Are these 16" Rims? If yes, what are the Tyre's specs? I heard if you move from genuine Rim & Tyre specs, you have to compromise over comfort and mileage. Is that so?
Yes, These are 16' OEMs from from Civic X. Tyres are yokos bluearth 215/55. In islamabad, I get 11.5-13 in city fuel avg. 13 on high-octane
And any words about comfort? Does it increase or decrease?
To be honest, I feel civic to be struggling on bumps and on khadday wali roads as compare to my vitz. Vitz had smoother suspension without any doubt. Car seems makhan on good roads especially after new tyres.
It had 15' OEM rims and eurostar installed before. After installing yokos, it surely increased my comfort and drive smoothness. But I miss my Vitz 1.3 in terms of suspension
bro ek tou vo Toyota hai, opper se Japanese... kya bat krte ho! My dad has Toyota Fielder, he sometimes does not even bother to apply brake on small speed breakers
Yehi cheez hai. The only PKDM I had before this civic was mehran, a decade ago. I had 2 vitz. 1st gen 1.0 and 2nd gen 1.3 and dono ki suspension was kamaal. No offense to civic, I love my ride lekin ghatya road se guzarte huay dil karta hai kisi premio,axio wale k sath exchange kar lon
If you drive your car hardly 10k kms a year then fuel average shouldnt be much of an issue, hardly 3/4k worth more petrol would be consumed in either of your rides
Asslam o AlikumNeed help
I bought honda civic 2013 it was a bit rough in condition as it was lady driven car and not properly maintained i overhauled its suspension the auto tensioner was also rattling i replaced it with a orignal one the major engine noise was gone i also changed the engine mounting i also checked up the cat converter and cleaned it as i thought that cat was missing but cat was intact but still there is a rattle noise which comes at acceleration but goes at high speed but whenever i accelerate it sudennly it again rattles which is very annyoning anyone of you all respected member can help me out with this issue
Also i need a little help, i also have a FB2, there is vibration from 24-30 and then it goes away and there i no vibration till 120-125 but when i let my foot off the gas pedal the car starts to vibrates mostly felt from right side, and works all ok till 100-105 with no feeling of vibration.i have got the inner joints replaced as before replacement the vibration was even bad. i need help if the CVs are the culprit or is it the torque mount. The drive pleasure is very pleasure less on motorways.
Need your input.
The rattling sound is mostly due to tensioner pulley which is a known fault in R18 engines. I also replaced mine with kabli, after 3 to 4 month again rattling sound but very less as compared to earlier..2nd have you done tappet adjustments? if not then do look at them also from a good mechanic not a road side..ALso do check for lose bolts, lose engine top cover, etc which also tend to make vibrating sound.
Cause of Vibration depends on other factors too..- Wheel balancing- Alignment- Engine mounts- Suspension fault- Torque Converter- CV joints
If the car itself vibrates then i faced the same issue, between 80-120 my car used to vibrate violently but beyond 120 it was fine. We had the axle joints changed as they were worn out and that solved the problem. If you can feel the vibration then it most likely has to do with some suspension part.
it vibrates at initially at 28-31 and then no vibration till 120-130 but when i let go off the pedal the car starts to vibrates from right side only.. I contact Honda they said it is known fault in these models and new shafts is 59K per side, maybe as per them the rob usually bends.... dont know... otherwise there is no suspension sound of any kind
Have anyone faced timing chain adjuster problems as their is a noise even when the sepertaine belt or fan belt is not placed
salam everyone, we had a 9th Gen Rebirth Civic since awhile, it's manual tranny.Is it possible to convert it to Prosmatec ?if yes kindly recommend some workshop in Rawalpindi to do whole process, error & flaw free, Tnx.
sell it and get a prosmatec.
not worth changing transmission and you will spend the same amount anyway. with great chance of issues.
you will need a new ECU as they are different for manual and auto...dont know weather manual transmission mount will fit in auto transmission....so ECU plus mount issue..and at time of selling u will hear car has been altered....if u want an auto then sell it and buy auto
I would recommend you to sell your car and buy the prosmatec.If it is possible to change the transmission, even the cost would be same as the difference between prosmatec and manual civic
