeks,,,,,,,,but till not even open its bonnet,,,,,,,
what engine oil is recomended for toyota 2D 2004 ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i am thinking to go for toyota original oil ,,,,,,,,,

[Xulfiqar]

hmm - I got a PM of the same post, I'll reply here too.

there is no CU for the engine, your engine might have TPS and additional coolant sensors to work with the EGR control module which is a PITA. junk it quick.

@goodfriend

API CH4 or above rated oil of 15W40 viscosity is good, use a good oil filter and change at 5000 kms under normal service in Pakistan. Be absolutely sure that the engine runs at normal temperature. Running it cold will kill it very very shortly, also remember to use good coolant in it otherwise you will erode the block away at the headgasket joint.

[agoodfriend]

thanks dear ,,,,,,,,well after a long break its spanner time again and become so lazy that a simple job of oil change is taking so much time ,i keep on delaying for last so many days,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,mechnacially the engine sound in good shape ,,,,,,,,,,,,very very less exhaust blow , almost unnoticeable,,,,,,,,,i dont think it need any pump/glow plug job ,,,,,,,,,,but i want to replace all the lubricants / filters,,,,,,,,,,,,i think its filled with toyota collant which is of dark pink color ,,,,,,,,,engine runs on healty temperature so i can guess that its fitted with thermostat valve ,,,,,,,,,,

hmm - I got a PM of the same post, I'll reply here too.

there is no CU for the engine, your engine might have TPS and additional coolant sensors to work with the EGR control module which is a PITA. junk it quick.

@goodfriend

API CH4 or above rated oil of 15W40 viscosity is good, use a good oil filter and change at 5000 kms under normal service in Pakistan. Be absolutely sure that the engine runs at normal temperature. Running it cold will kill it very very shortly, also remember to use good coolant in it otherwise you will erode the block away at the headgasket joint.

[agoodfriend]

@amcolian1997,,,,,,,,,,,,dear what average km your 2D is giving in 1 litter desel,,,,,,,,,i am using PSO green excel plus desel , black smoke is almost near to none ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,whats your experence ,,,,,,,,

[amcolian1097]

@amcolian1997,,,,,,,,,,,,dear what average km your 2D is giving in 1 litter desel,,,,,,,,,i am using PSO green excel plus desel , black smoke is almost near to none ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,whats your experence ,,,,,,,,

I am getting good consumption so far.
Average in city is 12-13.5 per litre while on long route I get 17-18 per litre. As far as smoke is concerned I am experiencing black smoke in the morning but I have yet to find time to check the thermostat valve function, nozzle cleaning with liqui moly purge and tappet clearance setting. Can you guide me to a good mechanic for these jobs?

[Xulfiqar]

black smoke at startup is perfectly normal, its because the pump defaults to "startup" mode when its not spinning. the startup mode is maximum fuel.

[amcolian1097]

^^This I understand but probably what I failed to clarify is that the car continues to emit smoke for quite some time, usually for 10-15 min on idling and the engine does not attain optimum temp level for quite some time. I attributed it to faulty thermostat valve which I replaced with a Kabli one about 2 months back ( I could not find a new one in the city I was posted at that time). Inspite of replacement of thermostat valve the temp gauge behaviour is still the same. I am planning to get it changed again over the coming weekend because as per my understanding the engine should attain optimum temp level within 3-5 min of idling. Am I right???????

Another question is about the cold start device. Does any manoeuvring with this part affect the pump setting? 2-3 mechanics I have come across have commented that pump setting is ideal and should not be changed (obviously not checked with a dial gauge).

[Xulfiqar]

The engine should not smoke black whilst idling. If it is then I believe the cold start device is working and the pump is a bit sticky - use a can of liqui moly purge in it. The cold start device works everytime the engine coolant cools down - it does not affect any "setting" externally but moves the camplate to advance position when working - this advance is only good till 1800 rpm after which the pumps own advance system takes over.

For the temperature issue, a diesel engine does not produce much heat at idle speed hence requires the engine to be running under some load at above idle rpm to actually make some heat to warm up. Petrol engines on the other hand produce lots of heat and warm up instantaneously.