That's better. Looks like they had some kind of dispute with courier company.
I am gonna order soon. And wish they delay it atleadt one month after seeing this gift.
This ZIC oil is available in 1L, 4L and 6L packing, whereas Khyber takes around 3.25L. So how you people manage? Buy 4L pack every time? Or once 4L, then 6L. So total 10L can be used for three oil changes.
I think, 1 liter packs are best bet.
I usually buy a 4 liter packing every time and i put that remaining oil in a 2 stroke bike.
will have to buy bike too...
Yup a 2-stroke. Because this will destroy (4-stroke) clutch plates if used in bike's gearbox/in engine.
Sir i want to change my khyber seats. Can any one guide me plz. Can cultus seats be used un khyber.
This post was flagged by the community and is temporarily hidden.
The gauge/ fuel sending unit of Asiain company installed earlier was removed as it was not showing correct reading. Re-installed the old stock one with some corrections. The tank was empty and the gauge was at E, fueled the car, it got filled in 31 L. The gauge is now at F. The initial and final point is correct so I hope the levels in between will also be shown correctly.
I am also doing overhauling of my Khyber engine and it is costing me around 23k to 25k with all Japanese Parts, Mechanic Charges and Lathe Work charges. is it not good?
aaj ki date tak 30k lag chukey hain.
Isn't 20W-50 better for Khyber? I was recommended this by oil change shop, considering Khyber is a very old car. I use ZIC but many people say all oils are same mostly.
If the engine is in good shape then 10W-40 is much better than 20W-50. That old car stories are only applicable if your car is reducing oil like mad.
What was done?The electrician fiddled with the coil for sending unit or what i am thinking about doing a diy on this. Whenever my fuel tank gets empty.
My car engine was overhauled in Sep 2016 and since then it is driven about 50K KMs. So which grade would be best suited?
Nothing much. There is a needle/contact which touches the resistance bar. At full tank it is positioned at least resistance point and at empty tank it is at max resistance. That needle/contact moves with the float bar. That needle was a bit loose, not touching the resistance bar sometimes. So basically he just tied a thread with it in such a way that it started touching the resistance bar.
I have changed the engine oil, poured in ZIC 10W-40 X7000 this time. Engine feels a bit smoother, however no change in piston pins noise. I am not going for repair as that rattling noise was vanished and the piston pin noise is bearable.