Honda CG 125 Euro 2 2012 related issues

[devilskreed]

For the oil enthusiasts the best treat for your motorcycle is..

Mobil Special 4t
Liqui Moly 4t(retains its viscosity even over 2000 Kms)

But the price is 700rs/liter but it is justified for a draining interval of 2k+ Kms ..Honda oil is patla oil,,and havoline 20w50 becomes pani after 800+ kms (check it out yourselves)

[abobobilly]

@devilskreed! Bike's Engine is small. Oil doesn't regulate too much like Car's engine. Thats the reason why its advised to change it ever 1k KM.

Let me link to something special.
Download This --- Its Honda CG125's Manual (includes the bike's history as well) ... Size is <10MB.

Here is what this manual states.

Since the engine relies so heavily on the quantity and quality of its oil, and since the oil in any motorcycle engine is worked far harder than in other vehicles, it is recommended that the engine oil is changed at more frequent intervals than those specified by the manufacturer.

This is particularly important if the machine is used at very high speeds for long periods of time, and even more important if the machine is used only at very slow speed or for very short journeys. The oil should be changed at approximate intervals of every month or every 1000 miles, depending on usage.

[midreestaj]

For the oil enthusiasts the best treat for your motorcycle is..

Mobil Special 4t
Liqui Moly 4t(retains its viscosity even over 2000 Kms)

But the price is 700rs/liter but it is justified for a draining interval of 2k+ Kms ..Honda oil is patla oil,,and havoline 20w50 becomes pani after 800+ kms (check it out yourselves)

Agreed, Mobil special is cost effective version in Mobil series actually... 4T naming makes it stand out as JASO MA + a lot other stuff certified as it is a Mobil product.

[midreestaj]

@devilskreed! Bike's Engine is small. Oil doesn't regulate too much like Car's engine. Thats the reason why its advised to change it ever 1k KM.

Let me link to something special.
Download This --- Its Honda CG125's Manual (includes the bike's history as well) ... Size is <10MB.

Here is what this manual states.

Agreed to this, short trips and less frequent riding and our bikes old but trusted push rod system makes us not to use brands like Mobil (over kill) and especially if you have to make short irregular trips its in fact near as mandatory to drain oil after 1000-1200 kms.
And whose gonna drain Mobil like that ??

[89khan]

@devilskreed! Bike's Engine is small. Oil doesn't regulate too much like Car's engine. Thats the reason why its advised to change it ever 1k KM.
Let me link to something special.
Download This --- Its Honda CG125's Manual (includes the bike's history as well) ... Size is <10MB.

Here is what this manual states.

A thousand Miles so 1000km*1.6 = 1600 kms !

[devilskreed]

LiquiMoly has no parallel..It is a renowned oil manufacturer and is german delight..There oils are specially formulated for max drainage intervals..There racing synth oils have a drainage interval of 5000 miles...
Its the oil quality you at not getting at..
The oils you use mostly are 25% virgin- 75% recycled mix which clears out its reliability and justifies a drainage interval of not more than 1000Kms..
But liquimoly is 100% virgin oil and is not a recycled ****.

They work better,,lubricate better in extreme conditions and most importantly maintain there viscosity for longer periods unlike conventional oils available in pakistan..Thus draining em at 1000-1200 Kms is prolly and overkill.

Also 1mile=1600+ Kms

[midreestaj]

@devilskreed ... Adding to discussion... All of these better oils have one thing in common which enable them to be used in excess of 2000 km. That is the presence of synthetic oil. Semi or fully synthetic either.

While Honda internationally claims that each of their motors both from motorcycles, cars and even racing cars are tested and guaranteed on Mineral oils. Synthetic oils are however the current era's advancement in oil technology. Whereas most of the motor making companies test their motors on original mineral oils.

There are also comments of avoiding fully synthetic oils in engines with wet clutch such as ours to avoid clutch slippage. It is also commented that true advantage of fully synthetic oil is only seen under extreme stress usage such as racing and red lining etc. Semi-snthetic is the way to go as per my opinion. However for each company and brand this will vary under the label of semi-synthetic and that is proportion of synthetic polymers in the oil which will actually change the outcome quality and longer lasting attribute.

[devilskreed]

synthetic oils are chemically synthesized unlike mineral oils that are extracted via crude oil,,they are more stable to chemicalshear unlike minerals whose carbonchains are not refined.. .Fully synthetic oils are the best lubricants for gasoline engines and for motorcycles(provided they dont have friction modifiers,aren't energy conserving and jasoma1-ma2 certified).The are very efficient in preventing sludge deposits which cause loss of compression in gasoline engines.The best you can get in your bike is a fully synthetic oil followed by semi synthetic and fine quality mineral oil.Also to add now manufactured vehicle come with factory filled synthetic oils as the machining technology is so advanced nowadays there is very minimal or no wear loss during running process(dont know about pakistan)..My quest for a fully synth oil is still in vain,,and the best oil available in pakistan atm is Mobil 4t or Liquimoly 4t both are highest quality mineral oils.Fuchs silkolene is also good in semi synth category..

