Ignition Coil Primary circuit

[Xplorer]

Try this link

[itsgumbys]

Try this link

Thanks a lot bro for this manual.

I can see its for SF310 and SF413 engines, my question is that...is this compatible for SF410 engine as well ? as my cultus code is SF410 ?

Thanks.

[smijaz]

Try this link

Thanks. Worked like a charm

[Xplorer]

@itsgumbys
There may be minor differences because of Pak Suzuki
but most of the details are same.

[itsgumbys]

@itsgumbys
There may be minor differences because of Pak Suzuki
but most of the details are same.

@Xplorer,
one thing i have noticed... there is only one output coming out from Distributor and going into the coil (primary input- ground) via a fuse.

There is no input going into the distributor for any sensor.

what i believe is that there is some mechanical switch ( may b some contact point sort of rotor) in the distributor which operates a magnetic switch (pulse generator). The only difference i see is this magnetic switch has been replaced with traditional "POINT" we used to have in old cars.

i have consulted few motor electricians locally including PAK SUZUKI, and they say there is no sensor in the distributor.

One more thing i would like to know.... from where the coil gets primary current when u crank the engine ? definitely there are 2 circuits which provide the current to coil.. one in the ON position and the other while cranking.

Thanks.

[archon2001]

This post was flagged by the community and is temporarily hidden.

[itsgumbys]

posting a link here it happens in my city , i hope this will help u.
read problem # 2.

https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/wheels-fan-clubs/34004-steermatic-fan-club-70

kind regards

what is the name of this sensor and where is it located ?

[jahan]

I am quite unsure that you are using an Efi Cultus which is using Distributor technology from my experience! mostly EFi vehicles have No Distributors of modern days! they are called DLI.. Distributor Less Ignition..

How much kilometers old is your Vehicle
Manually you cant check the flow of current for Secondary Coil because once if you touch it then you may jump about 3-4 Feets! it induces about 25,000 Volts which requires starting.....
From when you are facing problem! mention any temperature or conditions

[archon2001]

This post was flagged by the community and is temporarily hidden.

[itsgumbys]

I am quite unsure that you are using an Efi Cultus which is using Distributor technology from my experience! mostly EFi vehicles have No Distributors of modern days! they are called DLI.. Distributor Less Ignition..

How much kilometers old is your Vehicle
Manually you cant check the flow of current for Secondary Coil because once if you touch it then you may jump about 3-4 Feets! it induces about 25,000 Volts which requires starting.....
From when you are facing problem! mention any temperature or conditions

Well its Pak Suzuki who is renowned of using decades old engine with alterations.
Yes it has a distributor, which distributes the spark to plugs the very same way old engines does (with rotor etc). It just has magnetic switch instead of traditional old "Point".

Yes defiantly you cant check the secondary circuit output by hands... easy way to do this is to move the secondary cable close to some ground and see the spark when u crank the engine.

The car has done 67k on odometer. And i face this problem when the car is cold, like in the morning or after a gap of 3-5 hours.

Regards,

[Xulfiqar]

@Xplorer,
one thing i have noticed... there is only one output coming out from Distributor and going into the coil (primary input- ground) via a fuse.

There is no input going into the distributor for any sensor.

what i believe is that there is some mechanical switch ( may b some contact point sort of rotor) in the distributor which operates a magnetic switch (pulse generator). The only difference i see is this magnetic switch has been replaced with traditional "POINT" we used to have in old cars.

i have consulted few motor electricians locally including PAK SUZUKI, and they say there is no sensor in the distributor.

One more thing i would like to know.... from where the coil gets primary current when u crank the engine ? definitely there are 2 circuits which provide the current to coil.. one in the ON position and the other while cranking.

Thanks.

So you mean to say there is no ignitor in the ignition circuit and there is no wiring going from the distributor into the main EFI wiring harness, but somehow this engine runs. HOW does it adjust ignition timing?

If pak suzuki are telling you there is nothing in the distributor so what is that little thing inside the distributor,

The only similar thing Ive seen to what you are saying was an old Mazda 4 cyl 626 EFI setup, The engine had a crank and cam sensor and also had a distributor, inside the distributor was the tiny ignitor which was fed input from the ECM - and a couple of wires ran from it to the ignition coil placed outside the distributor.

