Knocking problm in corolla GLI 2010

[syncview]

so

bad sparkplugs
bad fuel
bad injectors
bad fuel pressure
bad timing
bad maf sensor
bad valve clearances

now all these above headers have multiple different subheads, best of luck

[pwuser165176643628]

[pwuser165176643628]

Ok I'll visit them whenever I get some free time, Thanks

[arslan.v8]

Most of these cars sold in Pakistan, even as newer as 2022 MY, have had their odometers tempered with during some point in their lives. It has gotten so common now, that people roll back odos like they change spark plugs. I can guarantee you, most of these cars are waaaay past that 200,000km mark. I'm specifically talking about cars from 2009 MY to 2018 MY.

[Xulfiqar]

why do I get the idea that you were trying to solve this in binary fashion? - meaning - ye data hai, iss ko dekh ke bataaen ke kya faalt hai?"

the cost of a good mechanic is worth the expense and time as you will root out the problem, Driving with a constant spark knock will damage your connecting rod bearings and piston ring stack - I can guarantee you that.

[pwuser165176643628]

I didn't quite understand by what u meant by data ye hai. The fact is I went to many people and all they said was tuning krwao and I obliged, whatever the mechanics tempered with became worse i.e the fuel pump. He cut it and changed it with a Chinese replacement only for it to fail after a month costing me 12k ko get a kabli one. So yeah I am very hesitant to take it to the so called Desi mechanics

[arslan.v8]

You don't specifically need to open the engine to have these issues figured out. You need someone with the correct diagnostic tools. A compression tester, a borescope, a voltmeter, fuel pressure kit, and a car scanner is what you need. Also someone who can do ultrasonic cleaning on your injectors.

For the head, you can have your technician open the valve cover to inspect.

[Xulfiqar]

You are visiting the wrong kind of servicemen who are posing as "mechanics" - just like you get mosami qasaai on eid ul azha.

Fuel pump test at ZRS and any shop worth their salt like Project11 in Lahore goes this way.

1 - connect a stable fuel pressure gauge with 100 psi readout inline with fuel rail
2 - connect amp clamp or inline ammeter to test pump amp draw.
3 - energize pump and check for amp draw and pump static pressure
4 - start engine - check for pressure and amp draw
5 - tape gauge to windshield and go WOT under load to check for pump supply performance. Indicating a choke in the filter or a bad pump. (there is one more test to determine if the pump has enough strength)

Testing pump with angootha pressure or missing any above steps will cause wasted money.

The above is a small example of how real shops work and how idiot posing as mechanics try to con money.

And why would you choose to use an unknown chinese origin fuel pump? Its a critical part for the car. There is a reason toyota sell it for 300USD. The reason isnt "loot" - 9 times out of 10 the factory pump is good unless the owner of the car never fills up the tank and overheats the pump.

If you are choosing to repair this yourself - by sharing data then you need to dig deep into analysis and diagnosis techniques and tooling - e.g. your AFR sensor maybe lying and as toyota do not provide a P2177 code provision on all ECUs, this becomes a blind issue where you have to replicate different scenarios, log the data and then understand if the system is lying to you or not. You may also need to constantly log mode6 data to see knock happening and being reported (do not try to simulate knock with hammer - toyotas use tuned knock sensors) - btw tuned knock sensors are highly sensitive to two things, moisture and wrong installing torque. Overtightening kills them instantly and 90% of the time they dont throw a code for it.

In this trade we call it drivability diagnosis - and in workshops the charge for the master drivability diagnosis guy/lady is the highest and duration is longest.

[pwuser165176643628]

Which workshop in Islamabad would you recommend?

[engnr.mubashir]

Can we make fuel pressure gauge with AC manifold gauge. If I hook fuel line quick connect to it will that read pressure accurately.

[dms664]

I would recommend you to visit Rahman Autos on IJP road. The owner of the workshop is a learned person and also here on pakwheels. Get in touch with him. His Id is @rajaatta.

[salman108]

I am afraid that is a gross oversimplification.

Engine oil is selected based on the temperature and OEM recommendations.
There is no ONE oil suggestion from any OEM.
All car manufacturers will give you a range from which you can choose depending on the environment and
driving conditions.

That out of the way, please understand that knocking is basically premature fuel ignition,
and by that reasoning, oil can do little to reduce knocking. Unless in some very extreme conditions.
Even the best engines knock; there is no perfect timing for all conditions and this is why
they have knock sensors to retard or advance timing point.

Hope that helps,
Regards.

[salman108]

It's as simple as using thicker oil reduced my knocking and switching, the key word is switching to thinner oil caused it to knock. If I were to be using thinner oil from day one I suppose your statement would be true. But my car was driven on 20w-50 prior so I suppose that took a toll on its health

I don't think that was the reason, there isn't a causal relationship that at least I can draw;
except maybe that your connecting rods were worn.

I have seen people switching from 20w50 to 5w30 or 10w30. And happy with their decision.Please specify which type of knock we are talking about here?

You see the only thing changed in that is the starting temperature, ( i.e the first value)
the second value remained the same.
So essentially they were using the same oil all through.

[engnr.mubashir]

No bro you are wring not every manufacturer do this.
Honda Civic X owners manual recommend 5w 30 for 1.8L variant and 0w 20 for turbo variant. Once I owned this car that’s what I read in the manual.
Toyota only gives you oil grade chart to choose from according to ambient temperature my cousin had vitz 3rd and it’s manual also shows chart for oil but didn’t recommended any specific grade.

[Hassan1991]

There's no difference in 30 and 50?

[salman108]

Dear you would use a 0W20 or 0W (whatever ) if the starting ambient temperature is 0 degrees.
Similarly a 5W oil means that ambient starting temperature is 5 degrees.

Summer starting temperatures are well above 20, so why pay for the expensive oil ?

You don't need that kind of an oil all year around , if you are not living really north of Pakistan.

If honda PAKISTAN has made such oil recommendations .... well what can i say.

[engnr.mubashir]

You got zero to no knowledge. I would suggest you learning first.

[ifadey]

Dear you would use a 0W20 or 0W (whatever ) if the starting ambient temperature is 0 degrees. Similarly a 5W oil means that ambient starting temperature is 5 degrees.

Where did you read that?

If honda PAKISTAN has made such oil recommendations .... well what can i say.

The recommendations followed by Honda Atlas are given in the owner's manual as well. The Honda's 1.5T engine require 0W-20 irrespective of temperature you are driving in, and they give no other choice to choose other grades.
Are you saying they are wrong?