Khyber Alternator Analysis

[speedster_101]

shabaash

engine on dirt, and also spilling coolant/oil right on the ground - shabaash (give that man a medal)

Hahaha, his ustaad is a bigger item.
And this is the story of almost every workshop here.
They have never seen the school. Can not even read what is written on products/parts in English.

[speedster_101]

this is called 3 wire type, the stud and nut take the battery cable, the connector has switched power and lamp. a wire type only has a battery stud and a lamp wire, Some old mitsubishi 3 wire type take the "S" wire from a relay in the engine room or directly tapped to the B+ lug.

you will need to add a grounding strap the mounting lug on this alternator.

There is only one grounding cable in my car whose one side is connected to battery negative and the other side to gear box. I have bought this yellow wire, its quite thick. Is it okay if I connect the alternator's mounting lug with battery negative with this wire?

[speedster_101]

The vacuum solenoid in my Khyber was not working. When I used to switch on the headlights, the car used to shiver.
The mechanic told me that this vacuum solenoid is not working properly.
Took it to an electrician and he said its fine.
Turned out the connection to ground was lost somehow.
Now the car's RPM increases when I switch on lights (headlights and parking lights), it also increases when radiator fans kicks in.
But its also working with blower, is it okay?

[Mirza967]

The vacuum solenoid in my Khyber was not working. When I used to switch on the headlights, the car used to shiver.
The mechanic told me that this vacuum solenoid is not working properly.
Took it to an electrician and he said its fine.
Turned out the connection to ground was lost somehow.
Now the car's RPM increases when I switch on lights (headlights and parking lights), it also increases when radiator fans kicks in.
But its also working with blower, is it okay?

yes its perfectly fine

[Xulfiqar]

what is your idling speed? on suzuki khyber its 950 rpm in any condition, that means, adjust the load vacuum pod that it only raises it back to 950 rpm and adjust your A/C one that it keeps idling rpm on 950. Rpm increase should be only to "compensate" the load and raise to original value not overshoot it.

[hassantahir2]

In my car the idling speed is set 950 without load 950 with full electrical load and 1100 with AC ON.. Actually Suzuki 3s set it like this..

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[Xulfiqar]

In my car the idling speed is set 950 without load 950 with full electrical load and 1100 with AC ON.. Actually Suzuki 3s set it like this..

Sent from my D2502 using PW Forums mobile app

suzuki 3s are morons if they did this, when the car was new it was set as I mentioned. Its very easy to adjust it though.

[hassantahir2]

suzuki 3s are morons if they did this, when the car was new it was set as I mentioned. Its very easy to adjust it though.

Don't know previously they used to set the RPM'S correctly at 950. This time they just set the RPM with AC High don't know why they did this..

Sent from my D2502 using PW Forums mobile app

[DUDE007]

what is your idling speed? on suzuki khyber its 950 rpm in any condition, that means, adjust the load vacuum pod that it only raises it back to 950 rpm and adjust your A/C one that it keeps idling rpm on 950. Rpm increase should be only to "compensate" the load and raise to original value not overshoot it.

While we are discussing the load rpm, i would like to share an issue I've been facing. on electrical load the linkage on the alternator load diaphragm moves when throttle is applied and the idle rpm is raised so it idles faster than it was before. All this happened after i took the 2 mounting bolts of the diaphragm off to replace the idle cutoff solenoid. Did i bend the linkage?

Enviado desde mi GT-I9500 usando Tapatalk

[speedster_101]

what is your idling speed? on suzuki khyber its 950 rpm in any condition, that means, adjust the load vacuum pod that it only raises it back to 950 rpm and adjust your A/C one that it keeps idling rpm on 950. Rpm increase should be only to "compensate" the load and raise to original value not overshoot it.

I am not sure about 950 RPM because the car doesn't have RPM meter and the mechanic also does not have gun.
Yes, when there is some electrical load, the RPM drops and this increase in RPM should be just to take it back to normal RPM but this is not how its working right now.

The RPM shoots when the headlights, blower, defogger or radiator fan is ON.
Since the vacuum solenoid is working now, I will take the car to some mechanic who has gun and will ask him to set 950 RPM under load and no-load conditions. But only a few mechanics have that gun, rest all adjust RPM by guess.

