H3 tube melts

[shazo]

where and how are you grounding the lamp that burns out?

Well battery -ve to chasis, then a saperate wire has been tight up with scree behind the bumper chasis part, and that wire is going on h3 tube base with tiny screw, now dnt know how he wired up relay, and same pattern with other side, a saperate button has been given for fogs, they wont turn on with parking light point. So there isnt any single blub blown of left side. Only this is with right side.:mad:

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[Xulfiqar]

that can be your problem. ground points are provided in cars for this very reason, Make sure you use proper eyelets and crimp connections and finally use proper connection to the fog lamp housing.

Dont use oversize wires.

the relay to energize the fog lamps should be wired via the parking lamp circuit. in Honda the circuit is hot routed, so you supply the relay trigger with the parking lamp wire, make it such that the fog lamp switch gets power from the parking lamp wire from the wiring junction under the steering column or from behind the interior fuse box and then routed to the lamp relay trigger. The relay can be permanently grounded on the other side, Or you can use a Nissan SPDT type brown relay and switch on ground and power at the same time to the lamps.

[shazo]

that can be your problem. ground points are provided in cars for this very reason, Make sure you use proper eyelets and crimp connections and finally use proper connection to the fog lamp housing.

Dont use oversize wires.

the relay to energize the fog lamps should be wired via the parking lamp circuit. in Honda the circuit is hot routed, so you supply the relay trigger with the parking lamp wire, make it such that the fog lamp switch gets power from the parking lamp wire from the wiring junction under the steering column or from behind the interior fuse box and then routed to the lamp relay trigger. The relay can be permanently grounded on the other side, Or you can use a Nissan SPDT type brown relay and switch on ground and power at the same time to the lamps.

Thanks a billion, ill surely apply it, n yes make a connection with parking switch was in my mind, it should work with them too, however a saperate button could be use with it too :thumbup:

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[wonder_guy]

A simple solution remove the fog lamos and gift it to some one btw that whale p intake is looking good.

[shazo]

A simple solution remove the fog lamos and gift it to some one btw that whale p intake is looking good.

Lol fogs he to asal chez hain g ap ka project ready ho jay retro projector datay ha ap ko choty walay

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[shazo]

Now the bulb has blown again :mad: i changed it on 27th aug, n its 24 sep, well i did what zulfiqar said but problem is still there.
The bulb wont melt/blow suddenly, its light start getting low n low n in the end blub gone, any suggestion? Or should i post relay pix etc?

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[mwm749]

Hey guys m pissed with these h3, i tried denso, saka, n few others, but problem is still there, i have h3 in fog lamps, only right side tube gets melted or blown black, tube on left side is still oem one n working flawless, i replaced the right tube with different brands available in market but problem still there, right side tube only work not for more than 2 months. On the other hand left one has almost completed an year now. Plz guide what to check.

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You have answered your question your self. Nothing is wrong except for the poor quality of bulb...its the heat.
Lot of people are selling good quality bulbs on PW, try Philips.

[shazo]

You have answered your question your self. Nothing is wrong except for the poor quality of bulb...its the heat.
Lot of people are selling good quality bulbs on PW, try Philips.

Ill try the expensive one this time, and specially philips, but m hope less

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[shazo]

Well brought today oem dalla tubes off from new fog lamps.

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[shazo]

Have a look what happened here after a month....:banghead:

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[shazo]

@all this base on where ground wire sits was damn hot, u can say baked after 5min on. Is it normal? I marked by screwdriver

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[shazo]

This is the opposite side fog lamp, which never had any issue, have a look, this one is clean n shiney, n its not much hot on ground wire base.
N yes attaching pic of that side bulb.
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[capsat]

RED is ground ? am I from stone age when RED / BROWN was always "GARAM taar" "live" "positive". As in picture the wire RED is not correctly connected to the GROUND - clean the 'screw' connect u-lug to wire & connect back to the ground 'screw'

[shazo]

RED is ground ? am I from stone age when RED / BROWN was always "GARAM taar" "live" "positive". As in picture the wire RED is not correctly connected to the GROUND - clean the 'screw' connect u-lug to wire & connect back to the ground 'screw'

Well last time i replaced the wire, well packed everything back, replaced that red wire with the following in the below pic, n yes now the base isnt that hot like it was before.

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[Xulfiqar]

rusting at the point of contact means moisture is getting to it, firstly solder it correctly and use silicon grease to secure it. Your foglight is also meant for 55W bulbs and not 100W. Fog light reflectors are tiny to begin with, doubling the wattage will make a nice barbecue of the wiring too.

200W = 14.3 amps @ 14V

[shazo]

rusting at the point of contact means moisture is getting to it, firstly solder it correctly and use silicon grease to secure it. Your foglight is also meant for 55W bulbs and not 100W. Fog light reflectors are tiny to begin with, doubling the wattage will make a nice barbecue of the wiring too.

200W = 14.3 amps @ 14V

Done, applied silicon to prevent such thing, n yes i brought 100w not for extra beam etc, only thing in them was their coil inside, it was bit thick then others. Now that ground base isnt that hot like before (blown side) everything is back online, lets see how long these go :o

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[Xulfiqar]

did you apply RTV or proper silicon grease?

the 100W bulbs will put out double the heat of the 55W bulbs, very bad scenario unless you like fireworks. Foglights are for surrounding visibility only. These 100W bulbs are for safari or hunting flood lights.

[levin]

if total load is high, weakest point will go quicker, try separate wiring, independent for both, no joints. no links and yes those hard clamps your are already using. if single relay, try independent relays to divide load

[CarSaaz]

get a replacement and save youself the misery

[shazo]

Problem solved now its 2 weeks bulb is fine, just removed that rubber where 2 wires are crossing it. Temp is fine can put my hand on lens now
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