The cranking circuit is also connected to the ECU - its branched off from the key that makes the ECM go into starting mode - higher fuel flow from injectors and advanced ignition timing forcing the engine to start easily.

[vagabondpiper]

yar get it checked on cptr from enercon g 10 markaz. khud hi pata chal jaye ga

[jahan]

Can anyone have! the link of Latest Suzuki Cultus EFi Specifications in which Ignition Details also mentioned....!

[Xplorer]

@jahan
Suzuki Cultus EFI Factory Service Manual (FSM)

[itsgumbys]

Explorer,

i am again facing the same issue, last time i got the distributor serviced and electrical connectors cleaned. After that the issue disappeared.

i have noticed this happens when i starts the car after 5,6 hours after it has cooled down after running it in very hot condition with AC on.

i am convinced it has some thing to do with the distributor or its wiring.

when i detach and and reconnect the distributor wiring connector and moves around the wire going into the distributor it starts !!!

i have also tried to bypass CNG advancer, still no luck.

i have came to following conclusion.

due to humidity in engine bay due to AC water drops from pipe (which is right below the distributor connector, (appx 1.5 feet down) the connector gets oxidized and breaks the wiring connection, and when i reattach the connector it seems to work.

i doubt if the crank sensor is faulty. cause if its faulty it should also misbehave when the car is running, once car has started it runs like a charm.

is there any way i can protect this connector from oxidation/ corrison?, but first i need to make sure if this is the real culprit.

experts opinion is required, as how can i diagnose or atleast narrow down the problem when it occurs, with limited tool sets, as it can happen any time any where.

looking forward to experts comments.

[wasim87]

Explorer,

i am again facing the same issue, last time i got the distributor serviced and electrical connectors cleaned. After that the issue disappeared.

i have noticed this happens when i starts the car after 5,6 hours after it has cooled down after running it in very hot condition with AC on.

i am convinced it has some thing to do with the distributor or its wiring.

when i detach and and reconnect the distributor wiring connector and moves around the wire going into the distributor it starts !!!

i have also tried to bypass CNG advancer, still no luck.

i have came to following conclusion.

due to humidity in engine bay due to AC water drops from pipe (which is right below the distributor connector, (appx 1.5 feet down) the connector gets oxidized and breaks the wiring connection, and when i reattach the connector it seems to work.

i doubt if the crank sensor is faulty. cause if its faulty it should also misbehave when the car is running, once car has started it runs like a charm.

is there any way i can protect this connector from oxidation/ corrison?, but first i need to make sure if this is the real culprit.

experts opinion is required, as how can i diagnose or atleast narrow down the problem when it occurs, with limited tool sets, as it can happen any time any where.

looking forward to experts comments.

I have the exact same issue??? did u solve the problem???

[TalhaFazal]

I know this is 2 year old thread...but was anyone facing this problem finally able to get a solution?? I am experiencing the same issue with my 2014 cultus @itsgumbys @wasim87

[zahidjdw]

I have cultus non-efi and currently I am facing the same problem. I need your guidance to check where the problem is?

I have checked that +12V is available on upper terminal of the ignition coil when switch is turned on.
Ignition spark traced back, no spark from plug wires, no spark at distributor main wire from the ignition coil, and finally no spark at ignition coil HT outlet point when the engine is cranked.
As I stated above, +12V is available at upper terminal of the ignition coil after the switch is turned on. At lower terminal of the ignition coil (Which I think should be the signal connection and should blink when connected to +12V via a test bulb, please correct me if I am wrong) bulb always remains lit when other wire of the bulb is connected to ground (I checked on both +ve and -ve).
I think that problem is either in the signalling system from the distributor or the wiring from this signalling system. How can I verify? I don't know how its signalling system works?
Please also guide me how to verify that ignition coil is in healthy condition.
Thank you very much in advance.

[bilal.ahmed98]

Assalam o alikum
I have cultus (EFI) model 2010.
Guys i have a starting problem in my cultus.some times i faced issue.when i trying to start the car ,the current from the coil not comming and car did not start.when i push the car mannualy by (Dhakka) and then i try to start the car the car is start normally and normal current gives from coil.sir please help me to solve the issue.mechanic said the problem is in card and advised to replace ignition ic. Help me plz.

[mrahiliftikhar]

I'm facing same issue 01 or 02 times in a month. Do you find logical reason behind this or find any solution