Any Jaso-ma certified fully synth oil would never cause an itch to clutch plates

[Rizuu]

im using Honda's 125 engine oil in my new 125 euro 2 and i can easily cross 110km/h othr engine oil are useless..cuz when u buy new bike the engine in it is from HONDA brand so dont change it..

[devilskreed]

im using Honda's 125 engine oil in my new 125 euro 2 and i can easily cross 110km/h othr engine oil are useless..cuz when u buy new bike the engine in it is from HONDA brand so dont change it..

There us no alternative to ignorance..

[getscorpion]

[vickytulla]

did you actually considered changing the Honda Brand Engine :-# !!! from you Brand New Honda Euro II !!!

bro, I think you meant Honda Engine Oil and missed the word Oil.. well I heard in PW forums the Honda Oil is only filled in Honda Labeled Bottle, other wise its a "shell" company oil, but I there are way more competent oils available in market which just breath back you bikes energy...

I have around 5 year OLD daily runner bike, when I switched to Good oil I really felt new soul in it.. (I am a very careless bike owner).

im using Honda's 125 engine oil in my new 125 euro 2 and i can easily cross 110km/h othr engine oil are useless..cuz when u buy new bike the engine in it is from HONDA brand so dont change it..

[midreestaj]

@devilskreed, Good to hear that Mobil 4T is mineral I will check the specs on commercial website. Silkolene is very much praised one heard a lot about it but 4T Silkolene product not available here (only gasoline ones available) along with Mobil 4T special in my city. That is too bad we cant have quality oil around and available to us with ease.

Actually I voted for semi as best because of the reason fully synthetic unavailability in reliable brands (not Zic/zippex etc of course). It is true that today's engine making is so much precise and all those perfect broken in parts but still to be sure even Porshe lovers are using mineral oils for the very first 1.6-2k KMs just to be sure and old school like it never hurts the engine (ideally already broken in) and yet satisfaction is guaranteed to the power user who knows well and wants to groom the new engine on his own. However, Honda read somewhere on their website that all of their engines are tested and made solely on Mineral oils.

[dau.ud]

i was wondering how do they align this bike..lets say bike fell on its side while on single stand, will it require alignment and how do the people do that??

[m.baig.921]

Brothers, any input on this?

Oil:
Have you tried thinner oils in your CG such as 10W40. And any difference in feel if you use 20W50 instead of 20W40? BTW 20W40 is suggested by Honda in its manual.

Spark Plugs:
Honda suggests spark plug of heat rating (8) in NGK series, going long roads for longer periods on higher loads often reduces engine's full throughput due to spark plug getting hotter. That is also my personal experience. Honda's manual says: If you need full power long runs, use a colder plug. In NGK series, the colder plug has the heat rating of (9).

Standard CG 125 plug: DPR(8)EA-9
Cold plug: DPR(9)EA-9 (cold plug has double 9 in its part number)

Has any one found the colder plug? I am unable to find it in the market. The NGK G-Power Platinum plug (DPR8EGP-9) although uses a Platinum electrode which would give it a very long life but still its heat rating is (8) which is the standard one and not the colder one. The G-Power plug does loose power on long runs as per my experience. It may only prove longer lasting and durable plug as compared to standard NICKLE electrode plug.

can i tell me where i can get ngk DPR(9)EA-9 in karachi?

[Arslant]

Yar.mujay aesa kyon lag rha he k ho 125 deluxe wala mai tha.ap 14 august ki bat kar rhe ho na .raat ka time.red colour ka deluxe tha mera.ap bridge ki nechay the gol chakkar saddar wallay ke nechay.
Correct me if i am wrong?

[saboor73]

gone through whole thread and found the problem with your bike is honda has replaced cdi unit of with a small one in models after 2004 to in low rpm bike get full current but in high rpm the current is not full that why you faced less than idle performance the solution is to replace the cdi unit with lifan 125 cdi unit

[r1]

@vickytulla my bike's front sprocket making loud noise like grrr grr from inside the magnet chamber. Thinking to change the sprocket or is there any other issue?

[vickytulla]

sprocket has been consumed more then 60% of its life if you notice its teeth are tiltled to one side... I am afraid if you change only sprocket it will increase the noise more because new sprocket will not work with worn out chain.

@vickytulla my bike's front sprocket making loud noise like grrr grr from inside the magnet chamber. Thinking to change the sprocket or is there any other issue?

[r1]

sprocket has been consumed more then 60% of its life if you notice its teeth are tiltled to one side... I am afraid if you change only sprocket it will increase the noise more because new sprocket will not work with worn out chain.

Anything else which need to be replace except chain and sprockets?