[Xulfiqar]

While we are discussing the load rpm, i would like to share an issue I've been facing. on electrical load the linkage on the alternator load diaphragm moves when throttle is applied and the idle rpm is raised so it idles faster than it was before. All this happened after i took the 2 mounting bolts of the diaphragm off to replace the idle cutoff solenoid. Did i bend the linkage?

Enviado desde mi GT-I9500 usando Tapatalk

maybe, check it..

[Xulfiqar]

I am not sure about 950 RPM because the car doesn't have RPM meter and the mechanic also does not have gun.
Yes, when there is some electrical load, the RPM drops and this increase in RPM should be just to take it back to normal RPM but this is not how its working right now.

The RPM shoots when the headlights, blower, defogger or radiator fan is ON.
Since the vacuum solenoid is working now, I will take the car to some mechanic who has gun and will ask him to set 950 RPM under load and no-load conditions. But only a few mechanics have that gun, rest all adjust RPM by guess.

a multimeter that can read Hz can be your rpm meter for setting idle speed.

[speedster_101]

BTW I installed a wire from battery negative to alternator mounting lug but still no difference.
12.3 volts with A/C and headlights at idle.

[Tanvir734]

a multimeter that can read Hz can be your rpm meter for setting idle speed.

Dear Xulfiqar, can you please elaborate a little bit how to do that? I mean using Hz scale for measuring the car RPM?

[Xulfiqar]

BTW I installed a wire from battery negative to alternator mounting lug but still no difference.
12.3 volts with A/C and headlights at idle.

full field the alternator to see if it can raise it to beyond 15V - the full field hole is in the back case. - you only need a small screwdriver for this. If you get full uncontrolled voltage after this test, your voltage regulator in the alternator is bad. You can also do a voltage drop test on the main and sense wire of the alternator to see if its bad internally.

[Tanvir734]

Dear Xulfiqar, can you please elaborate a little bit how to do that? I mean using Hz scale for measuring the car RPM?

Dear @xulfiqar, can we hook the DMM (on Hz scale) directly with the 12V side of ignition coil? Black lead will go to body and red lead to the connector on the coil? Or is their some other place for this connection? Somewhere I read that there may be spikes as high as 200 (or 700 volts) on this terminal when contact breaks and makes. Sorry, I am talking about my car which is Swift Sedan 1990. I just don't want to fry my DMM. so waiting for your response. Now a days I am arguing with AC guys regarding engine RPM with AC on and off. Thanking you in anticipation

[ahmed2396]

A friend mounted toyo 7AFE alternator on his khyber which is i guess 80A, car worked nicely with it.

[Xulfiqar]

Dear @Xulfiqar, can we hook the DMM (on Hz scale) directly with the 12V side of ignition coil? Black lead will go to body and red lead to the connector on the coil? Or is their some other place for this connection? Somewhere I read that there may be spikes as high as 200 (or 700 volts) on this terminal when contact breaks and makes. Sorry, I am talking about my car which is Swift Sedan 1990. I just don't want to fry my DMM. so waiting for your response. Now a days I am arguing with AC guys regarding engine RPM with AC on and off. Thanking you in anticipation

if your car has an ignitor - the low side will be 12V only, connect your DMM to it and read the Hz pulses, the cam rotates at half engine speed - so keep that in account - and remember your engine is firing three pulses. so take the rpm reading - split into two to get half of it then each rotation has three pulses. Quite easy.

[Xulfiqar]

A friend mounted toyo 7AFE alternator on his khyber which is i guess 80A, car worked nicely with it.

why use inferior stuff - Bosch/Siemens/Delco alternators were/are available in scrap and sold for weight (lots of copper) - they are very simple to wire up and very powerful too. You can easily get an 80 amp unit for little money.

[ahmed2396]

why use inferior stuff - Bosch/Siemens/Delco alternators were/are available in scrap and sold for weight (lots of copper) - they are very simple to wire up and very powerful too. You can easily get an 80 amp unit for little money.

yeah but you know Pakistani scrap yards being ruled by japanese items. e.g you need a relay you wont find bosch siemens relay instead toyota denso.